ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-31-2012, 01:15 PM   #70606
victor441
Beastly Adventurer
 
victor441's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Oddometer: 1,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I just ordered new steering bearings from ProCycle. Is there a link to a HOWTO on changing these out? I have the service manual, but wanted to ask here first. I'm not sure if I have the tools needed to do this, especially if it requires them to be pressed on or off.

Something weird is going on with my steering. I've posted about it here before but never figured it out. But it feels like there's an on-center "detent" that makes it very hard to actually turn the bars ever so slightly (whether countersteering at speed, or regular steering at low speeds) that makes it necessary to exaggerate. I've used four different sets of tires on the bike and it does it with all of them, so it's not the tires. So it comes down to either the steering bearings or maybe something in the forks. The detent, or "notch," is undetectable with the front wheel off the ground, but with weight on the front wheel, even at a standstill, it's easy to feel. My KLX250S doesn't do this and neither does my FZ1.

Rob
That problem is common on BMW airheads FWIW, the tapered rollers make small dents in the races (brinelling) and the steering becomes indexed like you said, happened to me. There are probably some writeups here or elsewhere on the web on replacing the bearings on a BMW that might be helpful, there are some tricks for removing and installing the races.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling


victor441 screwed with this post 10-31-2012 at 01:27 PM
victor441 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 06:20 PM   #70607
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
...it feels like there's an on-center "detent" that makes it very hard to actually turn the bars ever so slightly (whether countersteering at speed, or regular steering at low speeds) that makes it necessary to exaggerate...
Classic symptoms of worn steering bearings. When you haven't experienced detented bearings before it feels like tire problems. It can make it very difficult to ride in a straight line at medium speeds.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 06:48 PM   #70608
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,982
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Classic symptoms of worn steering bearings. When you haven't experienced detented bearings before it feels like tire problems. It can make it very difficult to ride in a straight line at medium speeds.
Often you feel it as you come to a stop. The bike weaves around really badly then.
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
Emmbeedee is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #70609
Rex Nemo
horizon calling
 
Rex Nemo's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: SF Bay
Oddometer: 321
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Is that the Coyote bag or the Great Basin?
Great Basin. I also have a Coyote for shorter trips.
Another note--it's possible to pack a bit lighter on trips with a group, as you can share tent, stove, and such. Solo, your load is necessarily heavier.
__________________
Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe. --Anatole France
Rex Nemo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #70610
P-P
Adventurer
 
P-P's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada
Oddometer: 97
I agree wholeheartedly Travelguy! Not that I can do half of what that man could do, I give him (and all the other brave souls here)credit for DOING IT! Lifes an adventure and we need to ride OUR adventure... yours may be 4wd with a bike in the back... his was a bike with a 4wd and a bunch more in back!! Keep on truckin!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
What a limited "point of view" you have of life.

TraveGuy
__________________
Just say NO! to CaliFornication!
P-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 09:00 PM   #70611
JagLite
Beastly Adventurer
 
JagLite's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,439
Thumb Stem Bearing install

I put the bearing in the oven and the stem in the freezer.
The bearing slid right on the stem, no force needed.

I put the bearing cup in the freezer and was able to press it (them) into the steering head by using a 12" long piece of 5/8" all-thread with a stack of increasing size washers and a nut on each end. The largest washer must be big enough to cover the stem tube so that when you tighten the nuts one end can't move and the other end pulls the bearing cup down into the stem.

You do need to make sure the cup stays straight and pulls in evenly.
I use a hammer to tap the large washer lightly if the cup starts crooked.
Don't force it, let the bolt suck it in.

Do one at a time.

I have a couple pieces of all-thread of different sizes and a bunch of heavy washers of various sizes up to 4" square bolt plates.
The all-thread works good for low pressure pressing and is very handy to have.

Oh, DON'T GREASE THE BEARINGS BEFORE PUTTING THEM IN THE OVEN!
I also put the bearing cups in a baggy in the freezer to keep moisture off.
I put a little grease on the cups before pressing them in.
__________________
Attitude ~
The difference between
Ordeal and Adventure
James
JagLite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 10:15 PM   #70612
Chill
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 333
I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
Chill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 11:22 PM   #70613
Feelers
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Oddometer: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
Oh god. Oil. Again.
I always go full synthetic because it offers longer lasting property retention. It really doesn't matter what you use as long as it is not energy conserving and you change it appropriately. You are over-thinking it. Whatever brand of 10W-40 will do.
Feelers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 11:36 PM   #70614
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,933
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
You're in Oz. Use Caltex Delo 400. I now have 44,000 kms on my DR using it, changed every 3-4,000 kms. I got it 2nd hand with 11,000 kms. Can't tell the difference in shifting when fresh oil goes in, so it may well go quite a bit further. I've been using it for years in my Bergs and in my old 501 it tripled the service life of the cam roller follower bearings and still going compared to Mobil 1R4T used exclusively previously. The last 20 l drum I got from the depot was $86. and its available at any Caltex servo in Oz so makes for easy changes when travelling. Others I've convinced to use it in their DRs report improved shifting and longetivity too. You had to ask
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 05:34 AM   #70615
canoli
human
 
