ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-21-2012, 02:18 PM   #72106
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,137
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
What??

How'd we miss your post?
I check the site several times each day and read all the new posts but I sure missed the $300 DR650!
How many others missed seeing that post?
You didn't miss anything. That "whole bike" did not have a motor in it. As I recall it was just a frame, suspension and wheels. Kinda rusty and ugly. I checked it out closely, If there was $300 worth of value there I would have picked it up for spares.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 02:26 PM   #72107
VooDooDaddy
Gnarly Adventurer
 
VooDooDaddy's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: SW Iowa
Oddometer: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Have you tried it on oxidized Aluminum ...
Yes, I completely stripped the front and rear brake calipers and brackets, washed them in hot soapy water, then let them sit in a bowl of Metal Rescue for a couple of days. They were covered in furry, grey oxidation. I imagine the PO often rode the bike in wet conditions, then just let is sit. Anyway, the MR does a good job of removing oxidation from alumium as well, but not nearly as quickly as from ferrous metals. I did find that also using a small, brass bristled brush, scrubbing on the parts immediately after removing them from the MR also helps bring back the original finish/look.

Good stuff. The jug cost me $25, but I have used less than 1/4 of it with excellent results. Some of the parts were so heavily oxidized, I was considering trying to find replacement parts before I discovered the MR. Check out their website.
VooDooDaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 03:01 PM   #72108
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You didn't miss anything. That "whole bike" did not have a motor in it. As I recall it was just a frame, suspension and wheels. Kinda rusty and ugly. I checked it out closely, If there was $300 worth of value there I would have picked it up for spares.
I think you're right, sorry, I should have mentioned lack of motor. There were two DR's for sale around the same time, both cheap, I mixed them up.

The San Fran one did not look all that bad to my dim memory however ... had both wheels, frame, bars, controls, electronics (CDI), Reg. Rectifier, swing arm, shock, forks. I think the wiring harness may have been there, but not sure.

Light rust, yes, but I've seen worse.

I believe it was an early DR as it had the purple frame.
IMO, lots of usable parts ... not pristine, but usable and rebuildable IMO. The forks, wheels, frame and swing arm alone easily surpass $300.

The other DR I saw for sale (cheap) I did not post here. It had a motor, was going for more money ... and it ran. (supposedly) (around $600 IIRC) But actually looked worse. I believe it was down in SoCal ?
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 03:14 PM   #72109
DockingPilot
Hooked Up and Hard Over
 
DockingPilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
Oddometer: 9,049
Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
This crank access cover has some kind of physics defying adhesive qualities built into it!
Destroyed a second one even after using anti-seize and a low torque install. Problem is if you use a hammer-driver you punch through the cover before the thing comes loose. Finally bought the Yosh plug with the male hex but they do not seem to be available through their site any longer.
I smother mine (2012) in Loktite copper based anti seize and also give it a crack open and closed every other oil change (every 2k). So far at 7k miles, it still opens as it should. It is strange why they weld themselves to the cover though.
__________________
Frank Reinbold

"Every bike I ever had, was the best bike I ever had, when I had it"
DockingPilot is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 03:18 PM   #72110
dman
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 565
Quote:
anyone got their original carb vent breather laying around that they would like to exchange for some dollars?
I have the black plastic part (#20 in ER70S-2's subsequent post) but why would you want it? Not sure shipping from the US is worth it either, but otherwise you can have it.

-dman
dman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 03:25 PM   #72111
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,286
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Seems to work on other non-ferrous metals as well.

Where did you get this stuff?

What were you stripping off the non ferrous metals? Oxidation?

Do you have to dip the stuff or can you coat it on the part?

I'm always looking for something to strip rust from engine blocks...I hate soda blasting!
Mongle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 03:30 PM   #72112
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,286
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Helps if you try to crack it loose when the motor is good and hot. Then a little anti seize on the threads makes it easier next time.
I 2nd this.

First time I checked the valves I tried that stupid plug with the engine cold I thought I was going to tear the whole side cover off. Never did get it- used the rear wheel.

