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Old 11-10-2012, 05:39 PM   #70906
poppawheelie
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Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That's true of the 'Tubliss" system. You can run down to the 4-5 psi range on a trail bike.
The Tubliss insert holds the tire to the beads even if the tire is flat.
Just sealing up all the spoke holes doesn't help for running lower pressure.
Running lower pressure makes it easier to unseat a tire bead and have an instant flat.
When is "Tubliss" going to nake a system for 17 inch wheels!?!? *^%^*$#@&!
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:40 PM   #70907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post

+1

What did people do before Zip ties and Duct tape? DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THEM!!!!




If you really are in the boonies ... and at risk of exposure ... man, keep riding. Riding on a flat is not that hard. If you go easy, your tire should stay on the rim, depending what you're running. Some use those HUGE Zip ties to keep tire on rim. Get back to safety ... then fix the flat ... with a beer and help from friends.
[/QUOTE]

Plus the bead will be broken ! Lol
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:21 PM   #70908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
When is "Tubliss" going to nake a system for 17 inch wheels!?!? *^%^*$#@&!
I ask instead, when will the manufacturers put tubeless wheels on their bikes?
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:12 PM   #70909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Grifter here is how I did it. Used wire brush to clean nipple area, Dremel and drill power.


Did try sumbug a couple of years ago and could not get it to work for me. Was living in Costa Rica at that time and had better things to do then play with computer. Now back in the states so may try again before my Mexico trip this coming January. Hopefully the rim sealing will work on this trip because many friends during rides in Mex have found nails and screws, may be my turn this trip. 25000+ miles moto travel in Central America the in last few years, no problems and wonderful people live there. This trip going to Copper Canyon the ferry over to La Paz and ride Baja to the north. Not sure where after that but plan to be there for a month at least. As you may see I got the bugs out of PhotoBug this afternoon.

TravelGuy
Thanks for the info travelguy. When I get my new rear rim from warp9 I'm going to do this. I figure there is no better time than when its fresh off the balancing stand and clean as can be. If the rear works out, Ill do my front (19x2.15 from warp 9).

Unless the tire blows out, I don't think this method will ever have a quick release of air like a tube could during on-road riding. Just a slow steady leak.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:21 PM   #70910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
I ask instead, when will the manufacturers put tubeless wheels on their bikes?
They do - BMW, Yamaha (Tenere), and Trumph (I think). All spoked, tubeless wheels.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:44 PM   #70911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
They do - BMW, Yamaha (Tenere), and Trumph (I think). All spoked, tubeless wheels.
Here's the Yamaha Super Tenere tubeless front wheel.

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Old 11-10-2012, 08:42 PM   #70912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Most times Slime won't help once you've got a flat ... especially so with a Tube.
I know if I'd had some Slime, I coulda just kept riding.

................shu

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Old 11-10-2012, 08:57 PM   #70913
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Eh? Shocking difference!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
So... for the cost-conscious... is the ProCycle Rear Shock Solution kit (basically a gold valve and a spring) going to be that much worse than sending the shock off to Cogent? Seems to me if you get the valving right it oughta be pretty darn good, yes? $279 vs $500-something is a pretty big difference. Especially since I need to do the rear shock on my KLX250S as well.

Rob
You aren't comparing similar products there. The apple vs. orange situation.

I am looking at doing ths PC shock solution kit for my Street Tracker DR as it is much less money.
I have the full Cogent shock rebuild on my other DR.

When you send your shock to Rick at Cogent he rebuilds everything with new parts so that the only thing from the original shock is the aluminum body. And many of us pay the extra $$$ to have the body coated although that is not required. What you get back is a totally different shock that just looks like the original, sort of. And he does the work.

On the other hand, with the PC rebuild kit for $279 you get a new spring, a gold valve, and the oil. No new seal head, no new bottoming cushion, and still no rebound damping adjustment. You can get a new seal head from PC for $38, and a new bumper for $25 and still not have rebound adjustment, and YOU get to do the rebuild and have a shop fill it with nitrogen.

To compare with Cogent's shock you should be looking at the ProCycle "Shock Shaft Assembly" for $498.
That is very similar to a Cogent shock with all new parts, but YOU still get to do the rebuild.
So, looking at equals you see that a Cogent shock is less expensive, is ready to install, and is a completely new shock.

I am considering doing the less expensive rebuild myself for the fun of doing it.
My bottoming cushion is OK to reuse but I am going to add the seal head to the package since I am sure it will be shot.
Still, the price is $279 +$38 = $317.
And I will still have to do the work, not have rebound adjustment, and have to get it gas charged.

