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Old 12-18-2012, 12:56 PM   #71986
AeroEngineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
What can you tell us about your headlight and cowl? Does not look stock ...
I like it! EDIT~ sorry, just read your above post! Thanks ... very nice looking upgrade to the DR650!
Haha, yeah just a KX450R cowl. I got the inspiration from Dongie's build here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654953

But didn't change out the forks and went with a Polisport Freeflow fender.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:58 PM   #71987
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Hi Folks,

Rick from Cogent here. Just to clarify a few points: The cogent re-engineering of the stock DR shock replaces all the internals in the main body of the OEM shock (including but not limited to:shaft,seal head, damping piston, shims, mounting clevis) we add adjustable rebound. The hard anodizing option adds longevity, keeps the oil cleaner and reduces friction in the shock. Our price of $399 includes installation. some customers self install the kit ($289 that way). We are also a RaceTech dealer and Center so we offer the race tech kit as well. Both are very good options at the high end of the upgrade ladder. The Cogent solution has been developed by Cogent Dynamics with the feedback and help from a lot of members of this forum. We can install gold valve kits in the stock DR650 shock for about $270 we offer a basic revalve and service of the stock DR650 shock that works great, starting at only $150 total. When ever we re-engineer or revalve a shock we test the work and calibration on a high end damper dynamometer so we know the shocks are working to our demanding specifications.

We have the "Bling Ring" (thanks to Joyce for that not so descriptive term..) that is a replacement CNC'd spring preload adjuster. The replacement adjuster works with stock and Eibach springs but can also be used to allow the mounting of a more standard 57mm ID spring. We also offer a total replacement shock series for the DR that uses no parts at all from your stock shock. Our replacement shock is $595 with rebound only and $995 with a remote reservoir and real compression adjustability. I hope this post is helpful in clarifying the options we provide. Thanks to all and Happy Hollidays! I plan to do some more "testing" of the DR next week if anyone wants to go for a ride here in the Asheville area!.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
205'd by Rusty

They add rebound damping.

Reusing our stock shock body keeps the remote oil resevoir, additional oil capacity adds to cooler running and longer service life. I have 27,xxx miles on my Cogent.

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NC Rick screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 01:02 PM Reason: forgot to mention about dyno testing
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:38 PM   #71988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroEngineer View Post
Haha, yeah just a KX450R cowl. I got the inspiration from Dongie's build here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654953

But didn't change out the forks and went with a Polisport Freeflow fender.
good lord that is an amazing DR!!!
that is what Suzuki should be releasing from the factory.

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Old 12-18-2012, 03:27 PM   #71989
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
good lord that is an amazing DR!!!
that is what Suzuki should be releasing from the factory.

Completely agree. The bike is a workhorse but the aesthetics are decades old. I'd bet by simply changing the front plastics a bit they could draw more sales.

Hell, if they upgraded to DRZ front forks they might even be able to justify a price increase. :P
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:59 PM   #71990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I would not really equate the KLR to the R1150GS. Really Apples & Oranges. Think Suzuki Samurai vs. Land Rover.

As I said above, a stock KLR is a better commuter/cargo carrier/two up bike than a stock DR650 ... but the DR is ultimately SMOOTHER than a KLR.

With a few mods to the DR650 you can add good wind protection, better seat, heated grips, lowered pegs and on and on. This brings the DR pretty close to the KLR for commuter/fire road duty. Performance wise you are correct ... pretty close once both have been opened up a bit ...

I prefer my DR650 over a KLR riding high speed highway at speeds around 75 mph. With a properly adjusted/loobed and aligned chain, good cush drive rubbers and bark busters (reduces vibes to hands) the DR is the smoother of the two, in my experience of riding them back to back. Done this with both the pre & post '08 KLR's.
I guess this depends on what generation KLR we're comparing. The 2nd gen KLR that I rode (2008, I believe) was a much better street bike purely based on protection from the elements. It's not just adding a wind screen. The KLR has significant body work that, while more vulnerable than the DR in a crash, provides good weather protection to the rider. I still love the DR to death, but it just sounded like the offroad capabilities of the thing weren't the primary concern. Of course the gen2 KLR isn't going to be as smooth as the BMW, but it's a whole separate price bracket. For riding around the desert and tackling a little harder offroad stuff, the DR is the better bike. It just sounded like what the OP needed was closer to a street bike with some dirt roads thrown in. With that in mind, I'd almost suggest the VStrom more than the other two.
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:01 PM   #71991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have a SuperTrapp IDS II w/ quiet core,that I was running with 6 discs. I put my stock silencer back on and I'm sooo happy with the quiet that it's staying. (been a bout 2 years now). I really couldn't feel the difference , in a "seat of the pants test". The only real benefit for me with the SuperTrapp was the weight savings up high. ('bout 8 lbs)
Dogjaw may not believe Jeff, but I know my DR put out noticeably more power once I installed the Procycle jet kit to go with the FMF Q slip-on the PO had installed. When I put the stock muff back on, it was WAY quieter, but there was definitely a drop in top-end. When I was running the FMF, another DR rider I know installed a DG slip-on and tuned his carb too, then was able to just barely outrun me on the top end. Naysayers can believe what they want, but I KNOW the FMF Qs and DGs flow better than stock. If you jet right and open the intake, to take advantage of the improved exhaust flow, you CAN notice more pull than stock. Do they flow better at the top end than the GSX-R? I don't know. I'll take Jeff's word for it, but I don't notice the difference with my uncalibrated butt-dyno. I'd rather have the mellowness and no-repack features of the GSX-R anyway. The all-out FMF and DG muffs definitely aren't for people using their DRs like I do, but the flow IS considerably more than stock.

