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Old 11-24-2012, 05:45 PM   #71416
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?
If you plan on retaining the stock rear rim I would recommend either a 2.15x19 or a 1.85x19 rim on the front.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #71417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Is the 19" front wheel of a width that the rear OEM rim can stay, or does the rear still have to be changed out for balance like with SM wheels?
I borrowed a set from a buddy. Stock rear, 19 front, no issues at all. GoodCat8 ran the combo all the time and never mentioned any problems. The 19 is a blast in the corners and it looks symetrical on the DR.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:24 PM   #71418
opium89
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Engine Swap

Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

Have a 1999 DR with a grenaded case. Found a replacement bottom end at a salvage yard. Seeing as I am not quite sure how many miles might be on the bottom end I purchased, my original plan was to swap *everything* from the original engine and move it over to the new case. Now that I have it apart, I am not so sure it's worth the bother to split the cases, and simply move everything else over to the replacement. Anything you folks can think of that I should look for in making this decision? I'd really hate to not do it, then find out there's a bad bearing or gear in the replacement bottom end. Anything above the obvious I should be looking for in making this determination? Keep in mind I was an auto mechanic for 11 years of my life, so I am not completely oblivious to signs of normal engine wear. So far, I can't fault the replacement in any way, at least visually, performing some cursory spins, and looking for play in the rod, bearings and output shafts.







Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?



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Old 11-24-2012, 09:05 PM   #71419
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Who did the rebuild?

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
Rear shock blew thus summer, pro rebuilt and now it's leaking after a hard offroad ride wtf?!?
How many time will I have to rebuild?
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:15 AM   #71420
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

(Rick snipped some stuff...)


Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?



1. Can you check the engine # from the replacement and ascertain what year bike it came out of?

2. Is there a way to make certain the parts fiche is correct in displaying/not displaying the washer with respect to the model years?
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:39 AM   #71421
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
1. Can you check the engine # from the replacement and ascertain what year bike it came out of?
Replacement: P409-112575

Grenade: P409-108145

Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
2. Is there a way to make certain the parts fiche is correct in displaying/not displaying the washer with respect to the model years?
I suppose I could call Bike Bandit and find out, but they've been pretty spot on so far.


By chance, I found an ad on eBay from the exact salvage yard I purchased the bottom end from. They just so happen to have the started idler gear listed from an engine that matched the engine number as mine. The listing states: "The speedometer read 32199 miles before we parted this bike down"

Sometimes you get lucky I guess....at least now I know what I am dealing with! Even at 32k, do you think it's worth a complete tear-down? The busted case only had 6000 on it before the starter-induced implosion.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:19 AM   #71422
gjcarving
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14t 41t Gearing. Pros and or Cons. And general Gearing..

Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:44 AM   #71423
ChromeSux
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Location: Lenoir City TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
I too like the 14t off road but the bike is buzzy if you have to ride the 4 lane for very long, if i have to ride 4 lane/ interstate for more than an hour or 2, then i put the 15t on, if you put the locking rear axle nut on and make a couple of reference marks on the rear axle cam for the chain adj and leave your counter sprocket cover off, the sprocket change goes pretty quick.

I have the Motion pro axle wrench/ tire spoon combo,i just grab it and the sprocket out of the tail bag, grab my T handle with 10mm socket and in a matter of moments its changed, a little bit of trouble but worth it.
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:19 AM   #71424
LeDakaR!
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here is my problem, the rebuild was done professionally by a very good suspension shop, dakar provider to Jonah Street
http://www.superplushsuspension.com/


Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Who did the rebuild?

TravelGuy
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:51 AM   #71425
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
here is my problem, the rebuild was done professionally by a very good suspension shop, dakar provider to Jonah Street
http://www.superplushsuspension.com/
Super Plush are well known among the KTM crowd in the Bay Area. But they deal mostly with racers ... not with bikes that actually get used hard for years and years. (KTM'S never last that long! )

I tried to contact them for fork work. They were never around, never returned my calls. I went to Catalyst Reaction instead. (on the Peninsula)
Fantastic result ... and they do shocks too!

