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Old 12-04-2012, 07:51 AM   #71596
Skidmarkart
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
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Thanks for all the replies - bike is pretty new (2005 with 1K miles), so I seriously doubt they are work out. Maybe I will give cleaning a try before I buy anything new. I ride to work in pretty much any weather, so they get wet a lot. Perhaps a good cleaning will help before I start buying stuff.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:16 AM   #71597
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
My bike has been feeling rather rough lately. It's hard to peg down, but it just feels like everything is..well, rough. I'm planning on trying to smooth things out over the winter holidays so here's my projected list of upgrades:

See the recent thread on brakes as well, might have some sticking causing drag.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:47 AM   #71598
maynard911
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Location: Bisbee AZ
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
+1 on the braided brake line, at least for the front. I ride my DR almost exclusively on the street, and the braided lines give much better control and braking power. Night and day difference.
Braided lines do not improve braking power. The power is determined by the master/slave ratio. The improvement that we feel when replacing an old rubber line is all controlability, without the the expansion the feel becomes more direct and lever travel is reduced. The difference is not that big if we are talking about a near new stock line that has not softened as they do with age.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
braided brake lines help a bit but ultimately the front brake master cyl is an undersized bore (ie smaller) compared to other bikes and thus the breaking is not as good.
You are thinking backwards, a smaller master will give more power, at the expense of more lever travel. Kind of like a smaller primary sprocket gives more power at the expense of more revs. There was a great write up about how it all works in Motorcycle Consumer News a few months back. The real subject of the artical was about radial master cylinders and how they can improve braking, and the test mule was a DR 650.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:00 AM   #71599
MikeyP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
There was a great write up about how it all works in Motorcycle Consumer News a few months back. The real subject of the artical was about radial master cylinders and how they can improve braking, and the test mule was a DR 650.
Interesting read. Thanks for pointing it out. Here's a link:

http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/technical/Nov2012Tech.pdf
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:41 AM   #71600
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
My bike has been feeling rather rough lately. It's hard to peg down, but it just feels like everything is..well, rough. I'm planning on trying to smooth things out over the winter holidays so here's my projected list of upgrades:
- Oil change to a synthetic instead of the dino oil I've got now (rough shifting)
- Wheel bearings (wheels don't want to spin very well and make an odd noise)
- Cush drive rubbers (again, rough shifting and harsh throttle jerk)
- Carb rebuild (a lot of surging, and I know for sure that my pilot needle is a bit bent)

My bike is a 2001, and the carb, bearings, and rubbers all appear to be the original parts. Is there anything else I should be looking for in terms of just tightening up the ship and making it ride a bit smoother? None of it looks terribly difficult, though I haven't ever done wheel bearings before. Is there anything I should keep an eye out for there?
First thing that comes to mind when you mention "roughness" is chain and sprockets. Syn oil may not improve shifting. I'd guess your shift lever is loose and floppy. Tighten it up, make sure your clutch is adjusted correctly and improve your shifting technique. Also, make sure your lever is not contacting the case when you try to shift. Very common.

Cush drive rubbers do wear out ... but usually last to at least 15,000 miles. I'm on my 3rd set at near 50K miles.
But I do notice roughness when either sprocket begins to wear out. The front wears first. Also, once your chain is worn out roughness will enter into drive line feel. Chain wear on a quality chain is subtle. Cheap chains more obvious.
Before changing wheel bearings or Hubb bearing ... check them carefully ... or have an expert do it for you to be sure of their condition. Use quality bearings or OEM.

I'd be very suspicious of a an '01 claiming just 1000 miles. A 5th grader can disconnect the speedo cable ... so don't rely on that as gospel. Many other better ways to determine usage.

Good hunting
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:15 PM   #71601
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
I hear many people talk about braided lines but I see no need for them on my DR with new pads and clean disk
New pads and clean disk are nice but braided lines, especially on the front, give a far better feel at the lever.

Grab your rubber brake line in your left hand and give an emergency stop type pull on the brake lever. You'll feel the brake line expand in your hand.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:55 PM   #71602
neo1piv014
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
First thing that comes to mind when you mention "roughness" is chain and sprockets. Syn oil may not improve shifting. I'd guess your shift lever is loose and floppy. Tighten it up, make sure your clutch is adjusted correctly and improve your shifting technique. Also, make sure your lever is not contacting the case when you try to shift. Very common.

Cush drive rubbers do wear out ... but usually last to at least 15,000 miles. I'm on my 3rd set at near 50K miles.
But I do notice roughness when either sprocket begins to wear out. The front wears first. Also, once your chain is worn out roughness will enter into drive line feel. Chain wear on a quality chain is subtle. Cheap chains more obvious.
Before changing wheel bearings or Hubb bearing ... check them carefully ... or have an expert do it for you to be sure of their condition. Use quality bearings or OEM.

