ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-14-2012, 11:29 AM   #71836
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,137
Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
The compromise is to run less sag than you would on a normal dirt bike. More air time but less dragging the belly.
Or stick a Ricor IAS shock on it.
__________________
DR650 Wiki
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 12:48 PM   #71837
dljocky
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 860
Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?



Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Or stick a Ricor IAS shock on it.
dljocky is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #71838
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?
You have several options:
1. re-build the stock shock yourself, install new seals, fresh oil and fresh nitrogen. (there is a tutorial here somewhere)
2. Send the stock shock out to Cogent or other suspension specialist. Here you get a sophisticated rebuild with good alteration to shim stack and shaft coating. Good reports.
3. Purchase a Ricor, Race Tech, Wilbur's or other shock out there for the DR650.

A heavier spring added to your current stock shock will help ... but you will still have a LOT of static sag. It's the nature of the shock and linkage set up. I installed an Ohlins. Much less static sag and great performance and adjustability.

Good luck!
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 08:29 AM   #71839
nokturnal
Adventurer
 
nokturnal's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 63
SOLD my DR

Sold my DR today. Great bike, but to hefty for the kind of riding I am doing now. Would definitely buy one again if I had the room and the $ for more bikes...

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread and helped me along the way.

Got some nice leftovers for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post20254249
nokturnal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 08:29 AM   #71840
Motodeficient
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
With winter fast approaching here in Maine, the DR650 comes back inside waiting for Spring.

Unlike last winter, I don't have many plans for it besides a good cleaning. And maybe a 790 kit.

Motodeficient is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 10:08 AM   #71841
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,274
Quote:
Originally Posted by nokturnal View Post
Sold my DR today. Great bike, but too hefty for the kind of riding I am doing now. Would definitely buy one again if I had the room and the $ for more bikes...

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread and helped me along the way.

Got some nice leftovers for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post20254249
Nokturnal:
Long ago and far away you posted this drawing for me over on Thumper Talk because I didn't know how at the time. I was trying to explain how to adjust the proper angle of the clutch arm.

It was the predecessor of this post:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=33

Good luck with your next ride.

__________________
2004 DR650: 62,496 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 10:53 AM   #71842
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,164
Batteries

Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'92 Yamaha TW200
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 11:08 AM   #71843
MADurstewitz
MADMark
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Thanks MAD

Has that 10,000 miles all been with the 790?
Yes, it has. It runs great!

Did the motoman break in. I recommend it.
__________________
MAD
(yes, those are my real initials)
MADurstewitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 11:20 AM   #71844
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.Rob SNIP
Is the battery in question like the new Shorai Lithium-Iron (not Ion) batteries we hear so much about? The Shorai batts need to "warm up" from what I've read ... and actually come to life once other accessories are used. The battery actually gets stronger after some discharging. Weird.
Lithium-Ion uses a different technology to Lithium-Iron from what I understand ... but DON'T ask me to explain either right now. I do believe that
Lithium-Ion batts like to be maintained at 100% all the time. Not so much with Lithium-Iron.

I'm really surprised you DR charging system did not bring you batt back up to usable power just from running around. I've run stock batteries dead a couple times (too many accessories running with stock 55W headlight on). On both occasions just running 20 minutes with accessories OFF brought batt right back up and bike started perfectly.

Got to love Japanese electrics!

I am leaning towards the Japanese made Shorai. But I will wait a while yet ... maybe for the 2nd generation of this technology.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 11:21 AM   #71845
badweatherbiker
Studly Adventurer
 
badweatherbiker's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 704
Kudos to all for helping me resolve most of my carb issues but I still have some minor hwy speed surging and an ever so slight miss on idle. My question is needles and clips and spacer related. I have the DJ needle in there now with the clip in the 2nd position from the top and an aluminum d spacer between the clip and where it rests the the slide.
I ordered the 6f19 from Derek and a plastic washer to give a try, should I use the aluminum d spacer with the 6f19 needle or just the little stock plastic round one and what position for the clip. should the washer be under the clip or above it? I am seeing so many here I am kinda worried I may have put it in the wrong way.
A pic would be golden!
__________________
1996 Kawasaki KZ1000P (currently being rebuilt)
World class nutritional supplements, weight loss, meal replacement shakes, quality energy drinks, pre and post workout supplements!
Earn extra income, become a distributor or just purchase:
Advocare products-www.advocare.com/12084065
badweatherbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 11:53 AM   #71846
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Kudos to all for helping me resolve most of my carb issues but I still have some minor hwy speed surging and an ever so slight miss on idle.
Are you able to kill the idling engine by closing the fuel screw? How about by opening it?

If the surging on the highway continues after installing the 6F19 needle, we will need to determine precisely at what opening this occurs. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle opening with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!
Quote:
I ordered the 6f19 from Derek and a plastic washer to give a try, should I use the aluminum d spacer with the 6f19 needle or just the little stock plastic round one and what position for the clip. should the washer be under the clip or above it?
Install the stock white plastic spacer under the clip of the 6F19 needle. Do not install the d-shaped aluminum washer.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 12:18 PM   #71847
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,137
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?
My shock is stock + 10w oil and 7.6kg/mm spring.

The Ricor shocks are very cheap at the moment.
__________________
DR650 Wiki
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 12:44 PM   #71848
Motodeficient
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
As mentioned, these batteries need to warm up with the ignition on for a few minutes when its cold. I have no problem with my Ballistic 8-cell in cold weather if I let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the magic button.
Motodeficient is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 12:45 PM   #71849
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
As mentioned, these batteries need to warm up with the ignition on for a few minutes when its cold. I have no problem with my Ballistic 8-cell in cold weather if I let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the magic button.
I tried that... wasn't working so well. I still think this battery is undersized for my FZ1; a 12-cell in the DR650 would be ideal and would probably be just fine warming up for a bit.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'92 Yamaha TW200
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 12:53 PM   #71850
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Let's Get It Started!

Well, the engine is back together. Added oil and a gallon of fuel to the tank. Cranked the starter and it reluctantly tried coming back to life with plenty of wheezing and backfiring. Now, this bike being from California it as all the emission control crap installed. I noticed that the roll-over valve only had the one hose from the carbon canister installed...the other normally goes to the tank breather. This being an IMS tank with no actual breather on it, I figured I would ignore it to start with and see what happens. My assumption of course being that this bike was running prior to the case being damage.

Based on the backfiring and the bike's apparent sour disposition, I decided to go ahead and remove all the emissions junk, capped the purge port on the carb, and also removed the tied-in-a-knot vacuum hose on the top of the carb and replaced it with a proper cap. The bike still wont start...actually it does crank and start very briefly and dies...crank it again and nothing, nada. Then, if I let it sit for 10-15 minutes I can repeat the process. Brief start - die- sit. However, no more backfiring.

So I need some advice...you think it's time I started to dig in to this carburetor? It has fuel, has plenty of spark...No vacuum leaks. It's sat for some time and I could certainly smell that rank old gasoline-turning-in-to-kerosene smell that carbs sitting for far too long emanate after awhile.
__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015