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Old 11-05-2012, 06:47 PM   #70741
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickensheets View Post
+1 Don't give up on stock carb. It works FINE for 99% of us.
Yes, it does work fine.

But the pumpers are even better.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:56 PM   #70742
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
think you have the backwards? Shorter links should raise the seat height, longer links will lower the seat height.

TravelGuy
Ding, the light goes on. TravelGuy nailed it. I knew if we talked long enough, someone would figure it out.

Heirhead:

Shorter links won't work in the DR, there will be interference at the red circle. (BergDonk's photo) Look at your bike, good chance yours is hitting.
To lower the bike, you want longer arms.

BergDonk said this in the linked post:
"And results in about 2 mm clearance, although not real obvious in the pic. The shock will extend further too when it tops out, about 2 mm according to Frank, so a bit of clearance is good. It's also why shorter link arms aren't really a solution to getting the ride height up. "

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=54

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 07:04 PM
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:08 PM   #70743
Chill
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I notice you have fitted the aftermarket choke. I tried the same one, problem was the throttle lobes (where cables attach) hit the choke. I know some have modified the choke mechanism to avoid this. I just stayed with stock choke ... new after market one sits in my "DR Box" unused.

Any easy fixes on this?
I fitted one of these and just had to file off the top of the "stop" I can see from the photos that the OP has also done this. It only hits at full throttle.

Could you expand on your pumper carb comments, why you were not impressed? I'm still toying with the idea so I'm just curious.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:54 PM   #70744
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil View Post
How long ago was that ? I would like to have a look at the chart. Last time I had my shock out I was moving the swingarm through its travel and it looked like the linkage point where the shock bolts on starts to travel more horizontal than vertical near the end of its travel but this can only be determined by accurately plotting it's travel. This would have a detrimental effect on the suspension performance. I was thinking of of making some clamps up for my digital calipers so I could bolt them in the position of the shock to measure things.
Here's a link
http://drriders.com/topic4964.html
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:57 PM   #70745
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Welcome to the site.

Grains of sand can be extremely hard, are ya feelin' lucky?

Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out.
I did the same thing. I first used a tiny telescoping magnet. That got a bit of it out ... then put a dab of grease on the end and got a few more chunks from inside.
And finally, squirted some oil down in there. I figure if whatever is in there is coated in oil ... maybe it won't do much damage? Anyway, fired her up ... and never thought about it again. That was about 25,000 miles back.

Now ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I first use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it. Put in your new plugs and be done ... and DON't over tighten them!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 10:05 PM
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:07 PM   #70746
joefromsf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I did the same thing. I first used a tiny telescoping magnet. That got a bit of it out ... then put a dab of grease on the end and got a few more chunks.
And finally, squirted some oil down in there. I figure if whatever is in there coated in oil ... maybe it won't do much damage? Anyway, fired here up ... and never thought about it again. That was about 25,000 miles back.

Now ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it. Put in your new plugs and be done ... and DON't over tighten them!
For on the road access I keep a drinking straw in my toolkit for blowing out the dirt and crud before removing spark plug. Also poke around with something to break up mud and dirt clumps. Be sure to close your eyes while doing blowing it out. DAMHIK.

joefromsf screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 10:08 PM Reason: clarification
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:12 PM   #70747
Chill
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Same. I tend to blow it out with a can of compressed air, then loosen the plug half a turn and blow again, gets loads more out.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:48 PM   #70748
heirhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Ding, the light goes on. TravelGuy nailed it. I knew if we talked long enough, someone would figure it out.

Heirhead:

Shorter links won't work in the DR, there will be interference at the red circle. (BergDonk's photo) Look at your bike, good chance yours is hitting.
To lower the bike, you want longer arms.

BergDonk said this in the linked post:
"And results in about 2 mm clearance, although not real obvious in the pic. The shock will extend further too when it tops out, about 2 mm according to Frank, so a bit of clearance is good. It's also why shorter link arms aren't really a solution to getting the ride height up. "

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=54

Hello,

13 tooth was a two holer and came with retainer, Yamaha. Just wanted to make sure it was right, THANKS!!!
Lowering links were from ProCycle and supposed to make the bike 1" lower. When I put them on I also put on Corbin seat which is wider. Bike felt way taller. Put Gel seat on and bike still felt tall. Will call Pro Cycle in am to get Dim. on holes. Then will see about RED CIRCLE!! If the links need to be longer to lower the circle maybe will not come into play.

Thanks again guys for the great info.

Heirhead
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:56 AM   #70749
Magnum Noel
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"Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out."

Hey what a brillient idea
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:03 AM   #70750
Taikimoto
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Weaverville, NC
Oddometer: 45
I have the procycle brake light / license plate kit and was wondering if anyone else has had problems with the brake light element going on in the brake bulb. The running light element is fine, but the brake light element burns out often, is it a wiring issue or just crappy bulbs? I replace it with the stock # bulbs.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:08 AM   #70751
Skidmarkart
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Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
Oddometer: 198
I am going to pull my BST40 carb and clean it, and hopefully do some mild mods to make it work a little better. Is the Procycle kit the way to go? I think I have seen a couple of others (like Moose) but they seem to be more tilted toward a stock rebuild or freshen-up.

TIA for any info.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:20 AM   #70752
disconnected
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howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

Thanks,


Greg
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:26 AM   #70753
acap650
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

Thanks,


Greg
I've been looking at this one for the same reason. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692098
Waterproof but not very bright so needs to be mounted in shaded area. I just ordered one and plan to mount it on top of indicator light pod where it will be somewhat shaded by headlight fairing. Will post pic when I get it.
Yo Greg, where you at? I'm in Verona.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:40 AM   #70754
victor441
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

Thanks,


Greg
I like the LED type, it gives plenty of info, am running this one and especially like that it dims to half brightness when it is in a steady state for a minute or so but goes to full brightness if there is a change...$28

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Old 11-06-2012, 08:46 AM   #70755
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
INow ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I first use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it.
Good advice but if you don't have the luxury of an air hose or good wash, it helps if you loosen the spark plug a few turns then turn the engine over with the starter for 20 seconds or so. The air leaking around the spark plug helps to dislodge and blow away sand and other harmful particles.

Repeating the process a couple of times as you take the plugs out is even better.
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