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Old 10-27-2012, 06:08 PM   #70486
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Are you listening Jeff?
Yep. Read the article a few days ago. Still chewing on what all would be required to make up a complete kit.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #70487
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
ok, took the other jet out and its hard to see but looks like maybe a 45? has some markings before it too. id didnt have any o-ring of any sort on it but looking down the passage where I took it out from there is what looks like an o-ring or some kind od black seat or bumper in there, is that normal??????
I now have the float and everything off can i hit everything and all the passages with some air pressure?
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.

Check all the seating/metering surfaces for dirt and wear.

Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.

Soak the carb, blow out passages, carefully re-assemble, check the float height, be careful of sealing the boots well, and tune the idle-mix.

The main jet is a 145 you said. I'm guessing that's Mikuni, for a stock exhaust near sea-level.

PC needle on the 4th clip works for me with a plastic D-spacer.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:36 PM   #70488
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Make sure he checks for swingarm clearance, with the stand up.
Gotcha. Yup, the pad needs to align with the heel of the existing pad. Any extensions are to the side or front.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:51 PM   #70489
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Thumb Radial round about

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Yep. Read the article a few days ago. Still chewing on what all would be required to make up a complete kit.

Attaboy!

Hopefully with the more affordable Nissan unit? Brembo is better but at twice the price?
I think you will HAVE to buy both to experiment with and check fit, hose connections, etc.
Product development research is tough work but it has to be done...

Best article on why radials work so well that I have read.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:54 PM   #70490
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.
The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot.

Quote:
Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.
Don't forget #15 and 16:

http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:32 PM   #70491
Klay
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What weight fork oil is appropriate for the stock fork set-up? My dealer told me 5 weight, but the manual says 10 weight.
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:36 PM   #70492
smilin jack
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DR backfired and died

Coming home from work the DR backfired, sputtered and died. I coasted to a wide spot in the ditch and checked it over for anything obvious.

Fuel tank 1/4 full (still had about 30 miles to reserve). Added 1 gallon from extra fuel can.

Put stock petcock on Prime.

Bike fired up, so saddled up and waited for a gap in the busy traffic.

Hit first gear, turned the handlebars for my "line" up the dirt bank to the 4 lane highway and the bike died.

It wouldn't start again... the headlight and neutral light were dim. They got bright when the kill switch was pressed but still wouldn't start. The wires coming out of the stitches (kill, starter, front brake light) were getting warm. Seems there's a small short somewhere.

Edit: Called fellow advrider, fbritt5 for a rescue ride home. Glad it wasn't raining. Thanks for the rescue ride Frank.

Spent Saturday rebuilding the short switch harness for the kill switch etc.

Opened up the sheath and found factory splices with burned tape. Got out the soldering iron and applied solder to the crimped connections. Taped the two splices and put on the sheath with another over the top of that.












Put the short harness back on the bike and it fired up for a while then it died again. Same thing, headlight weak but gets bright when the kill switch is pressed and the harness gets warm.

Guess there's more wire digging to find the problem. Any ideas of where to look? I did put on a new front knobby (Shinko 244) a few days ago before the engine trouble started.

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 10-27-2012 at 10:20 PM
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:49 PM   #70493
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
You guys yapping about batteries put the bad voodoo on me. Went to start the bike this morning...would barely crank over...and not enough to start. Damn it! I only got 3 years out of that battery! What a piece of shit. All of my other bikes lasted atleast 5 years. I really wanted to ride this morning but didn't have time to throw the charger on it- wish it had a kick start!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
It's colder here than where you are, but 3 years is all I have gotten from my last 2 batteries for my DR650. (6 months so far on the latest one) I would pay more for a battery that would last longer, but how can I know in advance. I go to a local battery specialty place and buy their $70 battery.
Keep the bike plugged into a battery tender when not riding it, and you'll get 8+ years out of a 60 dollar agm battery easily. I do it regularly with Wal-mart batteries They are manufactured by Johnson Controls tho, who makes good batteries
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:34 PM   #70494
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Coming home from work the DR backfired, sputtered and died.........

Called fellow advrider, fbritt5 for a trailer ride home. Glad it wasn't raining. Thanks for the rescue ride Frank.
So, could you post Frank's number?

Quote:
Spent Saturday rebuilding the short switch harness for the kill switch etc.

Opened up the sheath and found factory splices with burned tape. Got out the soldering iron and applied solder to the crimped connections. Taped the two splices and put on the sheath with another over the top of that.

