the DR650 thread

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by blk-betty

Thanks..that's what I assumed.

Weld was not ground, this it what it looked like once removed and "pieced together"

I think I aked this before, but was there any 'force' required when you assembled this all originally? If so, that's likely the cause. It should all fit together without having to use any significant force on any bits one way or the other to get it to line up.

[Phreaky Phil]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Just wondering if anyone is aware of an alternate to the EBC floating one. Arguably, its not really suited to ADV type riding. I just want a floating disc and not the calliper adaptor. I've seen references to a Titax one, but can't find a listing.

I have been thinking of using one of Galfers 270mm kits for mine (DRZ front end ) I thought the original DRZ one would be to weak for the DR but its surprisingly ok. Not great though and is showing signs of overheating. Not sure if the 320 would be to much ?

[blk-betty]

Originally Posted by procycle

No jetting change will be necessary.

From the source...thanks!

[blk-betty]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

I think I aked this before, but was there any 'force' required when you assembled this all originally? If so, that's likely the cause. It should all fit together without having to use any significant force on any bits one way or the other to get it to line up.

No force applied, simply removed the muffler, added the midpipe and mounted the X40F0X with the hardware supplided by Kientech.

I am a little ham fisted and really tightened up the muffler and "squished" the rubber spacer supplied in the mount kit.

I'll loosen everything up and retighten on the install making sure nothing has any undo force.......waiting on the gaskets on order from the dealer.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

Not sure if the 320 would be too much ?

I wondered that myself. I have a 20 mile twisty dirt section that I ride quickly with lots of flat, slippery turns. Accelerate, brake hard, turn, accelerate, brake hard, turn, over and over....... But by the end of the 20 miles I started riding slower (coasting into the turns) because my right forearm was starting to pump up.

With the 320 that is no longer an issue, not even a little bit.

The other question I had, am I going to grab too much front brake and drop myself? I wondered if I'd use the same lever pull that I've used forever, which would be too much now. Happily that wasn't a problem either. My muscle memory learned the new, lower pull and adjusted to the traction available, not overbraking. I don't trail brake with the front any more though.

I imagine with your two up riding, the 320 would be sweet. Look into the new Galfer that Procycle is expecting shortly.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I wondered that myself. I have a 20 mile twisty dirt section that I ride quickly with lots of flat, slippery turns. Accelerate, brake hard, turn, accelerate, brake hard, turn, over and over....... But by the end of the 20 miles I started riding slower (coasting into the turns) because my right forearm was starting to pump up.

With the 320 that is no longer an issue, not even a little bit.

The other question I had, am I going to grab too much front brake and drop myself? I wondered if I'd use the same lever pull that I've used forever, which would be too much now. Happily that wasn't a problem either. My muscle memory learned the new, lower pull and adjusted to the traction available, not overbraking. I don't trail brake with the front any more though.

I imagine with your two up riding, the 320 would be sweet. Look into the new Galfer that Procycle is expecting shortly.

Everything else in my fleet has much more sensitive brakes than my DR, even with the 11 mm Brembo MC. I am always recalibrating my right arm. It was interesting when I first got my FE650, and those who rode it considered the brakes more savage than the throttle

[smilin jack]

Installed the new PC .55 fork springs a few weeks ago and that didn't fix the loose forks so ordered the rebuilt kit (seals and bushings). Also installed the 8.3 shock spring at that time.

Got the fork bushings etc installed today. The forks are much better with no wiggle now. With the heavier springs front and rear the bike felt in complete control doing 40 mph down a gravel street. Dark and rainy now, so will do a longer test ride tomorrow.

edit: photos posted


Left fork done and back on the bike. Right fork is next. 50K on the bike and OEM seals not leaking!



The zip tie shaped like a T is my measuring device (6.5" from top of fork to oil level). The old fork seals and scrap of PVC pipe were the installation tools for the new fork seals. Worked OK.

Dave

[Hesaid]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I like adjustability in a situation like this, you don't know what you need or where you'll end up. Don't forget you'll need to do something with the kickstand.

Yeah, we've got the shorter factory short kickstand on there now, but that means that we also have a brand new stock factory kickstand sitting on a shelf in the garage. So we can play with that. Maybe we can make it adjustable also. If we can get some adjustable levers as well, she might never need to ride, she can just sit and drink coffee and perform motorcycle maintenance. I hear it's a zen-like experience.

MV

[Ren20]

tried to push start my bike with weak battery. Fail big time.
with a friend's help too.

we gave up and jump from a car battery. (car was off)

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by Ren20

tried to push start my bike with weak battery. Fail big time.
with a friend's help too.

we gave up and jump from a car battery. (car was off)

Generally a lot of bikes push-start easier in 2nd (maybe some even 3rd?) gear because first gear asks the engine RPM's to be too high - often the rear wheel will just skid if the rear is light.

I was able to push start the new owner of my previous bike, a Vulcan 800, about two weeks ago since he had no idea what to do after leaving it sit for so long, and refusing to buy a battery charger (but, instead, insisting I ride over to help him figure that out, why the carb is getting gunked up, and to show him - after 6 months of having it and I think refusing to even try - how to slide the seat backward to take it off).

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Hesaid

If we can get some adjustable levers as well, she might never need to ride, she can just sit and drink coffee and perform motorcycle maintenance. I hear it's a zen-like experience.

MV

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I found this much more interesting than the original. Never got past chapter 5 though I owned the book for decades...

Zen and Now: On the Trail of Robert Pirsig and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

I have been thinking of using one of Galfers 270mm kits for mine (DRZ front end ) I thought the original DRZ one would be to weak for the DR but its surprisingly ok. Not great though and is showing signs of overheating. Not sure if the 320 would be to much ?

I have a Moto-Master 320 on mine (RM hub). It's never been too much brake even in slippery stuff or gravel. It takes a lighter pull but I find it easier to modulate a light pull. I wouldn't want to go back the the stock rotor and certainly not a stock DRZ or RM rotor.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Generally a lot of bikes push-start easier in 2nd (maybe some even 3rd?) gear because first gear asks the engine RPM's to be too high - often the rear wheel will just skid if the rear is light.

Deficiently 3rd or 4th with the DR.

Will start on the gravel in the right gear.

[JagLite]

Read this on the TW200 forum and it is very interesting:

Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid