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Old 10-27-2012, 07:49 PM   #70486
Sierra Thumper
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Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Thumb A battery tender, a bikes best friend

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
You guys yapping about batteries put the bad voodoo on me. Went to start the bike this morning...would barely crank over...and not enough to start. Damn it! I only got 3 years out of that battery! What a piece of shit. All of my other bikes lasted atleast 5 years. I really wanted to ride this morning but didn't have time to throw the charger on it- wish it had a kick start!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
It's colder here than where you are, but 3 years is all I have gotten from my last 2 batteries for my DR650. (6 months so far on the latest one) I would pay more for a battery that would last longer, but how can I know in advance. I go to a local battery specialty place and buy their $70 battery.
Keep the bike plugged into a battery tender when not riding it, and you'll get 8+ years out of a 60 dollar agm battery easily. I do it regularly with Wal-mart batteries They are manufactured by Johnson Controls tho, who makes good batteries
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:34 PM   #70487
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Coming home from work the DR backfired, sputtered and died.........

Called fellow advrider, fbritt5 for a trailer ride home. Glad it wasn't raining. Thanks for the rescue ride Frank.
So, could you post Frank's number?

Quote:
Spent Saturday rebuilding the short switch harness for the kill switch etc.

Opened up the sheath and found factory splices with burned tape. Got out the soldering iron and applied solder to the crimped connections. Taped the two splices and put on the sheath with another over the top of that.

Put the short harness back on the bike and it fired up for a while then it died again. Same thing, headlight weak but gets bright when the kill switch is pressed and the harness gets warm.

Guess there's more wire digging to find the problem. Any ideas of where to look? I did put on a new front knobby (Shinko 244) a few days ago before the engine trouble started.

Dave
With our higher mileage bikes, there might be a 'rub-thru' anywhere in the wiring harness. Suspect any place the zip ties are very tight.

Some time ago an inmate mentioned finding loose crimp connectors inside the wiring harness tape. IIRC, they even changed colors at the splice.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:49 PM   #70488
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.

Check all the seating/metering surfaces for dirt and wear.

Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.

Soak the carb, blow out passages, carefully re-assemble, check the float height, be careful of sealing the boots well, and tune the idle-mix.

The main jet is a 145 you said. I'm guessing that's Mikuni, for a stock exhaust near sea-level.

PC needle on the 4th clip works for me with a plastic D-spacer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.

The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot.

Quote:
Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.

Don't forget #15 and 16:

http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315

Cleaned it all up real good and reassembled it and moved the needle down 1 mark, mine was on the 4th and has no plastic washer. just the half moon aluminum washer on top of the clip.
I am almost finished reassembling everything else and I'll try it tommorrow to see if it helps.
I noticed my front and rear sprockets both have play in them- as in side to side so thats likely where all the vibes are coming from???
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:11 PM   #70489
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
What weight fork oil is appropriate for the stock fork set-up? My dealer told me 5 weight, but the manual says 10 weight.
10 weight!
Don't let that dealer work on your bike
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:23 PM   #70490
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
10 weight!
Don't let that dealer work on your bike

Thank you. Glad I checked the manual. I think the problem is with a certain individual at the dealer.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:57 PM   #70491
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I noticed my front and rear sprockets both have play in them- as in side to side so thats likely where all the vibes are coming from???
Ok, the next thing you need to do is put your finger at the red arrow in the pic below. It's on the rear axle, left side. Push the sprocket left and right, feeling for movement.



If there's any wiggle at the seal, you need to stop riding the bike, before this happens.

Cush hub bearing:



Swingarm:



Does your chain look anything like these pics?


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2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:17 PM   #70492
smilin jack
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,228
Thumb High Miles on DR

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
So, could you post Frank's number?

With our higher mileage bikes, there might be a 'rub-thru' anywhere in the wiring harness. Suspect any place the zip ties are very tight.

Some time ago an inmate mentioned finding loose crimp connectors inside the wiring harness tape. IIRC, they even changed colors at the splice.
My 2006 DR turned over 49K miles last week. Yes, the wires do change colors at the crimped connections inside the wiring harness. Will follow the wires tomorrow, checking for rubbed spots etc. The DMM should help track any bad spots.

Franks trailer was his snow machine hauler... just clearing up details.

Found this in my advrider archives:

Dave

Ignition wires broken

Originally Posted by Billy_Goat
I'd like to share a bizarre problem I had with my 2003 DR650SE.