Put the short harness back on the bike and it fired up for a while then it died again. Same thing, headlight weak but gets bright when the kill switch is pressed and the harness gets warm.

Guess there's more wire digging to find the problem. Any ideas of where to look? I did put on a new front knobby (Shinko 244) a few days ago before the engine trouble started.

Dave
With our higher mileage bikes, there might be a 'rub-thru' anywhere in the wiring harness. Suspect any place the zip ties are very tight.

Some time ago an inmate mentioned finding loose crimp connectors inside the wiring harness tape. IIRC, they even changed colors at the splice.
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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:49 PM   #70495
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.

Check all the seating/metering surfaces for dirt and wear.

Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.

Soak the carb, blow out passages, carefully re-assemble, check the float height, be careful of sealing the boots well, and tune the idle-mix.

The main jet is a 145 you said. I'm guessing that's Mikuni, for a stock exhaust near sea-level.

PC needle on the 4th clip works for me with a plastic D-spacer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando
45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.

The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot.

Quote:
Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap.

Don't forget #15 and 16:

http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315

Cleaned it all up real good and reassembled it and moved the needle down 1 mark, mine was on the 4th and has no plastic washer. just the half moon aluminum washer on top of the clip.
I am almost finished reassembling everything else and I'll try it tommorrow to see if it helps.
I noticed my front and rear sprockets both have play in them- as in side to side so thats likely where all the vibes are coming from???
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:11 PM   #70496
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
What weight fork oil is appropriate for the stock fork set-up? My dealer told me 5 weight, but the manual says 10 weight.
10 weight!
Don't let that dealer work on your bike
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:23 PM   #70497
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
10 weight!
Don't let that dealer work on your bike

Thank you. Glad I checked the manual. I think the problem is with a certain individual at the dealer.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:57 PM   #70498
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I noticed my front and rear sprockets both have play in them- as in side to side so thats likely where all the vibes are coming from???
Ok, the next thing you need to do is put your finger at the red arrow in the pic below. It's on the rear axle, left side. Push the sprocket left and right, feeling for movement.



If there's any wiggle at the seal, you need to stop riding the bike, before this happens.

Cush hub bearing:



Swingarm:



Does your chain look anything like these pics?


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2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:17 PM   #70499
smilin jack
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,226
Thumb High Miles on DR

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
So, could you post Frank's number?

With our higher mileage bikes, there might be a 'rub-thru' anywhere in the wiring harness. Suspect any place the zip ties are very tight.

Some time ago an inmate mentioned finding loose crimp connectors inside the wiring harness tape. IIRC, they even changed colors at the splice.
My 2006 DR turned over 49K miles last week. Yes, the wires do change colors at the crimped connections inside the wiring harness. Will follow the wires tomorrow, checking for rubbed spots etc. The DMM should help track any bad spots.

Franks trailer was his snow machine hauler... just clearing up details.

Found this in my advrider archives:

Dave

Ignition wires broken

Originally Posted by Billy_Goat
I'd like to share a bizarre problem I had with my 2003 DR650SE.

When I turned the bars all the way to the left the engine would die. It would crank over but not start, lights and everything else worked too.

After confirming that it wasn't the choke or throttle cables, I began checking all the electrical connectors. All the connectors seemed fine so I started messing with the harness and found that when I wiggled the harness the engine would die regardless of what position the bars were in. I checked all the connectors over and over to no avail, so I unwrapped the harness from the speedo to the air box. I found NO damaged wires at all, none. I would start the bike and if I wiggled the wires it would die, very frustrating to say the least. I then separated all the non-essential wires, i.e. lights, horn, etc from the critical wires. I was at my wits end and about to set the bike on fire when it dawned on me that I should check the wires for continuity. So I used the sharp probe tips of my ammeter to check the resistance in the wires and found one wire that would lose continuity if shaken.

It was orange w/black stripe, critical for the ignition.

The wire had no visible damage at all. I soldered in a replacement and haven't had a problem since.

Cliff notes:
Had intermittent electrical problem causing bike to die.
Toned out wires inside harness and found a bad wire. Orange w/black stripe
Soldered in replacement.

Advice:
Check the tension of the harness when bars are at full left.
If it's too tight, free it up a little.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:19 PM   #70500
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
Thank you. Glad I checked the manual. I think the problem is with a certain individual at the dealer.
you can run 5, you just have to drop Intiminators down there first.
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