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Old 12-19-2012, 07:27 PM   #72046
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Funny how terrain will dictate gearing. I ride in rocks. Lots of baseball to basketball sized rocks. Almost never level terrain.

I have ridden my DR thropugh this "road". Google "Old Florida Road" to see Jeeps have trouble makin' it.

Watch part duex if you want the worst stuff right away.




I use 14/42 sprockets with 520 oring chain. I carry a 13 tooth sprocket in my tool pack in case I need to lower my gearing. I have never had to put it on.

I did put a 15 tooth sprocket (stock gearing)on for a trip I took down the Skyline Drive and the BlueRidgeParkway. I think that was a good idea, but I went back to 14/42 as soon as I got home. The "thrust" I get when I crack the throttle is way better with the lower gearing. I can loft the front wheel with throttle alone in first and second. Third if I use my body.

Terrain dictates gearing. I personally feel that 16/42 is too high, but I never ride that kind of terrain.
The DR will definitely sap your energy. Its pretty much fine for me.. until im on some narrow track and need to turn it around (track ends). If its loose sand, mud or rocks, it is a big pain to move around. Any mods suspension wise to your bike here?

I have to wonder how the WR250R would do on that second section. I know this is the DR thread, but really it boils down to engine (DR) vs. lightweight/better suspension (WR). I cant imagine trying to tackle rocks like that on a bike with so little torque- how would you keep the RPMs up without moving fast deflecting hard off the rocks? The DR seems good at slow stuff in first, so long as mud doesnt enter the picture.

Tossing around picking up a WR as a stablemate for the DR
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:53 PM   #72047
Cobain
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Location: Spokane
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Some nice ebay pegs, $19 shipped

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Old 12-20-2012, 04:09 AM   #72048
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You don't have oil for your main air filter? Or maybe you are using motor oil on that as well. The problem with motor oil as opposed to proper air filter oil is it tends to drain out the lowest point of the filter so the filter has to be serviced more often.
In any case, I'm sure you could use motor oil on the secondary filter without getting any oil significant amount of oil into the top of the carb.
using proper filter oil on the main filter but running it as a long time between cleaning and oiling operation. i run the stock filter (simple and after trying other intake filter i didnt really feel there was any benefit except with the unifilter, but then i got scared off that when i saw the video of it letting water through after being oiled with notoil i think) nicely oiled with filter oil and wrapped with a pool filter sock that is also oiled. sitting in the bottom of the air box in a plastic zip loc bag are another 6 or 7 ready oiled pool filter socks and another oiled foam air filter that is in a plastic bag and wrapped up tight with tape to keep it from expanding and taking up all the airbox space. my maintenance routine is to check the air filter every oil change (or before if riding particularly dusty conditions) and if the filter sock is looking a little worse for wear, peel it off along with the majority of the dirt captured there, slip a new one over the reasonably clean foam filter and pop the old one into a separate zip lock bag inside the airbox. the spare air filter is there incase everything goes pear shaped with the original one. then when i manage to find somewhere that knows what air filter oil is, out comes the dirty filter and socks, everything washed in petrol, allowed to dry, re lubed and put back in the right place.

i found a husky dealer here selling belray oil a few days ago so everything got a refresh but that setup lasted me 40 000km without needing to buy anything and probably could have gone another 20 or 30 000 more. you gotta remember im currently in SE Asia and its pretty normal to completely remove airboxes and filters on just about any bike here so even trying to find someone that know what an air filter is can be difficult, let alone the right kind of oil.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:15 AM   #72049
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This has worked well for me, but I don't ride in extreme dust conditions. Even when completely dirty, there is no dust in the tube, or top of carb. It's easily cleaned and re-oiled. Idea by Rusty Rocket.

More info here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=82

this looks like it could work out nicely with a little piece of oiled stocking tied around the inlet or even just stuffed into the housing as a rudimentary prefilter. easily replaceable and easier to wash than the pleated unifilter design.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #72050
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
K&N has these little guys:



Not counting the spout, they measure about 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1".

Regards,

Derek
and this is pretty much the answer to my prayers. ive had enough of spraying a small amount of lube into a bottle, wait for the foam to settle and gas to release and then spray again. takes ages to get a reasonable amount of oil from a pressurised can into a bottle and get the gas out. sitting the unpressurised bottle in boiling water accelerated the process though.

i dont suppose you Derek or Jeff at procycle sell these little beauties?
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:27 AM   #72051
DockingPilot
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
this looks like it could work out nicely with a little piece of oiled stocking tied around the inlet or even just stuffed into the housing as a rudimentary prefilter. easily replaceable and easier to wash than the pleated unifilter design.
Cut the pool skimmer basket sock to fit this and rubber band it on. I did that with the K&N. I took this stock pod filter and fit it on the other unfiltered hose. Not sure if it accomplishes anything but what the hay.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:31 AM   #72052
dogjaw
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Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Some nice ebay pegs, $19 shipped

I have had these on my DR for over a year; 19.99 well spent
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:03 AM   #72053
kbuckey
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thanks for the First Person comments. WoW! By now I've read quite a few problem reports with these batteries. In some cases the batt was faulty and Shorai replaced it free. But if problems are common then might be best to hold off at least until next generation.

