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Old 11-19-2012, 02:33 PM   #71296
bradrh
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: lakewood, co
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
.
Did you ever consider your head is now too big for your neck? As you age and spend more time sitting, the neck/noggin ratio diminishes, skewing everything you think you know.
And this can be compounded with some folks who get a little knowledge & their head swells up, then they get stubborn thinking they know everything & quit listening to other reasonable folks & pretty soon they just look like stubborn old swollen headed fools
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:52 PM   #71297
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
But if you do air them down (20f/18r) they go even better off road.
I'd imagine so. Our offroad sections around my house are an odd combo of either hard packed dirt road that most street tires are pretty stable on or soft, deep sand. If I was headed out to the mesa for an afternoon in the desert, I'd probably air them down then for the extra grip.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Depends on the PO. If I was the PO you'd be looking at needing a top end by 24K. Hopefully your PO didn't ride like I do
So you're saying that the PO may have provided him with an excuse to install a big bore cylinder?
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:38 PM   #71298
bradrh
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520 or 525 chain & sprockets

It sounds like people have converted to 520 chain/sprockets without any issues? Anybody have premature wear or breakage issues? What do other 650 class thumpers use? I'm due for new & am thinking about making the switch.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:47 PM   #71299
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
So, the DR frame flexes horribly when riding down a seam? Well, I haven't ridden/driven anything yet that didn't feel different when cruising down a seam in the pavement, from a tricycle to a 5-ton military tactical vehicle. My advice? Stop cruising down seams. Who does that? Move to the left or right 6".
I was talking about crossing a seam at a shallow angle. I can do that in my puny 15-lb road bike and the bike feels solid as a rock. I can ride uneven ruts with my KTM and the bike goes straight as an arrow without any dramas. I've never had any four-wheeled vehicle that was affected by seams.

I can only speculate that you are thinking of something completely different?
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:26 PM   #71300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Inmates,


I need to get my hands on a 09917-23711 ring nut socket by next Friday. Son is flying in to town to help with a full rebuild and cannot locate this tool anywhere. Will be happy to purchase used if you have one you're no longer using, or would even be happy to rent it from you if you'll take a deposit + shipping from me for the trouble. Please get in touch if you have it.

By the by, anyone know the actual diamter of the socket? It's not the same part number as the ring nut on the steering head. If I can size it, I might be able to find a generic version elsewhere.

Thanks!

I am also interested in the dimensions of the ring nut. I believe you can make one by starting with a large socket and doing some machine work. does anybody know what size socket to start with, or what the diameter of the ring nut socket is?
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:48 PM   #71301
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
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Brake light wires

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Another quick question:
There's two wires (black and black w/ red stripe) that split out from the wiring harness about 4/5 of the way up to the handlebar assembly. These plug-in right near the throttle and are on spade type connectors. Can anyone tell me what these are for?
Those wires hook onto the front brake master... and turn on the rear brake (FIXED) LIGHT when you apply the front brake. The rear brake switch does the same brake light... two ways to turn on the brake light.

Thanks for fixing my omission.

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 11-20-2012 at 06:35 PM
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:59 PM   #71302
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
and turn on the rear brake light when you apply the front brake. The rear brake switch does the same brake light... two ways to turn on the brake light.
Fixed. This is not a BMW with linked brakes we're talking about.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #71303
smilin jack
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
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Kill switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I've been having problems getting the bike to start, so I took the starter/kill switch assembly off the bars and decided to clean it. As soon as I popped the kill switch out, it basically disintegrated on me. I guess 12 year old plastic doesn't hold up very well to the New Mexico desert and sun. I never actually used the damn thing because it always stuck closed, so I'm just planning on leaving it off the bike entirely and sealing up the hole with a piece of rubber or something. My questions:
1. Is this okay to do?
2. When I de-solder the orange wires going to the kill switch, do I need to solder them together and make a connection or keep them separated so they cannot make a connection?
3. Anyone else done this before?
4. Why are there 6 wires on one end of the wiring loom and 7 on the other end?

Thanks!
Had my kill switch opened for a repair last month. First link shows pictures.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70736

This second link has a link to the kill switch repair/change to momentary contact kill.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70791

The two wires to the kill switch have to make contact (complete the circuit) for the engine to run. When you push the kill switch, it breaks the circuit and no power gets thru to power the ignition.

Look at my pictures of the wiring harness going to the kill switch. I removed the plastic sheath and found lots of wires. Some joined together inside the sheath, making for more coming out one end than going in the front. I soldered the crimp connectors in the middle that were loose and taped them up and put the sheath back on with another sheath over that. It rains all winter in Oregon.

Hope that helps your kill switch.

Dave
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:26 PM   #71304
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Fixed. This is not a BMW with linked brakes we're talking about.
I was going to make the same reply...lol. Also the wires attach to a separate replaceable micro switch mounted underneath the master cylinder...not the master cylinder itself. You should hear an audible click from the switch when you pull the brake lever. You are correct no electronic linked braking system on the DR. Maybe next year when it gets a new purple frame to go with the new grey color scheme.

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Old 11-19-2012, 07:45 PM   #71305
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
It sounds like people have converted to 520 chain/sprockets without any issues? Anybody have premature wear or breakage issues? What do other 650 class thumpers use? I'm due for new & am thinking about making the switch.
There are more sprocket choices available for the 520 chain and I think 520 chain is easier to find in other countries. The 520 won't match the mileage of an equal quality 525, but that wouldn't be considered premature wear. Since I can find the sprocket combo I like, I'm staying with the 525.

I would run a 520 set before I'd run a 13t front sprocket for extended distances. IIRC, those using a 13t have no choice but a 520 sprocket.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:45 PM   #71306
neo1piv014
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 618
Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Those wires hook onto the front brake master... and turn on the rear brake when you apply the front brake. The rear brake switch does the same brake light... two ways to turn on the brake light.

Dave
Cool. Thanks for the info [and everyone who responded with the missing word added back in]. I just noticed that one of the wires was a little loose, and I wanted to make sure my bike wasn't going to shut off if that wiggled off on the highway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Had my kill switch opened for a repair last month. First link shows pictures.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70736

This second link has a link to the kill switch repair/change to momentary contact kill.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70791

The two wires to the kill switch have to make contact (complete the circuit) for the engine to run. When you push the kill switch, it breaks the circuit and no power gets thru to power the ignition.

Look at my pictures of the wiring harness going to the kill switch. I removed the plastic sheath and found lots of wires. Some joined together inside the sheath, making for more coming out one end than going in the front. I soldered the crimp connectors in the middle that were loose and taped them up and put the sheath back on with another sheath over that. It rains all winter in Oregon.

Hope that helps your kill switch.

Dave
Right now, I have the wires twisted together and hidden under a bunch of electrical tape until I can run over to Radio Shack and pick up a cheap switch. I don't want to get another "click in/click out" type switch. I'm just going to get a regular toggle type switch. Massive thanks to everyone for being knowledgeable in a pinch.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:09 PM   #71307
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The problem is that NOBODY, once again, NOBODY else feels what you do, except me when my swingarm bushings were destroyed. We all have riden other rigs - even the same ones you have, yet nobody has the same experience. This seems to indicate that you have a DIFFERENT DR650 than the rest of us. Using LOGIC this is what the obvious answer is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
I was talking about crossing a seam at a shallow angle. I can do that in my puny 15-lb road bike and the bike feels solid as a rock. I can ride uneven ruts with my KTM and the bike goes straight as an arrow without any dramas. I've never had any four-wheeled vehicle that was affected by seams.

I can only speculate that you are thinking of something completely different?
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:20 PM   #71308
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in Santa Fe View Post
Greetings all, I am looking at a 2005 DR 650 that has 24,000 miles. (Mostly highway as a commuter).
The guy has full records and the bike looks well cared for.
Question: IS 24K high mileage for a DR 650 engine that has been maintained?
(I have an old BMW Boxer, where 24K is barely broken in, so my thinking may be off.)
Thanks, Steve
If you look closely for touched up paint chips, dinged frame rails under the engine (maybe hidden by a new skidplate), scuffed brush gaurds, headlight cowling, lever ends & mirrors, weird fitting replacement nuts and bolts, etc, abuse can be found. It sounds like a nice bike if it was a commuter, but it should be priced low for your area. 24k is no spring chicken.

Mine just turned 42,400 and runs like a top (because I ride it like I want it to last). I'm a believer in full synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1 15w-50 automotive at 3500 miles, in my case )
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:21 PM   #71309
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
It sounds like people have converted to 520 chain/sprockets without any issues? Anybody have premature wear or breakage issues? What do other 650 class thumpers use? I'm due for new & am thinking about making the switch.
There are hundreds of posts on the 525 - 520 option, all kinds of opinions all through this thread. You could start at the beginning of this thread and read the whole thing ... but your head might swell up and explode.
(too much knowledge!)

If you use your DR650 mostly as a dirt bike then you have more gearing options (especially with the rear sprocket) with the 520 set up.

But for serious LD touring / travel ... especially out of the USA ... stay with a quality 525 chain and OEM sprockets.

If you go 520 get the best X ring chain you can and use quality sprockets. (if you care about longevity). I would use the DR800 (DR BIG) sprockets.

I have gone 25,000 miles on one 525 X ring chain. (Not the stock one)
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:16 PM   #71310
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So when I was removing the charcoal canister, I broke the fitting on the bottom of the carb that the hose goes to. Am I screwed? Can I epoxy it tojust plug it or am sol. I fired it up and it doesn't seem to suck any air. But the fitting is brass and has a hole through it.



Off Limits screwed with this post 11-19-2012 at 09:46 PM
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