ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-10-2012, 02:07 PM   #70876
TheMightyQuinn
Adventurer
 
TheMightyQuinn's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Lakewood, CO
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98stage2 View Post
I'm starting to look for my first dual sport and have found a 2006 with 18,000 miles for sale. How may miles is "too many"? Also, are there any known issues I should look out for? Thanks!
FWIW, I have put 25K miles on the 06 I bought new. I ride it very hard both on and off road. It still runs very well. The only problems I have had were a dead ignition stator (around 15K), an oil leak at the cam chain tensioner (around 17K), and a loose float assembly in the carb due to orings (around 1K) fixed under warranty. I hope to get another 25K before it is toast, although if the engine does wear out, it would give me an excuse to rebuild it with a big bore kit.

As I think back to my experience with tires, tubes and flats, I ran MT21s or a MT21/D606 combo with heavy duty tubes for most of the first 20K and did not have even one flat tire. This included running tire pressures as low as 12 PSI and hitting rocks hard enough to bend the rims several times. I tried a set of lighter duty IRC GP1 tires for the last 2K and had flats on both the front (pinch flat) and the rear (unknown reason). I'm back on the MT21s now.
__________________
There can be only one
TheMightyQuinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #70877
felixblack1
Gnarly Adventurer
 
felixblack1's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Australia, Sunshine Coast
Oddometer: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
Felix, have you already dialed in your suspension?
I'm just getting acquainted with my DR and encountered some near spiritual high speed wobble on gravel. Definite wake up and get it right or slow down call. Made me think about a steering damper but then thinking more says get the spring rates and dampening right, front and rear, before fiddling with the steering. I haven't made the changes yet but will be installing heavier springs and emulators at the front and an Ohlins with heavier spring at rear. After working that out I'll evaluate need for steering damper. Dollar and overall performance return should be far greater following this sequence.
I'm running Racetech shock shaft assemply with 8.1kg spring at the back and Emulators and 0.5 straight rate springs at the front. That was setup for a fairly heavy load. I've never really fine tuned it though. Yeh, not a good idea to buy a steering damper to tune out speed wobbles. you need to work on suspension. I'm no suspension expert so I can't help you with waht you need. Plenty of helpful people on here and plenty of info already posted on here. I ordered all my suspension through Procycle and found there website helpful.
felixblack1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 05:50 PM   #70878
Sierra Thumper
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMightyQuinn View Post
FWIW, I have put 25K miles on the 06 I bought new. I ride it very hard both on and off road. It still runs very well. The only problems I have had were a dead ignition stator (around 15K), an oil leak at the cam chain tensioner (around 17K), and a loose float assembly in the carb due to orings (around 1K) fixed under warranty. I hope to get another 25K before it is toast, although if the engine does wear out, it would give me an excuse to rebuild it with a big bore kit.

As I think back to my experience with tires, tubes and flats, I ran MT21s or a MT21/D606 combo with heavy duty tubes for most of the first 20K and did not have even one flat tire. This included running tire pressures as low as 12 PSI and hitting rocks hard enough to bend the rims several times. I tried a set of lighter duty IRC GP1 tires for the last 2K and had flats on both the front (pinch flat) and the rear (unknown reason). I'm back on the MT21s now.
I like a thicker tougher rubber compound whether its the tire or the tube....I'll deal with a little extra weight to have tires that can take a hit and not strand me 100 miles out in bfe with no cell coverage. I carry slime and a 12 volt compressor I can plug into the bike, but I still don't want no stinkin' flats
Thanks for the feedback on the IRC's
__________________
"Don't get so concerned with the slab that you choose a turd for the dirt"- The Gospel as spoken by itrack
Sierra Thumper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 06:01 PM   #70879
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I like a thicker tougher rubber compound whether its the tire or the tube....I'll deal with a little extra weight to have tires that can take a hit and not strand me 100 miles out in bfe with no cell coverage. I carry slime and a 12 volt compressor I can plug into the bike, but I still don't want no stinkin' flats
Thanks for the feedback on the IRC's
Most times Slime won't help once you've got a flat ... especially so with a Tube. Works better on tubeless tires.

The IDEA of Slime and Ride-On ... is to put it in the tube BEFORE you get a flat. Slime can plug very small holes (cactus spines, small staples, nails and thorns) most times bigger things will flat the tire, Slime or not. Ride-On is said to be a more effective product. (I've only used Slime)

Lots of times a nail tears up the tube before you notice you've got a flat. Not usually repairable if torn.
Most times Slime will slow down a leak, but not stop it. Putting it in after the fact may not work at all, or only with a very small puncture.

If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 11-10-2012 at 06:07 PM
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 06:33 PM   #70880
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 615

+1

What did people do before Zip ties and Duct tape? DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THEM!!!!




If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends. [/QUOTE]
__________________
TRAVELGUY
DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
.
TRAVELGUY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 06:39 PM   #70881
poppawheelie
Studly Adventurer
 
poppawheelie's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 543
Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That's true of the 'Tubliss" system. You can run down to the 4-5 psi range on a trail bike.
The Tubliss insert holds the tire to the beads even if the tire is flat.
Just sealing up all the spoke holes doesn't help for running lower pressure.
Running lower pressure makes it easier to unseat a tire bead and have an instant flat.
When is "Tubliss" going to nake a system for 17 inch wheels!?!? *^%^*$#@&!
__________________
"To me the trail is calling! The old trail - the trail that is always new." Matthew Alexander Henson

"It's not the destination. It's the journey." Me
poppawheelie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 06:40 PM   #70882
DockingPilot
Hooked Up and Hard Over
 
DockingPilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
Oddometer: 9,323
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post

+1

What did people do before Zip ties and Duct tape? DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THEM!!!!




If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends.
[/QUOTE]

Plus the bead will be broken ! Lol
__________________
Frank Reinbold

"Every bike I ever had, was the best bike I ever had, when I had it"
DockingPilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 07:21 PM   #70883
lamotovita
Ageing Adventurer
 
lamotovita's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: WA/AZ, USA
Oddometer: 1,417
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
When is "Tubliss" going to nake a system for 17 inch wheels!?!? *^%^*$#@&!
I ask instead, when will the manufacturers put tubeless wheels on their bikes?
__________________
Beaten paths are for beaten men.
lamotovita is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 08:12 PM   #70884
planemanx15
Beastly Adventurer
 
planemanx15's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 1,009
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Grifter here is how I did it. Used wire brush to clean nipple area, Dremel and drill power.


Did try sumbug a couple of years ago and could not get it to work for me. Was living in Costa Rica at that time and had better things to do then play with computer. Now back in the states so may try again before my Mexico trip this coming January. Hopefully the rim sealing will work on this trip because many friends during rides in Mex have found nails and screws, may be my turn this trip. 25000+ miles moto travel in Central America the in last few years, no problems and wonderful people live there. This trip going to Copper Canyon the ferry over to La Paz and ride Baja to the north. Not sure where after that but plan to be there for a month at least. As you may see I got the bugs out of PhotoBug this afternoon.

TravelGuy
Thanks for the info travelguy. When I get my new rear rim from warp9 I'm going to do this. I figure there is no better time than when its fresh off the balancing stand and clean as can be. If the rear works out, Ill do my front (19x2.15 from warp 9).

Unless the tire blows out, I don't think this method will ever have a quick release of air like a tube could during on-road riding. Just a slow steady leak.
__________________
2000 Suzuki DR650-790 - 790cc Big bore build thread
1985 Yamaha CA50 - The little scooter that Could
2009 Piaggio BV-250 - Escusi, Babba be bo-bee
planemanx15 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #70885
poppawheelie
Studly Adventurer
 
poppawheelie's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 543
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
I ask instead, when will the manufacturers put tubeless wheels on their bikes?
They do - BMW, Yamaha (Tenere), and Trumph (I think). All spoked, tubeless wheels.
__________________
"To me the trail is calling! The old trail - the trail that is always new." Matthew Alexander Henson

"It's not the destination. It's the journey." Me
poppawheelie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 08:44 PM   #70886
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,235
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
They do - BMW, Yamaha (Tenere), and Trumph (I think). All spoked, tubeless wheels.
Here's the Yamaha Super Tenere tubeless front wheel.

__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
Emmbeedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 09:42 PM   #70887
shu
...
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 985
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Most times Slime won't help once you've got a flat ... especially so with a Tube.
I know if I'd had some Slime, I coulda just kept riding.

