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Old 12-21-2012, 12:34 AM   #72076
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Craftsman electric impact wrench, FTW. 1/2" drive, 250 lbft of torque; hammers the fasteners only, NOT the underlying bearings/seals or expensive/thin motor structural pieces. In fact, I used this monster on the carb cap screws after I had rounded out two of the Japanese Philips screws: used my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head, couldn't get my finger off the trigger fast enough before the screw had spun out.

Hammer type impact drivers are good on heavy equipment that can take a pounding; not so on lots of areas on more fragile motorcycles. Keep in mind, most of the force of that hammer hit is being transmitted into whatever the fastener is stuck on - so what's on the other end of that screw shaft?

Lex

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
check out this tool for the next time you're in that jam (after your allen tool started to slip but way before you get to notch and punch)

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
this tool provides twisting motion plus straight inward impact and gets things turning fast. every home mechanic should have one.

the socket end on the tool is 1/2" so you put a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter (i use air tool safe ones as they are stronger) on it.

then you use a socket with the correct allen bit on it.
i have 3-10 https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CH8Q8wIwAQ plus i added a 12mm and have a multi-tool for 17/19/22/24.

i like the 1/2" socket end one as i've used it with big rusted car bolts and 1/2" sockets but you need an adapter to use 3/8". no big deal but you can get a 3/8" one if you only use it on smaller bolts.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CIwBEPMCMAA

other tips to get things to get things loose is to tap what needs to come loose a few time with a hammer. not hard just a good solid blow.
use a brass drift or put several layers of masking tape on it if your going to mar it. like others have said heat the engine 1st or apply heat with a heat gun/torch.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:18 AM   #72077
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
On second thought, K&N filter oil is meant for gauze, and may not be the best for use on foam. I can tell you that it's nowhere near as tacky as the foam filter oils I'm familiar with.

Regards,

Derek
thats ok, ill stick with the small listerine bottle that is now full of filter oil and cable tied to the fork brace. that way when it spills i wont have to wash all my gear. again.

anyone got their original carb vent breather laying around that they would like to exchange for some dollars?
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:22 AM   #72078
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Craftsman electric impact wrench, FTW. 1/2" drive, 250 lbft of torque; hammers the fasteners only, NOT the underlying bearings/seals or expensive/thin motor structural pieces. In fact, I used this monster on the carb cap screws after I had rounded out two of the Japanese Philips screws: used my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head, couldn't get my finger off the trigger fast enough before the screw had spun out.

Hammer type impact drivers are good on heavy equipment that can take a pounding; not so on lots of areas on more fragile motorcycles. Keep in mind, most of the force of that hammer hit is being transmitted into whatever the fastener is stuck on - so what's on the other end of that screw shaft?

Lex
good to know. i actually used my hand hammer to to get those carb cap screws and replaced them with allen bolts.

is this what you have?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=31-63256341-2
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:17 AM   #72079
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
good to know. i actually used my hand hammer to to get those carb cap screws and replaced them with allen bolts.

is this what you have?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=31-63256341-2
Very close, the model I have is some 25 years old, no longer offered for sale. Adapters that allow you to use regular screwdriver bits on that 1/2" drive are available from the larger tool retailers.

Lex
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:51 AM   #72080
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Craftsman electric impact wrench, FTW. 1/2" drive, 250 lbft of torque; hammers the fasteners only, NOT the underlying bearings/seals or expensive/thin motor structural pieces. In fact, I used this monster on the carb cap screws after I had rounded out two of the Japanese Philips screws: used my Dremel to cut a slot in the screw head, couldn't get my finger off the trigger fast enough before the screw had spun out.

Hammer type impact drivers are good on heavy equipment that can take a pounding; not so on lots of areas on more fragile motorcycles. Keep in mind, most of the force of that hammer hit is being transmitted into whatever the fastener is stuck on - so what's on the other end of that screw shaft?

Lex
I think you are about 90% correct, for regular hex head bolts and nuts there is no useful advantage to the linear component of the hammer impact driver and there is the possibility of doing damage. For those soft headed JIS screws, and to some extent socket head screws and bolts, the 45 degree inward and rotational motion assures the best possible resistance to stripping out the head. I have both tools and for some jobs the simple and cheap hammer driver is the tool of choice.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:53 AM   #72081
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

Try throwing it in that "Metal Rescue" stuff.