I think we will get there on this type of battery ... eventually!
I gave up on my Shorai, too.

I went to a deposition and 6 (incredibly booooooring) hours later went out to the bike. Temp about 30. Wouldn't start. Turned lights on. Waited. No Start. Waited. No Start. A total of 10 to 15 minutes passes and it finally starts! Only seemed like an hour. It never actually failed me but that just sucks!
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:43 AM   #72054
MikeyP
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Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
ive had enough of spraying a small amount of lube into a bottle, wait for the foam to settle and gas to release and then spray again. takes ages to get a reasonable amount of oil from a pressurised can into a bottle and get the gas out. sitting the unpressurised bottle in boiling water accelerated the process though.
You could buy a full size equivalent and pour some in a smaller bottle if you need a travel size. I recently purchased this one after reading some reviews that the squeeze bottle is easier to get the oil where you want it.

K&N 99-5050 Filter Care Service Kit - Squeeze
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:52 AM   #72055
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuckey View Post

I went to a deposition and 6 (incredibly booooooring) hours later!
I do expert work sometimes and would rather have my teeth pulled. Last one for me was 7 hours and video taped.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:04 AM   #72056
MikeyP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
I've tried two Shorai's and won't be using any new tech batteries anymore. I had a Shorai in my CBF1000 and like Rob it wouldn't start the bike on cold mornings and cold meaning 50F in the morning in AZ. The last thing I thought I had to worry about last winter in AZ was my frigging battery. Battery died in my wife's DR200 so I put a new Shorai in that. We were on a tough dual sport ride with lots of starts/stops and the battery died and the bike needed to be bump started for the final day and all the way home. A few times with the battery fully charged, after a brief stop the bike would be completely dead, necessitating a bump start and then behave normally for the rest of the ride. And no it wasn't just a loose connection. Bikes been running fine with a good old lead acid battery back in it. Good article on the new batteries here, very technical but sill a good read...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
Bottom line is I don't think these batteries are ready for dual sporting, at least for me.

I have a Shorai that the PO installed and at first I was having some issues with it running down pretty quick after not a lot of cranking if I was having a problem. I used my friend's charger to balance the cells and since then it's worked really well for me down to mornings in the low 50s but I haven't had an opportunity to try it near freezing. Here is the inexpensive charger he used, which is a general purpose hobby charger that has tons of modes to work on many battery types. The only trick is you need an adapter to work with the Shorai battery, but it's a cheap adapter.

Thunder ac680

Thanks for linking to the interesting battery thread. I'm only 5 pages in but enjoying it.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:15 AM   #72057
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
DisTech rocks!! And so do the tunes.
Glad to see that you're still checkin' in. Your earlier DR posts showed me how to contribute to the thread.
everybody here should have this bookmarked

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415263
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:07 AM   #72058
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,418
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuckey View Post
I gave up on my Shorai, too.

I went to a deposition and 6 (incredibly booooooring) hours later went out to the bike. Temp about 30. Wouldn't start. Turned lights on. Waited. No Start. Waited. No Start. A total of 10 to 15 minutes passes and it finally starts! Only seemed like an hour. It never actually failed me but that just sucks!

Give a little personal experience on Bikemaster Gel batteries: I had one in my TLR and it went bad after 1.5 years. The original battery lasted 6. Anyway, kind of pissed me off. When I called where I bought it they said don't worry they have a warranty (which I didn't know). They called me back the next day and Bikemaster was sending me a new battery..no charge. We will see if it last longer then the first one.

I got the new battery and decided to put it in my DR650 (same size) just to see how it did. Cranked it over better then the Yusa.

First one going bad might have been a fluke. who knows. But their customer service seemed pretty good.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:12 AM   #72059
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
i dont suppose you Derek or Jeff at procycle sell these little beauties?
I've got plenty in stock.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:29 AM   #72060
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
this looks like it could work out nicely with a little piece of oiled stocking tied around the inlet or even just stuffed into the housing as a rudimentary prefilter. easily replaceable and easier to wash than the pleated unifilter design.
Mine disintegrated, so I cut up part of a used synthetic car-wash sponge into a rod shape, stuffed it in there, and coated it with the same filter oil that Uni air filters use (which are synthetic foam / spongy stuff). All I can say is that no dirt is getting past it, so it works for me for now.
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