ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-05-2012, 01:34 PM   #70741
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,695
Welcome to the site.

Grains of sand can be extremely hard, are ya feelin' lucky?

Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out.
__________________
2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 01:42 PM
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 02:03 PM   #70742
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by felixblack1 View Post
what do you set the MSC at in the sand? i found the steering damper great at high speed gravel roads but when I hit the sand it stuffed my riding and I ended up turning it off.
Mines the Titan model. I've found that I'm happy enough with it set to Motocross and 5 for all normal riding, and I just change the damping mode to Desert for sand. Too much damping and you don't seem to get enough feedback and it gets harder to keep in line.

The only time I've had Big Berg in the desert and heavy sand in places on a 4 day ride at Murray Sunset, I ended up leaving the Scotts at my normal bush/enduro settings too. Stiffening it up just dulled the feedback and made it harder to ride.

Bikes will self correct to an extent, but if the damping is too tight, they won't in my experience.
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 02:04 PM   #70743
Burnt Toast
Slingshot: engaged.
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Greensboro, NC
Oddometer: 210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
So I replaced a rear fender this weekend, all seemed to be pretty straightforwad. The only way I saw to get the light off was to cut the 3 lines and then re-attach. I did that and have checked and rechecked to make sure they have a good connection and are paired correctly. They are, but now my taillight and rear signals aren't working. I didnt even touch the lines to the signals. Any ideas on where I screwed the pooch here?

You may have shorted them out when you cut them. Check for a blown fuse. Take more time when doing this stuff. If you follow those wires just a little ways, you'd see connectors around the mid-seat area...detach and thread though!

If all still looks good...check all connections again! Electrical problems suck, my vote is to create as few as possible.
Burnt Toast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 02:16 PM   #70744
JagLite
Studly Adventurer
 
JagLite's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 924
Eh? 13 tooth sprocket

Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Bought lowering links from ProCycle and the holes were just about 1/2 inch closer than the ones I have on. Switched them out and noticed no difference. The ones I had on said E32 on them, do not know if they are stock. Any Ideas?
Also bought a 520 13 tooth front to run with stock chain. Many people said no problem. The part that screws into sprocket
has only has 2 holes for bolts into sprocket where as my other one, ProCycle, has 3. 2 bolts OK?

Heirhead

Not very good at riding bikes and worse working on them!!!!!!!!!
I am guessing you didn't get the 13 tooth sprocket from ProCycle.
I got mine from them and it came WITH the new 2 hole retainer.
I believe it is a Yamaha part (?)
If you call PC and are real nice, they may tell you the retainer part number so you can go to your local Yammy dealer and get one.
Or order one, or you could send PC a few dollars and ask them to drop one in the mail to you.

BTW the stock retainer will work with a 14 tooth if it is slightly ground down to decrease the outside diameter.
The 13 tooth requires a new retainer, or as was mentioned, c-clips in the retainer groove.

520 sprockets will work fine with 525 chain.
"Might" wear the chain out a tiny bit faster but I doubt enough difference to notice compared to how important chain (lack of) tension adjusting and cleaning/oiling make.
Too tight is BAD-BAD-BAD! Too loose not so much.

If the lowering link holes are closer together than the ones you removed, the bike is now lower in the rear.
Period.
UNLESS, you increased the preload on the shock and raised the back end up.
Did you change anything else when you installed the links?
__________________
Attitude ~
The difference between
Ordeal and Adventure
James
JagLite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #70745
felixblack1
Gnarly Adventurer
 
felixblack1's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Australia, Sunshine Coast
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Mines the Titan model. I've found that I'm happy enough with it set to Motocross and 5 for all normal riding, and I just change the damping mode to Desert for sand. Too much damping and you don't seem to get enough feedback and it gets harder to keep in line.

The only time I've had Big Berg in the desert and heavy sand in places on a 4 day ride at Murray Sunset, I ended up leaving the Scotts at my normal bush/enduro settings too. Stiffening it up just dulled the feedback and made it harder to ride.

Bikes will self correct to an extent, but if the damping is too tight, they won't in my experience.
thanks BergDonk. sounds exactly why i was having a problem. lack of feedback and had a hard time keeping to the wheel tracks.
felixblack1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 03:42 PM   #70746
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by felixblack1 View Post
thanks BergDonk. sounds exactly why i was having a problem. lack of feedback and had a hard time keeping to the wheel tracks.
I suppose on further reflection, if you don't have any stability issues, and DR650s don't normally, IMHO dampers don't really help in heavy sand. OK in light sand, especially if its not too rutted, but helpful on harder terrain with rocks and ruts. YMMV
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 04:00 PM   #70747
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 557
I think you have the backwards? Shorter links should raise the seat height, longer links will lower the seat height.

