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Old 01-01-2013, 11:05 AM   #72391
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
Tires are tough, no question. Experience helps ... but I've been doing it for years and still suffer ... but I'm cheap and don't have all the best and proper tools. Having the right tools and techniques really makes things much easier. Take it from a "right bodger" !

On the DR certain rear road tires can be VERY tough to break the bead on.
A real bead breaker is a must. The Avon Distanzia can be a real BEAR to break the bead on.

For remounting try using the BIG Zip tie method. Documented here somewhere ... but basically using 4 or 5 BIG HD Zip ties to squish the two beads together to get the tire beads deep into the wheel well. This means less chance to pinch a tube and easier to pop it back on. Good smooth nose irons really help too. Once tire is on ... pull Zip ties out!

But in the end ... if you have room and some extra cash ... think about something like the No-Mar tire machine. A God Send!
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:17 AM   #72392
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
He's definitely got bent parts. The bars are toast and the bolt that goes through the left clamp is obviously very bent. It's a pretty easy fix. The front end may also be twisted but the place to start is new bars and a new clamp bolt.
Have to agree ... those bars do look bent. So many times its just the rubber steering dampers tweaked and no real bent bars ... but in this case stuff looks bent to me.

As noted, easy fix. New bars, new through bolt(s). The bolt that is UNDER the handle bars and goes through lower bar mount, through top triple, and through cone shaped rubber damper, nut holds it under triple clamp.
Forks may be tweaked too ... just tap them on a pole or curb to straighten or loosen upper and lower triple clamp bolts, wiggle bars, re-tighten.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:44 PM   #72393
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
These two pieces of advice are the biggest factors in an easy and successful tire change. Keeping the beads of the tire all the way into the rim (deepest part of the \-/ ) opposite where you are working your tire spoons is key. I have recently seen a zip tye used to keep the tire clamped together so that this is easier to accomplish, (I'm sure ER70-S will be along with pictures shortly, lol).


Poor guy couldn't figure out that it's ok to use his knees to hold the wheel and tire down. When you have a tube, start at the valve stem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=S6WPzRRJLpA
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Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I started off using dish soap and water but have recently also switched to talc, both work great, talc is easier to carry and I've heard it helps keep the tube from chaffing after install too. You should use some kind of lube or something is going to get hurt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Like Emm said, this is a MUST HAVE skill if you ever plan to leave a paved road for any distance and will make you feel more comfortable doing so. I replaced my first tube in the field last summer after eight years of riding and it was a snap. It didn't take me much longer than it usually does in my shop and it was a good feeling to be able to fix it and keep riding. Don't get discouraged, its all in the technique and you can learn that with a little practice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gippyphil View Post
Help me, DR650 riders, you're my only hope!

I dropped my 2011 DR, and bent the bars. By all accounts, this is not uncommon, and I have been reading threads on bar recommendations. However, it seems that the part the "bottom" part of the left bar clamp is also bent back about 10-15 degrees (see photo). This appears to be bolted on to the top of the forks (I can feel a bolt hole on the underside). If so, what is this replacement part called? If not, what is the whole "top of the forks" part called, and can it be fixed?

For the hard of seeing; the bars are bent, look at the cross bar right at the speedo. Phil, see Rusty's link for the bolt you want to check. If it's bent too, I would buy a new one and not try to straighten yours.

The 'top of the forks' is called the upper triple clamp. It's probably not bent, but is replaceable.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:55 PM   #72394
gippyphil
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Thanks everyone for your advice - I will take the bars apart tonight and have a look-see. Looking at how some of the bar clamps work, I can see that the through-bolt may not be bent, but at least it's a cheap part if it is. That stage-by-stage photo tip is a good one - I have used that in the past when disassembling machinery prior to moving it.

I will see what Renthal bars are available around here locally, and failing that order some online. I think this is a good time to get some higher bars, and/or some bar risers, as the stock DR bars are way to low for (6' 2") me to ride standing up.

Also, I'm going to get some decent knobby tires for the bike as that was at least a contributing factor to me coming off. I notice that's a strongly debated area, but it seems everyone agrees that anything is better offroad than the stock tires.
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:38 PM   #72395
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New set of Renthal bars and grips, Dunlop 606s to be fitted next week :)
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:25 PM   #72396
Carl Childers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
For years I was terrible at tires.......always pinching a tube, struggling to get the tire on the rim, total frustration! Probably my biggest mistake was not getting the tire bead down into the rim recess . Then a pal who is a pro flat tracker and has changed more than his share in the early days of his race career helped me change a few tires and walked me through it step by step. Since then I've been Mr Tire, have my own balancer and do all my bikes myself which saves me a lot of $$.

The reason I mention all this is to say use the mounting tips the other members have posted and with some patience and practice you'll have it down and be and old hand at changing tires in no time.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:04 PM   #72397
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Then a pal who is a pro flat tracker and has changed more than his share in the early days of his race career helped me change a few tires and walked me through it step by step. Since then I've been Mr Tire, have my own balancer and do all my bikes myself which saves me a lot of $$.

