the DR650 thread

[GaThumper]

If you're considering the Procycle seat, I just posted one in the Flea Market. Thought I'd give a heads up here to the DR650 thread.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post19878796

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by johnkol

You don't need to enlarge the valve stem hole; NAPA P/N 90-426 fits in the existing hole.

Not a concern -- at home I use a bicycle pump to seat the bead and inflate the tyre. On the road I carry an electric pump, so if I get a flat it's going to be easier than the procedure I use at home.

BTW, the whole point of going tubeless is that in case of a flat your tyres will deflate very slowly, therefore the prospect of a tubeless tyre rim getting off the safety bead is very remote.

I'm assuming you're using your stock 17" DID rim that comes with the DR650? Have you had any experience running a TKC80 or T63 knobby?
How about 50/50 tires like Mefo's or other Euro tires? Are you running a tubeliss rim up front as well or only on the rear? (Woody recommends doing rear only)

I must have really screwed up my sealing job. I'll have to read that thread and see if I can salvage what I did. Thanks for the feedback and links.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

No. The disc side bearing should sit tight in the hub, up against the lip, and the other side should clamp the inner spacer/tube. It shouldn't be floating about.

with the wheel off the bike (and thus an untorqued bearing/spacer/rim assy)
i've noticed i can put my finger into the inner spacer and move it around some.
i can push one side up or down a small bit.

if it can be pushed back and forth from side of the hub to side of the hub then yes something is not correct, but mine is not locked in there solidly when the wheel is off.

assuming there is no damage to the hub (so the bearing sit properly per spec) and there in no dirt and such in the hub cavity (so the bearing would not fully seat properly), i'd say when the full assy is properly torqued everything comes together just as it should. the axel will center spacer upon assy, so it has to sit correct.

this spacer of course supports the bearings so they have no lateral forces in play, the inner bearing lips are supported from one end to the other. without this spacer, the bearing would fail inwards.

i use 73 ftlbs of torque on the rear axel nut. those with older DRs can upgrade to a new cotter-pinless fuji-nut from Procycle so you torque it and go.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by FlowBee

Anybody here use a short Suzuki sidestand with a standard height suspension bike? Is the shorter sidestand 1.5" shorter like the shortened suspension mod it is meant for? Is it too short? I wasn't able to answer my question by searching this thread.

My loaded up DR is precariously close to vertical, even with the rear preload cranked up a bit. I may just take the sidestand down to the local muffler shop to see if they can take an inch offf the bottom and re-weld a new pad on the bottom. I just thought I'd ask here first in case I just want to throw my credit card at the problem instead...

Thanks in advance.

I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.

[Magnum Noel]

Originally Posted by johnkol

For about the same amount of money as a Vapor, you can install a GPS unit and have almost all the functionality of a Vapor, plus mapping functions.

A 5" car GPS unit fits perfectly in the space vacated by the stock speedo:

Is that car GPS waterproof?

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

I'm assuming you're using your stock 17" DID rim that comes with the DR650? Have you had any experience running a TKC80 or T63 knobby?
How about 50/50 tires like Mefo's or other Euro tires? Are you running a tubeliss rim up front as well or only on the rear? (Woody recommends doing rear only)

Yes, stock rims both front and rear. I had both rims checked and spokes tightened professionally before I embarked on my wheel-sealing mission.

Tubeless conversion on the front too. Yes, I've read the objections about going tubeless on a wheel without a safety bead, but I do not share these concerns: on one hand, one of the main advantages of tubeless tyres is the fact that they deflate very slowly, so the chance of the tyre suddenly losing all pressure, collapsing on the rim, and you losing control of the bike, is highly improbable; and on the other hand, how is a tube going to prevent the above scenario? In fact, this is far more likely to happen to a tubed tyre.

I did the conversion this last spring, so I've only had the chance to use the Shinko 705. But they're almost worn now, so I will be trying the Shinko 700 soon. After that I'll try the Shinko 244.

[Born-to-ride]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.

