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Old 12-19-2012, 03:12 PM   #72046
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Is the battery in question like the new Shorai Lithium-Iron (not Ion) batteries we hear so much about? The Shorai batts need to "warm up" from what I've read ... and actually come to life once other accessories are used. The battery actually gets stronger after some discharging. Weird.
Lithium-Ion uses a different technology to Lithium-Iron from what I understand ... but DON'T ask me to explain either right now. I do believe that
Lithium-Ion batts like to be maintained at 100% all the time. Not so much with Lithium-Iron.

I'm really surprised you DR charging system did not bring you batt back up to usable power just from running around. I've run stock batteries dead a couple times (too many accessories running with stock 55W headlight on). On both occasions just running 20 minutes with accessories OFF brought batt right back up and bike started perfectly.

Got to love Japanese electrics!

I am leaning towards the Japanese made Shorai. But I will wait a while yet ... maybe for the 2nd generation of this technology.
I've tried two Shorai's and won't be using any new tech batteries anymore. I had a Shorai in my CBF1000 and like Rob it wouldn't start the bike on cold mornings and cold meaning 50F in the morning in AZ. The last thing I thought I had to worry about last winter in AZ was my frigging battery. Battery died in my wife's DR200 so I put a new Shorai in that. We were on a tough dual sport ride with lots of starts/stops and the battery died and the bike needed to be bump started for the final day and all the way home. A few times with the battery fully charged, after a brief stop the bike would be completely dead, necessitating a bump start and then behave normally for the rest of the ride. And no it wasn't just a loose connection. Bikes been running fine with a good old lead acid battery back in it. Good article on the new batteries here, very technical but sill a good read...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
Bottom line is I don't think these batteries are ready for dual sporting, at least for me.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:22 PM   #72047
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Multisurface Rider View Post
The bike belonged to to Curtis at the time of vid. He bought it from one of the other guys (Will) in the vid.

The bike now resides in my garage, I bought it from Curtis.
Thanks for replying!

I think hat a few of us would like to see is how that dash was built.

Do you ever take it off, and could you take pictures of it?

He did a great job.
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:00 PM   #72048
Ridin'nFishin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks for replying!

I think hat a few of us would like to see is how that dash was built.

Do you ever take it off, and could you take pictures of it?

He did a great job.

I like it also, gives you a little more room.

I did have it off and modified it a little. I cut the top plate to mount the speedo and the key switch back in the original place so I could use the sterring lock and the speedo is straight now.

It is a good idea and pretty simple to make with some flat alu. plate and some alu. angle. I can take some pictures later.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:41 PM   #72049
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
That all sounds good,but. I put a decent quality set of 520 chain/sprockets on my DR and they have about 14000 on them and still look great,thats with hammering the bike in some dual purpose rides where it had no business . Ive adjusted it maybe twice? Quality being the key word here.

If there was some sort of problem on a trip and you have to buy a chain or masterlink,520 is at every shop. 525 is not.
Sounds good. And quality really is the KEY word! What sort of chain did you go with? The new 520 DID VX, X ring chains look good. First year DID made X ring in 520 sizes.

Its true, 520 sizes are more common not only in the USA but in Latin America too. Thing is ... if I'm going to South America, I would start with ALL new chain/sprockets and carrying spare set of sprockets on board:
(I rear, 3 front).

With luck that gets you all the way to Tierra del Fuego and part way back home. (25,000 miles) More and more MC shops down South catering to ADV riders.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:43 PM   #72050
Ren20
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Pictures would be great. That's a sweet bike and sweet setup
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:49 PM   #72051
DisTech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish" ???
How about Pennywise - Perfect People?

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DisTech screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 06:59 PM
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:53 PM   #72052
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
Bottom line is I don't think these batteries are ready for dual sporting, at least for me.
Thanks for the First Person comments. WoW! By now I've read quite a few problem reports with these batteries. In some cases the batt was faulty and Shorai replaced it free. But if problems are common then might be best to hold off at least until next generation.

I think we will get there on this type of battery ... eventually!
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:01 PM   #72053
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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DisTech rocks!! And so do the tunes.
Glad to see that you're still checkin' in. Your earlier DR posts showed me how to contribute to the thread.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:27 PM   #72054
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Funny how terrain will dictate gearing. I ride in rocks. Lots of baseball to basketball sized rocks. Almost never level terrain.

I have ridden my DR thropugh this "road". Google "Old Florida Road" to see Jeeps have trouble makin' it.

Watch part duex if you want the worst stuff right away.




I use 14/42 sprockets with 520 oring chain. I carry a 13 tooth sprocket in my tool pack in case I need to lower my gearing. I have never had to put it on.

