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Old 01-04-2013, 04:13 PM   #72496
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Anyone know about HID hi/lo bulbs? are they total fail system or can 1 side, hi or lo still work?
Eakins, this might answer your question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
They're not a dual filament bulb like we are used to. They are not a filament bulb at all in fact, but a bulb of gas that gets excited and glows brightly when it does. They dip by having a solenoid move the bulb along a rail so the focal point moves inside the lense of the light. If you look at an H4 bulb closely you'll see the 2 filaments in different places, so the dipping H4 HID attempts to mimick that.

Works fine and there isn't much extra wiring, and what there is is all at the headlight. It plugs into the standard H4 socket instead of the original bulb, and has a feed from the battery.

I got a car setup that is pretty much the same price as single bike ones and got some as yet unsued spares.

I just found this site that may assist:
http://www.yourcustomcar.com/hid-lights.html
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:14 PM   #72497
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Just wondering, has any done a HIR bulb (w/ the notch mod to fit H4) and used it an the DR housing? or something like this http://www.lightbulbs4cars.com/product/HIRH4 with an H4 base but with low only? you of course are the 40w the opposite direction of the 35w HID kit.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:22 PM   #72498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Eakins, this might answer your question:
thanks.
i did read that and should have taken that as him saying it's a single bulb housing so when it fails it the whole thing fails.

it's easy enough to bring or find an H4 bulb when on the road, so if something fails with HID, you can always pop back in a H4 and plug back in the wiring harness plug and you're back to stock.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:39 PM   #72499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
thanks.
i did read that and should have taken that as him saying it's a single bulb housing so when it fails it the whole thing fails.

it's easy enough to bring or find an H4 bulb when on the road, so if something fails with HID, you can always pop back in a H4 and plug back in the wiring harness plug and you're back to stock.
That's the bottom line. How you wire it up is your choice. I still ahve the extra relays in mine from the stock bulb and no longer needed, but if I revert, its just a bulb swap.

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Old 01-04-2013, 09:59 PM   #72500
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cold running

I frequently ride in cold temps (as long as the roads are dry). Recently I set a new record for myself.

When it's in the 30's and 40's *F, I find it takes the DR (w/ stock BST carb) about 3-4 minutes warming up in the driveway and another 6-8 minutes of easy running on the road to fully warm up and run smoothly.

In the 20's it takes a bit longer and really runs pretty rough at lower rpms for 10-15 minutes. In the low 20's I usually velcro a piece of cardboard in front of the oil cooler screen guard to block some of the direct air flow.

A few days ago, I rode out at midday when the temps were in the 30's and stayed out longer than I expected. When I started home from Denver in the dark it was about 20* and by the time I got to my house in the mountains it was just 3*. Brrrrrrrrr.

I found the DR with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when I pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.

Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40)

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor?

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open?

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler?

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler?

All opinions welcome.

Thanks......................shu
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:55 PM   #72501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
"...if I were going to South America, Id buy new and get the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty..." "Say something freak happens (is 3rd gear really a freak?)- that could be the difference between the end of your trip or simply a (possibly long) delay..."

..."I sometimes wish I had bought new just for that warranty- thats a big slice of piece of mind..."

..."you could even get a spare motor from a wrecked DR and keep it on the side. Thats piece of mind and costs about the same as a warranty.
Not to burst your pretend bubble, but just exactly how/where would a person find "warranty" service in the Bolivian Altoplano? Or just about anywhere in Central America or South America.

Not to mention the thousands of dollars saved in not buying new will fund months of actual riding for me in South America. To each his own, and I realize not everyone has mechanical abilities, experience, tools, or a place to work on their bikes, but I would never buy a new Japanese bike simply for a warranty.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:01 PM   #72502
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I bought new, but it wasn't for the warranty. It was because they are scarce (reasonably priced) around here. Typically they have farkles I don't want, so I'd be spending farkle money anyway. Also, mileage is time owned, for me. The mileage on most used bikes is a couple or more years of ownership, sometimes it's more than several years of ownership.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:31 PM   #72503
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holy hell, my DR is parked in the garage waiting for 50 degree days.
you're a trooper. it was 40 today in FC.

i doubt that oil cooler being blocked off would make any difference until you hit alot warmer temps. i think i've read guys riding DR with the oil eliminated.

i think the cold would make your bike run real rich anyway and that is what you're experiencing. i'd leave that card board on till it goes above 50 and ride away.


Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I frequently ride in cold temps (as long as the roads are dry). Recently I set a new record for myself.

When it's in the 30's and 40's *F, I find it takes the DR (w/ stock BST carb) about 3-4 minutes warming up in the driveway and another 6-8 minutes of easy running on the road to fully warm up and run smoothly.

In the 20's it takes a bit longer and really runs pretty rough at lower rpms for 10-15 minutes. In the low 20's I usually velcro a piece of cardboard in front of the oil cooler screen guard to block some of the direct air flow.