I'd be very suspicious of a an '01 claiming just 1000 miles. A 5th grader can disconnect the speedo cable ... so don't rely on that as gospel. Many other better ways to determine usage.

Good hunting
- I'll check out the chain and sprockets. It's still on the factory chain and sprockets since it's only got 12k on it. I give them a quick look whenever I oil the chain, but a more thorough inspection could be in order.
- Are you defining "floppy" as side to side play or up and down play? I never noticed the lever feeling loose at all, but I also wasn't looking for it, so I may have missed something. If it is, how would I go about tightening it up?
- I'll check the clutch this evening. As for my shifting technique, I don't think I've been doing anything different, and it has gotten noticeably harder to shift since I got the bike 6,000 miles ago.

When I say that it's getting rough to shift, I mean that it feels like there's a lot of resistance to me shifting and a bit of a "clunk" as it finally goes it. It isn't missing shifts, finding false neutrals, or falling out of gear. It just feels difficult. Who knows, maybe it's just the weather turning cold or something stupid that I have no control over.
I'll give all those bits a looking over soon though. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:35 PM   #71603
Benduro
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: El Portal, Ca
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Eek

Crap. I need some advice guys. I'm not ter ribly savvy when it comes to engines.... My 09 with roughly 9k miles now has oil in the area of the valve cover/plugs. Pretty even coverage on the top of the cylinder cover where the plugs go in...so it's been hard to figure out where it's coming from. Today, after the bike has sat for a month and a half while I was at work, I wiped the oil off the surfaces I could get to with a rag (it was kind of "caked" lightly) and realized the outside bases of the plug caps were glistening! Popped the wires off (end of the plug looked fine) and wiped off the outside of the plug wire cap ends. Put em back on, started her up, and while bending over to look at the plug wires while sitting on the bike (choke now half on), I smelled burning oil very slightly. Figured it was oil burning off of some exterior surface as the cylinder head heated up or something but I was alarmed as I've never smelled anything like that before. As I was looking around, I noticed the faintest little wisp of smoke coming from somewhere around where my headpipe goes into the head. Then it stopped, and so did the smell. Rode it about 5 miles. Seemed like it didn't have as much grunt (subtle) but would still pull ok when 3000 rpms and above. Since the interior plug had more oil on it, I wonder if that plug loosened? Another thought I had was that after a low speed drop on the left side a couple months ago before I left, the motor was still running. I shut it off after gingerly getting up, and then picked up the bike. Could running while on it's side cause the external oil leak? After the drop, I started it up and rode super easy downhill for maybe 20 seconds until finding a flat spot to park and check out my injuries. Shut off the bike and it probably sat for 5 minutes. Was that enough to not damage the rings? I just googled oil on plug, and (of course) scared the crap out of myself reading internet reports of blown valve seat seals or rings...
Any ideas will be appreciated guys. Bear in mind, I am NOT a mechanic, but reasonably "switched on.". Thank you in advance for your time..
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:37 PM   #71604
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Handwarmers...

Who here has handwarmers AND a voltmeter installed? I'm curious what kind of voltage drop you get when you turn them on. I normally see around 14.4V when I'm riding, but when I click on the warmers (on High), it drops to 13.6 to 13.8 or thereabouts. I have ProCycle's aftermarket regulator and 250W stator if that means anything.

On my FZ1 (which is where I got to thinking about this), I normally see 13.4V, and when I turn those on (Symtec brand), I get the same drop... this time down to 12.6 to 12.8. Doesn't really leave any room for running heated gear. The DR650 is in better shape, having 1V more to work with, but I'm wondering if this is the same across the board? I don't get nearly as much drop running my 65W heated liner, even on full.

Rob
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:13 PM   #71605
kbuckey
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
Oddometer: 765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Who here has handwarmers AND a voltmeter installed? I'm curious what kind of voltage drop you get when you turn them on. I normally see around 14.4V when I'm riding, but when I click on the warmers (on High), it drops to 13.6 to 13.8 or thereabouts. I have ProCycle's aftermarket regulator and 250W stator if that means anything.

On my FZ1 (which is where I got to thinking about this), I normally see 13.4V, and when I turn those on (Symtec brand), I get the same drop... this time down to 12.6 to 12.8. Doesn't really leave any room for running heated gear. The DR650 is in better shape, having 1V more to work with, but I'm wondering if this is the same across the board? I don't get nearly as much drop running my 65W heated liner, even on full.