2nd time and there after- loosened it while the engine was hot (as soon as I pulled into the garage) and it came free with a 3 inch allen. So easy I couldn't believe it!
Mongle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 04:45 PM   #72113
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I smother mine (2012) in Loktite copper based anti seize and also give it a crack open and closed every other oil change (every 2k). So far at 7k miles, it still opens as it should. It is strange why they weld themselves to the cover though.
I believe some form of electrolysis may be taking place. Anyone old enough to remember Honda's from the early to mid 60's. I was there and owned several. Honda used those HORRIBLE JIS head (phillips) bolts for the side cased back then ... and for lots of other critical areas. Those bloody bolts would weld themselves to the case ... just about a guarantee the mechanic would strip the soft JIS bolt head.

It was electrolysis at work. Steel bolt, Alu case. All Japanese OEM's moved away from this type of fastener by the 70's but my Honda 305 Superhawk,
Honda 160 and a few smaller bikes all had them. PITA.

Back then we used Impact Drivers to remove ... and greased them up with
copper grease going back in.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 04:53 PM   #72114
bross
Where we riding to?
 
bross's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,366
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Where did you get this stuff?

What were you stripping off the non ferrous metals? Oxidation?

Do you have to dip the stuff or can you coat it on the part?

I'm always looking for something to strip rust from engine blocks...I hate soda blasting!
Their website says available at some Home Depot stores.
bross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 04:56 PM   #72115
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,002
320 mm Rotor

Just wondering if anyone is aware of an alternate to the EBC floating one. Arguably, its not really suited to ADV type riding. I just want a floating disc and not the calliper adaptor. I've seen references to a Titax one, but can't find a listing.
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 04:59 PM   #72116
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,137
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Just wondering if anyone is aware of an alternate to the EBC floating one. Arguably, its not really suited to ADV type riding. I just want a floating disc and not the calliper adaptor. I've seen references to a Titax one, but can't find a listing.
We'll have 320mm rotor kits from Galfer soon (couple weeks). Should be a high quality alternative to the EBC brake.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 05:11 PM   #72117
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
We'll have 320mm rotor kits from Galfer soon (couple weeks). Should be a high quality alternative to the EBC brake.
Sounds promising, I'll kep and eye out, ta.

And Merry Christmas to all
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 05:25 PM   #72118
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,137
Titax lists standard size rotors but nothing oversize.
--> http://www.titax.com/off-road/data/T...10.2.pdf_5.pdf
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 05:54 PM   #72119
dman
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 565
Quote:
Honda used those HORRIBLE JIS head (phillips) bolts for the side cased back then ... and for lots of other critical areas. Those bloody bolts would weld themselves to the case ... just about a guarantee the mechanic would strip the soft JIS bolt head.

Back then we used Impact Drivers to remove ... and greased them up with
copper grease going back in.
I had wiped those memories clear until I read this. I still remember buying a cheap (Japanese? Taiwanese? Definitely not Made in China in those days) impact driver at Post Tool (the Harbor Freight of the day in the Bay Area) just for those screws. I still have a few of those old screws, usable, but never re-used, in my old fastener bin ... probably time to throw them out. I don't think I've used my impact driver for 20 years or so either. BTW, I just disassembled and lubed my noisy DR650 starter a few weeks ago, and needed to turn the crank to TDC to do that (cam chain tensioner removal to access starter) and my plug came out of a cold engine no problemo.

-dman
dman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 06:14 PM   #72120
dman
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 565
Tire changing and temperature

I really wanted to ride today but it was cold rainy and windy. So I did pretty much the last pending maintenance item on my DR, replaced my worn Kenda 761 rear with a new Dunlop 606 that's been sitting in the garage way too long. I had put a D606 on the front about 4 months ago but figured I'd wait until the wet season for the rear, since the Kenda was OK on pavement and hard pack.

The 761 was surprisingly hard to break the bead on, but the 606 went on quite easily. It was no more than 45 or 50 degrees (F) today, and no sun to put the tire out in to warm up. Does the difference between 50 and say 70 degrees make a tire much more flexible and easier to remove or mount? My VStrom is going to need a rear change in the next month or two and I'm wondering if I should plan it around the weather better, not that it will be any warmer in February I didn't really want to bring a dirty stinky tire in the house to warm up.

-dman
dman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014