the DR650 thread

[Phreaky Phil]

Originally Posted by procycle

I have a Moto-Master 320 on mine (RM hub). It's never been too much brake even in slippery stuff or gravel. It takes a lighter pull but I find it easier to modulate a light pull. I wouldn't want to go back the the stock rotor and certainly not a stock DRZ or RM rotor.

Hi Jeff, Will you be doing a Galfer 320 one to suit the DRZ front end.
Cheers Phil

[rpet]

dang but PB Blaster has possibly the best graphic design / typography known to man!

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

Hi Jeff, Will you be doing a Galfer 320 one to suit the DRZ front end.
Cheers Phil

They should already be available. I'll look into it.

[bradrh]

Originally Posted by JagLite

Read this on the TW200 forum and it is very interesting:

Thats good. I've always been amazed at how well liquid wrench works. I wonder if they would have tried some light oil if that would have been almost as good as wd-40. I think the Acetone would evaporate quickly unless you kept it really tightly sealed.

[DockingPilot]

I do have other ignorances too but ............

In an effort to quickly and easily reduce wattage demand I'm going to install a LED 1157 tail light bulb.
What about the headlight ? Can a LED bulb, if there is in fact one, be simply plugged in and thats that ?

Thanks,
Frank

[Ackme]

Originally Posted by DockingPilot

In an effort to quickly and easily reduce wattage demand I'm going to install a LED 1157 tail light bulb.
What about the headlight ? Can a LED bulb, if there is in fact one, be simply plugged in and thats that ?

electrically speaking, the answer is yes. The issue is the headlight is trying to do more than the brake light. Every light is a unit made up of source, reflector and lens. Unlike the glowing filament of an incandescent lamp the LED only emits light in a limited direction. So you need a unit that collects and focus' that output in a useful way. Just dropping an LED source, if one is even manufactured to the stock socket, is unlikely to be very successful.

The brake light just needs to be bright and visible off axis. So you see a lot of these funky arrays on a 1157 compatible base. You may have already looked into how these work. http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/l...r-motorcycles/

Bottom line: not as bright as incandescent but OK and saves the watts.

The headlight needs to put a great deal more intensity out in a specific pattern where it is usable to you. The likelier solution is to put a LED unit designed to throw enough light to use as a headlight in place of the stock housing.
http://www.aimhi-enduro.com/LED-High...-Lighting.html

[DockingPilot]

ok, that makes sense Ack, thanks!

[chethro]

Be carefull with acetone. It is nasty stuff and you don't want it absorbed into your skin. I rarely
wear gloves with handling most fluids, but I do with acetone. Good to know though, I might have to
try it sometime.

Originally Posted by JagLite

Read this on the TW200 forum and it is very interesting:

[FlowBee]

Originally Posted by chethro

Be carefull with acetone. It is nasty stuff and you don't want it absorbed into your skin....

+1. The problem with acetone and some of the other solvents isn't that it is absorbed through the skin and into your bloodstream, but that it carries other stuff into your bloodstream with it. ATF has some chemicals in it that do not do your body good. I don't know the specific toxicity, but acetone is a great solvent.

I used to work at an R&D center for a transmission manufacturer. One day over lunch I was looking the chemical structures of various nerve agents used in weapons. I happened to have VX's structure on my computer screen and of our senior chemists walked by my cubicle. He looked at my screen and asked, "Are you looking up friction modifiers?" I said, "No, that's VX." He replied, "Interesting. That organophosphate has a similar structure to some of the friction modifiers used in ATF."



We always wore gloves when working with ATF or ATF-soaked plates until they were de-oiled.

[dljocky]

I'm looking to change my fork oil in the next week or so. I see in the manual, 563ml oil capacity in each leg. A couple of questions, do I just pour that amount in and I'm done? I remember reading somewhere that after the spring is out, fork compressed, measure from the top and it should be 6.5'' to the oil, but I'm not sure I actually read that or not. I also see that in the manual, it says Oil level: 150ml (5.9'') I'm not sure what this is referring to.