When I turned the bars all the way to the left the engine would die. It would crank over but not start, lights and everything else worked too.

After confirming that it wasn't the choke or throttle cables, I began checking all the electrical connectors. All the connectors seemed fine so I started messing with the harness and found that when I wiggled the harness the engine would die regardless of what position the bars were in. I checked all the connectors over and over to no avail, so I unwrapped the harness from the speedo to the air box. I found NO damaged wires at all, none. I would start the bike and if I wiggled the wires it would die, very frustrating to say the least. I then separated all the non-essential wires, i.e. lights, horn, etc from the critical wires. I was at my wits end and about to set the bike on fire when it dawned on me that I should check the wires for continuity. So I used the sharp probe tips of my ammeter to check the resistance in the wires and found one wire that would lose continuity if shaken.

It was orange w/black stripe, critical for the ignition.

The wire had no visible damage at all. I soldered in a replacement and haven't had a problem since.

Cliff notes:
Had intermittent electrical problem causing bike to die.
Toned out wires inside harness and found a bad wire. Orange w/black stripe
Soldered in replacement.

Advice:
Check the tension of the harness when bars are at full left.
If it's too tight, free it up a little.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:19 PM   #70493
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
Thank you. Glad I checked the manual. I think the problem is with a certain individual at the dealer.
you can run 5, you just have to drop Intiminators down there first.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:25 PM   #70494
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
you can run 5, you just have to drop Intiminators down there first.
I'm happy with the stock set-up with my milder riding style, so I don't think I'll go that route. I'd better change the fork oil, though, it's been 33,000 miles and over ten years.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:35 PM   #70495
SGrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I'm happy with the stock set-up with my milder riding style, so I don't think I'll go that route. I'd better change the fork oil, though, it's been 33,000 miles and over ten years.
How the hell do you get a fork seal to last that long?
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:44 PM   #70496
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGrider View Post
How the hell do you get a fork seal to last that long?
I use the DR650 as a lightweight touring bike...no real gnarly off-road and not a lot of grit or mud ever applied. They should last that long when not subjected to rough service.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:54 PM   #70497
Lil' Steve
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: NYC, AZ
Oddometer: 3,969
Quote:
Originally Posted by harryhammer View Post
how did it fit?
Havent installed it yet but it measures only 2mm more in depth (height and width are the same) than the dead stock Yuasa YTX9-BS on my bench. Should drop right in but if it doesnt I'll be sure and let everyone know.
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:04 PM   #70498
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
My 2006 DR turned over 49K miles last week.

After confirming that it wasn't the choke or throttle cables, I began checking all the electrical connectors. All the connectors seemed fine so I started messing with the harness and found that when I wiggled the harness the engine would die regardless of what position the bars were in. I checked all the connectors over and over to no avail, so I unwrapped the harness from the speedo to the air box. I found NO damaged wires at all, none. I would start the bike and if I wiggled the wires it would die, very frustrating to say the least. I then separated all the non-essential wires, i.e. lights, horn, etc from the critical wires. I was at my wits end and about to set the bike on fire when it dawned on me that I should check the wires for continuity. So I used the sharp probe tips of my ammeter to check the resistance in the wires and found one wire that would lose continuity if shaken.

It was orange w/black stripe, critical for the ignition.
Dang, that's the post I was remembering. You have quite an archive.

I took this pic at the time. IIRC, the DR wiring diagram doesn't show an orange/black (left side, by the seat bolt).

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2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:08 PM   #70499
TinkerinWstuff
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Location: Colorado Northern Front Range
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I'm happy with the stock set-up with my milder riding style, so I don't think I'll go that route. I'd better change the fork oil, though, it's been 33,000 miles and over ten years.
If you ever decide you're tired of the the forks folding up like cheap lawn furniture, they are worth a try. Just drop in and no permanent modifications. Can always resell them.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:08 AM   #70500
RichBeBe
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Location: NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
Havent installed it yet but it measures only 2mm more in depth (height and width are the same) than the dead stock Yuasa YTX9-BS on my bench. Should drop right in but if it doesnt I'll be sure and let everyone know.
Put mine in today bolts right on, no need to do anything different. I thought I might have had to put a washer under the bracket to shim it up. But with only 2mm it is a direct fit.

Going to take it for a ride to the beach to check out this chick Sandy that is coming to visit.
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