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Old 12-17-2012, 06:02 PM   #71956
TrophyHunter
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Makes complete sense. Thx BD.
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:51 PM   #71957
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Originally Posted by macrae85 View Post
Thought i better show that mudguard since the Yanks lack choice in motorcycles!
All those shitty mud guards do when ridden in the mud we have here is get jammed up and stop the front wheel from turning. That's why REAL dirt bikes don't have the silly things
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:37 PM   #71958
ghollaba
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Used DR650SE, your thoughts

Would appreciate some input guys.

Getting back into riding after selling the 1150GS and wanting something used fro under $5,000.
Primary use back roads, 15 miles to work in good weather, dirt/gravel fire roads.
No toll roads, some highway but no long distances.

The DR650SE sits well, going to go ride one this week.

Is there a year to stay away from?
Anything to look for?

Would the dreaded ugly KLR650, "gasp" be a better jeep, ugly ugly bike...?

Appreciate it.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:49 PM   #71959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghollaba View Post
Would the dreaded ugly KLR650, "gasp" be a better jeep, ugly ugly bike...?.
It's certainly much uglier. But no way is it better. If you want lighter, simpler and less costly, go for the DR.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:20 PM   #71960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Agreed.

Re the NSU screws, the issue is that with numerous heating and cooling cycles the plastic shrinks a poofteenth and then the tension goes off the screws. A new bike should be tight.
I'm wondering if DR650's that are subject to real winter cold are far more prone to having the screws come out vs. a DR650, like mine, that has been a Florida bike all its life. At over 7k miles, while every other bolt on the exterior was coming out due to really high RPM riding I was doing for really fast commuting, my NSU screws were most likely just as tight as they were when new.

I was surprised, but now I'm not. I'm thinking that plastic of the NSU, itself, is what is shrinking in the colder climates and de-tensioning the screws.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:32 PM   #71961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The dyno says so. The dyno also says the GSXR can requires a smaller main jet for the best peak horsepower.
The GSXR 1000 makes 250cc exhaust pulses that are individually blasted out the exhaust. The DR650 makes much larger individual exhaust pulses that have to escape. The total horsepower has a lot less to to with breathing than the size of the individual bang that has to find its way out.

There's no doubt that the GSXR can breathes better than the stock DR muffler but it's really only about 60% of the improvement that can be had with a good aftermarket muffler.

And of course, the GSXR1000 can gain more than 10 HP by installing a better flowing exhaust. It's choked up by the stock exhaust just like the DR is. That's one reason why there used to be so many good take-off mufflers around.
Okay, so I have standard exhaust system plus I have a TM40............if I went and put a stainintune exhaust system on my bike, do you think there would be noticeable performance improvements. ? Just wondering, as I'm not entirely happy with the standard exhaust, apart from sounding like the proverbial sewing machine, it does feel as though its restricting the power potential.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:37 PM   #71962
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Eek Inside the mysterious GSXR muffler

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Well obviously Suzuki spent a lot more engineering time on the GSXR exhaust system because bike sales in that market live or die by horsepower numbers and quarter mile times. There's no incentive for Suzuki to optimize the DR muffler for performance.

All factory mufflers have to meet 80dB sound levels on the original bike. It's easier to muffle a smaller bang than a big one so the GSXR cans can be a little freer flowing and still meet sound requirements.

I haven't done any cutting and comparing. I don't know what good that information would do me but if anyone wants to send me their $200 GSXR muffler I'll be glad to run it through the bandsaw to see what makes it tick.

Maybe a Busa muffler flows better but then again the bigger bangs from the Busa motor will take more muffling to meet sound requirements. The only way to know would be to do back to back dyno testing.
Have you ever looked in a GSXR muffler?
It is really very interesting how simple it is.
You don't have to cut it open to see what makes it work.
You just have to look in both ends with a light.

It is just a simple two chamber design with staggered inlet and outlet tubes internally.
The size of the inner chamber tube is almost as large as the outlet tube.
It flows plenty of volume but it is not a straight through design so it creates back pressure waves reflecting back off the baffle plate. The pipe through the baffle plate is offset from center. It also sticks out into the first chamber as that minimizes the size of the sound/pressure wave that can travel unrestricted through the pipe. That internal pipe extends a few inches into the second chamber and just beyond the outlet pipe inner end. The interior of the can shell has a thin layer of sound mat covered with a thin perforated retainer. (not fiberglass, but I haven't cut one up yet to see what it is)

By pushing the leading edge of both the internal tube and the outlet tube in from flush with the baffle or end cap, they minimize the sound wave without slowing the flow. Similar to an expansion chamber on a two stroke can have the outlet pipe (we called them "stinger's" way back when) pushed inside the reverse cone and greatly reduce the sound level while maintaining the same power chart as a pipe with the same size stinger flush with the end of the reverse cone.

If, or when, you can shine a light inside both ends of the GSXR can and stick a tape measure in there you will appreciate how simple a device it really is. It will never flow as well as a straight through muffler so it will not work as well at higher rpm as the other (louder) mufflers.

I prefer the sound a fresh packed straight through muffler makes but I don't care to repack it every third ride.

I have a desire to cut open my spare GSXR muffler and remove the center baffle plate and inner chamber tube just to see how it sounds as a single chamber design.