The reason I mention all this is to say use the mounting tips the other members have posted and with some patience and practice you'll have it down and be and old hand at changing tires in no time.
My riding buddy is a 2 time 6 Days ISDE rider and multi time East Coast Enduro Grand Champion.
Can change a tube out quicker time then most take just to get the wheel off the bike

But I can and do it, myself. A must know skill to have for sure.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:28 PM   #72398
GSF1200S
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Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
In my opinion, anyone who would buy a new DR650 is either very mechanically ignorant, desperate, or simply not very smart. I know that statement might seem kinda harsh, but you have to realize if you could find a nice 1996 DR650 somewhere, it would be essentially the same motorcycle as a 2012 DR650.

I bought a pretty nice 2000 DR650 late last summer from a really nice guy moving from Nebraska to Flordia (hope things are going well for you Jerry) for $1800. The bike had just a tick over 10,000 miles, which is nothing to a DR motor. The 2000 DR650 I now own was mostly ridden on the street and was very clean and well maintained. While I could have chosen to ride it AS-IS, and simply continue to do routine maintenance; and probably ride it for many years and then re-sell it; I have chosen to take the money I have saved on NOT buying anywhere close to new, and I am in the process of transforming my soon-to-be thirteen year old bike into one that is much better than a new bike at far under what a new bike costs.

You asked our advice, and my advice is to find a well-cared for used DR650, buy it, replace all the consumables it needs, continue to do routine maintenance, ride it, and enjoy it knowing you saved thousands of dollars over someone who bought a new DR650; which as I mentioned is essentially the same bike you will be riding regardless of model year.
I did exactly as you describe, and for the most part I agree with you. However, if I were going to South America, Id buy new and get the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. If you could manage to find one 2010 and up where it only had one owner, that would work too since I believe you can buy the warranty if you are the 2nd owner of the bike. That is a huge huge boon to have when taking a trip like that. Say something freak happens (is 3rd gear really a freak?)- that could be the difference between the end of your trip or simply a (possibly long) delay.

For that matter, despite my bike having only 7500 miles and it mostly being commuted in an area with few stop lights, I sometimes wish I had bought new just for that warranty- thats a big slice of piece of mind.

But again, I do agree in principle. Especially if not taking a long trip, you could even get a spare motor from a wrecked DR and keep it on the side. Thats piece of mind and costs about the same as a warranty.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:48 PM   #72399
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
As others have said, it takes practice. I did the front first since most people said it was easier, and it was a nightmare. It came complete with me throwing tire spoons and much swearing. The hardest part for me was getting the tube stem through the rim hole, though I eventually got it.

I was sweating the rear bad. It took like 35 minutes, and thats the second tire (first rear) I had ever done. How? All the advice available on the internet. I baby powdered the tube and inside of the tire, I put the tube on the wheel (with stem through rim hole), used soapy water on the bead, spooned it half on, then fed the tube into the tire, spooned it the rest of the way on (BEING SURE to compress the side opposite of where Im using the spoons and pushing it as far into the recess as possible).

When I would spoon the tire on, I made sure I took small bites and that the bites were "shallow". We tend to want to jam the irons in there to get a good grip, but that is a great way (so others say) to pinch a tube. I also made sure when I put the tube in that it had a little air in it- not enough to be firm, but enough where its not flopping around as much; others mention this also helps the tube not getting pinched.

I am no master at this- im just relaying what worked for me and that you shouldnt be scared of it. I would definitely try to master this before you do any long trips..

Anyone have a stance on whether the nut should be tightened up against the rim or whether it should be up against the stem cap (leaving space between the nut and rim)? I read that tightening it down helps keep dirt out, but if running lower pressure the tire can slip on the rim a little and tear the valve stem. If you leave the nut away from the rim, the stem can "bend" a bit without tearing. On the other hand, it also must let some dirt in.

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:10 PM   #72400
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
When the spark plug is on its way out, with a few threads left, hit the starter and air pressure will blow the dust away. Some people use a small diameter tube to blow the area, using lung pressure. Try both, if you can.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:16 PM   #72401
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Probably my biggest mistake was not getting the tire bead down into the rim recess ..
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:46 PM   #72402
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
Exactly ... and from what I can tell ... that is when those Big 'ol Zip ties really come in handy. I'm going with the HD Zip ties next time!
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:08 PM   #72403
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by ndthl View Post
Have you done it or know anyone that has?

I just don't have any mechanical knowledge.
Nope, but only the carbs and valves are different...
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #72404
Cobain
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Thanks for the input. I need to get some spoons, i was using (2) 7in. bars that came with the tusk fender pack.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:41 PM   #72405
ER70S-2
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
A visual for those wondering WTF:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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