the DR650 thread

[Slideways#96]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

I'd buy a different bike, or I'd buy the Racetech rear shock assy and Racetech emulators and springs.

Thanks for the reply! I'll do some research on the racetech mods.

[acesandeights]

It can all be purchased through Racetech, http://www.racetech.com or through one of their distributors.

[Slideways#96]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

It can all be purchased through Racetech, http://www.racetech.com or through one of their distributors.

Great, thanks again!

[FlowBee]

My DR fully loaded pushes the limits of the OEM sidestand. I adjusted the rear preload but still feel it's too tall and ready to flop over on the right.

How much shorter is the DR650 OEM short sidestand compared to the OEM normal standstand? Would it work for heavily loaded DR650s ?

Thanks.
FB

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by DockingPilot

Wont matter, the engine is plenty big enough.
A 610. Carbed I rode
On a carbed 250, maybe you'd feel it , but not on the big bore DR and its not like your living up there, its up and over. Like I said youll never notice, The DR is the perfect weapon for the TAT. If your jetting is dialed in now, it will be fine for the trip Bri.

Yep if your jetting's currently dialed in, you'll be fine...you'll just lose some (or more ) power at the higher elevations.

[Fire Escape]

Originally Posted by FlowBee

My DR fully loaded pushes the limits of the OEM sidestand. I adjusted the rear preload but still feel it's too tall and ready to flop over on the right.

How much shorter is the DR650 OEM short sidestand compared to the OEM normal standstand? Would it work for heavily loaded DR650s ?

Thanks.
FB

I went through that as well. I already had the short stand but had lowered the rear and dropped the front clamps about an inch on the tubes. No amount of preload adjustment (at least up to the manual prescribed minimum) would help the bike stand up (at least not for long, I tightened up on the rear pre-load a couple of times, it would seem better for a short time but the oem spring kept on sagging). I finally gave in and bought springs appropriate to my weight (for me that meant two up with luggage....even though I ride solo). The aftermarket springs haven't shown the same tendency to 'creep', bike height has remained 'normal' and I can be less particular about finding the 'right' spot to try and leave it on the side stand. It probably rides better as well, being as I am now riding in the middle of the shock stroke instead of the bottom. I am not sure that I am qualified to judge that. It certainly isn't all new suspension front and rear but springs are relatively affordable and not too challenging to install.
I know that I have a 'normal' side stand somewhere, if I find it soon, I will get measurements for comparison.

Bruce

[shu]

Originally Posted by FlowBee

My DR fully loaded pushes the limits of the OEM sidestand. I adjusted the rear preload but still feel it's too tall and ready to flop over on the right.

How much shorter is the DR650 OEM short sidestand compared to the OEM normal standstand? Would it work for heavily loaded DR650s ?

Thanks.
FB

I had the same problem with not enough lean on my stand.
I'm not sure about the short sidestand- I think it's 1 1/2 inches shorter.

I took my stand to a local welder and had him cut about 1 inch out of my stock sidestand. He welded a pin in for strength and then welded the thing back together. This has worked great for the last 45,000 miles.

..............shu

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Slideways#96

Thanks for the reply! I'll do some research on the racetech mods.

I'd go Ricor front and rear.
Intiminators in the front and an IAS shock in the back.

At the moment the Intiminators are $180 (down from $300) and the shock is $550 (down from $890).

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by Slideways#96

For those of you who've tinkered with dr650 suspension mods I've got a question:

If you could have ANYTHING done on yours what would it be; forks from a donor bike, different swingarm and/or shock or would the ultimate fix be too cost prohibitive wherein a prudent person would save the cash and apply towards a different bike altogether?

Forks from a donor bike (re-sprung and valved for the weight) and a fully-adjustable shock with appropriate spring. Cogent is usually highly recommended for DR shocks. I'd like to have a remote preload adjuster too.

Note: I'm not riding a 350-400lb adv-thumper like a MX/XC racebike. I'm riding at an exploratory/fun pace when offroad. If I wanted to skim whoops and clear triples, I'd be on a 300lb-or-lighter bike.The DR's thin-wall frame isn't designed to take that kind of abuse with a load of luggage anyway. If I can get 3-4' of air and hit 6-12" ruts without bottoming/wallowing, I call it good enough.

[victor441]

Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=bedbb74d41 shows the dash on my DR which I am still working on with the Vapor installed . From the factory it comes with a little clamp/base that connects to your handlebars. Unless you purchase the high speed bar mount made from alum. I like it the light isnt over poweringat night and its always easy to see unless you are at a realy odd angle from it.

the PO of my bike made a clever Vapor mount from aluminum angle and rivets, works great and is light...

[PPCLI-Jim]

My only issue with the current design like the DR Vapor setup is the difficulty getting to the key, if you have a set of gloves on. I wish they could of raised it or had a side accessed key which is something i am trying to wrap my brain around and design for myself

[NordieBoy]

I got an Acewell but it has the same bolts out the back for mounting...

I just drilled a couple of holes in the existing speedo mount...

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsp...ing/index.html

Ran the pickup cable down inside the fork boot.

[kezzajohnson]

Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim

My only issue with the current design like the DR Vapor setup is the difficulty getting to the key, if you have a set of gloves on. I wish they could of raised it or had a side accessed key which is something i am trying to wrap my brain around and design for myself

Not if you make a bracket to keep it at a similar height to the stock speedo.

[Slideways#96]

Originally Posted by Kommando

Forks from a donor bike (re-sprung and valved for the weight) and a fully-adjustable shock with appropriate spring. Cogent is usually highly recommended for DR shocks. I'd like to have a remote preload adjuster too.

Note: I'm not riding a 350-400lb adv-thumper like a MX/XC racebike. I'm riding at an exploratory/fun pace when offroad. If I wanted to skim whoops and clear triples, I'd be on a 300lb-or-lighter bike.The DR's thin-wall frame isn't designed to take that kind of abuse with a load of luggage anyway. If I can get 3-4' of air and hit 6-12" ruts without bottoming/wallowing, I call it good enough.

Kommando,

I'm looking for a good set up for rocks. I've got a 300 xcw that will basically glide through rocky sections, ie streambeds and rock strewn roads. The Dr is understandably a different animal altogether however she is a handful in this stuff. Looking to smooth out the ride in these instances. She has eibach springs and is set up for my weight (petite 210 w/gear) but I'm thinking there has to be additional mods I can make to the big girl.

[acesandeights]

Originally Posted by Slideways#96

Kommando,

I'm looking for a good set up for rocks. I've got a 300 xcw that will basically glide through rocky sections, ie streambeds and rock strewn roads. The Dr is understandably a different animal altogether however she is a handful in this stuff. Looking to smooth out the ride in these instances. She has eibach springs and is set up for my weight (petite 210 w/gear) but I'm thinking there has to be additional mods I can make to the big girl.

The Racetech rear shock assembly is a OEM replacement with significant improvements. It's stronger, has a Gold Valve kit and rebound adjustment. It's also made, same as the OE, so it can be put in the higher or lower height positions. If you already have the correct spring for your weight, it's $399 (or less through other vendors).

The emulators for the front forks "emulate" a more expensive offroad cartridge fork and are roughly ~$169 if you already have the springs you need for your weight.