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Old 10-23-2012, 10:11 AM   #70366
isaac004
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Rough gearbox

Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:16 AM   #70367
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.
This is what we were talking about:



The CO trace is nowhere near flat, varying between extremes of 2.6 (a little too lean) and 9.5% (quite a bit too rich as rich misfires usually begin in the 10-12.5% range). The CO should be in the range of 3-5%, i.e. if the CO varied between extremes of 3 and 5% throughout the trace, I would call that acceptable.
Quote:
It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.
"May not be perfect" is an understatement. Are you saying that a stock CV carbureted engine should have mixture strengths that vary this wildly?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 11:08 AM
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #70368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:40 AM   #70369
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the tim spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:08 AM   #70370
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Is that car GPS waterproof?
If by "waterproof" you mean surviving underwater, no -- but then again, the bike as a whole won't survive that either.

A light sprinkling? Sure, no problem.

A torrential downpour? Probably not, but I wouldn't know because I do not ride in the rain.

If one is overly concerned about rain though, weatherproofing is just a zip lock bag away.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:10 AM   #70371
isaac004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the tim spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..
Hmm, I'll change the oil tonight and install the magnetic drain plug I just bought a few weeks ago. I suppose I should fix the screw issue on the neutral switch too, since I don't know if the previous owner ever did that.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #70372
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
this bike could DEFINITELY benefit from one of my turnsignal relo parts..
Why would one need to relocate the turn signals on a stock bike?
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:25 AM   #70373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Why would one need to relocate the turn signals on a stock bike?
He meant turn signal/neutral light indicator. His bracket places them in a better location to be seen.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:24 PM   #70374
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.

In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, it at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek
By on top I meant freeway speed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek
I left the airbox half taped last night and rode it this morning half taped and the cool temps made it much worse.
Its really hard to put a bead on because this afternoon it was just as bad as this morning and nothing changed since yesterday when it was better...
still backfires, still bogs and makes funny noises.
Ok I am officially going crazy..........................
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:58 PM   #70375
K_N_Fodder
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WTB - OEM Turn Signal Cluster

Gents -

Drop me a PM if you happen to have a working OEM DR turn signal cluster from the current generation you want to make a few bucks on. Mine's croaked... I'd go aftermarket Highway Dirtbikes or something but I'm going to sell it so will stick with stock.

Located in Bend, Oregon. Getting a little snowy here already...


Thanks!
Justin
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #70376
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit.
Yes, I have shifting problems too, but not with the first two gears. My main problem is 2 --> 3, and 3 --> 4, where I have to make multiple attempts to engage the next gear, but I also have difficulties downshifting all gears at once (as when you come up on a stoplight). None of this happens when the engine is cold, and there hasn't been any significant change in the time I have had the bike (got it with 5,500 miles, it now has 12,500).

I don't have a solution for it, but oil seems to make a difference: I switched from Shell Rotella to Mobil 1 synthetic and things have improved slightly.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #70377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you saying that a stock CV carbureted engine should have mixture strengths that vary this wildly?
I think what Mambo Dave was saying is the bike runs much better and he's happy with the results
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:20 PM   #70378
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
Check your shift lever. Make certain it's fitting tight on the shaft, no slop. In my experience they loosen up over time/use and can effect shifting. Also make certain of the position of the shifter. Sometimes it can be sitting TOO CLOSE to the case, which interferes with shifting action. If it can touch the case, not good. Needs a gap.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:24 PM   #70379
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Seems like you need to adjust your clutch!!

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:26 PM   #70380
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I just installed one of his brackets that relocate the "Dash LIghts". His bracket is a good change.

Travel
Guy


Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
He meant turn signal/neutral light indicator. His bracket places them in a better location to be seen.
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