TravelGuy

If the lowering link holes are closer together than the ones you removed, the bike is now lower in the rear.
Period.
UNLESS, you increased the preload on the shock and raised the back end up.
Did you change anything else when you installed the links?[/QUOTE]
__________________
TRAVELGUY
DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
.
TRAVELGUY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 05:15 PM   #70748
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,064
Quote:
Originally Posted by quick'n'dirty View Post
hi, i was hopeing you guys could help me out. i was checking my sparkplugs when a small amount of dirt fell into the combustion chamber and the dirt from around that area seemed a bit sandy too. will this destroy the engine or will it just blow out of there ? 2012 dr 650. thanks for your time
Best to take it apart and clean.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #70749
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by dickensheets View Post
+1 Don't give up on stock carb. It works FINE for 99% of us.
Yes, it does work fine.

But the pumpers are even better.
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 05:56 PM   #70750
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,695
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
think you have the backwards? Shorter links should raise the seat height, longer links will lower the seat height.

TravelGuy
Ding, the light goes on. TravelGuy nailed it. I knew if we talked long enough, someone would figure it out.

Heirhead:

Shorter links won't work in the DR, there will be interference at the red circle. (BergDonk's photo) Look at your bike, good chance yours is hitting.
To lower the bike, you want longer arms.

BergDonk said this in the linked post:
"And results in about 2 mm clearance, although not real obvious in the pic. The shock will extend further too when it tops out, about 2 mm according to Frank, so a bit of clearance is good. It's also why shorter link arms aren't really a solution to getting the ride height up. "

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=54

__________________
2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 06:04 PM
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 06:08 PM   #70751
Chill
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I notice you have fitted the aftermarket choke. I tried the same one, problem was the throttle lobes (where cables attach) hit the choke. I know some have modified the choke mechanism to avoid this. I just stayed with stock choke ... new after market one sits in my "DR Box" unused.

Any easy fixes on this?
I fitted one of these and just had to file off the top of the "stop" I can see from the photos that the OP has also done this. It only hits at full throttle.

Could you expand on your pumper carb comments, why you were not impressed? I'm still toying with the idea so I'm just curious.
Chill is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 06:54 PM   #70752
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,058
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil View Post
How long ago was that ? I would like to have a look at the chart. Last time I had my shock out I was moving the swingarm through its travel and it looked like the linkage point where the shock bolts on starts to travel more horizontal than vertical near the end of its travel but this can only be determined by accurately plotting it's travel. This would have a detrimental effect on the suspension performance. I was thinking of of making some clamps up for my digital calipers so I could bolt them in the position of the shock to measure things.
Here's a link
http://drriders.com/topic4964.html
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 08:57 PM   #70753
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Welcome to the site.

Grains of sand can be extremely hard, are ya feelin' lucky?

Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out.
I did the same thing. I first used a tiny telescoping magnet. That got a bit of it out ... then put a dab of grease on the end and got a few more chunks from inside.
And finally, squirted some oil down in there. I figure if whatever is in there is coated in oil ... maybe it won't do much damage? Anyway, fired her up ... and never thought about it again. That was about 25,000 miles back.

Now ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I first use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it. Put in your new plugs and be done ... and DON't over tighten them!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 09:05 PM
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 09:07 PM   #70754
joefromsf
Dark Happens
 
joefromsf's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 1,429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I did the same thing. I first used a tiny telescoping magnet. That got a bit of it out ... then put a dab of grease on the end and got a few more chunks.
And finally, squirted some oil down in there. I figure if whatever is in there coated in oil ... maybe it won't do much damage? Anyway, fired here up ... and never thought about it again. That was about 25,000 miles back.

Now ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it. Put in your new plugs and be done ... and DON't over tighten them!
For on the road access I keep a drinking straw in my toolkit for blowing out the dirt and crud before removing spark plug. Also poke around with something to break up mud and dirt clumps. Be sure to close your eyes while doing blowing it out. DAMHIK.
__________________
--Joe .................................... http://joefromsf.smugmug.com/

We can't crash an infinite amount of times, so you better learn from every one! (by ARZ)

joefromsf screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 09:08 PM Reason: clarification
joefromsf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 09:12 PM   #70755
Chill
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 184
Same. I tend to blow it out with a can of compressed air, then loosen the plug half a turn and blow again, gets loads more out.
Chill is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014