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Old 01-01-2013, 07:48 PM   #72391
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
As others have said, it takes practice. I did the front first since most people said it was easier, and it was a nightmare. It came complete with me throwing tire spoons and much swearing. The hardest part for me was getting the tube stem through the rim hole, though I eventually got it.

I was sweating the rear bad. It took like 35 minutes, and thats the second tire (first rear) I had ever done. How? All the advice available on the internet. I baby powdered the tube and inside of the tire, I put the tube on the wheel (with stem through rim hole), used soapy water on the bead, spooned it half on, then fed the tube into the tire, spooned it the rest of the way on (BEING SURE to compress the side opposite of where Im using the spoons and pushing it as far into the recess as possible).

When I would spoon the tire on, I made sure I took small bites and that the bites were "shallow". We tend to want to jam the irons in there to get a good grip, but that is a great way (so others say) to pinch a tube. I also made sure when I put the tube in that it had a little air in it- not enough to be firm, but enough where its not flopping around as much; others mention this also helps the tube not getting pinched.

I am no master at this- im just relaying what worked for me and that you shouldnt be scared of it. I would definitely try to master this before you do any long trips..

Anyone have a stance on whether the nut should be tightened up against the rim or whether it should be up against the stem cap (leaving space between the nut and rim)? I read that tightening it down helps keep dirt out, but if running lower pressure the tire can slip on the rim a little and tear the valve stem. If you leave the nut away from the rim, the stem can "bend" a bit without tearing. On the other hand, it also must let some dirt in.

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:10 PM   #72392
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
When the spark plug is on its way out, with a few threads left, hit the starter and air pressure will blow the dust away. Some people use a small diameter tube to blow the area, using lung pressure. Try both, if you can.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:16 PM   #72393
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Probably my biggest mistake was not getting the tire bead down into the rim recess ..
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:46 PM   #72394
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
Exactly ... and from what I can tell ... that is when those Big 'ol Zip ties really come in handy. I'm going with the HD Zip ties next time!
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:08 PM   #72395
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndthl View Post
Have you done it or know anyone that has?

I just don't have any mechanical knowledge.
Nope, but only the carbs and valves are different...
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:17 PM   #72396
Cobain
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Thanks for the input. I need to get some spoons, i was using (2) 7in. bars that came with the tusk fender pack.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:41 PM   #72397
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
A visual for those wondering WTF:
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #72398
Cobain
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wow thats the exact tire i was mounting yesterday. haha
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:24 PM   #72399
JTB488
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Gippyphil, Man you have a tiny garage!
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:39 PM   #72400
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
Blowing it out with a drinking straw works fairly well.

I take a inflation needle for a basketball, cut off the very end to open it up and use it with my little tire pump that I run off the bike's battery. This works surprisingly well as an air hose.

...........shu
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:08 AM   #72401
1Waipukbiker
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Location: Waipukurau, New Zealand
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Just to change the subject, I want to upgrade the front fork springs and not sure between stiffer stock springs or progressive rate springs, any comments from experiance?

Thanks
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:58 AM   #72402
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
Buy a can of compressed air they sell for cleaning computer keyboards and such. Dig around in there with something, blow with the air. Break the plugs loose a turn or two; blow with more air. If you think you are done do it again just to be sure!

DO NOT do what Emm said and crank the engine with the spark plug hanging on by only a few threads! Not only is the piston going to push air out..it sucks air in. Also, a DR cranks with about 100-130 PSI of cranking compression and only having 2-3 threads on a plug and cranking can lead to damaged threads.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:08 AM   #72403
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
Alright, so I don't exactly know what everyone means when they're referring to this. Assuming the side of the tire facing up is "Side A," and the side facing the floor is "Side B," and I'm trying to spoon the tire on at the 12 o'clock position, am I using my knees to push side A into the dish, or am I reaching down with my hand to compress sides A and B into the dish?
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:14 AM   #72404
blk-betty
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I believe you are thinking the exhaust CLAMP BOLT is the same as the header bolts.

The clamp bolt is torqued to 26nm (19 ft/lb), yes.

Thanks for checking

EDIT;
I had to check what the official Suzi manual says and after a long search I found it in the "periodic maintenance" section.
Page 2-14

You are correct Sir!
Suzi says that ALL the exhaust bolts are the same at 26nm (19 ft/lb)

So Clymer doesn't put the bolts in the same group in their new manual

Thanks for the tq spec...I'm pretty certain I had them tightened to more than 19 ft lbs..that really isn't a lot. Got to see if my local True Value has a replecment bolt otherwise will check with the dealer to see if they have any in stock.

Will reinstall with the anit-sieze.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:25 AM   #72405
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Thanks for the input. I need to get some spoons, i was using (2) 7in. bars that came with the tusk fender pack.

I used to use tire irons like these and pinched alot of tubes.


Then I bought a set of these and it's been easy since.








Keeping the tire down in the rim is paramount. It also helps to put some air in the tube. just enough to make it round and that helps it stay outta the way of the irons. be sure to use soapy water as a lubricant.
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