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Old 11-05-2012, 05:03 AM   #70726
snatchy
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Location: Nth East OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I am considering a couple weeks in Baja, probably riding to the southern-most tip and back. I'm considering the need/want for a steering damper. Any thoughts on the necessity of this? I don't "want" one, I'm more concerned with the "need" for one, if that makes sense. I realize people ride without them, but I'm wondering if it'll make enough of a difference that it'd be worth the hundreds of $ toward the the ease/pleasure of the ride.

Also, I am considering the Ralle-Moto RM2 (I think that's the model). Any gooder ones I should consider?
You can fit a Scotts Damper in a few different ways.

If you wanted to fit the Scotts damper with standard bars then the universal kit mounting will make it fit. It is not a DR650 specific kit and hence it is a little more stuffing around but works fine except that you will need to buy new bars with a higher crossbar! This is an over bar mount kit, but can be the basis for an under bar mount by excluding some parts when fitting.
http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabiliz...S&BI_ID=163495
The link to the fitting instructions for a DR650 over bar is here;
http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack,/219.pdf

If you want or have oversize bars then it is a bit easier and the mount looks much neater (still an overbar setup);
http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabiliz...S&BI_ID=163492

I have a Scotts fitted under bar to my DR650 since I already had the Scotts damper on my other bike. This thread at Thumpertalk shows how someone did it for an under bar mount (universal mount kit for standard size bars, plus 2 inch ROX risers);
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/398...ering-dampner/

Under bar or over bar you will need to weld on the damper post. Note that to make this kit work under bar you will need to buy 2 inch risers as well. Over bar fitment for standard bars might be a little bit flexy according to some?

I get the impression that the Ralle-moto kit would be less hassle to fit than the Scotts Kit because they appear to have a clamp on post rather than weld on post. This might not be a big difference if you have easy access to a welder

I think the damper is great on my other trail bike, but I haven't used it enough on the dr650 to make judgement. If it saves me from one big crash then to me it is worth it, especially after some recent health issues have highlighted how valuable a fully functional body is. Easily sold for good money 2nd hand if the trial is a failure and you think it is useless.

Enjoy the trip!
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:15 AM   #70727
mrprez
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New spokes

I need some new spokes for a 21" front rim, OEM seems to be in the $50 range, anyone know of a better source?
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:18 AM   #70728
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So I replaced a rear fender this weekend, all seemed to be pretty straightforwad. The only way I saw to get the light off was to cut the 3 lines and then re-attach. I did that and have checked and rechecked to make sure they have a good connection and are paired correctly. They are, but now my taillight and rear signals aren't working. I didnt even touch the lines to the signals. Any ideas on where I screwed the pooch here?
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:38 AM   #70729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feelers View Post
in overall capability, which other bikes do you guys think are most directly comparable to the dr?
xr650l, F650GS
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:56 AM   #70730
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Thanks for the replies re the damper.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:19 PM   #70731
quick'n'dirty
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hi, i was hopeing you guys could help me out. i was checking my sparkplugs when a small amount of dirt fell into the combustion chamber and the dirt from around that area seemed a bit sandy too. will this destroy the engine or will it just blow out of there ? 2012 dr 650. thanks for your time
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:20 PM   #70732
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick'n'dirty View Post
hi, i was hopeing you guys could help me out. i was checking my sparkplugs when a small amount of dirt fell into the combustion chamber and the dirt from around that area seemed a bit sandy too. will this destroy the engine or will it just blow out of there ? 2012 dr 650. thanks for your time
I'm curious to know what the others think, but I'm inclined to say it'll be fine, just don't make a habit of letting that happen. :)

Rob
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:34 PM   #70733
ER70S-2
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Welcome to the site.

Grains of sand can be extremely hard, are ya feelin' lucky?

Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 01:42 PM
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:03 PM   #70734
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixblack1 View Post
what do you set the MSC at in the sand? i found the steering damper great at high speed gravel roads but when I hit the sand it stuffed my riding and I ended up turning it off.
Mines the Titan model. I've found that I'm happy enough with it set to Motocross and 5 for all normal riding, and I just change the damping mode to Desert for sand. Too much damping and you don't seem to get enough feedback and it gets harder to keep in line.

