the DR650 thread

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by heirhead

Hello,

The RED CIRCLE is fine.

Originally Posted by heirhead

....... just will have to lower forks more to see if that is enough.

There's a way to lower the forks internally, a factory option and it's good for 1-1/2". But it requires fork disassembly. To know if it's been done, just measure your fork length with no weight on them (full extension). My stock forks (full extension) are 35 1/4" from the fork cap to the axle centerline. Factory lowered should be 33 3/4".

Originally Posted by heirhead

I must be really short!!

Thanks again,

Heirhead

You can't be all that short; your feet reach the ground when you're walking, right?

Originally Posted by biosci

Thanks ER70S I finally found the explanation I was seeking. appreciate the pics too.

Glad to help with the AHA moment. I pirated that photo and I'm looking for the rightful owner right now, to give proper credit.

Found and edited my earlier post:
Photo thanks to TrophyHunter and findable thanks to Krusty's DR650 Index.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

Well finally got the photo to post. Tires hold air and all is going well. Will post if any future problems arise.

TravelGuy

You still have the training wheels on your bike, I see.

[ER70S-2]

[bradrh]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

Grifter here is how I did it. Used wire brush to clean nipple area, Dremel and drill power

Two applications of Seal-All the one of Goop, same manufacturer. Available at most hardware stores.

Mounted tires and then did bathtub test for leaks, no leaks. First tried to mount some used TrackMaster tires designed to use tubes and could not get them to pop and seal bead. Got out my new Kenda Big Block and they popped right in place.

Waited a few days before checking air pressures again, all okay. Mounted wheels on bike and did test ride. All seems okay.

TravelGuy

These are stock rims?
The kenda's are tubeless type? You didn't have to do anything seal around the bead? Are you running slime or anything?
I've run mtn bikes tubeless for a few years, we just use some tape around the rim to seal around the spokes, then run Stans No-tubes (http://www.notubes.com) to seal up any remaining leaks. One problem that can occur at low pressures is the tire burping off the bead. It will come unsealed for a moment & lose some air, usually when you put a lateral load on it in a corner or a drop. Not too big of a problem at mtn bike speeds, but I wonder if this could occur with a motorcycle rim that isn't designed for tubeless.

[lamotovita]

Originally Posted by bradrh

. One problem that can occur at low pressures is the tire burping off the bead. It will come unsealed for a moment & lose some air, usually when you put a lateral load on it in a corner or a drop. Not too big of a problem at mtn bike speeds, but I wonder if this could occur with a motorcycle rim that isn't designed for tubeless.

Yes it can. It even happened to me once with a tubeless tire on a tubeless rim (it was a cheap Brazilian tire and I tried running very low pressure to get it to hook up). Looking at the DR in question, and how it's loaded, I'm guessing that low pressures aren't a concern.

[Feelers]

Originally Posted by bradrh

These are stock rims?
The kenda's are tubeless type? You didn't have to do anything seal around the bead? Are you running slime or anything?
I've run mtn bikes tubeless for a few years, we just use some tape around the rim to seal around the spokes, then run Stans No-tubes (http://www.notubes.com) to seal up any remaining leaks. One problem that can occur at low pressures is the tire burping off the bead. It will come unsealed for a moment & lose some air, usually when you put a lateral load on it in a corner or a drop. Not too big of a problem at mtn bike speeds, but I wonder if this could occur with a motorcycle rim that isn't designed for tubeless.

Just a question: If you get a flat out in the bush and the tubeless tire comes off the bead, how do you plan to get it back on?

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by bradrh

These are stock rims?
The kenda's are tubeless type? You didn't have to do anything seal around the bead? Are you running slime or anything?

Travelguy used the so called Cyborg method for sealing his rims, the same way I did it. No need to seal around the bead, the tyre itself takes care of that. No need to run a tyre sealant either, although I do run QuadBoss for additional peace of mind.

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by Feelers

Just a question: If you get a flat out in the bush and the tubeless tire comes off the bead, how do you plan to get it back on?

It's very easy; in my garage I pop the tyre bead onto the rim using just a bicycle pump.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Feelers

Just a question: If you get a flat out in the bush and the tubeless tire comes off the bead, how do you plan to get it back on?

For trips out in the bush you still carry a tube for emergency repair.

[Feelers]

Originally Posted by procycle

For trips out in the bush you still carry a tube for emergency repair.

Oh...
That seems to defeat the purpose doesn't it?

I thought the purpose was to avoid carrying tubes and to not need to remove tires for tube repair/insertion.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Feelers

That seems to defeat the purpose doesn't it?

The main advantage is you can repair a simple puncture with a plug. But to be prepared for a damaged rim or tire damage that won't hold a plug you would really want a tube as backup.

[Rob.G]

So... for the cost-conscious... is the ProCycle Rear Shock Solution kit (basically a gold valve and a spring) going to be that much worse than sending the shock off to Cogent? Seems to me if you get the valving right it oughta be pretty darn good, yes? $279 vs $500-something is a pretty big difference. Especially since I need to do the rear shock on my KLX250S as well.

Rob

[acesandeights]

Interesting your question came up.

It's my thought that the Race Tech emulators and rear shock assy are the best thing out there. I don't understand the Cogent option. A lot of people are happy with it, but wouldn't they be happier with the Race Tech rear shock assembly? Seems the Race Tech rear shock assembly is better and cheaper, or am I wrong?

Anyway, I'd put the Procycle front suspenion kit and the shock assy together as a package and call it race ready. Anyone disagree?

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by procycle

The main advantage is you can repair a simple puncture with a plug. But to be prepared for a damaged rim or tire damage that won't hold a plug you would really want a tube as backup.

What I'm wondering is how you can tighten loose spokes as they develop if you seal the nipple? It seems like as soon as you turn the nipple to tighten up the spokes you'll break the seal...then I guess you pull the tire and go back in and reseal?

[johnkol]

Originally Posted by procycle

The main advantage is you can repair a simple puncture with a plug. But to be prepared for a damaged rim or tire damage that won't hold a plug you would really want a tube as backup.

Do road bike riders carry a tube for their tubeless wheels? Of course not. Why would one carry a tube for a tubeless DR then? I never do. I hardly ever get flats to begin with, so what is the probability that one gets a flat that cannot be repaired with a plug?