So many projects, so little time...
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:49 PM   #71963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Okay, so I have standard exhaust system plus I have a TM40............if I went and put a stainintune exhaust system on my bike, do you think there would be noticeable performance improvements. ? Just wondering, as I'm not entirely happy with the standard exhaust, apart from sounding like the proverbial sewing machine, it does feel as though its restricting the power potential.
Yes, you would definitely notice the improvement going from the stock muffler to a Staintune. Probably good for around 3 HP which doesn't sound like much until you figure that's nearly 10%.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:23 PM   #71964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghollaba View Post
Would appreciate some input guys.

Getting back into riding after selling the 1150GS and wanting something used fro under $5,000.
Primary use back roads, 15 miles to work in good weather, dirt/gravel fire roads.
No toll roads, some highway but no long distances.

The DR650SE sits well, going to go ride one this week.

Is there a year to stay away from?
Anything to look for?

Would the dreaded ugly KLR650, "gasp" be a better jeep, ugly ugly bike...?

Appreciate it.
I like KLR's just fine. They need some TLC and good set up just like the DR650 does. Both are fine bikes for your purposes. The KLR is roomier and in stock form better for carrying stuff on or a passenger.

For a DR650 I would try for 2005 or newer. Buy from a "mature" rider if possible and preferably not a former Hare Scrambles racer Ride the bike and do whatever you do to check out a bike ... or bring a PRO along to help. Listen to motor, shift gears ... blah blah blah.

Look for tell tale signs of crashes or abuse ... like messed up engine side cases, bent levers or bashed in frame rails under engine, or dented rims, wobbly wheels, or big gashes under swing arm. A worn out chain, dirty oil or dirty air cleaner could indicate bike was not cared for. Look for mods improperly done like rerouted cables/wiring. Other than that? Consider the seller ... and who he is.

Other than those few things DR650's are pretty hard to kill. Really tough motor, requires little maintenance, very fun to ride once set up correctly.

A newer, low mileage bike is always better. But keep in mind a 9 year old can disconnect the Speedo cable so mileage may not tell you the whole story. Lots of really good aftermarket items to make the DR a MUCH better bike than stock. A better seat should top list of improvements, IMO.

Have fun.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:08 PM   #71965
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It took a few months, but I finally got my ugly stock '06 DR to look less like a giant banana :



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Old 12-17-2012, 11:30 PM   #71966
Thumper Dan
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thanks Jeff,

While your on the forum, I was curious if you ever bought Jays (jaminglobal) former motor which he blew up but was reconditioned just prior to his misfortune??

It would be good to know if this motor got back up and running and I remember reading you were going to buy it?? Not sure if you did though.

thanks
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Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:57 PM   #71967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
If LexTalionis is amenable to cutting the top of his airbox and upgrading the exhaust I'm still on board for this.

I'd much rather see the test bike have a DG or FMF muffler. My own testing says the GSXR can doesn't breathe quite as well as an aftermarket performance muffler.
Thanks for your offer, however I need to pass on installing an aftermarket exhaust canister. It would have been interesting to see how much the OEM setup could be improved with little more than the cost of jets and airbox alteration, and maybe create a kit for those of us who want to maximize the motor's efficiency/effectiveness without the cost of expensive aftermarket exhausts, for those DR riders who are generally cheap bastards such as myself (owned a KLR before the DR).

And settle this jet needle dispute between Derek and Jeff.

I like the exhaust tone of the OEM canister, my days of upsetting the neighbors with loud exhausts are over. Plus, now it's ME standing in my front yard shaking a fist at the Harleys that roll by with straight pipes!

Appears you have a good candidate with the appropriate exhaust living in S.F.

Lex
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:04 AM   #71968
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Is it cold in here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm wondering if DR650's that are subject to real winter cold are far more prone to having the screws come out vs. a DR650, like mine, that has been a Florida bike all its life. At over 7k miles, while every other bolt on the exterior was coming out due to really high RPM riding I was doing for really fast commuting, my NSU screws were most likely just as tight as they were when new.

I was surprised, but now I'm not. I'm thinking that plastic of the NSU, itself, is what is shrinking in the colder climates and de-tensioning the screws.
There is ALWAYS shrinkage in colder climates!!

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Old 12-18-2012, 12:36 AM   #71969
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Yep

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Instead of buying the smaller triangular front sprocket retainer to fit with 14t sprockets, can't you just cut the stock one down? Does anyone get what I'm saying here.
I get it and that's the way I feel too. Right from the start, I just ground down my stock retainer so the chain wouldn't contact its outer circumference when the 14T sprocket was fitted. Swapping and changing front sprocket sizes has never been an issue using stock retainer like this for over 40000km. Always use blue locktight on the three retainer bolts because they are soft and don't take much torque.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:37 AM   #71970
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm wondering if DR650's that are subject to real winter cold are far more prone to having the screws come out vs. a DR650, like mine, that has been a Florida bike all its life. At over 7k miles, while every other bolt on the exterior was coming out due to really high RPM riding I was doing for really fast commuting, my NSU screws were most likely just as tight as they were when new.

I was surprised, but now I'm not. I'm thinking that plastic of the NSU, itself, is what is shrinking in the colder climates and de-tensioning the screws.
The temp differentials between running and ambient is big enough without taking freezing style temps into account.

We may have a couple of overnight <0*C temps per year and both my DR's have had loose NSU screws (one had one missing)...
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