Did you shorten it yourself?? Thinking of cutting the foot of mine, shortening it by 20mm and reweld the foot back on. Or did you buy one?

[Born-to-ride]

I fitted a FCR to the DR and had a few issues with the throttle cable. Sorted that out and the bike runs like a dream. Fuel economy around 17km/l consistantly regardless of how much throttle I use or terrain I conquer. Only issue is that the bike is still popping when I close the throttle and the beast does not idle when cold. Any advise out there, or should I just ride and enjoy?!?!

[phreakingeek]

My bike is stock height with the procycle stiffer springs front and back. One of my riding buddies bought their shortened stand and in a moment of weakness sold it to me (he was in-between DR's at the time). So i have the procycle 1.5" shortened stand and it's perfect for the stock height. I have fully loaded dirtbagz and a top box...all in all, at least 50lbs of junk in addition to my svelte 230lb ass and my stand is rock solid. Only time i worry is if i'm in soft wet dirt...then it'll sink in. I just grab a rock or branch to put under it if it looks like it's going to sink in.

When my buddy bought a new 2012 DR and lowered it using the suzuki stock lowering options, his stand was way too tall and he cut off the foot about 3" up. Once he was sure that the height was ok, i took the stock stand and cut out about 2" from the tube and welded the foot back on. I used the cut out section inside the tubes to give it some additional strength. I cut it lengthwise so that i could roll the tube small enough in diameter so that i could hammer it inside the stand. Once welded, it's probably stronger at that joint than the rest of the tube. So far, he's used it for 1000's of miles and hasn't had any trouble with it.

Originally Posted by FlowBee

My DR fully loaded pushes the limits of the OEM sidestand. I adjusted the rear preload but still feel it's too tall and ready to flop over on the right.

How much shorter is the DR650 OEM short sidestand compared to the OEM normal standstand? Would it work for heavily loaded DR650s ?

Thanks.
FB

[Zapp22]

this bike could DEFINITELY benefit from one of my turnsignal relo parts..

Originally Posted by johnkol

For about the same amount of money as a Vapor, you can install a GPS unit and have almost all the functionality of a Vapor, plus mapping functions.

A 5" car GPS unit fits perfectly in the space vacated by the stock speedo:

[planemanx15]

Originally Posted by eakins

with the wheel off the bike (and thus an untorqued bearing/spacer/rim assy)
i've noticed i can put my finger into the inner spacer and move it around some.
i can push one side up or down a small bit.

if it can be pushed back and forth from side of the hub to side of the hub then yes something is not correct, but mine is not locked in there solidly when the wheel is off.

assuming there is no damage to the hub (so the bearing sit properly per spec) and there in no dirt and such in the hub cavity (so the bearing would not fully seat properly), i'd say when the full assy is properly torqued everything comes together just as it should. the axel will center spacer upon assy, so it has to sit correct.

this spacer of course supports the bearings so they have no lateral forces in play, the inner bearing lips are supported from one end to the other. without this spacer, the bearing would fail inwards.

i use 73 ftlbs of torque on the rear axel nut. those with older DRs can upgrade to a new cotter-pinless fuji-nut from Procycle so you torque it and go.

This is my exact situation... So no worries then. No dr action for me for a month... My wheel is on its way to warp 9

[victor441]

Originally Posted by Magnum Noel

Is that car GPS waterproof?

The cheaper Garmin Nuvi's are not waterproof but the 500/550 models are and they sell for about $265- and also have a built in battery good for several hours so they can be used for bicycling, walking, geocaching, etc...

[badweatherbiker]

Originally Posted by badweatherbiker

Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
gonna remove it all tomorrow and go from there.
seen today I have a bent lip on my rim.
having not ridden many DR's I dont have much to compare it to but in 5th when I accelerate there is alot of vibrarion/ noise coming through my footpegs, doesn't feel smooth. Is this a normal thing?

Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Grrrrrr!

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by philp38

The Pro Cycle Jet Kit and drilled slide also worked great on my 2009.

Same here.

I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.

It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by badweatherbiker

Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.

In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, if at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek