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Old 11-11-2012, 09:22 AM   #70921
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
That is good news.
Interesting that PC doesn't list the new cushion rubber as part of the "solution".
You reused your seal head I am guessing.
I certainly like the price.
We don't include it because not everyone will need one. If the shock is only a couple years old or less the bumper and seal head are probably perfectly fine. Riders with older shocks can add the seal head and bumper if they need them.

The photo above is the shaft assembly. You can see the rebound adjustment knob at the bottom. It does come with a new bumper.
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procycle screwed with this post 11-11-2012 at 09:32 AM
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:46 AM   #70922
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
...
To compare with Cogent's shock you should be looking at the ProCycle "Shock Shaft Assembly" for $498.
That is very similar to a Cogent shock with all new parts, but YOU still get to do the rebuild.
So, looking at equals you see that a Cogent shock is less expensive, is ready to install, and is a completely new shock.
...
I thought the shaft shaft assy ($498) was complete and all that was needed was to add nitrogen, nothing to rebuild?
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:05 AM   #70923
JagLite
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Eh? Wrong Again. Shocking, eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
We don't include it because not everyone will need one. If the shock is only a couple years old or less the bumper and seal head are probably perfectly fine. Riders with older shocks can add the seal head and bumper if they need them.

The photo above is the shaft assembly. You can see the rebound adjustment knob at the bottom. It does come with a new bumper.
Ah, my mistake.
I make several each day...

I thought mrprez was saying that he had bought your $279 "Shock Solution Kit".

I wondered why the bottom of his shock looked different. Duh!

He got your "Shock Shaft Assembly" ($498) so it is very similar to a Cogent shock.

Thanks for clarifying that.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:14 AM   #70924
JagLite
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Bluhduh Even more shocking!

Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I thought the shaft shaft assy ($498) was complete and all that was needed was to add nitrogen, nothing to rebuild?
Direct from ProCycle, our favorite parts supplier:

Quote:
Shock Shaft Assembly with Rebound Adjustment

Replace the internal components in your shock with a completely updated design with adjustments for both compression and rebound damping.

The new shaft assembly has improved valving for both compressing and rebound, a thicker, stronger shaft, new seal head and bottoming bumper. Comes as a complete assembly ready to go into your shock body and includes your choice of rear spring (required). Other spring rates available by special order - call.
Unless I am wrong (again) you get all new INTERNALS but you have to take your shock apart and put it back together.

That is where mrprez helped out by saying it only took him 2 hours to do the job.

Now, back to juggling apples and oranges and bananas.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:18 AM   #70925
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Direct from ProCycle, our favorite parts supplier:

Unless I am wrong (again) you get all new INTERNALS but you have to take your shock apart and put it back together.

That is where mrprez helped out by saying it only took him 2 hours to do the job.

Now, back to juggling apples and oranges and bananas.
You're right.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:45 AM   #70926
GaThumper
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I don't think you will regret having Rick do both ends. He did mine last year and I have been VERY satisfied with it. I could probably still see more improvement from a fork swap, but the resprung front forks with Racetech emulators are fine for me. The Cogent rebuild on the rear is outstanding.

Plus Rick and Joyce are great people!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Thanks for the info on the Cogent vs PC shock. I'll go with Cogent. I'm going to send him my fork tubes too and have him do the work to them as well. Figure if the bike is gonna be down for a few weeks, might as well have both ends done.

Rob
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:06 AM   #70927
nsrrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
A friend bought a used KTM 400 with a Tubliss set up, front and rear. The problem with it, is that you have to air up every time you go riding. The 100 psi sealing ring leaks down after a day or so. Try finding a 100psi hose on an adventure camping ride. It's really for offroad competition IMO, to prevent tubes getting pinch flats in a race.

He took them off the bike in less than a month.
i have tubliss on my berg 390 and pretty much agree with your friend.......ive left the front on however cuz i can feel the benefit and just figure i have to pump it up after a few days of riding or if it has sat for a few weeks......i wouldnt use them on my DR650......
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:35 AM   #70928
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
I don't think you will regret having Rick do both ends. He did mine last year and I have been VERY satisfied with it. I could probably still see more improvement from a fork swap, but the resprung front forks with Racetech emulators are fine for me. The Cogent rebuild on the rear is outstanding.

Plus Rick and Joyce are great people!

I have the Cogent shock on my bike, and Intiminators up front. Very satisfied for my riding needs. Rick from Cogent also has a cartridge upgrade for the stock forks as another option.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:37 AM   #70929
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Sorry my fault. I did get the entire shaft assembly not the solution kit. I used the solution kit on the front forks.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:40 AM   #70930
lamotovita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
. Try finding a 100psi hose on an adventure camping ride.
Any bicycle shop will sell you a small high pressure (low volume) pump for a few bucks.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:22 PM   #70931
neo1piv014
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Starting problems

So, I have an interesting issue that's been plaguing me since I bought the bike. I'm having a problem getting the bike to start. I'll push the starter button with the key in and on. The clutch is in, the bike is in neutral, etc, but nothing happens. It doesn't even try to turn over. I'll press the button a few times, try turning the key on and off, and eventually, it'll start cranking and fire right up. I don't know if there's a short somewhere, but this seems fairly random. It doesn't seem to matter if the bike is really cold, been running for hours, or anything in between. It's a moderate inconvenience at this point, but if I stalled out in an intersection, it might be a bit more of an issue. Anyone else had this happen?
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:39 PM   #70932
mrprez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So, I have an interesting issue that's been plaguing me since I bought the bike. I'm having a problem getting the bike to start. I'll push the starter button with the key in and on. The clutch is in, the bike is in neutral, etc, but nothing happens. It doesn't even try to turn over. I'll press the button a few times, try turning the key on and off, and eventually, it'll start cranking and fire right up. I don't know if there's a short somewhere, but this seems fairly random. It doesn't seem to matter if the bike is really cold, been running for hours, or anything in between. It's a moderate inconvenience at this point, but if I stalled out in an intersection, it might be a bit more of an issue. Anyone else had this happen?
What is the position of the side stand? Does your neutral light work?
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:43 PM   #70933
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So, I have an interesting issue that's been plaguing me since I bought the bike. I'm having a problem getting the bike to start. I'll push the starter button with the key in and on. The clutch is in, the bike is in neutral, etc, but nothing happens. It doesn't even try to turn over. I'll press the button a few times, try turning the key on and off, and eventually, it'll start cranking and fire right up. I don't know if there's a short somewhere, but this seems fairly random. It doesn't seem to matter if the bike is really cold, been running for hours, or anything in between. It's a moderate inconvenience at this point, but if I stalled out in an intersection, it might be a bit more of an issue. Anyone else had this happen?
Yeah, I'd bypass the safety switches on the clutch and sidestand. If that doesn't fix it, take a look inside your starter button. It's very simple inside. It might just be dirty contacts.

Are your lights coming on with the key turned? If not, you may have an issue with your battery cables or keyswitch.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:58 PM   #70934
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
You can still go ahead and get the front Tubliss set up, Myself, most of my flats have been pinch flats up front with tubes. Since switching over to the Tubliss set up on my KTM 450 I've only had one flat in 3.5 years and I actually rode 70 miles at 60 MPH back home to fix it. Got a front setup I plan on putting on my DR when I change the tire.
Thanks for the good words on Tubliss. If I didn't have three good 17" tires setting around for the rear, I'd consider converting to an 18" rear wheel.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:02 PM   #70935
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Which reminds me, I am searching for a BSA B50 rear wheel if anyone has one....
Friend of ours who let us try this out today has a number of BSA/Triumph/CCM singles. He might have a spare.

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