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Old 10-26-2012, 02:15 PM   #70486
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Words of a Shaman to be sure. Truths spoken....
I'm going to have to have to extend
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
A Japanese motorcycle coil failure is very rare for anything made in the last 25 years. Out of the last hundred or so coils local folks have brought to me to check out thinking they had failed only one was bad.
to modern Japanese ignition system components in general. There is rarely an issue, and when there is, the engine generally quits running completely, i.e. if the engine still runs, the issue is not likely to be ignition related.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:17 PM   #70487
greystoke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Geez: I went to an exchange chart to see what a US dollar is worth compared to an Australian dollar fully expecting a 2 to 1 ratio, but they are basically the same value. That's whack! I think I should start importing boatloads of used DR's to your locale. Does AUS have hideous import duties? I think that would drive the price up and keep it there for your used bikes as well.
Yeah but you'll lose you profit after shipping and conversion to right hand drive
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #70488
dman
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A wise old guy once told me that "carburator" was French for "Don't f*** with it". But that was back when most people left the carbs alone, and ignitions had points, vacuum advance and retard, cheap plug wire insulation, weak coils etc. Now ignitions are (and should be) left alone, but the drivability of '90's era carb-holdovers leads us to tinker with jets and needles and often make things worse. I have two carbed bikes (one is the DR), neither with stock jetting, and frankly neither runs as well in all conditions of rpm, temperature, throttle and altitude as my bone-stock injected VStrom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I'm going to have to have to extendto modern Japanese ignition system components in general. There is rarely an issue, and when there is, the engine generally quits running completely, i.e. if the engine still runs, the issue is not likely to be ignition related.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:26 PM   #70489
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I got my '08 with 800 miles on it in '09- basically a brand new bike.

It now has 52,500 miles, and is still going strong. Very reliable bike.

I'd jump on that '08 if I were you. 8,500 miles is a low mileage DR, especially a street ridden bike.

.............shu
Sheesh, I thought I rode the wheels off of mine this summer to get 12,800 miles. (41,242 total)

Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
How far does that shaft that go into the master cylinder? I got it to lower a lil but not enough. I don't want to loosen it where it comes out completely.
I had to shorten the shaft 1/4" to 5/16" by grinding off the bottom threads. Start here on #23 and read down.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=634746&page=2

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Shaft stays the same in the master cylinder. Look at the bottom of the shaft below the lock nut and you will see the shaft turning in a clevis that raises and lower the brake peddle.

TravelGuy.
Loosen the nut on top of the clevis, use the nut on the shaft (right at the boot), to turn the shaft, the nut under the clevis is captive, the shaft will travel down (shorter), allowing the rear of the pedal to rise (clear as a bell to me ). And be careful not to tear the rubber boot while turning the bolt.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:03 AM   #70490
Rusty Rocket
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More than 12 hours since a reply. Have we run out of things to talk about?


I guess I'll have to go riding.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:11 AM   #70491
sandwash
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Anybody have a pic of the new style type rear axle nut/name? Non cotter pin.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:18 AM   #70492
greer
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# 15 here?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/1

Sarah
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:26 AM   #70493
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
OK, a few days ago in this thread I posted about doing research on replacement batteries for the DR650.

In my last post, I think I mentioned that I had decided, for my next battery, to use a Yuasa YTZ14S which is the same size as the OEM battery, except 3/16" taller (someone said they still fit and after opening up my bike, I bet they do) ... but the YTZ14S stores almost 50% more energy than the stock battery (11.5 Ah versus 8 Ah).

Anyway, I had saved an ebay bookmark where they were selling these batteries, and while cleaning up my bookmarks I looked at the ebay ad again, and THEY'RE NOW SELLING THESE BATTERIES FOR $8.79 WITH FREE SHIPPING!

SCORE!

If you're in the market for a new battery for your DR, take a look! For less than $9 delivered, how can you go wrong?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YTZ14S-B...-/190737356832

Edited to Add: On second look, they appear to be knockoffs, not Yuasa batteries, but still the ebay merchant has almost 82000 points with 99.6% positive feedback...I have no financial relationship with them, and have my fingers crossed...


Ordered one of these, was delivered a couple of days ago. Delivered it had 12.5v, tested @ 145 CCA. Charged it for a day, let it rest overnight, tested at 13.1v, 205 CCA. A great buy for less than $9 delivered. Thanks for the link.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:31 AM   #70494
sandwash
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Looking to upgrade to the new style I'll just take on and try to match it up at the hardware store. It's not a nut a castle nut but a ? nut.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:14 AM   #70495
JagLite
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Thumb Axle nut

The new axle nut is a lock nut.
NOT a plastic insert one-time use lock nut.
A steel lock nut is designed (threaded?) in a way that keeps it from rotating.
I got mine from ProCycle.

Is the Suzuki lock nut different from the same size regular non-plastic metric lock nut?

