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Old 01-01-2013, 01:12 AM   #72361
trailrider383
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Dropped? It looks like you hit a truck at 80 mph. The bar mount is mounted in rubber through the top triple clamp so you might be able to tweak that back in line.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:13 AM   #72362
PHILinFRANCE
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@ GIPPYPHIL
Get some RENTHAL BARS to replace the bent ones , and by the look of it from your pic the BAR CLAMP does look to bad ................take the bars of and get some better pics please
Phil
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:57 AM   #72363
gippyphil
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80mph?! I wish - that would at least be a great story to tell. I got into the wrong track on a heavily rutted farming road and lost the front end at about 30-40kph.

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Old 01-01-2013, 06:01 AM   #72364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
It's really not that difficult. Practice makes it easier.

You likely didn't keep the tire down in the deep part of the rim while trying to lever it on so it was probably a lot harder than it should be. Maybe you should get an old wheel and practice a few times? Knowing how to fix it will get you out of a long walk someday.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:10 AM   #72365
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As PhilinFrance mentioned - better pics needed, It is possible all is okay with the clamp, or you just bent the mounting bolt, The clamp mounting bolt goes thru the mount and the mount reminds me of a rubber dome covered by a metal cup. You can get a lot of movement out of it on a crash before you do real damage, I've loosened everything up and reset it a couple of times with no issues on mine after some minor dirt naps,

Bars are a personal choice but PinF makes a good recommendation. I went with ProCycles big bar kit and risers. I like it,

Do a part by part disassembly with pics at each stage. It'll help with the diagnosis and give ya something to look at on reassembly. Most importantly, you're okay enough to type about it - no major personal body damage.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:13 AM   #72366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
A mans got to know his limitations. It just takes a little practice, patience, and the right tools.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:33 AM   #72367
Mambo Dave
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Use talc powder (baby powder) all over tubes to allow them to slip & slide around while putting them in there. The last set of tires I did (the DR650's) I used baby powder on the tire beads (instead of soapy water) as well. Hard to believe I didn't screw all of it up, but the Shinkos are still holding air and good to go.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:24 AM   #72368
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
It's really not that difficult. Practice makes it easier.

You likely didn't keep the tire down in the deep part of the rim while trying to lever it on so it was probably a lot harder than it should be. Maybe you should get an old wheel and practice a few times? Knowing how to fix it will get you out of a long walk someday.
[QUOTE=Mambo Dave;20370237]Use talc powder (baby powder) all over tubes to allow them to slip & slide around while putting them in there.


These two pieces of advice are the biggest factors in an easy and successful tire change. Keeping the beads of the tire all the way into the rim (deepest part of the \-/ ) opposite where you are working your tire spoons is key. I have recently seen a zip tye used to keep the tire clamped together so that this is easier to accomplish, (I'm sure ERO7-S will be along with pictures shortly, lol). I started off using dish soap and water but have recently also switched to talc, both work great, talc is easier to carry and I've heard it helps keep the tube from chaffing after install too. You should use some kind of lube or something is going to get hurt. Like Emm said, this is a MUST HAVE skill if you ever plan to leave a paved road for any distance and will make you feel more comfortable doing so. I replaced my first tube in the field last summer after eight years of riding and it was a snap. It didn't take me much longer than it usually does in my shop and it was a good feeling to be able to fix it and keep riding. Don't get discouraged, its all in the technique and you can learn that with a little practice.

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Old 01-01-2013, 09:56 AM   #72369
sandwash
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Had two new Shinko 230 Tour Masters to put on,the front one went on good and seated/no leaks.The rear one was tough,went to air up and it started spitting air.38-40$ at the shop, 20$ for the tube,16$ for the change out.
And I still have to replace the worn out nobbles with new D606's,front and rear(may just take the rear to the shop,only16$ for change out).
I have been using cable lube(have two buckets of the stuff).
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:01 AM   #72370
JagLite
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Thumb Exhaust bolt torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
According to my manual, Exhaust bolts torque to 26NM
I believe you are thinking the exhaust CLAMP BOLT is the same as the header bolts.

The clamp bolt is torqued to 26nm (19 ft/lb), yes.

Thanks for checking

EDIT;
I had to check what the official Suzi manual says and after a long search I found it in the "periodic maintenance" section.
Page 2-14

You are correct Sir!
Suzi says that ALL the exhaust bolts are the same at 26nm (19 ft/lb)

So Clymer doesn't put the bolts in the same group in their new manual
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JagLite screwed with this post 01-01-2013 at 02:38 PM Reason: Researhing correct torque
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:09 AM   #72371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippyphil View Post
Help me, DR650 riders, you're my only hope!

I dropped my 2011 DR, and bent the bars. By all accounts, this is not uncommon, and I have been reading threads on bar recommendations. However, it seems that the part the "bottom" part of the left bar clamp is also bent back about 10-15 degrees (see photo). This appears to be bolted on to the top of the forks (I can feel a bolt hole on the underside). If so, what is this replacement part called? If not, what is the whole "top of the forks" part called, and can it be fixed?

It's possible that nothing is actually bent. My bars were tweaked a lot after a crash as well. Try this before spending money on new stuff. Roll the bike up so the front wheel is next to something solid (telephone pole, wall, truck bumper, etc). Turn the handlebars in the direction necessary to make them align with the front wheel WITHOUT ALLOWING THE FRONT WHEEL TO TURN (steer, not roll).
The handlebars are rubber mounted and can easily be aligned and misaligned for damage resistance in crashes.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #72372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippyphil View Post
Help me, DR650 riders, you're my only hope!

I dropped my 2011 DR, and bent the bars. By all accounts, this is not uncommon, and I have been reading threads on bar recommendations. However, it seems that the part the "bottom" part of the left bar clamp is also bent back about 10-15 degrees (see photo). This appears to be bolted on to the top of the forks (I can feel a bolt hole on the underside). If so, what is this replacement part called? If not, what is the whole "top of the forks" part called, and can it be fixed?

Loosen the bolts on the bar clamps. There are rubber cones (parts 12 &13 in the attached diagram)that are probably deformed. They will go back to their original shape as soon as you unclamp the bars. Be sure bolt # 11 isn't bent.

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID.../STEERING_STEM
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #72373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
It's possible that nothing is actually bent.
He's definitely got bent parts. The bars are toast and the bolt that goes through the left clamp is obviously very bent. It's a pretty easy fix. The front end may also be twisted but the place to start is new bars and a new clamp bolt.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:05 PM   #72374
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
Tires are tough, no question. Experience helps ... but I've been doing it for years and still suffer ... but I'm cheap and don't have all the best and proper tools. Having the right tools and techniques really makes things much easier. Take it from a "right bodger" !

On the DR certain rear road tires can be VERY tough to break the bead on.
A real bead breaker is a must. The Avon Distanzia can be a real BEAR to break the bead on.

For remounting try using the BIG Zip tie method. Documented here somewhere ... but basically using 4 or 5 BIG HD Zip ties to squish the two beads together to get the tire beads deep into the wheel well. This means less chance to pinch a tube and easier to pop it back on. Good smooth nose irons really help too. Once tire is on ... pull Zip ties out!

But in the end ... if you have room and some extra cash ... think about something like the No-Mar tire machine. A God Send!
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:17 PM   #72375
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
He's definitely got bent parts. The bars are toast and the bolt that goes through the left clamp is obviously very bent. It's a pretty easy fix. The front end may also be twisted but the place to start is new bars and a new clamp bolt.
Have to agree ... those bars do look bent. So many times its just the rubber steering dampers tweaked and no real bent bars ... but in this case stuff looks bent to me.

As noted, easy fix. New bars, new through bolt(s). The bolt that is UNDER the handle bars and goes through lower bar mount, through top triple, and through cone shaped rubber damper, nut holds it under triple clamp.
Forks may be tweaked too ... just tap them on a pole or curb to straighten or loosen upper and lower triple clamp bolts, wiggle bars, re-tighten.
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