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Old 01-01-2013, 10:39 PM   #72391
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 991
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
Blowing it out with a drinking straw works fairly well.

I take a inflation needle for a basketball, cut off the very end to open it up and use it with my little tire pump that I run off the bike's battery. This works surprisingly well as an air hose.

...........shu
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:08 AM   #72392
1Waipukbiker
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Just to change the subject, I want to upgrade the front fork springs and not sure between stiffer stock springs or progressive rate springs, any comments from experiance?

Thanks
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:58 AM   #72393
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)
Buy a can of compressed air they sell for cleaning computer keyboards and such. Dig around in there with something, blow with the air. Break the plugs loose a turn or two; blow with more air. If you think you are done do it again just to be sure!

DO NOT do what Emm said and crank the engine with the spark plug hanging on by only a few threads! Not only is the piston going to push air out..it sucks air in. Also, a DR cranks with about 100-130 PSI of cranking compression and only having 2-3 threads on a plug and cranking can lead to damaged threads.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:08 AM   #72394
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
A lot of people think just keeping the tire in the rim recess right across from where your levers are is enough. They are the ones struggling with the job. You have to keep as much of the bead in the recess as possible.
Alright, so I don't exactly know what everyone means when they're referring to this. Assuming the side of the tire facing up is "Side A," and the side facing the floor is "Side B," and I'm trying to spoon the tire on at the 12 o'clock position, am I using my knees to push side A into the dish, or am I reaching down with my hand to compress sides A and B into the dish?
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:14 AM   #72395
blk-betty
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I believe you are thinking the exhaust CLAMP BOLT is the same as the header bolts.

The clamp bolt is torqued to 26nm (19 ft/lb), yes.

Thanks for checking

EDIT;
I had to check what the official Suzi manual says and after a long search I found it in the "periodic maintenance" section.
Page 2-14

You are correct Sir!
Suzi says that ALL the exhaust bolts are the same at 26nm (19 ft/lb)

So Clymer doesn't put the bolts in the same group in their new manual

Thanks for the tq spec...I'm pretty certain I had them tightened to more than 19 ft lbs..that really isn't a lot. Got to see if my local True Value has a replecment bolt otherwise will check with the dealer to see if they have any in stock.

Will reinstall with the anit-sieze.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:25 AM   #72396
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Thanks for the input. I need to get some spoons, i was using (2) 7in. bars that came with the tusk fender pack.

I used to use tire irons like these and pinched alot of tubes.


Then I bought a set of these and it's been easy since.








Keeping the tire down in the rim is paramount. It also helps to put some air in the tube. just enough to make it round and that helps it stay outta the way of the irons. be sure to use soapy water as a lubricant.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:08 AM   #72397
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Blowing it out with a drinking straw works fairly well.

I take a inflation needle for a basketball, cut off the very end to open it up and use it with my little tire pump that I run off the bike's battery. This works surprisingly well as an air hose.

...........shu
Likewise, get a shop-vac, or any vacuum with a hose, a plastic bag or baggie (or a piece of pastic) and that same straw. Stick the straw through the plastic, then hold it and the plastic up to block the vacuum hose so it makes the vacuum suck through the straw.

---

I have two long tire irons that have curves in them, and while they won't fit in a fender bag, those and perhaps one spoon would be ideal I'd think.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:48 AM   #72398
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Alright, so I don't exactly know what everyone means when they're referring to this. Assuming the side of the tire facing up is "Side A," and the side facing the floor is "Side B," and I'm trying to spoon the tire on at the 12 o'clock position, am I using my knees to push side A into the dish, or am I reaching down with my hand to compress sides A and B into the dish?
The point is not to only push the tire into the dish at 6 o'clock but to push it in from say 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock or as much of the circumference as possible.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:55 AM   #72399
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The point is not to only push the tire into the dish at 6 o'clock but to push it in from say 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock or as much of the circumference as possible.
Neduro's big tire change thread is really a good thing to go through if you really want to learn all the tricks about changing tires.
I learned about pulling the tire bead off both sides of the rim and then stuff the wheel inside the tire to get the tire off the rim.
Its so much easier I about kicked myself for all the times Ive done it the hard way.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #72400
victor441
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Tires are tough, no question. Experience helps ... but I've been doing it for years and still suffer ... but I'm cheap and don't have all the best and proper tools. Having the right tools and techniques really makes things much easier. Take it from a "right bodger" !

On the DR certain rear road tires can be VERY tough to break the bead on.
A real bead breaker is a must. The Avon Distanzia can be a real BEAR to break the bead on.