I've ridden another DR with a GSX-R muff, and it seemed to pull similar to my FMF-piped DR in the mid-range. I didn't rev it out like I sometimes do to my bike, but the sound was just a bit louder than stock, and yet definitely not as harsh as the FMF or DG pipes. It was a mellow and deep sound...not unpleasant for me at all. If you open the intake and jet somewhat correctly for it, even a stock muff allows better pull than factory stock, and a GSX-R muff DOES flow better than a stock DR muff. If you aren't trying to get max top-end out of your DR, it's definitely worth a try out. The DG and GSX-R muffs also seem sturdier than the thin-walled aluminum of the FMF, and the DG comes apart easier for repacking.

Not having to repack is great when you rack up mileage, and I also try not to deafen my neighbors. The up-high weight savings with a GSX-R muff is nice too.
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:09 PM   #71992
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The dyno says so. The dyno also says the GSXR can requires a smaller main jet for the best peak horsepower.
The GSXR 1000 makes 250cc exhaust pulses that are individually blasted out the exhaust. The DR650 makes much larger individual exhaust pulses that have to escape. The total horsepower has a lot less to to with breathing than the size of the individual bang that has to find its way out.

There's no doubt that the GSXR can breathes better than the stock DR muffler but it's really only about 60% of the improvement that can be had with a good aftermarket muffler.

And of course, the GSXR1000 can gain more than 10 HP by installing a better flowing exhaust. It's choked up by the stock exhaust just like the DR is. That's one reason why there used to be so many good take-off mufflers around.
That makes sense, and I thank you for taking the time to educate me on this issue.
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:28 PM   #71993
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Originally Posted by ghollaba View Post
Would appreciate some input guys.

Getting back into riding after selling the 1150GS and wanting something used fro under $5,000.
Primary use back roads, 15 miles to work in good weather, dirt/gravel fire roads.
No toll roads, some highway but no long distances.

The DR650SE sits well, going to go ride one this week.

Is there a year to stay away from?
Anything to look for?

Would the dreaded ugly KLR650, "gasp" be a better jeep, ugly ugly bike...?

Appreciate it.
Both are heavy as a dirtbike, and light as a touring bike.

I'm 5'8"/200lb/30"inseam. In stock form, the KLR is more of a streetbike. IMO, the '96-present DR650SE quickly surpasses it, for ME, with a few intelligent mods though. If you're a big guy, and/or you're leaving your bike SHOWROOM stock, and/or you do a lot of 2up...the KLR may be a better choice for you. If you're around my size, if you carry a passenger much distance they're always petite, or if you're not averse to customizing/farkling your bikes...the DR can be a nicer bike for both bombing slab and riding trails.

I don't worry about revving my DR over 5K RPMs because of oil burning or vibes. I don't have an issue with wind, turbulence, or stability at 80MPH+. My gearspread is wide enough for trails or slab. I can pick my bike up solo, even with luggage on. I can touch the ground. I don't worry about a waterpump or a boiling radiator that can't be bypassed. I have 250 miles of range, and 400+ range is available. With knobs on, my DR runs sand fine. I don't really worry about breaking plastic in a drop. My valves can be adjusted anywhere without needing to swap shims. Suspension and REAL power upgrades are easy to come by. The bike is sturdy enough to carry a family of 5...and their groceries. Visit Thailand if you don't believe it.

It's just a little tight for 2 geared-for-distance westerners without some mods though, but Phreaky Phil and his wife did the TAT on a single DR. Airborne Andy even completed most of a Baja 1000 on a DR, and it's not really considered a racebike...or a dirtbike, for that matter. It's a dualsport...a bike that can run both trails and slab, and it is one of the better budget bikes at doing both simply and reliably. A screen isn't enough wind protection for you? Lower your pegs and tuck your knees behind some Aerostich tank panniers or similar. My DR travels slab better than my I-4 streetbike.

