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Old 10-31-2012, 12:55 PM   #70606
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
sounds like the bearings have given up the ghost. Dried up or theres a rusted one. the bearings are supposed to roll freely if they are dried out , or the grease is corrupted it would cause those issues. the reason you dont see it with the wheel in the air is there is no load on it. put a load on it and then the bearings really cominto play. sounds like you know what the issue is but just need a little hand holding. trouble shooting and being able to explain it to someone else goes along way to resolving issues and saving money. caause you have explained it happens under load , changed tires still happens remove load and the issue goes away . check the bearings replace or grease them . Jimbo

Thanks! I'm glad to know this is the likely culprit.

I found the page in the service manual (5-20), but it makes no mention about the bearings needing to be pressed. I suppose if they do, I'll run the stem over to the local cycle shop and let them do it. I'll get the bike ready to be disassembled tonight after I straighten up the garage a bit. The bearings are due here tomorrow.

Rob
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:07 PM   #70607
sandwash
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The bearing itself is not pressed,but 3 of 4 races are.If I remember right.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:15 PM   #70608
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I just ordered new steering bearings from ProCycle. Is there a link to a HOWTO on changing these out? I have the service manual, but wanted to ask here first. I'm not sure if I have the tools needed to do this, especially if it requires them to be pressed on or off.

Something weird is going on with my steering. I've posted about it here before but never figured it out. But it feels like there's an on-center "detent" that makes it very hard to actually turn the bars ever so slightly (whether countersteering at speed, or regular steering at low speeds) that makes it necessary to exaggerate. I've used four different sets of tires on the bike and it does it with all of them, so it's not the tires. So it comes down to either the steering bearings or maybe something in the forks. The detent, or "notch," is undetectable with the front wheel off the ground, but with weight on the front wheel, even at a standstill, it's easy to feel. My KLX250S doesn't do this and neither does my FZ1.

Rob
That problem is common on BMW airheads FWIW, the tapered rollers make small dents in the races (brinelling) and the steering becomes indexed like you said, happened to me. There are probably some writeups here or elsewhere on the web on replacing the bearings on a BMW that might be helpful, there are some tricks for removing and installing the races.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling


victor441 screwed with this post 10-31-2012 at 01:27 PM
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:20 PM   #70609
procycle
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
...it feels like there's an on-center "detent" that makes it very hard to actually turn the bars ever so slightly (whether countersteering at speed, or regular steering at low speeds) that makes it necessary to exaggerate...
Classic symptoms of worn steering bearings. When you haven't experienced detented bearings before it feels like tire problems. It can make it very difficult to ride in a straight line at medium speeds.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:48 PM   #70610
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Classic symptoms of worn steering bearings. When you haven't experienced detented bearings before it feels like tire problems. It can make it very difficult to ride in a straight line at medium speeds.
Often you feel it as you come to a stop. The bike weaves around really badly then.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #70611
Rex Nemo
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Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Is that the Coyote bag or the Great Basin?
Great Basin. I also have a Coyote for shorter trips.
Another note--it's possible to pack a bit lighter on trips with a group, as you can share tent, stove, and such. Solo, your load is necessarily heavier.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #70612
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I agree wholeheartedly Travelguy! Not that I can do half of what that man could do, I give him (and all the other brave souls here)credit for DOING IT! Lifes an adventure and we need to ride OUR adventure... yours may be 4wd with a bike in the back... his was a bike with a 4wd and a bunch more in back!! Keep on truckin!

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What a limited "point of view" you have of life.

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Old 10-31-2012, 09:00 PM   #70613
JagLite
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Thumb Stem Bearing install

I put the bearing in the oven and the stem in the freezer.
The bearing slid right on the stem, no force needed.

I put the bearing cup in the freezer and was able to press it (them) into the steering head by using a 12" long piece of 5/8" all-thread with a stack of increasing size washers and a nut on each end. The largest washer must be big enough to cover the stem tube so that when you tighten the nuts one end can't move and the other end pulls the bearing cup down into the stem.

You do need to make sure the cup stays straight and pulls in evenly.
I use a hammer to tap the large washer lightly if the cup starts crooked.
Don't force it, let the bolt suck it in.

Do one at a time.

I have a couple pieces of all-thread of different sizes and a bunch of heavy washers of various sizes up to 4" square bolt plates.
The all-thread works good for low pressure pressing and is very handy to have.