For remounting try using the BIG Zip tie method. Documented here somewhere ... but basically using 4 or 5 BIG HD Zip ties to squish the two beads together to get the tire beads deep into the wheel well. This means less chance to pinch a tube and easier to pop it back on. Good smooth nose irons really help too. Once tire is on ... pull Zip ties out!

But in the end ... if you have room and some extra cash ... think about something like the No-Mar tire machine. A God Send!
I've been using six zip ties, works great, and it would be nearly impossible to pinch a tube this way...the tube is inflated just enough to round out and in put in the tire before the zip ties are applied. Little force is needed to get the tire on the rim. Real tire mounting lube helps a lot too, Napa sells a gallon for $12 or so. The original thread where I learned the zip tie trick is at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597 (learned recently, mounted a few tires easily, and have the zeal of the newly converted ;-) FWIW the zip ties can be reused too, the locking tab can be released with a small screwdriver.




victor441 screwed with this post 01-02-2013 at 10:13 AM
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:23 AM   #72401
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 991
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Alright, so I don't exactly know what everyone means when they're referring to this. Assuming the side of the tire facing up is "Side A," and the side facing the floor is "Side B," and I'm trying to spoon the tire on at the 12 o'clock position, am I using my knees to push side A into the dish, or am I reaching down with my hand to compress sides A and B into the dish?




Everything you do will be on 'side A'.

1.Get some real tire lube from an auto parts store or online.
Brush it on with a small cheap paintbrush around the whole tire bead. In my experience real tire lube will stay wet and slippery longer than a soap mixture which evaporates pretty fast.


2. Get a 'bead buddy' ($10 available almost any shop or on line) and put it on the rim at your 6:00 position. That will hold the tire down at that point in the deepest part of the wheel well. Kneel on the tire at 4:00 and 8:00. Now you are holding almost half the tire bead down in that well.

2. Use 3 tire irons. Start working at the tire just an inch past where your knee is holding the bead down. That would be at 3:00 or 9:00. Once you have levered that little bit on, leave the tire iron in and put your knee on it to keep from losing the bit you have gained. Take another little bite with another tire iron- either on that same side or by the other knee.

3. Keep working around until you are close to 12:00. All the while keep your focus on making sure the tire remains deep in the well. If it starts to take a lot of force to get a little bite of the tire over the rim, that means the other part of the tire is starting to creep up out of the well- put some lube on it and get it back down.

4. Depending on the tire, the last bite can take a little more force or sometimes it will just pop over the rim easily. Put some more lube on and judge your use of force- it is possible to tear the bead of the tire or break the internal wires that make it up.

5. When you're out getting your tire lube and bead buddy also pick up another ten dollar item: a tire valve 'snake' (I forget the real name). It.s a little piece of wire attached to a threaded bit that will thread into the valve of the tube. This little item will save you bruised and battered hands and a lot of cussing getting the valve stem in through the hole in the wheel.



It takes some practice. You'll get it and learn your own tricks on the way.

...............shu
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:51 AM   #72402
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
DO NOT do what Emm said and crank the engine with the spark plug hanging on by only a few threads! Not only is the piston going to push air out..it sucks air in. Also, a DR cranks with about 100-130 PSI of cranking compression and only having 2-3 threads on a plug and cranking can lead to damaged threads.
Relax - I'm not saying he should start the engine - this is an emergency measure where you have to stop sand getting into the hole. A couple of quick starter pushes are not going to damage anything. I've done it many times.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:59 PM   #72403
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I used to use tire irons like these and pinched alot of tubes.


Then I bought a set of these and it's been easy since.








Keeping the tire down in the rim is paramount. It also helps to put some air in the tube. just enough to make it round and that helps it stay outta the way of the irons. be sure to use soapy water as a lubricant.
I have the red handle tire irons ... great! Very easy on tubes!
I put air in my tube once the get the TUBE in the tire .... this to straighten it out and make sure there are no "folds" in the tube.

BUT ... after that ... I pull the valve stem OUT and 100% deflate it. Too much air in the tube will make mounting the tire much tougher.
Don't ask me how I know this!!

Some guys use wood or plastic wedges to force and HOLD tire bead/side wall down into wheel well. The Zip Tie method does a similar thing ... but compresses BOTH sides of the tire ... allowing the tire beads to drop in. Makes spooning on the tire easier.
REMEMBER: Small bites! Don't get in a hurry!
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:15 PM   #72404
planemanx15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 1,007
Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:25 PM   #72405
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
5. When you're out getting your tire lube and bead buddy also pick up another ten dollar item: a tire valve 'snake' (I forget the real name). It.s a little piece of wire attached to a threaded bit that will thread into the valve of the tube. This little item will save you bruised and battered hands and a lot of cussing getting the valve stem in through the hole in the wheel.

It takes some practice. You'll get it and learn your own tricks on the way.

...............shu
Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

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