I did put a 15 tooth sprocket (stock gearing)on for a trip I took down the Skyline Drive and the BlueRidgeParkway. I think that was a good idea, but I went back to 14/42 as soon as I got home. The "thrust" I get when I crack the throttle is way better with the lower gearing. I can loft the front wheel with throttle alone in first and second. Third if I use my body.

Terrain dictates gearing. I personally feel that 16/42 is too high, but I never ride that kind of terrain.
The DR will definitely sap your energy. Its pretty much fine for me.. until im on some narrow track and need to turn it around (track ends). If its loose sand, mud or rocks, it is a big pain to move around. Any mods suspension wise to your bike here?

I have to wonder how the WR250R would do on that second section. I know this is the DR thread, but really it boils down to engine (DR) vs. lightweight/better suspension (WR). I cant imagine trying to tackle rocks like that on a bike with so little torque- how would you keep the RPMs up without moving fast deflecting hard off the rocks? The DR seems good at slow stuff in first, so long as mud doesnt enter the picture.

Tossing around picking up a WR as a stablemate for the DR
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:53 PM   #72055
Cobain
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Some nice ebay pegs, $19 shipped

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Old 12-20-2012, 04:09 AM   #72056
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You don't have oil for your main air filter? Or maybe you are using motor oil on that as well. The problem with motor oil as opposed to proper air filter oil is it tends to drain out the lowest point of the filter so the filter has to be serviced more often.
In any case, I'm sure you could use motor oil on the secondary filter without getting any oil significant amount of oil into the top of the carb.
using proper filter oil on the main filter but running it as a long time between cleaning and oiling operation. i run the stock filter (simple and after trying other intake filter i didnt really feel there was any benefit except with the unifilter, but then i got scared off that when i saw the video of it letting water through after being oiled with notoil i think) nicely oiled with filter oil and wrapped with a pool filter sock that is also oiled. sitting in the bottom of the air box in a plastic zip loc bag are another 6 or 7 ready oiled pool filter socks and another oiled foam air filter that is in a plastic bag and wrapped up tight with tape to keep it from expanding and taking up all the airbox space. my maintenance routine is to check the air filter every oil change (or before if riding particularly dusty conditions) and if the filter sock is looking a little worse for wear, peel it off along with the majority of the dirt captured there, slip a new one over the reasonably clean foam filter and pop the old one into a separate zip lock bag inside the airbox. the spare air filter is there incase everything goes pear shaped with the original one. then when i manage to find somewhere that knows what air filter oil is, out comes the dirty filter and socks, everything washed in petrol, allowed to dry, re lubed and put back in the right place.

i found a husky dealer here selling belray oil a few days ago so everything got a refresh but that setup lasted me 40 000km without needing to buy anything and probably could have gone another 20 or 30 000 more. you gotta remember im currently in SE Asia and its pretty normal to completely remove airboxes and filters on just about any bike here so even trying to find someone that know what an air filter is can be difficult, let alone the right kind of oil.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:15 AM   #72057
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This has worked well for me, but I don't ride in extreme dust conditions. Even when completely dirty, there is no dust in the tube, or top of carb. It's easily cleaned and re-oiled. Idea by Rusty Rocket.

More info here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=82

this looks like it could work out nicely with a little piece of oiled stocking tied around the inlet or even just stuffed into the housing as a rudimentary prefilter. easily replaceable and easier to wash than the pleated unifilter design.
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Australia to Iceland on a DR650 http://oztoice.wordpress.com
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #72058
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
K&N has these little guys:



Not counting the spout, they measure about 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1".

Regards,

Derek
and this is pretty much the answer to my prayers. ive had enough of spraying a small amount of lube into a bottle, wait for the foam to settle and gas to release and then spray again. takes ages to get a reasonable amount of oil from a pressurised can into a bottle and get the gas out. sitting the unpressurised bottle in boiling water accelerated the process though.

i dont suppose you Derek or Jeff at procycle sell these little beauties?
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"One must die sometime and to die with ones boots on is very noble" - Carl Stearns Clancy, first RTW motorcycle, 1912-13

Australia to Iceland on a DR650 http://oztoice.wordpress.com
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:27 AM   #72059
DockingPilot
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Location: Andover, N.J.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
this looks like it could work out nicely with a little piece of oiled stocking tied around the inlet or even just stuffed into the housing as a rudimentary prefilter. easily replaceable and easier to wash than the pleated unifilter design.
Cut the pool skimmer basket sock to fit this and rubber band it on. I did that with the K&N. I took this stock pod filter and fit it on the other unfiltered hose. Not sure if it accomplishes anything but what the hay.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:31 AM   #72060
dogjaw
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 2,740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Some nice ebay pegs, $19 shipped

I have had these on my DR for over a year; 19.99 well spent
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