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Old 12-14-2012, 10:07 AM   #71851
UberKul
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Wilseyville, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I have my shock wound so tight, I'm afraid to tighten it much more, and the big dr still seems to have a lot of static/rider sag.
Maybe i should tighten it up some more?
Unless you are bottoming it out on anything but the real big hits I'd leave it alone. Heavier springs maybe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Ive got stiffer springs front and rear along with race tech gold/emulator valves,its still close to the ground just sitting there doing nothing. Jumping water bars on a DR650 is going to cause something bad to happen eventually,they just arent made for it.

I tagged a big rock going downhill on my DR once,dusty/shady using a darker shield.
I hit it,the forks collapsed,the rock then smashed the skidplate in and launched the bike into full nose wheelie status towards a small grove of trees just off the trail. Some how the bars turned to the right a little and I came out of it with only soiled shorts and a bad scare. I was thinking "life flight" as it rolled along with the back wheel way up in the air.
Didnt feel even remotely like a dirt bike at that point,more like a station wagon.

Another time it very nearly high sided me playing flattracker on it,bike gets sideways,frame flex wallow snap left to right full lock and things almost went way to shite at 45mph. Ive since slowed down on the DR,if one of these things lands on you it would be a "Bill the cat" meets "Wiley Coyote" situation and a smashed human would result.
They arent race bikes.
Jumping water bars is huge fun but save the big chuckles for jumping UP the bars. Jumping down hill can easily double that little two foot jump and convincing yourself to land it on the gas rear wheel first can be intimidating going down hill. If we are going to launch ourselves into the unknown like John Glenn we have to be willing to pay the price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Try riding something like a KTM 530excr just once,it will change your mind in a heartbeat ,big smooth engine,not heavy,handles like a dream,stock suspension works great.
After fooling around with dual purpose bikes for years I have figured out its even cheaper to have a 530 over a DR.
The money spent buying a DR and then fixing/farkling/fixing,changing,adjusting it to be somewhat like a dirtable bike ends up being more $ then just buying a bike that works great from the get go.

The DR still gets the nod for long dirt road trips or pavement rides with some dirt,the 530 is more grins per minute then should be legal when it goes out.
Lucky enough to have that option as well with a Husky TE 450 but that thing only comes out on hard core play days or DS events where the hard splits are the order for the day. Taking the DR to Alaska in 2014... wouldn't even consider the Husky.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:29 AM   #71852
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
The compromise is to run less sag than you would on a normal dirt bike. More air time but less dragging the belly.
Or stick a Ricor IAS shock on it.
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:48 PM   #71853
dljocky
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Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?



Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Or stick a Ricor IAS shock on it.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #71854
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?
You have several options:
1. re-build the stock shock yourself, install new seals, fresh oil and fresh nitrogen. (there is a tutorial here somewhere)
2. Send the stock shock out to Cogent or other suspension specialist. Here you get a sophisticated rebuild with good alteration to shim stack and shaft coating. Good reports.
3. Purchase a Ricor, Race Tech, Wilbur's or other shock out there for the DR650.

A heavier spring added to your current stock shock will help ... but you will still have a LOT of static sag. It's the nature of the shock and linkage set up. I installed an Ohlins. Much less static sag and great performance and adjustability.

Good luck!
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:29 AM   #71855
nokturnal
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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SOLD my DR

Sold my DR today. Great bike, but to hefty for the kind of riding I am doing now. Would definitely buy one again if I had the room and the $ for more bikes...

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread and helped me along the way.

Got some nice leftovers for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post20254249
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:29 AM   #71856
Motodeficient
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With winter fast approaching here in Maine, the DR650 comes back inside waiting for Spring.

Unlike last winter, I don't have many plans for it besides a good cleaning. And maybe a 790 kit.

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Old 12-15-2012, 10:08 AM   #71857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nokturnal View Post
Sold my DR today. Great bike, but too hefty for the kind of riding I am doing now. Would definitely buy one again if I had the room and the $ for more bikes...

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread and helped me along the way.

Got some nice leftovers for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post20254249
Nokturnal:
Long ago and far away you posted this drawing for me over on Thumper Talk because I didn't know how at the time. I was trying to explain how to adjust the proper angle of the clutch arm.

It was the predecessor of this post:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=33

Good luck with your next ride.

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:53 AM   #71858
Rob.G
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Batteries

Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:08 AM   #71859
MADurstewitz
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Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Thanks MAD

Has that 10,000 miles all been with the 790?
Yes, it has. It runs great!

Did the motoman break in. I recommend it.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:20 AM   #71860
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.Rob SNIP
Is the battery in question like the new Shorai Lithium-Iron (not Ion) batteries we hear so much about? The Shorai batts need to "warm up" from what I've read ... and actually come to life once other accessories are used. The battery actually gets stronger after some discharging. Weird.
Lithium-Ion uses a different technology to Lithium-Iron from what I understand ... but DON'T ask me to explain either right now. I do believe that
Lithium-Ion batts like to be maintained at 100% all the time. Not so much with Lithium-Iron.

I'm really surprised you DR charging system did not bring you batt back up to usable power just from running around. I've run stock batteries dead a couple times (too many accessories running with stock 55W headlight on). On both occasions just running 20 minutes with accessories OFF brought batt right back up and bike started perfectly.

Got to love Japanese electrics!

I am leaning towards the Japanese made Shorai. But I will wait a while yet ... maybe for the 2nd generation of this technology.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:21 AM   #71861
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Kudos to all for helping me resolve most of my carb issues but I still have some minor hwy speed surging and an ever so slight miss on idle. My question is needles and clips and spacer related. I have the DJ needle in there now with the clip in the 2nd position from the top and an aluminum d spacer between the clip and where it rests the the slide.
I ordered the 6f19 from Derek and a plastic washer to give a try, should I use the aluminum d spacer with the 6f19 needle or just the little stock plastic round one and what position for the clip. should the washer be under the clip or above it? I am seeing so many here I am kinda worried I may have put it in the wrong way.
A pic would be golden!
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:53 AM   #71862
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Kudos to all for helping me resolve most of my carb issues but I still have some minor hwy speed surging and an ever so slight miss on idle.
Are you able to kill the idling engine by closing the fuel screw? How about by opening it?

If the surging on the highway continues after installing the 6F19 needle, we will need to determine precisely at what opening this occurs. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle opening with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!
Quote:
I ordered the 6f19 from Derek and a plastic washer to give a try, should I use the aluminum d spacer with the 6f19 needle or just the little stock plastic round one and what position for the clip. should the washer be under the clip or above it?
Install the stock white plastic spacer under the clip of the 6F19 needle. Do not install the d-shaped aluminum washer.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:18 PM   #71863
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?
My shock is stock + 10w oil and 7.6kg/mm spring.

The Ricor shocks are very cheap at the moment.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:44 PM   #71864
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
As mentioned, these batteries need to warm up with the ignition on for a few minutes when its cold. I have no problem with my Ballistic 8-cell in cold weather if I let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the magic button.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:45 PM   #71865
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
As mentioned, these batteries need to warm up with the ignition on for a few minutes when its cold. I have no problem with my Ballistic 8-cell in cold weather if I let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the magic button.
I tried that... wasn't working so well. I still think this battery is undersized for my FZ1; a 12-cell in the DR650 would be ideal and would probably be just fine warming up for a bit.

Rob
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