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Old 10-27-2012, 09:24 AM   #70496
badweatherbiker
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Got the carb off the bike

first pulled the plugs and there were 2 CR9E's in there and one was pretty rusty and the insulator and tip was clean had a bit of brownish tan tint to it, the other was corroded white on the outside and the insulator and tip was slightly whitish looking.
pulled the choke cable off and the rubber boot was torn and it had a little yellowish tanish residue on it and inside the carb.
on to the carb, it was clean as a whistle everywhere except the top where the diaphram sits, it had some residue which looked like dust in it.
the needle has a half moon washer on it and the clip is in the 4th position from the top, a plastic washer is on top of the spring.
the main jet is a 145 and is new looking still (remember the kit has only been on there since July) and the thumb air/fuel screw is clean and the grommet looks good.
there is another little jet under the float just behind and left of the main, is that the pilot?
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:38 AM   #70497
JagLite
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Thumb Super brakes - Sumo brakes!

I just read the article in the November (2012) Motorcycle Consumer News about installing a radial pump master cylinder (front brake) on their DR650 as a test.

Bottom line?

Quote:
"We were blown away by the difference...

Few modifications - at any price - can add so much to both your over-the-road performance and riding enjoyment.

Highly recommended"


While this mod will really benefit you Sumo riders, it sounds like the improvement in feel and modulation will help us dirt oriented riders too.

Read the article! If you aren't familiar with the magazine, check it out, it is very good and appeals to all riders.

This will be an excellent addition to the ProCycle and Kientech product lines.

It looks like it will require some different hand guards or modifications to them to fit from the pictures.

Are you listening Jeff?

A radial pump master cylinder, a steel or Kevlar braid brake line and a 320mm rotor will be truly amazing!
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:42 AM   #70498
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
first pulled the plugs and there were 2 CR9E's in there and one was pretty rusty and the insulator and tip was clean had a bit of brownish tan tint to it, the other was corroded white on the outside and the insulator and tip was slightly whitish looking.
pulled the choke cable off and the rubber boot was torn and it had a little yellowish tanish residue on it and inside the carb.
on to the carb, it was clean as a whistle everywhere except the top where the diaphram sits, it had some residue which looked like dust in it.
the needle has a half moon washer on it and the clip is in the 4th position from the top, a plastic washer is on top of the spring.
the main jet is a 145 and is new looking still (remember the kit has only been on there since July) and the thumb air/fuel screw is clean and the grommet looks good.
there is another little jet under the float just behind and left of the main, is that the pilot?
ok, took the other jet out and its hard to see but looks like maybe a 45? has some markings before it too. id didnt have any o-ring of any sort on it but looking down the passage where I took it out from there is what looks like an o-ring or some kind od black seat or bumper in there, is that normal??????
I now have the float and everything off can i hit everything and all the passages with some air pressure?
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badweatherbiker screwed with this post 10-27-2012 at 09:47 AM Reason: more to say.....
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:26 AM   #70499
harryhammer
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????????

Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
Ordered one of these, was delivered a couple of days ago. Delivered it had 12.5v, tested @ 145 CCA. Charged it for a day, let it rest overnight, tested at 13.1v, 205 CCA. A great buy for less than $9 delivered. Thanks for the link.
how did it fit?
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:14 PM   #70500
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
My bike is stock height with the procycle stiffer springs front and back. One of my riding buddies bought their shortened stand and in a moment of weakness sold it to me (he was in-between DR's at the time). So i have the procycle 1.5" shortened stand and it's perfect for the stock height. I have fully loaded dirtbagz and a top box...all in all, at least 50lbs of junk in addition to my svelte 230lb ass and my stand is rock solid. Only time i worry is if i'm in soft wet dirt...then it'll sink in. I just grab a rock or branch to put under it if it looks like it's going to sink in.

When my buddy bought a new 2012 DR and lowered it using the suzuki stock lowering options, his stand was way too tall and he cut off the foot about 3" up. Once he was sure that the height was ok, i took the stock stand and cut out about 2" from the tube and welded the foot back on. I used the cut out section inside the tubes to give it some additional strength. I cut it lengthwise so that i could roll the tube small enough in diameter so that i could hammer it inside the stand. Once welded, it's probably stronger at that joint than the rest of the tube. So far, he's used it for 1000's of miles and hasn't had any trouble with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordieboy
I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.
Thanks everyone! Gotta love this place...

Update: I bought a Suzuki DR650 short stand and installed it this AM. Here are the dimensions: Suzuki stock tall sidestand (black) distance from center of bolt hole to heel of foot = 12.5". Short Suzuki sidestand (silver) distance from center of bold hole to heel of foot = 11.0". So, yes, 1.5" lower to match the 1.5" lowered suspension option.

It definitely solves the upright problem. Very solid lean to the left - no risk of the wind blowing it over. If anything maybe a little bit too much lean, so I think I'm going to have a buddy tack weld a 2" x 3" x 1/8" thick mild steel foot on the bottom and shoot it in flat black paint. Then is should be just about perfect.
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