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Old 11-10-2012, 10:30 AM   #70876
bradrh
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tubeless

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The main advantage is you can repair a simple puncture with a plug. But to be prepared for a damaged rim or tire damage that won't hold a plug you would really want a tube as backup.
On mtn bikes the main advantage is being able to run lower pressures without pinch flatting. Does that not hold for a motorcycle too?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:22 AM   #70877
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I thought the front and back wheel off the pre-96's needed a lot of spacer work, rotor pattern work before they could be used on post 96's?



Quote:
Originally Posted by B.E. Coyote View Post
will a 93 dr350 front wheel fit a dr650? I know the back is compatible.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:31 AM   #70878
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Road riders don't need to worry too much about damaging their rims, damaging the rim seal area. But offroad riders do fairly often.
I once got a flat during an enduro race; 50 miles later I finished the race on the same flat tyre, then rode another 20 miles of slab in order to get home.

I fixed the flat at home, using the same rim and tyre -- both undamaged.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #70879
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I want to run tubeless for quick roadside repair if necessary. Dirt riding I have never pinched a tube but I understand that most riders feel that low tire pressure increases the chance of tube pinch. When I was competing in enduro's and hareschabbles sometimes I ran as little a 5 lbs in the rear and 7 or 8 in the front in serious mud conditions. That was on bikes of a little over 200 lbs. I feel sure that with my Safari tank and travel luggage my DR650 will be well over 400 lbs, probably 475ish. So that can be a entirely different circumstance. I plan to run 25 lbs in the front and 30 rear. Hopefully will not ride much mud this trip.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
On mtn bikes the main advantage is being able to run lower pressures without pinch flatting. Does that not hold for a motorcycle too?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:41 AM   #70880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I thought the front and back wheel off the pre-96's needed a lot of spacer work, rotor pattern work before they could be used on post 96's?

I don't think there is that much involved with the rear. I little fudging with the rotor is all from what I can find out.

I have not found anything out about the front, but I just came home with a pair of dr350 wheels so I will find out soon.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:48 AM   #70881
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Nice! Let us know how it goes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by B.E. Coyote View Post
I don't think there is that much involved with the rear. I little fudging with the rotor is all from what I can find out.

I have not found anything out about the front, but I just came home with a pair of dr350 wheels so I will find out soon.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:50 AM   #70882
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
On mtn bikes the main advantage is being able to run lower pressures without pinch flatting. Does that not hold for a motorcycle too?
That's true of the 'Tubliss" system. You can run down to the 4-5 psi range on a trail bike.
The Tubliss insert holds the tire to the beads even if the tire is flat.
Just sealing up all the spoke holes doesn't help for running lower pressure.
Running lower pressure makes it easier to unseat a tire bead and have an instant flat.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:03 PM   #70883
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Too many miles?

I'm starting to look for my first dual sport and have found a 2006 with 18,000 miles for sale. How may miles is "too many"? Also, are there any known issues I should look out for? Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:07 PM   #70884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98stage2 View Post
I'm starting to look for my first dual sport and have found a 2006 with 18,000 miles for sale. How may miles is "too many"? Also, are there any known issues I should look out for? Thanks!
FWIW, I have put 25K miles on the 06 I bought new. I ride it very hard both on and off road. It still runs very well. The only problems I have had were a dead ignition stator (around 15K), an oil leak at the cam chain tensioner (around 17K), and a loose float assembly in the carb due to orings (around 1K) fixed under warranty. I hope to get another 25K before it is toast, although if the engine does wear out, it would give me an excuse to rebuild it with a big bore kit.