I think all of the covers are that tight. The prev owner of my DR was a Suzuki mechanic, and mine is so tight, I will have to do the same.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:27 PM   #72082
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by bosley1980 View Post
HI I've seen this type that cracking...
Therefore, I introduced a slight improvement
MORE INFO HERE AT XT600E THREAD

If you want more info - look the forum vendor section
YES! Very Nice!
Those are some super fine foot pegs! I wonder if they can fit the DR650?
Price?

Also good to hear from Mezo ... and on his own Forum. Mezo was banned here,
no idea why. One the best contributors to ADV and other forums. A tech wizard.

Here is his UK Tenere' forum:
http://www.tenere.co.uk/forum/index.php
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:36 PM   #72083
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Does anyone know where I can buy a starter for a 2000 model for a good price? Aftermarket or rebuilt is preferred given the price of a new one. The dealer tried to get me one, but it's totally the wrong part. And don't even suggest eBay unless you've personally had a good experience. Their feedback is atrocious.
Ebay is like running the gauntlet for sure ... you must be very careful you're getting the right part for your bike. But giving the Seller negative feedback can often get a good result ... like getting things made right.
Beyond Ebay choices are limited.

Of course you could have bought the WHOLE DR650 bike I posted here a while back from a San Francisco Craig's list add; $300, (IIRC) for the WHOLE BIKE. No one even so much as made a peep or thanked me for the tip. Guess I'll keep these finds to myself from now on. Believe me, they pop up more frequently than you would imagine. Early bird and all that ....

Keep scouring Flea Market here and Craig's List adds, doing nationwide searches. I sold a starter a couple years ago ... $100. It was perfect.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #72084
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
No. I don't know what it is, but its completely safe on the hands, rags; you name it. I had my bare hands covered in the stuff. Almost no smell, no fumes, completely harmless to everything except rust!
Have you tried it on oxidized Aluminum ... like engine side cases?

HEY! Good find!
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:23 PM   #72085
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
Anyone got their original carb vent breather laying around that they would like to exchange for some dollars?
I don't have a spare but for the visually stimulated, do you need part 20?

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Old 12-21-2012, 01:30 PM   #72086
UberKul
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Location: Wilseyville, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
And here's what I had to resort to after the PO must have used an impact gun to tighten the inspection/crank cover:

This crank access cover has some kind of physics defying adhesive qualities built into it!
Destroyed a second one even after using anti-seize and a low torque install. Problem is if you use a hammer-driver you punch through the cover before the thing comes loose. Finally bought the Yosh plug with the male hex but they do not seem to be available through their site any longer.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:21 PM   #72087
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post

anyone got their original carb vent breather laying around that they would like to exchange for some dollars?
you mean like one of these?




http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:49 PM   #72088
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question Lost messages?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post

Of course you could have bought the WHOLE DR650 bike I posted here a while back from a San Francisco Craig's list add; $300, (IIRC) for the WHOLE BIKE. No one even so much as made a peep or thanked me for the tip. Guess I'll keep these finds to myself from now on. Believe me, they pop up more frequently than you would imagine. Early bird and all that .... .
What?

What??

How'd we miss your post?
I check the site several times each day and read all the new posts but I sure missed the $300 DR650!
How many others missed seeing that post?

I know I post things in answer to questions and sometimes it seems nobody saw it.
I wonder if when I hit "unread posts" it jumps past some?
Anyone else notice that?

A $300 DR650. Wow.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:18 PM   #72089
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
What??

How'd we miss your post?
I check the site several times each day and read all the new posts but I sure missed the $300 DR650!
How many others missed seeing that post?
You didn't miss anything. That "whole bike" did not have a motor in it. As I recall it was just a frame, suspension and wheels. Kinda rusty and ugly. I checked it out closely, If there was $300 worth of value there I would have picked it up for spares.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:26 PM   #72090
VooDooDaddy
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Location: SW Iowa
Oddometer: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Have you tried it on oxidized Aluminum ...
Yes, I completely stripped the front and rear brake calipers and brackets, washed them in hot soapy water, then let them sit in a bowl of Metal Rescue for a couple of days. They were covered in furry, grey oxidation. I imagine the PO often rode the bike in wet conditions, then just let is sit. Anyway, the MR does a good job of removing oxidation from alumium as well, but not nearly as quickly as from ferrous metals. I did find that also using a small, brass bristled brush, scrubbing on the parts immediately after removing them from the MR also helps bring back the original finish/look.

Good stuff. The jug cost me $25, but I have used less than 1/4 of it with excellent results. Some of the parts were so heavily oxidized, I was considering trying to find replacement parts before I discovered the MR. Check out their website.
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