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Old 10-27-2012, 08:31 AM   #70486
sandwash
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Flagstaff Az
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Looking to upgrade to the new style I'll just take on and try to match it up at the hardware store. It's not a nut a castle nut but a ? nut.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:14 AM   #70487
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,006
Thumb Axle nut

The new axle nut is a lock nut.
NOT a plastic insert one-time use lock nut.
A steel lock nut is designed (threaded?) in a way that keeps it from rotating.
I got mine from ProCycle.

Is the Suzuki lock nut different from the same size regular non-plastic metric lock nut?

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Old 10-27-2012, 09:24 AM   #70488
badweatherbiker
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 698
Got the carb off the bike

first pulled the plugs and there were 2 CR9E's in there and one was pretty rusty and the insulator and tip was clean had a bit of brownish tan tint to it, the other was corroded white on the outside and the insulator and tip was slightly whitish looking.
pulled the choke cable off and the rubber boot was torn and it had a little yellowish tanish residue on it and inside the carb.
on to the carb, it was clean as a whistle everywhere except the top where the diaphram sits, it had some residue which looked like dust in it.
the needle has a half moon washer on it and the clip is in the 4th position from the top, a plastic washer is on top of the spring.
the main jet is a 145 and is new looking still (remember the kit has only been on there since July) and the thumb air/fuel screw is clean and the grommet looks good.
there is another little jet under the float just behind and left of the main, is that the pilot?
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:38 AM   #70489
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Thumb Super brakes - Sumo brakes!

I just read the article in the November (2012) Motorcycle Consumer News about installing a radial pump master cylinder (front brake) on their DR650 as a test.

Bottom line?

Quote:
"We were blown away by the difference...

Few modifications - at any price - can add so much to both your over-the-road performance and riding enjoyment.

Highly recommended"


While this mod will really benefit you Sumo riders, it sounds like the improvement in feel and modulation will help us dirt oriented riders too.

Read the article! If you aren't familiar with the magazine, check it out, it is very good and appeals to all riders.

This will be an excellent addition to the ProCycle and Kientech product lines.

It looks like it will require some different hand guards or modifications to them to fit from the pictures.

Are you listening Jeff?

A radial pump master cylinder, a steel or Kevlar braid brake line and a 320mm rotor will be truly amazing!
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:42 AM   #70490
badweatherbiker
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 698
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
first pulled the plugs and there were 2 CR9E's in there and one was pretty rusty and the insulator and tip was clean had a bit of brownish tan tint to it, the other was corroded white on the outside and the insulator and tip was slightly whitish looking.
pulled the choke cable off and the rubber boot was torn and it had a little yellowish tanish residue on it and inside the carb.
on to the carb, it was clean as a whistle everywhere except the top where the diaphram sits, it had some residue which looked like dust in it.
the needle has a half moon washer on it and the clip is in the 4th position from the top, a plastic washer is on top of the spring.
the main jet is a 145 and is new looking still (remember the kit has only been on there since July) and the thumb air/fuel screw is clean and the grommet looks good.
there is another little jet under the float just behind and left of the main, is that the pilot?
ok, took the other jet out and its hard to see but looks like maybe a 45? has some markings before it too. id didnt have any o-ring of any sort on it but looking down the passage where I took it out from there is what looks like an o-ring or some kind od black seat or bumper in there, is that normal??????
I now have the float and everything off can i hit everything and all the passages with some air pressure?
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1996 Kawasaki KZ1000P (currently being rebuilt)
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Earn extra income, become a distributor or just purchase:
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badweatherbiker screwed with this post 10-27-2012 at 09:47 AM Reason: more to say.....
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:26 AM   #70491
harryhammer
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: concord,nc.
Oddometer: 163
????????

Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
Ordered one of these, was delivered a couple of days ago. Delivered it had 12.5v, tested @ 145 CCA. Charged it for a day, let it rest overnight, tested at 13.1v, 205 CCA. A great buy for less than $9 delivered. Thanks for the link.
how did it fit?
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:14 PM   #70492
FlowBee
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Stasis.
Oddometer: 5,754
Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
My bike is stock height with the procycle stiffer springs front and back. One of my riding buddies bought their shortened stand and in a moment of weakness sold it to me (he was in-between DR's at the time). So i have the procycle 1.5" shortened stand and it's perfect for the stock height. I have fully loaded dirtbagz and a top box...all in all, at least 50lbs of junk in addition to my svelte 230lb ass and my stand is rock solid. Only time i worry is if i'm in soft wet dirt...then it'll sink in. I just grab a rock or branch to put under it if it looks like it's going to sink in.

When my buddy bought a new 2012 DR and lowered it using the suzuki stock lowering options, his stand was way too tall and he cut off the foot about 3" up. Once he was sure that the height was ok, i took the stock stand and cut out about 2" from the tube and welded the foot back on. I used the cut out section inside the tubes to give it some additional strength. I cut it lengthwise so that i could roll the tube small enough in diameter so that i could hammer it inside the stand. Once welded, it's probably stronger at that joint than the rest of the tube. So far, he's used it for 1000's of miles and hasn't had any trouble with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordieboy
I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.
Thanks everyone! Gotta love this place...

Update: I bought a Suzuki DR650 short stand and installed it this AM. Here are the dimensions: Suzuki stock tall sidestand (black) distance from center of bolt hole to heel of foot = 12.5". Short Suzuki sidestand (silver) distance from center of bold hole to heel of foot = 11.0". So, yes, 1.5" lower to match the 1.5" lowered suspension option.

It definitely solves the upright problem. Very solid lean to the left - no risk of the wind blowing it over. If anything maybe a little bit too much lean, so I think I'm going to have a buddy tack weld a 2" x 3" x 1/8" thick mild steel foot on the bottom and shoot it in flat black paint. Then is should be just about perfect.
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:09 PM   #70493
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Make sure he checks for swingarm clearance, with the stand up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:59 PM   #70494
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,953
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Looking to upgrade to the new style I'll just take on and try to match it up at the hardware store. It's not a nut a castle nut but a ? nut.
The PO of my DR just put a re-useable spring-clip through the castle-nut. It works great.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:08 PM   #70495
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Are you listening Jeff?
Yep. Read the article a few days ago. Still chewing on what all would be required to make up a complete kit.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:11 PM   #70496
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
ok, took the other jet out and its hard to see but looks like maybe a 45? has some markings before it too. id didnt have any o-ring of any sort on it but looking down the passage where I took it out from there is what looks like an o-ring or some kind od black seat or bumper in there, is that normal??????
I now have the float and everything off can i hit everything and all the passages with some air pressure?
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.

Check all the seating/metering surfaces for dirt and wear.

Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.

Soak the carb, blow out passages, carefully re-assemble, check the float height, be careful of sealing the boots well, and tune the idle-mix.

The main jet is a 145 you said. I'm guessing that's Mikuni, for a stock exhaust near sea-level.

PC needle on the 4th clip works for me with a plastic D-spacer.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:36 PM   #70497
FlowBee
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Location: Stasis.
Oddometer: 5,754
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Make sure he checks for swingarm clearance, with the stand up.
Gotcha. Yup, the pad needs to align with the heel of the existing pad. Any extensions are to the side or front.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:51 PM   #70498
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,006
Thumb Radial round about

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Yep. Read the article a few days ago. Still chewing on what all would be required to make up a complete kit.

Attaboy!

Hopefully with the more affordable Nissan unit? Brembo is better but at twice the price?
I think you will HAVE to buy both to experiment with and check fit, hose connections, etc.
Product development research is tough work but it has to be done...

Best article on why radials work so well that I have read.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:54 PM   #70499
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.
The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot.

Quote:
Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.
Don't forget #15 and 16:

http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315
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2004 DR650: 61,382 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:32 PM   #70500
Klay
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: right here on my thermarest
Oddometer: 99,250
What weight fork oil is appropriate for the stock fork set-up? My dealer told me 5 weight, but the manual says 10 weight.
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