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Old 12-18-2012, 09:56 AM   #71986
LucasLeader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.

Edited: Look into ATV bends. I thought the ATV bends were really narrow but I was wrong. They look to have the most rise.

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:02 AM   #71987
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Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Nicely done. I just put that same front fender on in my change over from blue to all white. Same Gen II Wolfman set up, too.

Thanks! I've noticed the polisport fender is a lot more aerodynamic than the original. It should allow a lot more air to get to the oil cooler, too.

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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Looks amazing! So what headlight are you running on it? It almost looks like you took the light off a KLX250.
Close... It's a Kawasaki KX450r (2009) headlamp. It looks a lot better than the stock 90's style dirtbike fairing.

It was a fairly straightforward mod. Just had to relocate the indicator lamps and turn signals, reverse the front turn signal brackets, and make a simple bracket out of some 1" aluminum angle stock. A handful of bushing/bolts/washers puts it all together.

http://imgur.com/wRrZY
http://imgur.com/p5XT2
http://imgur.com/s4kzp
http://imgur.com/iU1wT
http://imgur.com/FrJaz

The KX450R headlamp/fairing is a bit smaller than the KLX one, but still allows for a lot of spare room behind the shroud for the wiring harness and any other cabling.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:14 AM   #71988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
Edited: Look into ATV bends. I thought the ATV bends were really narrow but I was wrong. They look to have the most rise.

Thanks guys - an ATV bend was what I was looking at last week. That site's listing of specs all together is pretty cool for the handlebars, but I've been downloading PDF's too. I had one picked out that I think was about 155mm high, but can't remember who made it now. Some ATV bars wouldn't work well due to the angles the wrists would be at, so I'm trying to be careful about that.

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:31 AM   #71989
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I use the Protaper ATV high bars, have on 3 bikes, a great dual sport bar.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:46 AM   #71990
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Originally Posted by AeroEngineer View Post
It took a few months, but I finally got my ugly stock '06 DR to look less like a giant banana :

What can you tell us about your headlight and cowl? Does not look stock ...
I like it! EDIT~ sorry, just read your above post! Thanks ... very nice looking upgrade to the DR650!

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Old 12-18-2012, 11:12 AM   #71991
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The KLR will be much more like the 1150GS. If all you're doing is commuting with some light dirt and gravel roads, I would recommend the KLR over the DR. The KLR is going to be a much better commuting/highway machine as the wind protection is noticeably better. If you're just doing dirt roads and fire roads, the DR doesn't exactly walk away from the KLR. The guy I used to ride with was on a KLR for a couple years before upgrading to a Tiger 800, and I was never really able to get away from him when I was on the DR. When the trails got tighter and more technical, I had the advantage, but I would gladly have traded bikes as soon as we got back on the pavement.
I would not really equate the KLR to the R1150GS. Really Apples & Oranges. Think Suzuki Samurai vs. Land Rover.

As I said above, a stock KLR is a better commuter/cargo carrier/two up bike than a stock DR650 ... but the DR is ultimately SMOOTHER than a KLR.

With a few mods to the DR650 you can add good wind protection, better seat, heated grips, lowered pegs and on and on. This brings the DR pretty close to the KLR for commuter/fire road duty. Performance wise you are correct ... pretty close once both have been opened up a bit ...

I prefer my DR650 over a KLR riding high speed highway at speeds around 75 mph. With a properly adjusted/loobed and aligned chain, good cush drive rubbers and bark busters (reduces vibes to hands) the DR is the smoother of the two, in my experience of riding them back to back. Done this with both the pre & post '08 KLR's.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:20 AM   #71992
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I switched bikes with a friend at an Adventure Ride. He was on a 2003 KLR650 that had been farkled to make it a better trail bike. I was on my equally farlked DR650. It was an easy trail, but an optional "Hero" section. There were a few rocky climbs and some slippery stuff. I couldn't wait to trade back. He said , as we switched back, "I gotta get one of these".

On the road, not a big difference for a one day event. Maybe if the road was 80% of my riding, it would be OK, but I'm 80% trails so the DR is way better for my application.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:29 AM   #71993
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Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I just want to add some to the muffler debate.

I think you guys are missing a point: an engine is nothing more than an air pump. The more air you can get in it the more fuel you can add the more HP you get. Simple right?

While everyone is correct that a 650cc pulse of exhaust is harder to quiet then a 250cc pulse- you are missing the most important part of engine dynamics= airflow.