As I think back to my experience with tires, tubes and flats, I ran MT21s or a MT21/D606 combo with heavy duty tubes for most of the first 20K and did not have even one flat tire. This included running tire pressures as low as 12 PSI and hitting rocks hard enough to bend the rims several times. I tried a set of lighter duty IRC GP1 tires for the last 2K and had flats on both the front (pinch flat) and the rear (unknown reason). I'm back on the MT21s now.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:53 PM   #70885
felixblack1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
Felix, have you already dialed in your suspension?
I'm just getting acquainted with my DR and encountered some near spiritual high speed wobble on gravel. Definite wake up and get it right or slow down call. Made me think about a steering damper but then thinking more says get the spring rates and dampening right, front and rear, before fiddling with the steering. I haven't made the changes yet but will be installing heavier springs and emulators at the front and an Ohlins with heavier spring at rear. After working that out I'll evaluate need for steering damper. Dollar and overall performance return should be far greater following this sequence.
I'm running Racetech shock shaft assemply with 8.1kg spring at the back and Emulators and 0.5 straight rate springs at the front. That was setup for a fairly heavy load. I've never really fine tuned it though. Yeh, not a good idea to buy a steering damper to tune out speed wobbles. you need to work on suspension. I'm no suspension expert so I can't help you with waht you need. Plenty of helpful people on here and plenty of info already posted on here. I ordered all my suspension through Procycle and found there website helpful.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:50 PM   #70886
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMightyQuinn View Post
FWIW, I have put 25K miles on the 06 I bought new. I ride it very hard both on and off road. It still runs very well. The only problems I have had were a dead ignition stator (around 15K), an oil leak at the cam chain tensioner (around 17K), and a loose float assembly in the carb due to orings (around 1K) fixed under warranty. I hope to get another 25K before it is toast, although if the engine does wear out, it would give me an excuse to rebuild it with a big bore kit.

As I think back to my experience with tires, tubes and flats, I ran MT21s or a MT21/D606 combo with heavy duty tubes for most of the first 20K and did not have even one flat tire. This included running tire pressures as low as 12 PSI and hitting rocks hard enough to bend the rims several times. I tried a set of lighter duty IRC GP1 tires for the last 2K and had flats on both the front (pinch flat) and the rear (unknown reason). I'm back on the MT21s now.
I like a thicker tougher rubber compound whether its the tire or the tube....I'll deal with a little extra weight to have tires that can take a hit and not strand me 100 miles out in bfe with no cell coverage. I carry slime and a 12 volt compressor I can plug into the bike, but I still don't want no stinkin' flats
Thanks for the feedback on the IRC's
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:01 PM   #70887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I like a thicker tougher rubber compound whether its the tire or the tube....I'll deal with a little extra weight to have tires that can take a hit and not strand me 100 miles out in bfe with no cell coverage. I carry slime and a 12 volt compressor I can plug into the bike, but I still don't want no stinkin' flats
Thanks for the feedback on the IRC's
Most times Slime won't help once you've got a flat ... especially so with a Tube. Works better on tubeless tires.

The IDEA of Slime and Ride-On ... is to put it in the tube BEFORE you get a flat. Slime can plug very small holes (cactus spines, small staples, nails and thorns) most times bigger things will flat the tire, Slime or not. Ride-On is said to be a more effective product. (I've only used Slime)

Lots of times a nail tears up the tube before you notice you've got a flat. Not usually repairable if torn.
Most times Slime will slow down a leak, but not stop it. Putting it in after the fact may not work at all, or only with a very small puncture.

If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 11-10-2012 at 05:07 PM
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:33 PM   #70888
TRAVELGUY
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+1

What did people do before Zip ties and Duct tape? DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THEM!!!!




If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends. [/QUOTE]
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:39 PM   #70889
poppawheelie
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Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That's true of the 'Tubliss" system. You can run down to the 4-5 psi range on a trail bike.
The Tubliss insert holds the tire to the beads even if the tire is flat.
Just sealing up all the spoke holes doesn't help for running lower pressure.
Running lower pressure makes it easier to unseat a tire bead and have an instant flat.
When is "Tubliss" going to nake a system for 17 inch wheels!?!? *^%^*$#@&!
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:40 PM   #70890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post

+1

What did people do before Zip ties and Duct tape? DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THEM!!!!




If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends.
[/QUOTE]

Plus the bead will be broken ! Lol
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