Hmmmmm, maybe I will send this one to Rick at Cogent after all...
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:33 AM   #70914
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Thanks for the clarification. I did mine before PC had the rebound adjustment available. I don't know if it was PC or Racetech that offered it, but they'd do the rebuild for $100 a while back.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:10 AM   #70915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
You aren't comparing similar products there. The apple vs. orange situation.

I am looking at doing ths PC shock solution kit for my Street Tracker DR as it is much less money.
I have the full Cogent shock rebuild on my other DR.

When you send your shock to Rick at Cogent he rebuilds everything with new parts so that the only thing from the original shock is the aluminum body. And many of us pay the extra $$$ to have the body coated although that is not required. What you get back is a totally different shock that just looks like the original, sort of. And he does the work.

On the other hand, with the PC rebuild kit for $279 you get a new spring, a gold valve, and the oil. No new seal head, no new bottoming cushion, and still no rebound damping adjustment. You can get a new seal head from PC for $38, and a new bumper for $25 and still not have rebound adjustment, and YOU get to do the rebuild and have a shop fill it with nitrogen.

To compare with Cogent's shock you should be looking at the ProCycle "Shock Shaft Assembly" for $498.
That is very similar to a Cogent shock with all new parts, but YOU still get to do the rebuild.
So, looking at equals you see that a Cogent shock is less expensive, is ready to install, and is a completely new shock.

I am considering doing the less expensive rebuild myself for the fun of doing it.
My bottoming cushion is OK to reuse but I am going to add the seal head to the package since I am sure it will be shot.
Still, the price is $279 +$38 = $317.
And I will still have to do the work, not have rebound adjustment, and have to get it gas charged.

Hmmmmm, maybe I will send this one to Rick at Cogent after all...
I just finished doing one of these and mine came with a new bottoming cushion. It wasn't all that much work either. Remove the shock which you will have to do either way. DIscharge the bladder, remove the spring, remove two clips, drain the oil and remove all the old parts. Clean it up, fill with oil and reinstall new parts. All together took me about 2 hours to do including removing the shock from the bike. I still have to get it charged but will get that done tomorrow.

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Old 11-11-2012, 06:16 AM   #70916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
When is "Tubliss" going to nake a system for 17 inch wheels!?!? *^%^*$#@&!
You can still go ahead and get the front Tubliss set up, Myself, most of my flats have been pinch flats up front with tubes. Since switching over to the Tubliss set up on my KTM 450 I've only had one flat in 3.5 years and I actually rode 70 miles at 60 MPH back home to fix it. Got a front setup I plan on putting on my DR when I change the tire.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:17 AM   #70917
Rusty Rocket
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A friend bought a used KTM 400 with a Tubliss set up, front and rear. The problem with it, is that you have to air up every time you go riding. The 100 psi sealing ring leaks down after a day or so. Try finding a 100psi hose on an adventure camping ride. It's really for offroad competition IMO, to prevent tubes getting pinch flats in a race.

He took them off the bike in less than a month.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:32 AM   #70918
Rob.G
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Thanks for the info on the Cogent vs PC shock. I'll go with Cogent. I'm going to send him my fork tubes too and have him do the work to them as well. Figure if the bike is gonna be down for a few weeks, might as well have both ends done.

Rob
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:39 AM   #70919
JagLite
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Thumb Shocking!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
I just finished doing one of these and mine came with a new bottoming cushion. It wasn't all that much work either. Remove the shock which you will have to do either way. DIscharge the bladder, remove the spring, remove two clips, drain the oil and remove all the old parts. Clean it up, fill with oil and reinstall new parts. All together took me about 2 hours to do including removing the shock from the bike. I still have to get it charged but will get that done tomorrow.

That is good news.
Interesting that PC doesn't list the new cushion rubber as part of the "solution".
You reused your seal head I am guessing.
I certainly like the price.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:51 AM   #70920
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More shocking news

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Thanks for the info on the Cogent vs PC shock. I'll go with Cogent. I'm going to send him my fork tubes too and have him do the work to them as well. Figure if the bike is gonna be down for a few weeks, might as well have both ends done.

Rob
I am sure you will be glad you did.
I am always trying to save money but sometimes (too often) I end up paying twice.
Once for my cheap fix and then again for the correct fix.

Which reminds me, I am searching for a BSA B50 rear wheel if anyone has one....
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