A few days ago, I rode out at midday when the temps were in the 30's and stayed out longer than I expected. When I started home from Denver in the dark it was about 20* and by the time I got to my house in the mountains it was just 3*. Brrrrrrrrr.

I found the DR with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when I pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.

Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40)

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor?

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open?

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler?

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler?

All opinions welcome.

Thanks......................shu
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:44 PM   #72504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Not to burst your pretend bubble, but just exactly how/where would a person find "warranty" service in the Bolivian Altoplano? Or just about anywhere in Central America or South America.

Not to mention the thousands of dollars saved in not buying new will fund months of actual riding for me in South America. To each his own, and I realize not everyone has mechanical abilities, experience, tools, or a place to work on their bikes, but I would never buy a new Japanese bike simply for a warranty.
DR is not even sold in many CA countries (not sure about SA) and in ones that it is, such as Costa Rica, very rare and probably no parts being stocked anyway. In fact most any bike over 125cc is gonna be an anomaly in much of Latin America.

I wonder if US Suzuki warranties are even honored outside of the US. Having lived in Mexico for a year, I meet a few DR through riders and i'd always ask why a DR650? The answer was always, it's the most reliable 650 on the market, has no radiator and is easy to maintain. Overlanding is about proper vehicle prep, bring spare parts and having some mechanical aptitude not warranties.

I'd say a low mileage, 2004+ would be an ideal used candidate if one can be found.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:59 PM   #72505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I frequently ride in cold temps (as long as the roads are dry). Recently I set a new record for myself.

When it's in the 30's and 40's *F, I find it takes the DR (w/ stock BST carb) about 3-4 minutes warming up in the driveway and another 6-8 minutes of easy running on the road to fully warm up and run smoothly.

In the 20's it takes a bit longer and really runs pretty rough at lower rpms for 10-15 minutes. In the low 20's I usually velcro a piece of cardboard in front of the oil cooler screen guard to block some of the direct air flow.

A few days ago, I rode out at midday when the temps were in the 30's and stayed out longer than I expected. When I started home from Denver in the dark it was about 20* and by the time I got to my house in the mountains it was just 3*. Brrrrrrrrr.

I found the DR with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when I pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.

Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40)

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor?

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open?

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler?

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler?

All opinions welcome.

Thanks......................shu
That's some serious Butt Tough Cold riding! I wimp out in the 40's!
By the 20's I beg for mercy! My biggest worry is black ice. I've only hit it once ... made it through ... barely.

Would going richer on jetting help here? Maybe go rich on needle clip and turn out fuel-air screw? Or leave enricher (choke) on?

Don't know much regards covering the oil cooler but I doubt any damage would be done if you left it covered ... even into the 60's. The engine is still AIR COOLED and the fins do a lot of cooling regardless of the cooler.

I like you're idea of a good warm up when it's super cold. Let those parts warm up before putting a load on them. Syn oil is the way. Perfect for the cold. 10-40 should be OK.

Coldest I've ever ridden in (on motorcycles) is 10F. Nearly died! I had to get from N. Utah down through North rim of Grand Canyon, then South from there were it finally warmed up a bit. I was FROZEN solid.

Of course I rode snow mobiles in the Antarctic at minus 40F! Hardest part?
getting the fricken thing started! That was our record cold for the Winter in that part of the Banana belt of the Antarctic.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:03 AM   #72506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
All opinions welcome.
Alrighty then, here's mine.......................
Disclaimer: my career was sitting at a desk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
i frequently ride in cold temps (as long as the roads are dry). Recently i set a new record for myself.
Records are awesome, I chased and hit my all time summer high: 15,000 miles (start 28,400 - end 43,400).

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
when it's in the 30's and 40's *f, i find it takes the dr (w/ stock bst carb) about 3-4 minutes warming up in the driveway and another 6-8 minutes of easy running on the road to fully warm up and run smoothly.

In the 20's it takes a bit longer and really runs pretty rough at lower rpms for 10-15 minutes. In the low 20's i usually velcro a piece of cardboard in front of the oil cooler screen guard to block some of the direct air flow.

A few days ago, i rode out at midday when the temps were in the 30's and stayed out longer than i expected. When i started home from denver in the dark it was about 20* and by the time i got to my house in the mountains it was just 3*. Brrrrrrrrr.
I found the dr with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when i pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.
When you're experiencing these colder temps (<50*), I'm home watching TV, where I belong. However; if I were knutz like you, I'd get a good oil temp gauge and block airflow until I got the temp up, at least 200*. This would include fastening something to the frame down-tube (like a wide reverse fender blocking the cylinder). Yep, that's what I'd do.

