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Old 12-20-2012, 02:08 PM   #72046
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
On second thought, K&N filter oil is meant for gauze, and may not be the best for use on foam. I can tell you that it's nowhere near as tacky as the foam filter oils I'm familiar with.

Regards,

Derek
If you can't get foam filter oil, chainsaw bar oil is good, they are madly cutting down the forests in SE Asia so might be available. Next best is automotive gear oil which I'd assume is available most anywhere.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:39 PM   #72047
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosley1980 View Post
HI I've seen this type that cracking...
Therefore, I introduced a slight improvement
MORE INFO HERE AT XT600E THREAD

If you want more info - look the forum vendor section
How about you show us pics of your DR pegs and post the prices here, instead of linking to random other forums with no costs or mention of the DR?


PS - pegs look nice!
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:14 PM   #72048
805gregg
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I got a pair of those cheap, chinese junk foot pegs, they looked like pot metal, I wouldn't even put them on my bike, I couldn't imagine how it would feel when I was standing on them and they failed. I mounted Fastway, a good American product.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:25 PM   #72049
opium89
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Does anyone know where I can buy a starter for a 2000 model for a good price? Aftermarket or rebuilt is preferred given the price of a new one. The dealer tried to get me one, but it's totally the wrong part. And don't even suggest eBay unless you've personally had a good experience. Their feedback is atrocious.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:33 PM   #72050
PPCLI-Jim
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there was a stock stator for sale in the flea market under DR 650 parts for sale, Ill try to dig it up for you and send a PM
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:38 PM   #72051
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
there was a stock stator for sale in the flea market under DR 650 parts for sale, Ill try to dig it up for you and send a PM

Starter, stator....whatever it takes.

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #72052
VooDooDaddy
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Location: SW Iowa
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Random shit

Hey Fellas,

Been breathing some life back into a still nice, but somewhat neglected 2000 model. Thought I'd share a tip, but with 72,000+ replies, it prolly has been mentioned before?

Recently bought and have used this Metal Rescue on some much neglected parts of the my DR650. Gotta give them props. The stuff works great. Pics of the rear axle; they were so coated with grey, furry oxidation that I couldn't read the numbers indented into the metal graduation/snails. After an overnight soak in the metal rescue: As good as new. Seems to work on other non-ferrous metals as well. Stripped the brake calipers and brackets, soaked them overnight in Metal Rescue after a bath in soapy water. Like new (sorry no pix).

Anyway good stuff. After pix of the rear axle:



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Old 12-20-2012, 06:03 PM   #72053
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Hey Fellas,

Been breathing some life back into a still nice, but somewhat neglected 2000 model. Thought I'd share a tip, but with 72,000+ replies, it prolly has been mentioned before?

Recently bought and have used this Metal Rescue on some much neglected parts of the my DR650. Gotta give them props. The stuff works great. Pics of the rear axle; they were so coated with grey, furry oxidation that I couldn't read the numbers indented into the metal graduation/snails. After an overnight soak in the metal rescue: As good as new. Seems to work on other non-ferrous metals as well. Stripped the brake calipers and brackets, soaked them overnight in Metal Rescue after a bath in soapy water. Like new (sorry no pix).

Anyway good stuff. After pix of the rear axle:



Looks nice - what is that, an acid?
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:03 PM   #72054
VooDooDaddy
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I'm Impacted...!

And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:05 PM   #72055
VooDooDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Looks nice - what is that, an acid?
No. I don't know what it is, but its completely safe on the hands, rags; you name it. I had my bare hands covered in the stuff. Almost no smell, no fumes, completely harmless to everything except rust!
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:14 PM   #72056
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

Been there, done that.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:33 PM   #72057
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

Helps if you try to crack it loose when the motor is good and hot. Then a little anti seize on the threads makes it easier next time.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:49 PM   #72058
BergDonk
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TDC Compression

If you leave the plugs in the cover, all you need to do when doing the valves is remove the valve covers, get a plastic drinking straw and put it down a plug hole, after cleaning around and removing a plug. Then rotate the crank by turning the rear wheel with the bike in gear, say 4th and after the inlet valves close and the straw stops rising you have TDC on compression. Easy, and works on all motors, not just DRs. It does not have to be a perfect TDC, all you want is the follower on the base circle of the cam, and TDC compression will give you both, and avoid any issues with the decomp on the exhaust..
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #72059
VooDooDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
If you leave the plugs in the cover, all you need to do when doing the valves is remove the valve covers, get a plastic drinking straw and put it down a plug hole, after cleaning around and removing a plug. Then rotate the crank by turning the rear wheel with the bike in gear, say 4th and after the inlet valves close and the straw stops rising you have TDC on compression. Easy, and works on all motors, not just DRs. It does not have to be a perfect TDC, all you want is the follower on the base circle of the cam, and TDC compression will give you both, and avoid any issues with the decomp on the exhaust..
Exactly! That's what I had to resort to just a couple weeks ago. I just put my finger over the plug hole and waited for the piston to come up while watching all the valves were closed. Yes, as long as the followers on on the base circle of the cam, it doesn't have to be at exactly TDC.

When I put the new plug and O-ring back in, I used copper/anti-seize (even though same metal/alum) and just put it back in little more than finger tight. Now I can do the valve checks perfectly and I don't have a rounded out inspection plug.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:33 PM   #72060
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
I got a pair of those cheap, chinese junk foot pegs, they looked like pot metal, I wouldn't even put them on my bike, I couldn't imagine how it would feel when I was standing on them and they failed. I mounted Fastway, a good American product.
Been running the cheap Chinese pegs on the TT350, DR650, XR250 and my bro runs them on his TT350.

3 years or so now with no problems.

Bro is local cross country champ and mx's the TT at VMX events...
He likes them and runs pivot pegs on his RM250.
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