Doing the rough math:

A DR650 with a CFM efficiency of .7 (basic figure for carb 4 cycle engine) flows 56.1 CFM
A GSXR1000 with efficiency of .9 (basic fuel injection 4 cycle engine) flows 190 CFM!

That is about 3.5 times as much air goes through the GSXR as the DR (at max RPM). Even with two mufflers the GSXR mufflers were DESIGNED to flow more air per muffler then the DR engine flows.

How much air per pulse really has nothing to do with HP numbers; only dB.

Also, on a side note. When designing or selecting an air filter they recommend a filter that flows 2 times the air the engine requires.
Yep. I played with CFM type numbers to see if I was restricting my 350 by putting a 250 pipe on. Turned out the WR250F at peak torque was flowing the same as my TT350 at peak torque.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:34 PM   #71994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.
I'm using Pro Taper Atv-mid SE bars with stock cables.
I flipped the throttle so the cable come out the bottom and rerouted the clutch cable. They are very comfortable and combined with Pro Cycle lower pegs awesome when standing up.
http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se

I've tried the ATV highs but they have much pullback/sweep (see line E) than i like and my wrists are bent from a natural position and hurt after a bit. I had a KLR before and liked the bars/riding on those and wanted to recreate that riding. The ATV mids are a match for the KLR bars. Then after that I wanted less knee bend like the KLR and that was done by dropping the foot pegs down.

The CR HI bar is considered by many as the gold standard in comfort so look at the pullback on that bar. I've used it on my XR400 and loved it for dirtbike riding. I had risers http://pitposse.com/ourabiunbarr.html on there too as i like taller bars for standing comfort .

The reason the ATV mid pullback works (even though it's more than CR Hi) work me is they are wider and thus get my wrist in a nice natural position. I think i read that human wrists (hand center-line ie holding onto to a bar) are naturally 10 degrees.

Look down at your hands in a relaxed position and then hold your grips and see what the wrists are doing. If your hand is moved too much left or right of that natural relaxed position than your wrists will hurt after a bit of riding. Everyone is different of course. See if you can find a shop that stocks alot of Protapers and hold them out. You can't take #s from one mfg and compare to another however as they are all different.

If you do find an ideal comfort bar there is nothing wrong with using risers. Like i said on my XR it was CR HI and then i went up with risers.

http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:56 PM   #71995
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
What can you tell us about your headlight and cowl? Does not look stock ...
I like it! EDIT~ sorry, just read your above post! Thanks ... very nice looking upgrade to the DR650!
Haha, yeah just a KX450R cowl. I got the inspiration from Dongie's build here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654953

But didn't change out the forks and went with a Polisport Freeflow fender.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:58 PM   #71996
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Hi Folks,

Rick from Cogent here. Just to clarify a few points: The cogent re-engineering of the stock DR shock replaces all the internals in the main body of the OEM shock (including but not limited to:shaft,seal head, damping piston, shims, mounting clevis) we add adjustable rebound. The hard anodizing option adds longevity, keeps the oil cleaner and reduces friction in the shock. Our price of $399 includes installation. some customers self install the kit ($289 that way). We are also a RaceTech dealer and Center so we offer the race tech kit as well. Both are very good options at the high end of the upgrade ladder. The Cogent solution has been developed by Cogent Dynamics with the feedback and help from a lot of members of this forum. We can install gold valve kits in the stock DR650 shock for about $270 we offer a basic revalve and service of the stock DR650 shock that works great, starting at only $150 total. When ever we re-engineer or revalve a shock we test the work and calibration on a high end damper dynamometer so we know the shocks are working to our demanding specifications.

We have the "Bling Ring" (thanks to Joyce for that not so descriptive term..) that is a replacement CNC'd spring preload adjuster. The replacement adjuster works with stock and Eibach springs but can also be used to allow the mounting of a more standard 57mm ID spring. We also offer a total replacement shock series for the DR that uses no parts at all from your stock shock. Our replacement shock is $595 with rebound only and $995 with a remote reservoir and real compression adjustability. I hope this post is helpful in clarifying the options we provide. Thanks to all and Happy Hollidays! I plan to do some more "testing" of the DR next week if anyone wants to go for a ride here in the Asheville area!.
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
205'd by Rusty

They add rebound damping.

Reusing our stock shock body keeps the remote oil resevoir, additional oil capacity adds to cooler running and longer service life. I have 27,xxx miles on my Cogent.