Oh, DON'T GREASE THE BEARINGS BEFORE PUTTING THEM IN THE OVEN!
I also put the bearing cups in a baggy in the freezer to keep moisture off.
I put a little grease on the cups before pressing them in.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:15 PM   #70614
Chill
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I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:22 PM   #70615
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
Oh god. Oil. Again.
I always go full synthetic because it offers longer lasting property retention. It really doesn't matter what you use as long as it is not energy conserving and you change it appropriately. You are over-thinking it. Whatever brand of 10W-40 will do.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:36 PM   #70616
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I really don't want to start another huge "what oil" debate but I have read oil posts in this thread until I have nearly gone blind and have gone round and round in circles. I have a couple of questions still...
There are three different Castrol varieties here.
Activ 4T (mineral) 15/50
Power 1 GPS (semi synthetic) 10/40
Power 1 Racing (fully Synthetic) 5/40
The price difference is negligible. It's coming up to summer here with night temps about 20c (70f) and days 25-35c (75-95f)
Is there any benefit to me going fully synthetic or do I stick with the mineral, currently I'm using Motul. I'm leaning towards trying the semi-synthetic because it is spot on the recommended 10/40 and seeing if there's any marked improvement in shifting. Or should I go for the mineral because of its higher temp protection?
You're in Oz. Use Caltex Delo 400. I now have 44,000 kms on my DR using it, changed every 3-4,000 kms. I got it 2nd hand with 11,000 kms. Can't tell the difference in shifting when fresh oil goes in, so it may well go quite a bit further. I've been using it for years in my Bergs and in my old 501 it tripled the service life of the cam roller follower bearings and still going compared to Mobil 1R4T used exclusively previously. The last 20 l drum I got from the depot was $86. and its available at any Caltex servo in Oz so makes for easy changes when travelling. Others I've convinced to use it in their DRs report improved shifting and longetivity too. You had to ask
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:34 AM   #70617
canoli
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Fueling problem?

Just fitted a Safari 30 liter tank and started having some problems. Specifically 2-3 min after I start-up the bike sputters and dies. If I let it warm up things are OK but if I push it and just start it and go, it dies at the side of the road until more gas gets flowing. I am using a Safari tank with dual petcocks and the standard carb (no mods). I've put in a bottle of STP carb cleaner though it but that did nothing except cost me $5. Do I need to disassemble the carb to clean it? Do I make the fuel hose smaller (get rid of that 1/2 loop?) Do I need to crank the carb elbow over 90 degrees? Bike has roughly 14,000 HARD miles on it and the air/oil filters are clean and new.

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:51 AM   #70618
TRAVELGUY
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I have a Safari on my DR and have no problems but did you rinse the tank out with gas before installing? After a few weeks of using the tank I did rotate the fuel connection on the carb to 3 o'clock just to clean up line routing. My DR does like 20 or so seconds of choke after startup, stock carb adn jetting. I'm totally happy with my Safari tank. I like being able to ride 400+ miles without filling up and the Safari carries the fuel load low so the extra weight is not noticed.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Just fitted a Safari 30 liter tank and started having some problems. Specifically 2-3 min after I start-up the bike sputters and dies. If I let it warm up things are OK but if I push it and just start it and go, it dies at the side of the road until more gas gets flowing. I am using a Safari tank with dual petcocks and the standard carb (no mods). I've put in a bottle of STP carb cleaner though it but that did nothing except cost me $5. Do I need to disassemble the carb to clean it? Do I make the fuel hose smaller (get rid of that 1/2 loop?) Do I need to crank the carb elbow over 90 degrees? Bike has roughly 14,000 HARD miles on it and the air/oil filters are clean and new.

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:23 AM   #70619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Often you feel it as you come to a stop. The bike weaves around really badly then.
Hmm...that sounds very familiar indeed. I guess I'll have to look into doing my steering bearings as well.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:27 AM   #70620
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Hmm...that sounds very familiar indeed. I guess I'll have to look into doing my steering bearings as well.
Yep! That sounds just like it. And it's not so much that it weaves, it's that because it's stuck in the detent, you end up exaggerating your corrections for going straight that it weaves. Been driving me up a wall for over a year.

I hope this is a job I can do myself with limited tools; I'm pretty broke right now (paycheck due later next week), but would love to get it done this weekend. I wonder what a dealer would charge, even though it really isn't an option right now. Guessing an hour ($60-70 here in Oregon) if I brought them the stem and parts.

Rob
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