canoli's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Not from round these parts.
Oddometer: 1,793
Fueling problem?

Just fitted a Safari 30 liter tank and started having some problems. Specifically 2-3 min after I start-up the bike sputters and dies. If I let it warm up things are OK but if I push it and just start it and go, it dies at the side of the road until more gas gets flowing. I am using a Safari tank with dual petcocks and the standard carb (no mods). I've put in a bottle of STP carb cleaner though it but that did nothing except cost me $5. Do I need to disassemble the carb to clean it? Do I make the fuel hose smaller (get rid of that 1/2 loop?) Do I need to crank the carb elbow over 90 degrees? Bike has roughly 14,000 HARD miles on it and the air/oil filters are clean and new.

Thanks,
Canoli
canoli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 06:51 AM   #70616
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 717
I have a Safari on my DR and have no problems but did you rinse the tank out with gas before installing? After a few weeks of using the tank I did rotate the fuel connection on the carb to 3 o'clock just to clean up line routing. My DR does like 20 or so seconds of choke after startup, stock carb adn jetting. I'm totally happy with my Safari tank. I like being able to ride 400+ miles without filling up and the Safari carries the fuel load low so the extra weight is not noticed.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Just fitted a Safari 30 liter tank and started having some problems. Specifically 2-3 min after I start-up the bike sputters and dies. If I let it warm up things are OK but if I push it and just start it and go, it dies at the side of the road until more gas gets flowing. I am using a Safari tank with dual petcocks and the standard carb (no mods). I've put in a bottle of STP carb cleaner though it but that did nothing except cost me $5. Do I need to disassemble the carb to clean it? Do I make the fuel hose smaller (get rid of that 1/2 loop?) Do I need to crank the carb elbow over 90 degrees? Bike has roughly 14,000 HARD miles on it and the air/oil filters are clean and new.

Thanks,
Canoli
__________________
TRAVELGUY
DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
.
TRAVELGUY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 07:23 AM   #70617
neo1piv014
ADV in training
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 627
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Often you feel it as you come to a stop. The bike weaves around really badly then.
Hmm...that sounds very familiar indeed. I guess I'll have to look into doing my steering bearings as well.
__________________
_________________________
Ride videos
'01 DR650
"The impossible often has a kind of integrity which the merely improbable lacks."
neo1piv014 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 07:27 AM   #70618
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently NW Oregon
Oddometer: 2,280
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Hmm...that sounds very familiar indeed. I guess I'll have to look into doing my steering bearings as well.
Yep! That sounds just like it. And it's not so much that it weaves, it's that because it's stuck in the detent, you end up exaggerating your corrections for going straight that it weaves. Been driving me up a wall for over a year.

I hope this is a job I can do myself with limited tools; I'm pretty broke right now (paycheck due later next week), but would love to get it done this weekend. I wonder what a dealer would charge, even though it really isn't an option right now. Guessing an hour ($60-70 here in Oregon) if I brought them the stem and parts.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'92 Yamaha TW200
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 07:42 AM   #70619
TDY
Gnarly Adventurer
 
TDY's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
... The detent, or "notch," is undetectable with the front wheel off the ground...
Rob
The mass of the wheel and forks can mask the effect. If you want to check for dead bearings before you buy replacements you can often feel the problem by removing the front wheel and forks and then turn the handle-bars very slowly.
__________________
'15 FZ-07 (new road toy) . . . . . . . . 01 DR650 (work horse)
'08 CRF230F (fun in the trails) . . . . . '11 CRF150F (no trail too tight)
TDY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2012, 07:50 AM   #70620
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 3,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
Honestly I didn't even know Motul made a mineral motorcycle oil. I use the Motul Synthetic E- Tech 100 10/40 in my sport bikes year around and in the DR in the summer. Why not just stick with Motul? They make about 3 diffrent synthetics just in 10/40...and countless others.

The only reason I run synthetic in the DR is for the higher break down point.
Mongle is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015