I have after market heavier springs in my forks, and I weigh about 240lbs without gear, should I stick to the 10wt oil or go to the heavier 15wt?

Thank in advance for any input. I'm new to this mechanic stuff, but with the forums help, it's not so hard.

[smilin jack]

Originally Posted by dljocky

I'm looking to change my fork oil in the next week or so. I see in the manual, 563ml oil capacity in each leg. A couple of questions, do I just pour that amount in and I'm done? I remember reading somewhere that after the spring is out, fork compressed, measure from the top and it should be 6.5'' to the oil, but I'm not sure I actually read that or not. I also see that in the manual, it says Oil level: 150ml (5.9'') I'm not sure what this is referring to.

I have after market heavier springs in my forks, and I weigh about 240lbs without gear, should I stick to the 10wt oil or go to the heavier 15wt?

Thank in advance for any input. I'm new to this mechanic stuff, but with the forums help, it's not so hard.

Yes, I just did my forks yesterday with heavy springs. The service manual says 6.5" from the top of the fork to the oil with no spring and the fork fully compressed. Works fine for me, but some people raise the oil level to 5.5" from the top when they are running stock springs and 10 w fork oil.

Some use ATF in the interest of saving $$$, as it's reported to also be 10w. Don't know about the actual viscosity of ATF. Check it out on the web.

Dave

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by DockingPilot

I do have other ignorances too but ............

In an effort to quickly and easily reduce wattage demand I'm going to install a LED 1157 tail light bulb.
What about the headlight ? Can a LED bulb, if there is in fact one, be simply plugged in and thats that ?

Thanks,
Frank

Hi Frank,
I would go with an HID kit. I use the 35 Watt kit ... single bulb. You lose your "high beam" but the HID is about 3 times brighter than stock bulb and uses 20 watts less power. It's about $22. Reality is ... with this HID you only need the ONE light. Plenty bright and I never get flashed. Great on dark roads at night. Deer tested and passed.

This install is dead simple, you simply plug into stock headlight plug and hook up components in kit. (they only go together ONE WAY ... so hard to mess up)

I did an HID install write up over on Thumper Talk.
Starts at post 29 on page 2. The TT site is a bit Fubar ... pardon all the scummy ads. If you have any questions on install, fire away:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/817...20dr%20%20prep

Here is where I bought my HID kit. I love the HID light. 2 years, all good.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Cat...-Kits-Lighting

[BergDonk]

+ 1 for the HID. I used a H4 dipping type and it gives you both high and low. Saves 20w and gives much better light too. I also fitted a on/off switch so its only on when I want it on. This may be standard in some markets, but not in Oz.

The only issue I had was when fitting an LED tail light bulb, every time I got on the brakes, my headlight came on too. The LED bulbs I got have some sort of regulator in them and the brightness varies on all LEDs in the array, it doesn't kick more in a like a normal dual filament. This meant I was getting some feedback from the taillight circuit into the HID relay causing to to fire when the brakes came on. I went back to conventional tail light bulb and still saved 20w up front with the HID.

[dljocky]

Thanks Smiln Jack.

[DockingPilot]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Hi Frank,
I would go with an HID kit. I use the 35 Watt kit ... single bulb. You lose your "high beam" but the HID is about 3 times brighter than stock bulb and uses 20 watts less power. It's about $22. Reality is ... with this HID you only need the ONE light. Plenty bright and I never get flashed. Great on dark roads at night. Deer tested and passed.

This install is dead simple, you simply plug into stock headlight plug and hook up components in kit. (they only go together ONE WAY ... so hard to mess up)

I did an HID install write up over on Thumper Talk.
Starts at post 29 on page 2. The TT site is a bit Fubar ... pardon all the scummy ads. If you have any questions on install, fire away:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/817...20dr%20%20prep

Here is where I bought my HID kit. I love the HID light. 2 years, all good.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Cat...-Kits-Lighting

Thanks! Sounds like the ticket

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