Kommando screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 05:49 PM
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:53 PM   #71994
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks guys - an ATV bend was what I was looking at last week. That site's listing of specs all together is pretty cool for the handlebars, but I've been downloading PDF's too. I had one picked out that I think was about 155mm high, but can't remember who made it now. Some ATV bars wouldn't work well due to the angles the wrists would be at, so I'm trying to be careful about that.
Check out Renthal 7/8" Jimmy Button bars or Renthal Fat RC High (NOT CR High).
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:16 PM   #71995
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Shhhhhhhh!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Both are heavy as a dirtbike, and light as a touring bike.

I'm 5'8"/200lb/30"inseam. In stock form, the KLR is more of a streetbike. IMO, the '96-present DR650SE quickly surpasses it, for ME, with a few intelligent mods though. If you're a big guy, and/or you're leaving your bike SHOWROOM stock, and/or you do a lot of 2up...the KLR may be a better choice for you. If you're around my size, if you carry a passenger much distance they're always petite, or if you're not averse to customizing/farkling your bikes...the DR can be a nicer bike for both bombing slab and riding trails.

I don't worry about revving my DR over 5K RPMs because of oil burning or vibes. I don't have an issue with wind, turbulence, or stability at 80MPH+. My gearspread is wide enough for trails or slab. I can pick my bike up solo, even with luggage on. I can touch the ground. I don't worry about a waterpump or a boiling radiator that can't be bypassed. I have 250 miles of range, and 400+ range is available. With knobs on, my DR runs sand fine. I don't really worry about breaking plastic in a drop. My valves can be adjusted anywhere without needing to swap shims. Suspension and REAL power upgrades are easy to come by. The bike is sturdy enough to carry a family of 5...and their groceries. Visit Thailand if you don't believe it.

It's just a little tight for 2 geared-for-distance westerners without some mods though, but Phreaky Phil and his wife did the TAT on a single DR. Airborne Andy even completed most of a Baja 1000 on a DR, and it's not really considered a racebike...or a dirtbike, for that matter. It's a dualsport...a bike that can run both trails and slab, and it is one of the better budget bikes at doing both simply and reliably. A screen isn't enough wind protection for you? Lower your pegs and tuck your knees behind some Aerostich tank panniers or similar. My DR travels slab better than my I-4 streetbike.
Exactly why I love my DR650, but this kind of talk will only add $$ to the prices on Craigslist! So, let's keep it our secret.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:27 PM   #71996
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520 conversion, yay or nay?
I was about to order the Drivetrain kit from Procycle as my lower roller is pretty worn and my chain and sprockets are toast at 19,000 miles and it comes with cush rubbers and some bolts for the rear sprocket. I don't really care for the locking axle nut, is this all I need? how about 16/42, does it suck off road?

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:45 PM   #71997
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
520 conversion, yay or nay?
I was about to order the Drivetrain kit from Procycle as my lower roller is pretty worn and my chain and sprockets are toast at 19,000 miles and it comes with cush rubbers and some bolts for the rear sprocket. I don't really care for the locking axle nut, is this all I need? how about 16/42, does it suck off road?

I'm not a fan of the 520 conversion. Smaller, less wear surfaces, wears out faster. Their advantage is that there are more rear sprocket gearing selections available. If you're sure of the gearing you want and can't find it, the 520 may have what you want.

I bought the locking axle nut and I hated it. Every time I took it off, it took another cut off the threads on my axle. If I'd had it on earlier, the threads on my axle would be toast.

I really like the 16t countershaft sprocket. It drops the rpm of the motor to a level where the engine is completely comfortable at 75 mph. Many inmates are happy with the 15/42 but that spins the motor up too high for me. I ran a 16t last year on a trip in San Diego. It was like having overdrive, using 1st thru 4th for most riding and using 5th as an overdrive on the many highway miles that we rode to get to dirt. And since I was almost 6,000 feet lower than in Denver, the DR pulled the 16t with ease.

Disclaimer: I did not ride to San Diego, I put the DR in the truck where it belonged.

Welcome to Lake Tahoe:



On the way east out of Nevado on hwy 50, there were miles and miles and many more miles of ice. Hope yer not in a hurry.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 11:04 PM
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:55 PM   #71998
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did the 16 tooth make off road riding in 1st cumbersome?
I would rather go with the 525 but the $$ of the 520 works for me right now, the kit comes with cush rubbers too and mine are worn.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:09 PM   #71999
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Don't pass up a good deal.

Unless the offroad was easy forest roads, the 16t is pretty tall. So much so that I didn't like getting caught in traffic; too much clutch slipping to get rolling after a complete stop.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:22 PM   #72000
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most of my offroading is forest roads or jeep or as they say here in FL path to the ole fishing hole roads so I may just stick with stock gearing. I commute 75 miles or so a day but most of it is 2 lane and very seldom get it up to freeway speed. thanks for the info and love the pics!
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