My guess is if you tell SuperPlush the situation they will rebuild your shock again at NO CHARGE. Seems obvious. It's not like it's done 30K miles since their work was done. They owe you ... and if they expect their Rep to be maintained ... they should DO THE RIGHT THING!
Good luck ... and let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #71426
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
I've swapped 14T and 15T sprockets using the stock 42T rear many times. I only notice a slight advantage off road ... but it is there.
On road I could still maintain a good cruising speed with the 14T on, never felt it was over revving or buzzy at indicated 75 mph (actual 70 mph). With stock gearing I maintain indicated 80 mph, pretty smooth.

I rode cross country and for the off road sections (much of Nevada and Utah) I used the 14T front. All good.

There are lots of small things to do to smooth out your DR650 at highway speeds. Little things add up to effect vibes and eliminate a rough "feel" at high speed.

I found the Pro Taper Alu bars helped with vibes from stock. Also, retaining all the stock rubber shock mounting in bars and pegs. Noticeable difference.

Drive line is yet another. New rubber cush drive inserts really help as do fresh chain and sprockets. Check all three bearings while you're in there.
A worn sprocket can make you think your clutch basket is shot or ... bottom end bearings are gone. New sprockets and chain work wonders for this. Bad or worn Hub/Wheel bearings also tranmit a rough feel that may be hard to pin point.

And finally, many diss the heavy Corbin seat. But it's density means it damps out a lot of vibes at higher RPM's. Less rider fatigue.

I can change between a 14T and 15T on the side of the road in about 15 minutes max. NO CHAIN adjustment needed at all on my bike. I never touch the rear axle to do this. If you know how, its a quick swap from one sprocket to the other. (Loc- tite on retainer bolts please)
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:13 PM   #71427
LeDakaR!
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Location: route66moto.com San Francisco CA/ Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Super Plush are well known among the KTM crowd in the Bay Area. But they deal mostly with racers ... not with bikes that actually get used hard for years and years. (KTM'S never last that long! )

I tried to contact them for fork work. They were never around, never returned my calls. I went to Catalyst Reaction instead. (on the Peninsula)
Fantastic result ... and they do shocks too!

My guess is if you tell SuperPlush the situation they will rebuild your shock again at NO CHARGE. Seems obvious. It's not like it's done 30K miles since their work was done. They owe you ... and if they expect their Rep to be maintained ... they should DO THE RIGHT THING!
Good luck ... and let us know how it goes.
they are super duper goodguys.
so email sent, will keep you posted.
i have a solo DV ride coming up in december, I need to have faith in this bike.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #71428
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
Thanks for that.

Did you notice an improvement over the stock rotor while using the 19" fornt wheel or did you fit the Galfer when you fitted the 19" wheel ?
Did the Galfer at the same time as the 19", so I don't have a valid opinion as to how it would have affected the 21", sorry...
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:51 PM   #71429
MADurstewitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

Have a 1999 DR with a grenaded case. Found a replacement bottom end at a salvage yard. Seeing as I am not quite sure how many miles might be on the bottom end I purchased, my original plan was to swap *everything* from the original engine and move it over to the new case. Now that I have it apart, I am not so sure it's worth the bother to split the cases, and simply move everything else over to the replacement. Anything you folks can think of that I should look for in making this decision? I'd really hate to not do it, then find out there's a bad bearing or gear in the replacement bottom end. Anything above the obvious I should be looking for in making this determination? Keep in mind I was an auto mechanic for 11 years of my life, so I am not completely oblivious to signs of normal engine wear. So far, I can't fault the replacement in any way, at least visually, performing some cursory spins, and looking for play in the rod, bearings and output shafts.







Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?



I rebuilt my 2009 last winter from the cases up due to a bearing failure. I got the numbers for all of them and ordered SKF bearings from simplybearings.co.uk. I sized them based on caliper measurements and what I could get from the fiche on sites like bikebandit. Over 9000 miles later is runs fantastic. My point: you have to go in there anyway, might as well do it all. Simplybearings prices are much lower than suzuki and for far better bearings. I think I spent 1/4 of what I would have if I bought OEM (especially the Chinese bearing I found).

You'll kick yourself if you go through all that only to have something fly apart. I know it would make me nuts.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:54 AM   #71430
buckrut1972
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Front lights needed

I want to add some front lights to my 09 DR but need some help. From what little I know I do know I need low voltage ones. I see ADV Monster and Rigid Industries offer some nice ones but can anyone offer any suggestions on flood lights?
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