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Old 01-04-2013, 12:38 PM   #72511
eakins
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thanks for the feedback. sounds like you love the hi/lo kit vrs the lo only kit.

so the hi/lo kit is wired back to the battery too in addition to tapping into the stock bulb plug.
while the lo kit just has 2 wires only tapping into the bulb plug. do I have that right?
or do both styles have power back to the battery for the ballast units?

if i add this, should i keep my relay and utilize it or eliminate it out of the electrical loop as it's not need and just extra parts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I don't plan to ride at night, but it happens from time to time.

I'd estimate the 35 w HID to double the light output of the previous +80% H4 fitted, with about double the depth and noticably more spread. Remember its somewhere between a square and cube function. Depends a bit on the reflector design. Twice the light output doesn't equal twice the range. The HID works OK in the DR and the low beam cutoff works good so no issues with blinding oncoming traffic.



The LEDs I have don't offer a lot of depth, the HID does that, but they noticably improve the spread. Tucked in and up, mounted to the barkbusters, they are out of the way and not too vulnerable.

Get a dipping HID, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
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eakins screwed with this post 01-04-2013 at 01:11 PM
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:45 PM   #72512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

What kind of grips did you put on? On / off or many positions? The grips that is.

Thanks,

Heirhead
Oxford tend to be very popular as their designs are robust. The supply cable to grip interface is well built (then compare Hot Grips in this same area) and the control module is proven.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/heate...ord-hot-grips/

some use under-your-own-grip-choice heating element. these are harder to put on and the wire attachment can fail but you get to choose your own grip vrs the pre-molded oxford.

http://lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:00 PM   #72513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixblack1 View Post
I think for most EFI would defeat the purpose of why most bought the simple DR.
i'm not sure about that. seems people start with a base-stock bike like the DR as it's stock form is older tech but very solid and reliable. then plenty add pumper carbs (... & $1000s of other mods) to further increase fueling on the DR. haven't seen people afraid to spend a good bit of $ on DR mods. i'm sure Jeff @ PC will attest to this spending. heavily moded bikes become less than simple.

modern FI components can work dead reliably and be found on "simple" bikes like the XT250 and the TU250. a properly tuned FI on a bike can be a mostly set it and forget thing and provide proper fueling at every elevation. except for the occasional FI body sync (you'd do this with carbs too) 650 Vstroms run day in day out on FI. we've all been driving FI cars forever and not worrying about if the FI will crap out.

that being said I think there are plenty to would love to have all the FI advantages and still have that same reliable base-stock DR bike under them.
MXRob has proven FI can work extremely well on a DR. If there was a 5 to 6 bill true PnP bolt on kit people would buy it.

read the reports. everyone with a TR650 or a WR250R or a CRF250L or a 500EXC is never looking to go backwards to a carb...nor are the MX guys racing on the track. They've fully embraced it because yes it works.

If Suzuki re-released the DR with FI (like Yamaha did with XT250) i'd upgrade.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:04 PM   #72514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I don't know about where you are, but in New York State, I need the high beam to pass the yearly safety inspection. You could just replace the bulb for that day, but why have to do more work than you need.
i live (my address is atleast where i get my mail @ my PO box) in the land of the ultimate bike freedom...western slope colorado.

where we can tag any motorcycle and have no bike inspections what so ever.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:05 PM   #72515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Pretty much my sentiment.

I have a friend with 3 Huskys. TE610 carb'd, a TE310 FI and a 630SM FI. He had to buy expensive software to make the FI's run right. The carb'd bike, he just rides it. I purposely stayed away from FI. Don't understand it and I'm too old to learn.
yes those older Husky's have had issues. newer FI examples are done right.
there are plenty of carb bikes not running right from the factory too.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:16 PM   #72516
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if he can tag a dirt bike, the new FI Yamaha WR450F is one hell of an off-road machine if he wants to stay in the Japan INC. fold.
this tank will be in the US soon plus there are smaller options.
http://justgastanks.com/product_info...oducts_id=3554


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
If you're riding with the KTM guys ... then I must say ... you should be on a KTM too. KTM four strokes of the last four or five years are a WHOLE generation ahead of the DRZ when it comes to competence off road. The Suzuki wins in the maintenance and reliability dept. but if you want to explore off road ... the KTM is far ahead.

If you have the budget ... find a nice used KTM 250 or 450 EXC. Also look around for a nice Husaberg and Husqvarna. Fantastic bikes off road and used prices are quite good. I recently rode a friends Husqvarna TE450 ... cool bike. FAST! And FUN!

I rode my '01 DRZ400E all over the Mojave dessert and Baja. It was good ... but the KTM's and Huskies are JUST BETTER. The Suzuki wins on highway but off road ? No contest.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:17 PM   #72517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
yes those older Husky's have had issues. newer FI examples are done right.
there are plenty of carb bikes not running right from the factory too.
But with a carb, I but a couple $4 jets, not $300 software pkg.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:38 PM   #72518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
thanks for the feedback. sounds like you love the hi/lo kit vrs the lo only kit.

so the hi/lo kit is wired back to the battery too in addition to tapping into the stock bulb plug.
while the lo kit just has 2 wires only tapping into the bulb plug. do I have that right?
or do both styles have power back to the battery for the ballast units?

if i add this, should i keep my relay and utilize it or eliminate it out of the electrical loop as it's not need and just extra parts?
With the single bulb kit no other power is required, all is provided through headlight plug. (only two of the three plugs used)

The Ballast and Ignitor plug together, both derive power from the headlight plug. ... that's it, No relay required.