Rob
I see a larger voltage drop with the Gerbings jacket liner than with the hand warmers. My voltmeter usually reads 14.9 with the headlights on. Drops to about 14.2 with the jacket liner, about 14.5 with the handwarmers (but I usually only get them up to 40 or 50 %, seldom turn the knob up to high), and about 13.8 with both.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:21 PM   #71606
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
- I'll check out the chain and sprockets. It's still on the factory chain and sprockets since it's only got 12k on it. I give them a quick look whenever I oil the chain, but a more thorough inspection could be in order.
12K is typical life for the stock OEM DID "O" chain on the DR. A higher spec X ring DID chain will go much further. (25K miles if you change front sprocket at around 10K)
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Are you defining "floppy" as side to side play or up and down play? I never noticed the lever feeling loose at all, but I also wasn't looking for it, so I may have missed something. If it is, how would I go about tightening it up?
A lose shift lever will move all over, but mostly up and down. This is a very common thing most owners never even notice. First, remove plastic inspection cover. Get down on your knees ... now wiggle the lever. Is there any free movement where the main shift shaft is not being moved? You can SEE THIS ... if you look.

See that Bolt in front of you? It goes through the lever. Tighten it up.
If really bad ... remove lever and use a Disc grinder to widen the slot ... or buy a new lever. I've gone through 3 levers and 3 bolts. Dirt bike Boots are hard on the shift lever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
When I say that it's getting rough to shift, I mean that it feels like there's a lot of resistance to me shifting and a bit of a "clunk" as it finally goes it. It isn't missing shifts, finding false neutrals, or falling out of gear. It just feels difficult. Who knows, maybe it's just the weather turning cold or something stupid that I have no control over.
I'll give all those bits a looking over soon though. Thanks for the suggestions.
Be sure to check to see if your shift lever is coming into contact with your side case. Work it up and down through its full travel to test this out. This too is very common. Even a minor tip over can push the lever into the case a bit, thus contacting the case, making shifting hard or stopping it completely. I actually met a guy who thought sure his gear box was "Blown" because his DR would no longer shift gears. Turns out an UP movement put it into the side case, blocking movement.

He was slightly relieved when I reached down, bent the lever out a bit ... and all was back to normal. The DR is so simple and straight forward.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 12-04-2012 at 03:29 PM
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:35 PM   #71607
TrophyHunter
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Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
etc, and still there's too much pedal travel.
Rob
Rob - take a look at the mechanics of the rear brake pedal. It's plain sloppy from the get go. Look at all the pivot points & push it down with your hand. There's 1/4 inch of downward movement before the linkage starts moving anything due to the loose tolerances on the pivot points.

I experimented with trying to "sleeve" a few of the points in an effort to lower distance but lost interest. My Strom and former WR are/were instant. Especially the WR. If it starts buggin' me again, I'll look at taking the slop out of the process.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:42 PM   #71608
chethro
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Joined: May 2012
Location: WV
Oddometer: 21
Mirrors

I have seen a few DR's with the ram mount doubletake mirrors. Are they a good match for the DR?
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:54 PM   #71609
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,070
Quote:
Originally Posted by chethro View Post
I have seen a few DR's with the ram mount doubletake mirrors. Are they a good match for the DR?
They work great on the DR.

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Old 12-04-2012, 04:55 PM   #71610
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
Oddometer: 1,397
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trespasser View Post
Crap. I need some advice guys. I'm not ter ribly savvy when it comes to engines.... My 09 with roughly 9k miles now has oil in the area of the valve cover/plugs. Pretty even coverage on the top of the cylinder cover where the plugs go in...so it's been hard to figure out where it's coming from. Today, after the bike has sat for a month and a half while I was at work, I wiped the oil off the surfaces I could get to with a rag (it was kind of "caked" lightly) and realized the outside bases of the plug caps were glistening! Popped the wires off (end of the plug looked fine) and wiped off the outside of the plug wire cap ends. Put em back on, started her up, and while bending over to look at the plug wires while sitting on the bike (choke now half on), I smelled burning oil very slightly. Figured it was oil burning off of some exterior surface as the cylinder head heated up or something but I was alarmed as I've never smelled anything like that before. As I was looking around, I noticed the faintest little wisp of smoke coming from somewhere around where my headpipe goes into the head. Then it stopped, and so did the smell. Rode it about 5 miles. Seemed like it didn't have as much grunt (subtle) but would still pull ok when 3000 rpms and above. Since the interior plug had more oil on it, I wonder if that plug loosened? Another thought I had was that after a low speed drop on the left side a couple months ago before I left, the motor was still running. I shut it off after gingerly getting up, and then picked up the bike. Could running while on it's side cause the external oil leak? After the drop, I started it up and rode super easy downhill for maybe 20 seconds until finding a flat spot to park and check out my injuries. Shut off the bike and it probably sat for 5 minutes. Was that enough to not damage the rings? I just googled oil on plug, and (of course) scared the crap out of myself reading internet reports of blown valve seat seals or rings...
Any ideas will be appreciated guys. Bear in mind, I am NOT a mechanic, but reasonably "switched on.". Thank you in advance for your time..
I assume you mean Rocker covers, the slightly oval shaped covers with an allen bolt on each side, sometimes they can leak, no problem, Procycle sells new o ring seals for them.
As for dropping your bike or going down and the engine still running, it happens all the time wont hurt, just get back up and check for broken shifter, bent brake pedal etc. and ride on.
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