the DR650 thread

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

What'd you use to seal them up? Pinching tubes is a serious pain in the ass, so if there's something that can be done...

I used Cyborg's method, but there are long threads in SuperMotoJunkie about various methods for sealing spoked wheels.

[TRAVELGUY]

Have you been running street, dualsport or off road tires?

Thanks;

TravelGuy

Originally Posted by johnkol

I sealed my rims and they have been working fine for more than 6 months and 5000 miles. They lose air at the rate of about 3psi per week, but compared to the advantages, airing up once a week is a very small price to pay.

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

I used a 3M Marine sealer for the spoke nipples and enlarged the valve stem hole for a tubeless valve stem.

You don't need to enlarge the valve stem hole; NAPA P/N 90-426 fits in the existing hole.

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Lets say you get a flat on the road. You plug the hole ... but lets say the bead has broken (this typically won't happen on a real tubeless rim, but the stock DR rim is NOT a tubeless rim) So if the bead is broken ... how do you re-inflate on the side of the road with CO-2 or hand pump?

Not a concern -- at home I use a bicycle pump to seat the bead and inflate the tyre. On the road I carry an electric pump, so if I get a flat it's going to be easier than the procedure I use at home.

BTW, the whole point of going tubeless is that in case of a flat your tyres will deflate very slowly, therefore the prospect of a tubeless tyre rim getting off the safety bead is very remote.

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff

search around, there are threads all over re tuBliss

http://tubliss.com/

Tubliss is not recommended for street use -- apparently the temperatures developed on the road are too high for the internal bladder.

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

Have you been running street, dualsport or off road tires?

I have been running dualsport tyres, specifically, Shinkos 705.

I selected tyres that are designated as "tubeless", but I have read multiple comments that tube-type tyres hold air equally well.

[Albie]

Originally Posted by vfr870

They dont have a 17" size available for the rear.

Not that big a deal, I've never pinch flatted a rear tire, but I've done it a bunch on the front. I went Tubliss on my 450 EXC over 3 years ago and have never had a pinch flat since.

[Albie]

Originally Posted by johnkol

Tubliss is not recommended for street use -- apparently the temperatures developed on the road are too high for the internal bladder.

CYA stuff. I've run 75+ for long periods of time with no ill effects. Heck, I ran a front tire that was flat for 80 miles at 60 MPH and the bladder was fine.

[planemanx15]

Took my rear wheel off today and dismantled it. Im sending my hub to warp 9 to be fitted with a 17x4.25 rim.

I realized that inside the hub there are the 2 bearings, 1 on each side, and a hollow cylinder between them. That hollow cylinder is able to move freely around in the hub. Is this okay? It doesn't have too much play, and the bearings and dust covers are fine.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

Took my rear wheel off today and dismantled it. Im sending my hub to warp 9 to be fitted with a 17x4.25 rim.

I realized that inside the hub there are the 2 bearings, 1 on each side, and a hollow cylinder between them. That hollow cylinder is able to move freely around in the hub. Is this okay? It doesn't have too much play, and the bearings and dust covers are fine.

No. The disc side bearing should sit tight in the hub, up against the lip, and the other side should clamp the inner spacer/tube. It shouldn't be floating about.

[Slideways#96]

Originally Posted by Kommando

I don't ride that kind of terrain much, but we have ruts around here that seem to deflect lighter bikes with stiff suspension more than the relatively-soft and heavy DR that just kind of plows through crud. Mine feels just a bit stiff at low speeds with Eibachs for similar weight and with heavier fork/shock oil. I'm thinking that slightly-softer springs and lighter oil, with adjustable damping (where the DR lacks), would work better than heavy springs with no damping adjustment, unless you're moving pretty good. When I'm moving faster than the bottom of 2nd, mine feels pretty plush through most ruts and bumps.

Did you try the soft progressive stock springs in this stuff before swapping to the Eibachs? With different preload?They'd probably be a bit too soft with stock damping, but it might give you a better idea of which direction to go with spring-rates.

Haven't tried the soft progressive springs. I'm real curious now about swapping out forks with an rm though have research to do on changes to frame geometry and effects on rideability...

Thanks all for the many replies, what a great site!

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR

I spent an hour thinking about getting the vapor before i ordered the cable last week, so I'm already halfway there.... Lol. Honestly,i couldn't find a decent pic of a vapor installed to give me a good idea of what it would look like.

For about the same amount of money as a Vapor, you can install a GPS unit and have almost all the functionality of a Vapor, plus mapping functions.

A 5" car GPS unit fits perfectly in the space vacated by the stock speedo:

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by Slideways#96

I'm real curious now about swapping out forks with an rm though have research to do on changes to frame geometry and effects on rideability...

Extensive discussion about the various fork options on DRriders, with potential changes in geometry noted.

[ndthl]

Hi,

I am considering buying a 1997 Dr650 with 67,000km ( 41631.8698799 miles ) on the clock.

When do the bottom end bearings usually need replacing? I spoke to the mechanic this morning who said you'd want to look at the gearbox as well if you did the bottom end and this would end up being $AU1000+.

Do Dr650s have a reputation for bottom end issues at around 60-70,000km?

The bike leaked oil in the past so the rings were done. Apparently it's fine now and did a trip across Australia and back no dramas last year.

Wil

[sacbandit]

i have just over 50,ooo miles on my dr 650. still kicking,

[badweatherbiker]

Originally Posted by motolab

You could adjust the pilot screw via the following method:

Start the engine and warm it up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Report back with the setting.

In order to determine whether, as Rumlover suggested, the mixture was lean before the tape was applied and is only now rich, you could gradually remove more and more tape, testing after each change. If he is right, there will be a sweet spot where it runs better than it does now as well as how it ran un-taped. If the problem gradually gets better as you untape, but never gets better at any stage than before it was taped or now, then you started out too rich and taping only made it richer.

Regards,

Derek

Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
gonna remove it all tomorrow and go from there.
seen today I have a bent lip on my rim.
having not ridden many DR's I dont have much to compare it to but in 5th when I accelerate there is alot of vibrarion/ noise coming through my footpegs, doesn't feel smooth. Is this a normal thing?