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Old 11-12-2012, 06:08 PM   #70936
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
This was posted a little while back: Those were weights that people actually reported that weighed them. The 690 R's weigh 13 lbs more then the older Enduro's

I do know that my DR feels like a tank compared to my 690, a big part of that is the 690 has the fuel tank under the seat which makes a huge difference in handling.

Make Model Curb weight in pounds (engine hp/torque)
Husqvarna TE630 318 (57/41)
KTM 690R 331 (65/49)
BMW G650X 346 (53/44)
Honda XR650L 346 (31/30)
Suzuki DR650 366 (37/34)
BMW G650GS 422 (48/44)
Kawasaki KLR650 432 (34/31)
The problem is some of those hp/tq numbers are the manufacturers claimed numbers at the crank, others are rwhp numbers off a dyno.....BIG difference
And different dyno's/operators, different bikes/tuning/tires/pressures/chain tensions etc etc, very different numbers

And like someone also mentioned, some of those are dry weights, and some wet weights....another HUGE difference. Numbers can be VERY deceptive and subjective.....

Some of those stats are pulled directly from the manufacturers info, some aren't......like I said VERY subjective lol.
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Sierra Thumper screwed with this post 11-12-2012 at 06:21 PM
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:18 PM   #70937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
Older DR's are 324 lbs.
324 = Brochure weight
366 = Actual weight
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:23 PM   #70938
Gryphon12
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Weight dry, without oil, gas, or battery = 324 lbs. Older publications and brochures always quoted "dry" weight; some included battery (rarely) and fork oil (50/50).

Weight wet, full tank, ready to ride = 366 lbs. Trend since the early 2000's is to quote "curb" weight, but some mfgs still only use 1/2 tank of fuel, or no fuel but battery and all other fluids.

Consistency is tough. MontessaVR's thread is the most consistent accumulation for DS, Enduro and some Trials bikes that I have found - and I've been accumulating the numbers for over 10 years. Even so, I continue to find errors and update my data.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:26 PM   #70939
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
324 = Brochure weight
366 = Actual weight
Yep, most mfg went to wet weights to be more consistent.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #70940
SGrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
This was posted a little while back: Those were weights that people actually reported that weighed them. The 690 R's weigh 13 lbs more then the older Enduro's

I do know that my DR feels like a tank compared to my 690, a big part of that is the 690 has the fuel tank under the seat which makes a huge difference in handling.

Make Model Curb weight in pounds (engine hp/torque)
Husqvarna TE630 318 (57/41)
KTM 690R 331 (65/49)
BMW G650X 346 (53/44)
Honda XR650L 346 (31/30)
Suzuki DR650 366 (37/34)
BMW G650GS 422 (48/44)
Kawasaki KLR650 432 (34/31)
I rode a BMW X-Challenge and was shocked that it didn't seem to have much of a power advantage over my DR 650, both of them were stock and I ended up not buying the X-Challenge because it didn't seem that much better than the DR 650.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:34 PM   #70941
JagLite
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Cool2 Weighing in on weight

Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
Older DR's are 324 lbs.
Actually model years for pre '96 DR's varied among themselves too.
Take a look at Zen Seeker's DR 650 History (scroll about half way down)
http://dr650.zenseeker.net/DR650History.htm
Keep in mind the weights are Suzuki DRY weight

So the New model '96 through present are a good bit lighter than the pre '96 bikes
Still, would be nice to lose a bunch more weight.
Under seat fuel tank, removable plastic subframe, better suspension quality...
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #70942
Gryphon12
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Many of us have been asking for an updated DR650 for years. However, the air/oil cooled design is anvil reliable and I guess that's what Suzuki wants.

The pre-1996 DR650's are a different bike. The RS versions had Dakar 1/2 fairings that integrated smoothly into the gas tank. These were heavier. The standard versions had heavier weight components: swing arm, suspension, etc. and a different frame. The RS is really cool, but never came to the US and parts are now very hard to find.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:54 PM   #70943
JMR
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Dual range Dual Sport

What I would really like is a Hi-Low transfer case for my next dual sport. Like the old Honda Trail 90. (Turn a 5-speed into a 10-speed.) Wonder why none of them have one? Seems like having a much lower gearing would help in a lot in Trials-like riding circumstances.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:34 PM   #70944
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Actually model years for pre '96 DR's varied among themselves too.
Take a look at Zen Seeker's DR 650 History (scroll about half way down)
http://dr650.zenseeker.net/DR650History.htm
Keep in mind the weights are Suzuki DRY weight

So the New model '96 through present are a good bit lighter than the pre '96 bikes
Still, would be nice to lose a bunch more weight.
Under seat fuel tank, removable plastic subframe, better suspension quality...
You can shave some weight if you look around (GSXR muff, HDB mirrors, small LED signals, lighter bars, Trailtech headlight assy, removing un-used brackets, etc.), but you can keep the underseat tank for gimmicky streetbikes and full-on race enduros. I like being able to easily bolt on a simple long-range tank without having to carry extra containers all over the bike or having to sell a kidney. How many other slab-comfortable bikes can carry 400+ miles worth of fuel and still be well under 400lb...for around $500? How strong would a plastic subframe be too, and where could one get it repaired if it busted in BFE?
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:58 PM   #70945
ntm1973
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Electrical Issues

I nearly got stranded in the woods last weekend when my 1996 DR650 battery died.