Another note, once inna while I forget to turn off my choke. I'll end up 20 miles from the house and wonder why the bike runs like crap at a light or stop sign. Hmmmmmm About that time the light will go on; I'll look down and sure enough I left the choke on. My point is, the bike will run fine with the choke on, it's only noticeable at idle; when the bike is giving you cold temperature fits, put the choke on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Questions:
1.how bad was that ride for my motor? (synthetic 10 w 40)
Your motor didn't even notice.

Short hot oil opinion: I run full synthetic too. After a few thousand miles (20,000?), I quit thinking about my oil temps. Currently, I feel that my ankles will melt before the DR is compromised by heat. And that's the reason that I run full synthetic. If the Zuki engineers are ok with dino oil (in the manual), I'm ok with anything + full synthetic.

Oops, back to the question:
Cold oil comment: The recent spat of CSS seals unseating themselves has me wondering. The reports say that it's most likely that they'll pop loose right at start-up, so it may be an oil pressure issue; I run 15w-50 so this could affect me directly. Procycle has recently marketed a CSS seal retainer, cheap insurance. www.Procycle.US

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor?
Yes. Once FI is perfected for each motorcycle application, like today's cars, this issue won't exist. IMO But at this time I prefer carbs. If my bike quits somewhere, there would be a 5% chance that I could fix/figure out FI.

Random thought: moisture in the oil (condensation is present most of the time, physics); water turns to steam at 212*, at which time the water is cooked out of the oil. Temps below 212* implies that there is still moisture in the oil/crankase. So just because the moisture turns to steam, how does it get out of the crankcase? The answer: when your bike is running, remove the oil fill cap; you'll feel each time the piston travels down in the cylinder; it displaces a lot of air each time. With the oil cap in place, that same pulse is traveling thru the crankcase vent, displacing most of the crankcase volume within a few minutes. When my oil temps are under 200*, I'm starting to get uncomfortable. No, I don't quit and go home, but I don't care to do that on a regular basis. My oil temp is in the oil pressure port, bottom center of the motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
3. Should i velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open?
The only way to know this accurately, is to have an oil temp gauge. Looking at mine, there is about 5/8" behind the radiator shield. I'd tie the cardboard to the shield, behind it.

This is what I have because it's what was available 'back then' (but pricey)..



Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think i should be wary of using anything to block the cooler?
For me, the oil temp would decide this. I've seen 275* oil temp on a slow, hot summer ride (up Mt. Herman Rd). 275* is a long way under a full synthetic's 'comfort zone'. Watch NASCAR, they're using a full syn, so I'm ok with 'whatever'.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
5. How would i know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler?
Yer boots will melt................... synthetics rock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Thanks......................shu
I lost a little continuity in my reply, it's midnight.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:12 AM   #72507
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Not to burst your pretend bubble, but just exactly how/where would a person find "warranty" service in the Bolivian Altoplano? Or just about anywhere in Central America or South America.

Not to mention the thousands of dollars saved in not buying new will fund months of actual riding for me in South America. To each his own, and I realize not everyone has mechanical abilities, experience, tools, or a place to work on their bikes, but I would never buy a new Japanese bike simply for a warranty.
Well there are Suzuki dealers throughout Latin America ... but they are not that common and mostly only ever in capital cities ... and I'm not even sure if a USA American Suzuki warranty would even be valid out of USA or Canada. Anyone know for sure?

If the warranty IS valid ... and you could find a Suzuki dealer that sells DR650's, then you might be OK.

But generally speaking that ain't happening. Although there are Police forces now using the DR in Ecuador and I think Colombia. Suzuki do well with their Outboard motors down there, so one may find Suzuki Marine dealer. No idea if any could help out.

If Suzuki DID cover but the dealer did not carry DR650's ... well you may be in for quite a wait on parts ... like weeks. But things are looking up as Suzuki, and the DR650, make more inroads into S. America.


Suzuki Freewind in Ecuador (based on DR650)
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:36 AM   #72508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Well there are Suzuki dealers throughout Latin America ... but they are not that common and mostly only ever in capital cities ... and I'm not even sure if a USA American Suzuki warranty would even be valid out of USA or Canada. Anyone know for sure?
FWIW I was told flat out by my authorized dealer that when the bike left the USA ( I was heading to SE Asia) , an extended warranty from Suzuki would no longer be valid. Found out that there are no authorized Suzuki DR 650 mechanics in Thailand. Was able to track down factory trained/ authorized techs for a Hayabusa..but not a DR650.

Canoli

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Old 01-05-2013, 07:52 AM   #72509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post

Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40)

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor?

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open?

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler?

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler?

All opinions welcome.

Thanks......................shu
If you're regularly running those temps I'd switch to a 0W40 weight oil. That's what I run in my quad that I use for a snow plow in the winter. I use Amsoil full synthetic and it looks just like a 10W40 even in minus 20 temps. Good cold flow properties and quad starts easily.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:13 AM   #72510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
in the Antarctic at minus 40F
You mean -40C also
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