................shu

shu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 09:57 PM   #70888
JagLite
Beastly Adventurer
 
JagLite's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,043
Eh? Shocking difference!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
So... for the cost-conscious... is the ProCycle Rear Shock Solution kit (basically a gold valve and a spring) going to be that much worse than sending the shock off to Cogent? Seems to me if you get the valving right it oughta be pretty darn good, yes? $279 vs $500-something is a pretty big difference. Especially since I need to do the rear shock on my KLX250S as well.

Rob
You aren't comparing similar products there. The apple vs. orange situation.

I am looking at doing ths PC shock solution kit for my Street Tracker DR as it is much less money.
I have the full Cogent shock rebuild on my other DR.

When you send your shock to Rick at Cogent he rebuilds everything with new parts so that the only thing from the original shock is the aluminum body. And many of us pay the extra $$$ to have the body coated although that is not required. What you get back is a totally different shock that just looks like the original, sort of. And he does the work.

On the other hand, with the PC rebuild kit for $279 you get a new spring, a gold valve, and the oil. No new seal head, no new bottoming cushion, and still no rebound damping adjustment. You can get a new seal head from PC for $38, and a new bumper for $25 and still not have rebound adjustment, and YOU get to do the rebuild and have a shop fill it with nitrogen.

To compare with Cogent's shock you should be looking at the ProCycle "Shock Shaft Assembly" for $498.
That is very similar to a Cogent shock with all new parts, but YOU still get to do the rebuild.
So, looking at equals you see that a Cogent shock is less expensive, is ready to install, and is a completely new shock.

I am considering doing the less expensive rebuild myself for the fun of doing it.
My bottoming cushion is OK to reuse but I am going to add the seal head to the package since I am sure it will be shot.
Still, the price is $279 +$38 = $317.
And I will still have to do the work, not have rebound adjustment, and have to get it gas charged.

Hmmmmm, maybe I will send this one to Rick at Cogent after all...
__________________
Attitude ~
The difference between
Ordeal and Adventure
James
JagLite is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 02:33 AM   #70889
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,033
Thanks for the clarification. I did mine before PC had the rebound adjustment available. I don't know if it was PC or Racetech that offered it, but they'd do the rebuild for $100 a while back.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 05:10 AM   #70890
mrprez
KJ4WMZ
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, Al
Oddometer: 1,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
You aren't comparing similar products there. The apple vs. orange situation.

I am looking at doing ths PC shock solution kit for my Street Tracker DR as it is much less money.
I have the full Cogent shock rebuild on my other DR.

When you send your shock to Rick at Cogent he rebuilds everything with new parts so that the only thing from the original shock is the aluminum body. And many of us pay the extra $$$ to have the body coated although that is not required. What you get back is a totally different shock that just looks like the original, sort of. And he does the work.

On the other hand, with the PC rebuild kit for $279 you get a new spring, a gold valve, and the oil. No new seal head, no new bottoming cushion, and still no rebound damping adjustment. You can get a new seal head from PC for $38, and a new bumper for $25 and still not have rebound adjustment, and YOU get to do the rebuild and have a shop fill it with nitrogen.

To compare with Cogent's shock you should be looking at the ProCycle "Shock Shaft Assembly" for $498.
That is very similar to a Cogent shock with all new parts, but YOU still get to do the rebuild.
So, looking at equals you see that a Cogent shock is less expensive, is ready to install, and is a completely new shock.

I am considering doing the less expensive rebuild myself for the fun of doing it.
My bottoming cushion is OK to reuse but I am going to add the seal head to the package since I am sure it will be shot.
Still, the price is $279 +$38 = $317.
And I will still have to do the work, not have rebound adjustment, and have to get it gas charged.

Hmmmmm, maybe I will send this one to Rick at Cogent after all...
I just finished doing one of these and mine came with a new bottoming cushion. It wasn't all that much work either. Remove the shock which you will have to do either way. DIscharge the bladder, remove the spring, remove two clips, drain the oil and remove all the old parts. Clean it up, fill with oil and reinstall new parts. All together took me about 2 hours to do including removing the shock from the bike. I still have to get it charged but will get that done tomorrow.

__________________
Sent via morse code
..-. -.-- ..-. ..-.

mrprez screwed with this post 11-11-2012 at 05:15 AM
mrprez is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 02:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014