But if you have one already wired in ... leave it. But to me, just one more thing to worry about and have to check to see if a solder joint cracked or plug broke.

I'm no fan of wires running all over my bike. Been there, done that with a former BMW R100RS I owned that had every accessory known to man on it. ... and guess who had to trouble shoot it many times at night crossing from New York to California? I made it work but with some difficulty. Wires were run from tail light to headlight, fuse blocks, Relays ... they all had issues after 75,000 hard miles. Luckily, for the most part the elec work was done by Pros so color coding and method were correct and not impossible to diagnose.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:52 PM   #72519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
But with a carb, I but a couple $4 jets, not $300 software pkg.
yes I agree that sucks from a cost perspective. most work right out of the box.
the Ecotrons ECU, i believe, has the ability to connect to a computer and adjust the fuel metering like other bikes. a pnp DR kit would of course have all the fueling fined tuned and perfected before it goes out the door. those that have tuned fueling with a computer via simply plugging in a usb (and changing up to new maps or fine-tuning existing ones) say it's a huge revelation compared pulling carbs and trying different jet combos and working on getting it right.

i'm sure people lamented points going away but no one would say nowadays they'd love toss their electronics to go back to points. i'd say FI is the future, but it's not really new by any stretch, and is here to stay.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:05 PM   #72520
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I agree with added electrical parts to bikes. the more you add, the more things can get wonky over time. it's been on my bike for years with no issues and does help providing stronger juice for my regular H4 bulb.
i always knew if i lost lights (both hi & low) i could always plug straight back into the stock harness and get power back that way in a flash after 1st checking the relay fuse to confirm it's not that.

of course with a dual filament H4 bulb it's easy to tell if you have a bulb/filament issue, the other filament still burns so it's just a bulb replacement. what about HID lo only kit light failures?

I think the bulbs are more robust (the DR is a vibey thumper after all), but do you start with bulb replacement and see what happens? does the ballast/ignitor have any lights on it that says it's still ok? at this price point I know were talking about Chinese components so that's why i'm asking.

any know about HID hi/lo bulbs? are they total fail system or can 1 side, hi or lo still work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
With the single bulb kit no other power is required, all is provided through headlight plug. (only two of the three plugs used)

The Ballast and Ignitor plug together, both derive power from the headlight plug. ... that's it, No relay required.

But if you have one already wired in ... leave it. But to me, just one more thing to worry about and have to check to see if a solder joint cracked or plug broke.

I'm no fan of wires running all over my bike. Been there, done that with a former BMW R100RS I owned that had every accessory known to man on it. ... and guess who had to trouble shoot it many times at night crossing from New York to California? I made it work but with some difficulty. Wires were run from tail light to headlight, fuse blocks, Relays ... they all had issues after 75,000 hard miles. Luckily, for the most part the elec work was done by Pros so color coding and method were correct and not impossible to diagnose.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:13 PM   #72521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Anyone know about HID hi/lo bulbs? are they total fail system or can 1 side, hi or lo still work?
Eakins, this might answer your question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
They're not a dual filament bulb like we are used to. They are not a filament bulb at all in fact, but a bulb of gas that gets excited and glows brightly when it does. They dip by having a solenoid move the bulb along a rail so the focal point moves inside the lense of the light. If you look at an H4 bulb closely you'll see the 2 filaments in different places, so the dipping H4 HID attempts to mimick that.

Works fine and there isn't much extra wiring, and what there is is all at the headlight. It plugs into the standard H4 socket instead of the original bulb, and has a feed from the battery.

I got a car setup that is pretty much the same price as single bike ones and got some as yet unsued spares.

I just found this site that may assist:
http://www.yourcustomcar.com/hid-lights.html
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:14 PM   #72522
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Just wondering, has any done a HIR bulb (w/ the notch mod to fit H4) and used it an the DR housing? or something like this http://www.lightbulbs4cars.com/product/HIRH4 with an H4 base but with low only? you of course are the 40w the opposite direction of the 35w HID kit.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:22 PM   #72523
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Eakins, this might answer your question:
thanks.
i did read that and should have taken that as him saying it's a single bulb housing so when it fails it the whole thing fails.

it's easy enough to bring or find an H4 bulb when on the road, so if something fails with HID, you can always pop back in a H4 and plug back in the wiring harness plug and you're back to stock.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:39 PM   #72524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
thanks.
i did read that and should have taken that as him saying it's a single bulb housing so when it fails it the whole thing fails.

it's easy enough to bring or find an H4 bulb when on the road, so if something fails with HID, you can always pop back in a H4 and plug back in the wiring harness plug and you're back to stock.
That's the bottom line. How you wire it up is your choice. I still ahve the extra relays in mine from the stock bulb and no longer needed, but if I revert, its just a bulb swap.

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Old 01-04-2013, 08:59 PM   #72525
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cold running

I frequently ride in cold temps (as long as the roads are dry). Recently I set a new record for myself.

When it's in the 30's and 40's *F, I find it takes the DR (w/ stock BST carb) about 3-4 minutes warming up in the driveway and another 6-8 minutes of easy running on the road to fully warm up and run smoothly.

In the 20's it takes a bit longer and really runs pretty rough at lower rpms for 10-15 minutes. In the low 20's I usually velcro a piece of cardboard in front of the oil cooler screen guard to block some of the direct air flow.

A few days ago, I rode out at midday when the temps were in the 30's and stayed out longer than I expected. When I started home from Denver in the dark it was about 20* and by the time I got to my house in the mountains it was just 3*. Brrrrrrrrr.

I found the DR with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when I pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.

Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40)

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor?

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open?

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler?

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler?

All opinions welcome.

Thanks......................shu
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