The only time I've had Big Berg in the desert and heavy sand in places on a 4 day ride at Murray Sunset, I ended up leaving the Scotts at my normal bush/enduro settings too. Stiffening it up just dulled the feedback and made it harder to ride.

Bikes will self correct to an extent, but if the damping is too tight, they won't in my experience.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:04 PM   #70735
Burnt Toast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
So I replaced a rear fender this weekend, all seemed to be pretty straightforwad. The only way I saw to get the light off was to cut the 3 lines and then re-attach. I did that and have checked and rechecked to make sure they have a good connection and are paired correctly. They are, but now my taillight and rear signals aren't working. I didnt even touch the lines to the signals. Any ideas on where I screwed the pooch here?

You may have shorted them out when you cut them. Check for a blown fuse. Take more time when doing this stuff. If you follow those wires just a little ways, you'd see connectors around the mid-seat area...detach and thread though!

If all still looks good...check all connections again! Electrical problems suck, my vote is to create as few as possible.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:16 PM   #70736
JagLite
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Eh? 13 tooth sprocket

Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Bought lowering links from ProCycle and the holes were just about 1/2 inch closer than the ones I have on. Switched them out and noticed no difference. The ones I had on said E32 on them, do not know if they are stock. Any Ideas?
Also bought a 520 13 tooth front to run with stock chain. Many people said no problem. The part that screws into sprocket
has only has 2 holes for bolts into sprocket where as my other one, ProCycle, has 3. 2 bolts OK?

Heirhead

Not very good at riding bikes and worse working on them!!!!!!!!!
I am guessing you didn't get the 13 tooth sprocket from ProCycle.
I got mine from them and it came WITH the new 2 hole retainer.
I believe it is a Yamaha part (?)
If you call PC and are real nice, they may tell you the retainer part number so you can go to your local Yammy dealer and get one.
Or order one, or you could send PC a few dollars and ask them to drop one in the mail to you.

BTW the stock retainer will work with a 14 tooth if it is slightly ground down to decrease the outside diameter.
The 13 tooth requires a new retainer, or as was mentioned, c-clips in the retainer groove.

520 sprockets will work fine with 525 chain.
"Might" wear the chain out a tiny bit faster but I doubt enough difference to notice compared to how important chain (lack of) tension adjusting and cleaning/oiling make.
Too tight is BAD-BAD-BAD! Too loose not so much.

If the lowering link holes are closer together than the ones you removed, the bike is now lower in the rear.
Period.
UNLESS, you increased the preload on the shock and raised the back end up.
Did you change anything else when you installed the links?
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #70737
felixblack1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Mines the Titan model. I've found that I'm happy enough with it set to Motocross and 5 for all normal riding, and I just change the damping mode to Desert for sand. Too much damping and you don't seem to get enough feedback and it gets harder to keep in line.

The only time I've had Big Berg in the desert and heavy sand in places on a 4 day ride at Murray Sunset, I ended up leaving the Scotts at my normal bush/enduro settings too. Stiffening it up just dulled the feedback and made it harder to ride.

Bikes will self correct to an extent, but if the damping is too tight, they won't in my experience.
thanks BergDonk. sounds exactly why i was having a problem. lack of feedback and had a hard time keeping to the wheel tracks.
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:42 PM   #70738
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixblack1 View Post
thanks BergDonk. sounds exactly why i was having a problem. lack of feedback and had a hard time keeping to the wheel tracks.
I suppose on further reflection, if you don't have any stability issues, and DR650s don't normally, IMHO dampers don't really help in heavy sand. OK in light sand, especially if its not too rutted, but helpful on harder terrain with rocks and ruts. YMMV
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:00 PM   #70739
TRAVELGUY
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I think you have the backwards? Shorter links should raise the seat height, longer links will lower the seat height.

TravelGuy

If the lowering link holes are closer together than the ones you removed, the bike is now lower in the rear.
Period.
UNLESS, you increased the preload on the shock and raised the back end up.
Did you change anything else when you installed the links?[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:15 PM   #70740
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick'n'dirty View Post
hi, i was hopeing you guys could help me out. i was checking my sparkplugs when a small amount of dirt fell into the combustion chamber and the dirt from around that area seemed a bit sandy too. will this destroy the engine or will it just blow out of there ? 2012 dr 650. thanks for your time
Best to take it apart and clean.

Regards,

Derek
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