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Old 12-31-2012, 12:31 PM   #72361
PHILinFRANCE
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
Oddometer: 1,116
Heavy, BUT well balanced , lighter than i thought, the cans that are on are after market, Arrow and sound the bollox, i have tought about dropping a disc , we'll see !!! I am going to try a 14 tooth for off road as the 15 standard is to high for me.
Maybe Yam will change their mind and let you guys over the pond have a go

ps ...................there's still no beating the DR what a bike

Cheers Phil
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:52 PM   #72362
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
you probably wouldn't want to do on any $5000 GayTeeEmm? See below:

]
Is that what a Murcan rides?
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:30 PM   #72363
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Question Couple of fork Questions

I tore down my forks today in anticipation of my new parts showing up soon and a couple of questions came to mind. First on a progressively wound spring do the tight coils go up or down or isn't there much difference? A MC shop had the forks apart before I owned the bike so I can't be sure the way they came out would have been the way the factory put them in.

Secondly what are you guys using for seal drivers on these forks? Is there a size PVC pipe that works?
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:41 PM   #72364
Lil' Steve
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Location: NYC, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I tore down my forks today in anticipation of my new parts showing up soon and a couple of questions came to mind. First on a progressively wound spring do the tight coils go up or down or isn't there much difference? A MC shop had the forks apart before I owned the bike so I can't be sure the way they came out would have been the way the factory put them in.

Secondly what are you guys using for seal drivers on these forks? Is there a size PVC pipe that works?

Tight coils up is the way they come from the factory.

2" PVC pipe works, you can use the old seals to drive the new ones in, they fit nicely on top of each other.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:57 PM   #72365
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
2" PVC pipe works, you can use the old seals to drive the new ones in, they fit nicely on top of each other.
I used the wire brush on my bench grinder around the outside of the old seal to take the rubber coating off; so it wouldn't stick in the fork tube on top of the new seal (someone else's idea, werked fer me).
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:10 PM   #72366
JagLite
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Thumb Loc Tite or anti=sieze that is the question

Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.

I tend to use blue loctite regularly but never used it on exhaust header bolts. I did use a new gasket so I think maybe the intital run didtn't get things hot enough for a proper re-torque. Will pick up some new bolts and will add a little blue locktite.
I got my new Clymer manual today from ProCycle (thanks!) and I looked through it quickly and found what it says for the header bolts.

Page 66

6.b. Install a new gasket jnto the cylinder head exhaust port.
6.c. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads.
6.d. Tighten the exhaust pipe retaining bolts securely.

6.f. Retighten the bolts after running the engine and allowing it to cool.

I didn't look at my Suzi factory manual but I expect it to say the same thing.
Anti-seize and retighten.

Not sure what torque value "securely" is though
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:55 PM   #72367
Cobain
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I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:20 PM   #72368
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I got my new Clymer manual today from ProCycle (thanks!) and I looked through it quickly and found what it says for the header bolts.

Page 66

6.b. Install a new gasket jnto the cylinder head exhaust port.
6.c. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads.
6.d. Tighten the exhaust pipe retaining bolts securely.

6.f. Retighten the bolts after running the engine and allowing it to cool.

I didn't look at my Suzi factory manual but I expect it to say the same thing.
Anti-seize and retighten.


Not sure what torque value "securely" is though
According to my manual, Exhaust bolts torque to 26NM
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:50 AM   #72369
gippyphil
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
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Cry

Help me, DR650 riders, you're my only hope!

I dropped my 2011 DR, and bent the bars. By all accounts, this is not uncommon, and I have been reading threads on bar recommendations. However, it seems that the part the "bottom" part of the left bar clamp is also bent back about 10-15 degrees (see photo). This appears to be bolted on to the top of the forks (I can feel a bolt hole on the underside). If so, what is this replacement part called? If not, what is the whole "top of the forks" part called, and can it be fixed?

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Old 01-01-2013, 01:12 AM   #72370
trailrider383
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Dropped? It looks like you hit a truck at 80 mph. The bar mount is mounted in rubber through the top triple clamp so you might be able to tweak that back in line.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:13 AM   #72371
PHILinFRANCE
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@ GIPPYPHIL
Get some RENTHAL BARS to replace the bent ones , and by the look of it from your pic the BAR CLAMP does look to bad ................take the bars of and get some better pics please
Phil
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:57 AM   #72372
gippyphil
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80mph?! I wish - that would at least be a great story to tell. I got into the wrong track on a heavily rutted farming road and lost the front end at about 30-40kph.

gippyphil screwed with this post 01-01-2013 at 02:12 AM
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:01 AM   #72373
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
It's really not that difficult. Practice makes it easier.

You likely didn't keep the tire down in the deep part of the rim while trying to lever it on so it was probably a lot harder than it should be. Maybe you should get an old wheel and practice a few times? Knowing how to fix it will get you out of a long walk someday.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:10 AM   #72374
TrophyHunter
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As PhilinFrance mentioned - better pics needed, It is possible all is okay with the clamp, or you just bent the mounting bolt, The clamp mounting bolt goes thru the mount and the mount reminds me of a rubber dome covered by a metal cup. You can get a lot of movement out of it on a crash before you do real damage, I've loosened everything up and reset it a couple of times with no issues on mine after some minor dirt naps,

Bars are a personal choice but PinF makes a good recommendation. I went with ProCycles big bar kit and risers. I like it,

Do a part by part disassembly with pics at each stage. It'll help with the diagnosis and give ya something to look at on reassembly. Most importantly, you're okay enough to type about it - no major personal body damage.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:13 AM   #72375
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
A mans got to know his limitations. It just takes a little practice, patience, and the right tools.
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