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Old 12-20-2012, 07:33 PM   #72076
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

Helps if you try to crack it loose when the motor is good and hot. Then a little anti seize on the threads makes it easier next time.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:49 PM   #72077
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TDC Compression

If you leave the plugs in the cover, all you need to do when doing the valves is remove the valve covers, get a plastic drinking straw and put it down a plug hole, after cleaning around and removing a plug. Then rotate the crank by turning the rear wheel with the bike in gear, say 4th and after the inlet valves close and the straw stops rising you have TDC on compression. Easy, and works on all motors, not just DRs. It does not have to be a perfect TDC, all you want is the follower on the base circle of the cam, and TDC compression will give you both, and avoid any issues with the decomp on the exhaust..
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:12 PM   #72078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
If you leave the plugs in the cover, all you need to do when doing the valves is remove the valve covers, get a plastic drinking straw and put it down a plug hole, after cleaning around and removing a plug. Then rotate the crank by turning the rear wheel with the bike in gear, say 4th and after the inlet valves close and the straw stops rising you have TDC on compression. Easy, and works on all motors, not just DRs. It does not have to be a perfect TDC, all you want is the follower on the base circle of the cam, and TDC compression will give you both, and avoid any issues with the decomp on the exhaust..
Exactly! That's what I had to resort to just a couple weeks ago. I just put my finger over the plug hole and waited for the piston to come up while watching all the valves were closed. Yes, as long as the followers on on the base circle of the cam, it doesn't have to be at exactly TDC.

When I put the new plug and O-ring back in, I used copper/anti-seize (even though same metal/alum) and just put it back in little more than finger tight. Now I can do the valve checks perfectly and I don't have a rounded out inspection plug.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:33 PM   #72079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
I got a pair of those cheap, chinese junk foot pegs, they looked like pot metal, I wouldn't even put them on my bike, I couldn't imagine how it would feel when I was standing on them and they failed. I mounted Fastway, a good American product.
Been running the cheap Chinese pegs on the TT350, DR650, XR250 and my bro runs them on his TT350.

3 years or so now with no problems.

Bro is local cross country champ and mx's the TT at VMX events...
He likes them and runs pivot pegs on his RM250.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:38 PM   #72080
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I've had them on and off a couple of bikes too and they are fine, if a bit heavy, but what's a few grams on a DR?
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:43 PM   #72081
JagLite
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Thumb Art pegs

Quote:
Originally Posted by bosley1980 View Post
HI I've seen this type that cracking...
Therefore, I introduced a slight improvement
MORE INFO HERE AT XT600E THREAD
Those pegs are a work of art Bosley!

Although anytime no price is given tells me:

"If you have to ask, you can't afford it."

Good thing I am happy with my ProCycle pegs...
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:27 PM   #72082
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guy in mexico is having issues with his dr. not sure if he posted for questions in this thread but here is the thread for all the experts to see. he's getting frustrated. 2x carb clean and he has spark but bike still has issues:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=849711
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:33 PM   #72083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Been running the cheap Chinese pegs on the TT350, DR650, XR250 and my bro runs them on his TT350.

3 years or so now with no problems.

Bro is local cross country champ and mx's the TT at VMX events...
He likes them and runs pivot pegs on his RM250.
i had those cheap ebay ones on my DR for years before I upgraded to the awesome Procycle dropped ones. worked great and beat the crap outta them.
same thing for my klr and xr400. those all provided years of solid service.
i don't remember anyone on here saying theirs broke.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:58 PM   #72084
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check out this tool for the next time you're in that jam (after your allen tool started to slip but way before you get to notch and punch)

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
this tool provides twisting motion plus straight inward impact and gets things turning fast. every home mechanic should have one.

the socket end on the tool is 1/2" so you put a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter (i use air tool safe ones as they are stronger) on it.

then you use a socket with the correct allen bit on it.
i have 3-10 https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CH8Q8wIwAQ plus i added a 12mm and have a multi-tool for 17/19/22/24.

i like the 1/2" socket end one as i've used it with big rusted car bolts and 1/2" sockets but you need an adapter to use 3/8". no big deal but you can get a 3/8" one if you only use it on smaller bolts.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CIwBEPMCMAA

other tips to get things to get things loose is to tap what needs to come loose a few time with a hammer. not hard just a good solid blow.
use a brass drift or put several layers of masking tape on it if your going to mar it. like others have said heat the engine 1st or apply heat with a heat gun/torch.


Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

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eakins screwed with this post 12-20-2012 at 11:08 PM
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:34 AM   #72085
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Craftsman electric impact wrench, FTW. 1/2" drive, 250 lbft of torque; hammers the fasteners only, NOT the underlying bearings/seals or expensive/thin motor structural pieces. In fact, I used this monster on the carb cap screws after I had rounded out two of the Japanese Philips screws: used my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head, couldn't get my finger off the trigger fast enough before the screw had spun out.

Hammer type impact drivers are good on heavy equipment that can take a pounding; not so on lots of areas on more fragile motorcycles. Keep in mind, most of the force of that hammer hit is being transmitted into whatever the fastener is stuck on - so what's on the other end of that screw shaft?

Lex

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
check out this tool for the next time you're in that jam (after your allen tool started to slip but way before you get to notch and punch)

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
this tool provides twisting motion plus straight inward impact and gets things turning fast. every home mechanic should have one.

the socket end on the tool is 1/2" so you put a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter (i use air tool safe ones as they are stronger) on it.

then you use a socket with the correct allen bit on it.
i have 3-10 https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CH8Q8wIwAQ plus i added a 12mm and have a multi-tool for 17/19/22/24.

i like the 1/2" socket end one as i've used it with big rusted car bolts and 1/2" sockets but you need an adapter to use 3/8". no big deal but you can get a 3/8" one if you only use it on smaller bolts.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CIwBEPMCMAA

other tips to get things to get things loose is to tap what needs to come loose a few time with a hammer. not hard just a good solid blow.
use a brass drift or put several layers of masking tape on it if your going to mar it. like others have said heat the engine 1st or apply heat with a heat gun/torch.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:18 AM   #72086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
On second thought, K&N filter oil is meant for gauze, and may not be the best for use on foam. I can tell you that it's nowhere near as tacky as the foam filter oils I'm familiar with.

Regards,

Derek
thats ok, ill stick with the small listerine bottle that is now full of filter oil and cable tied to the fork brace. that way when it spills i wont have to wash all my gear. again.

anyone got their original carb vent breather laying around that they would like to exchange for some dollars?
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:22 AM   #72087
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Craftsman electric impact wrench, FTW. 1/2" drive, 250 lbft of torque; hammers the fasteners only, NOT the underlying bearings/seals or expensive/thin motor structural pieces. In fact, I used this monster on the carb cap screws after I had rounded out two of the Japanese Philips screws: used my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head, couldn't get my finger off the trigger fast enough before the screw had spun out.

Hammer type impact drivers are good on heavy equipment that can take a pounding; not so on lots of areas on more fragile motorcycles. Keep in mind, most of the force of that hammer hit is being transmitted into whatever the fastener is stuck on - so what's on the other end of that screw shaft?

Lex
good to know. i actually used my hand hammer to to get those carb cap screws and replaced them with allen bolts.

is this what you have?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=31-63256341-2
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:17 AM   #72088
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
good to know. i actually used my hand hammer to to get those carb cap screws and replaced them with allen bolts.

is this what you have?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=31-63256341-2
Very close, the model I have is some 25 years old, no longer offered for sale. Adapters that allow you to use regular screwdriver bits on that 1/2" drive are available from the larger tool retailers.

Lex
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:51 AM   #72089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Craftsman electric impact wrench, FTW. 1/2" drive, 250 lbft of torque; hammers the fasteners only, NOT the underlying bearings/seals or expensive/thin motor structural pieces. In fact, I used this monster on the carb cap screws after I had rounded out two of the Japanese Philips screws: used my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head, couldn't get my finger off the trigger fast enough before the screw had spun out.

Hammer type impact drivers are good on heavy equipment that can take a pounding; not so on lots of areas on more fragile motorcycles. Keep in mind, most of the force of that hammer hit is being transmitted into whatever the fastener is stuck on - so what's on the other end of that screw shaft?

Lex
I think you are about 90% correct, for regular hex head bolts and nuts there is no useful advantage to the linear component of the hammer impact driver and there is the possibility of doing damage. For those soft headed JIS screws, and to some extent socket head screws and bolts, the 45 degree inward and rotational motion assures the best possible resistance to stripping out the head. I have both tools and for some jobs the simple and cheap hammer driver is the tool of choice.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:53 AM   #72090
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

Try throwing it in that "Metal Rescue" stuff.

I think all of the covers are that tight. The prev owner of my DR was a Suzuki mechanic, and mine is so tight, I will have to do the same.
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