At first, I thought, it's the stator not charging but then I had my riding partner help me jump the bike and it ran fine. So I thought, it is the battery but I brought the battery home charged it up and it seems to be holding a charge just fine. I thought it was the regulator/rectifier but that check out per the DR650 manual. I am at a loss of how to progress, here is what I did so far:

Battery leak test: Shows .80 volts, is this normal? When I take off the regulator, it drops to .03 volts. Is this normal? I've never had a bike with such a large leak.

Battery charging test: Bike running with the voltmeter attached, revved bike and it only reached 12.80 volts. Manual says it should be over 13 volts. This is a problem but what else could be an issue?

Stator test: 80+ volts accross all three wires on a/c scale, doesn't seem to be a problem.

Regulator/rectifier test: tested fine using the manual's resistance test but I also swapped it out with another bike (dr650 2003) regulator/rectifier and could not see any change. So either I have 2 bad regulators or I am missing something.

Crank tested the battery: Disconnected the spark plug wires and tried starting with the voltmeter on it. The volts dropped to 10.8 volts which seems to be ok.

I changed out the fuses and checked general wire conections but nothing stood out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone else done a battery leak inspections? If so, what kind of numbers did you see, the manual doesn't state a spec.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:18 AM   #70946
Ben99r1
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Location: Pomona, Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
I nearly got stranded in the woods last weekend when my 1996 DR650 battery died.

At first, I thought, it's the stator not charging but then I had my riding partner help me jump the bike and it ran fine. So I thought, it is the battery but I brought the battery home charged it up and it seems to be holding a charge just fine. I thought it was the regulator/rectifier but that check out per the DR650 manual. I am at a loss of how to progress, here is what I did so far:

Battery leak test: Shows .80 volts, is this normal? When I take off the regulator, it drops to .03 volts. Is this normal? I've never had a bike with such a large leak.

Battery charging test: Bike running with the voltmeter attached, revved bike and it only reached 12.80 volts. Manual says it should be over 13 volts. This is a problem but what else could be an issue?

Stator test: 80+ volts accross all three wires on a/c scale, doesn't seem to be a problem.

Regulator/rectifier test: tested fine using the manual's resistance test but I also swapped it out with another bike (dr650 2003) regulator/rectifier and could not see any change. So either I have 2 bad regulators or I am missing something.

Crank tested the battery: Disconnected the spark plug wires and tried starting with the voltmeter on it. The volts dropped to 10.8 volts which seems to be ok.

I changed out the fuses and checked general wire conections but nothing stood out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone else done a battery leak inspections? If so, what kind of numbers did you see, the manual doesn't state a spec.

Any help would be appreciated.
Check the CDI. Check the ground wires for rust and good connections. Make sure you don't have a wire that's touching metal and drawing power.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:31 AM   #70947
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
I nearly got stranded in the woods last weekend when my 1996 DR650 battery died.


Any help would be appreciated.
I have been through 2 battery replacements for my '96. about 3 years per.

When the battery goes bad, the bike cranks, but won't start. Then it goes dead. After a charge, it starts and seems fine. Then the next time I went to start it, usually at least a week later, same problem. I think a marginal battery, with just enough juice to turn the motor over, doesn't have enough extra to fire the sparkplugs. Just an opinion. If you can try someone elses battery, even a smaller one, you can probably prove it is the battery. If the battery is over 3 years old, it's probably the culprit.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:52 AM   #70948
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post

And like someone also mentioned, some of those are dry weights, and some wet weights....another HUGE difference. Numbers can be VERY deceptive and subjective.....
All those numbers posted above are curb weight NOT dry weight. As for HP numbers, those are usually even more exaggerated by the manufacturers then weight is. These days actually, most manufacturers are fairly honest about the weight, even Honda.

You are right, numbers can be deceptive. Some bikes while actually lighter feel heavier in real world riding. Where that weight is on a bike makes a huge difference.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:55 AM   #70949
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGrider View Post
I rode a BMW X-Challenge and was shocked that it didn't seem to have much of a power advantage over my DR 650, both of them were stock and I ended up not buying the X-Challenge because it didn't seem that much better than the DR 650.
There's a reason there weren't very many X-Challenge's produced.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:15 AM   #70950
Escaped
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Location: Northern California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
I nearly got stranded in the woods last weekend when my 1996 DR650 battery died.

Any help would be appreciated.
Just buy a new battery and save yourself a lot of trouble.

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