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NC Rick screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 01:02 PM Reason: forgot to mention about dyno testing
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:38 PM   #71997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroEngineer View Post
Haha, yeah just a KX450R cowl. I got the inspiration from Dongie's build here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654953

But didn't change out the forks and went with a Polisport Freeflow fender.
good lord that is an amazing DR!!!
that is what Suzuki should be releasing from the factory.

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Old 12-18-2012, 03:27 PM   #71998
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good lord that is an amazing DR!!!
that is what Suzuki should be releasing from the factory.

Completely agree. The bike is a workhorse but the aesthetics are decades old. I'd bet by simply changing the front plastics a bit they could draw more sales.

Hell, if they upgraded to DRZ front forks they might even be able to justify a price increase. :P
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:59 PM   #71999
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I would not really equate the KLR to the R1150GS. Really Apples & Oranges. Think Suzuki Samurai vs. Land Rover.

As I said above, a stock KLR is a better commuter/cargo carrier/two up bike than a stock DR650 ... but the DR is ultimately SMOOTHER than a KLR.

With a few mods to the DR650 you can add good wind protection, better seat, heated grips, lowered pegs and on and on. This brings the DR pretty close to the KLR for commuter/fire road duty. Performance wise you are correct ... pretty close once both have been opened up a bit ...

I prefer my DR650 over a KLR riding high speed highway at speeds around 75 mph. With a properly adjusted/loobed and aligned chain, good cush drive rubbers and bark busters (reduces vibes to hands) the DR is the smoother of the two, in my experience of riding them back to back. Done this with both the pre & post '08 KLR's.
I guess this depends on what generation KLR we're comparing. The 2nd gen KLR that I rode (2008, I believe) was a much better street bike purely based on protection from the elements. It's not just adding a wind screen. The KLR has significant body work that, while more vulnerable than the DR in a crash, provides good weather protection to the rider. I still love the DR to death, but it just sounded like the offroad capabilities of the thing weren't the primary concern. Of course the gen2 KLR isn't going to be as smooth as the BMW, but it's a whole separate price bracket. For riding around the desert and tackling a little harder offroad stuff, the DR is the better bike. It just sounded like what the OP needed was closer to a street bike with some dirt roads thrown in. With that in mind, I'd almost suggest the VStrom more than the other two.
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:01 PM   #72000
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have a SuperTrapp IDS II w/ quiet core,that I was running with 6 discs. I put my stock silencer back on and I'm sooo happy with the quiet that it's staying. (been a bout 2 years now). I really couldn't feel the difference , in a "seat of the pants test". The only real benefit for me with the SuperTrapp was the weight savings up high. ('bout 8 lbs)
Dogjaw may not believe Jeff, but I know my DR put out noticeably more power once I installed the Procycle jet kit to go with the FMF Q slip-on the PO had installed. When I put the stock muff back on, it was WAY quieter, but there was definitely a drop in top-end. When I was running the FMF, another DR rider I know installed a DG slip-on and tuned his carb too, then was able to just barely outrun me on the top end. Naysayers can believe what they want, but I KNOW the FMF Qs and DGs flow better than stock. If you jet right and open the intake, to take advantage of the improved exhaust flow, you CAN notice more pull than stock. Do they flow better at the top end than the GSX-R? I don't know. I'll take Jeff's word for it, but I don't notice the difference with my uncalibrated butt-dyno. I'd rather have the mellowness and no-repack features of the GSX-R anyway. The all-out FMF and DG muffs definitely aren't for people using their DRs like I do, but the flow IS considerably more than stock.

I've ridden another DR with a GSX-R muff, and it seemed to pull similar to my FMF-piped DR in the mid-range. I didn't rev it out like I sometimes do to my bike, but the sound was just a bit louder than stock, and yet definitely not as harsh as the FMF or DG pipes. It was a mellow and deep sound...not unpleasant for me at all. If you open the intake and jet somewhat correctly for it, even a stock muff allows better pull than factory stock, and a GSX-R muff DOES flow better than a stock DR muff. If you aren't trying to get max top-end out of your DR, it's definitely worth a try out. The DG and GSX-R muffs also seem sturdier than the thin-walled aluminum of the FMF, and the DG comes apart easier for repacking.

Not having to repack is great when you rack up mileage, and I also try not to deafen my neighbors. The up-high weight savings with a GSX-R muff is nice too.
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