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Old 01-05-2013, 01:34 PM   #72526
sunthechip
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Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!

That's a relief!
-The pilot screw is the #12 item labeled "pilot jet" from the carb diagram in the service manual?
-I just changed the oil before I saw your post, so I used 10w40 synthetic.
-There was a milky residue in the oil cap, and after I changed the oil I could see a light milky residue through the oil viewing window- Is that normal too?

-
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:38 PM   #72527
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
shut off the warmers about 10 min before the bike gets shut off. that should make a difference. that way the battery gets all the wattage to fully top it up before it gets shut down .



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_if_muk2ok

I ride year round to but its warmer here .
Thanks for the tip.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:54 PM   #72528
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
That's a relief!
-The pilot screw is the #12 item labeled "pilot jet" from the carb diagram in the service manual?
-I just changed the oil before I saw your post, so I used 10w40 synthetic.
-There was a milky residue in the oil cap, and after I changed the oil I could see a light milky residue through the oil viewing window- Is that normal too?

-
No worries at all about the "milky substance" NORMAL!
I don't have a good pic on the Fuel/Air Screw ... it's located in front of the carb bowl, below and forward. In stock form it is SEALED. But that seal is easily removed. Highly recommend adding an Extended Fuel/Air screw to make easy adjustments. The stock one is very tricky to get to.
Search around here ... there are lots of tutorials on how to do this. Or check DR Index thread (first post on Thumpers forum)
10-40 is fine. Learn the basics and you will be Good to go.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:23 PM   #72529
shu
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
205'b Grifter

However; if I were knutz like you, I'd get a good oil temp gauge and block airflow until I got the temp up, at least 200*.

Oops, back to the question:
Cold oil comment: The recent spat of CSS seals unseating themselves has me wondering. The reports say that it's most likely that they'll pop loose right at start-up, so it may be an oil pressure issue; I run 15w-50 so this could affect me directly. Procycle has recently marketed a CSS seal retainer, cheap insurance. www.Procycle.US

I'll check mine.


Random thought: moisture in the oil (condensation is present most of the time, physics); water turns to steam at 212*, at which time the water is cooked out of the oil. Temps below 212* implies that there is still moisture in the oil/crankase.

The only way to know this accurately, is to have an oil temp gauge. Looking at mine, there is about 5/8" behind the radiator shield. I'd tie the cardboard to the shield, behind it.



For me, the oil temp would decide this. I've seen 275* oil temp on a slow, hot summer ride (up Mt. Herman Rd). 275* is a long way under a full synthetic's 'comfort zone'. Watch NASCAR, they're using a full syn, so I'm ok with 'whatever'.
Ok, since I'm cheap......... how about if we use your oil temp gauge? Maybe next time you go out you could note the air temp. and tell us how long it takes your oil to get to 200*? That would give me a ball park idea about my warm up time and blocking the oil cooler off as well.

Thanks........shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:28 PM   #72530
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Another note, once inna while I forget to turn off my choke. I'll end up 20 miles from the house and wonder why the bike runs like crap at a light or stop sign. Hmmmmmm About that time the light will go on; I'll look down and sure enough I left the choke on. My point is, the bike will run fine with the choke on, it's only noticeable at idle; when the bike is giving you cold temperature fits, put the choke on.
Is this the emperor's choke?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 06:09 PM
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:01 PM   #72531
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I once literally got hypothermia on a long night ride in sub-freezing weather.
Is it possible to figuratively get hypothermia on a long night ride in sub-freezing weather?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:06 PM   #72532
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
The pilot screws on BST40 carbs are fuel screws.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:26 PM   #72533
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Is this the emperors choke?

Regards,

Derek

Derek---> <---ER

Cold start enrichment circuit

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Ok, since I'm cheap......... how about if we use your oil temp gauge? Maybe next time you go out you could note the air temp. and tell us how long it takes your oil to get to 200*? That would give me a ball park idea about my warm up time and blocking the oil cooler off as well.

Thanks........shu
I'm getting ready for a trip to San Diego, but if I get a chance I'll even zip tie some cardboard and let ya know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No worries at all about the "milky substance" NORMAL!
I don't have a good pic on the Fuel/Air Screw ... it's located in front of the carb bowl, below and forward. In stock form it is SEALED. But that seal is easily removed. Highly recommend adding an Extended Fuel/Air screw to make easy adjustments. The stock one is very tricky to get to.
Search around here ... there are lots of tutorials on how to do this. Or check DR Index thread (first post on Thumpers forum)
10-40 is fine. Learn the basics and you will be Good to go.
Jessepitt's photo essay, starting on the 7th photo:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71

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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:53 PM   #72534
shu
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm getting ready for a trip to San Diego, but if I get a chance I'll even zip tie some cardboard and let ya know.
Awesome.



.........shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:30 PM   #72535
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm getting ready for a trip to San Diego, ..........
Shoot me a PM if you need anything while you're here. I'll even buy the first round.

Yeah Derek, you're killin' me. Funny stuff. My stepdaughter is on a "..he always does that sometimes" kick which is driving me nuts. "Do you mean he's consistently intermittent?"
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:07 PM   #72536
ER70S-2
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Thanks TH, I'll keep that in mind (Julian pie comes to mind, at least the address. ).

Yep, Derek is on a roll tonight.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:29 PM   #72537
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
My stepdaughter is on a "..he always does that sometimes" kick which is driving me nuts. "Do you mean he's consistently intermittent?"
I hope you constantly rib her about that now and then.

D.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:59 PM   #72538
rockydrxrvr
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Oregon Mountains, Great Riding,Not too cold.
Oddometer: 149
Oxford heated grip, safe keyed point to connect?

Anybody find the safest keyed place I can connect OXFORD HEATED GRIPS to?
I seem to have a problem, as hooked directly to the battery, the green L.E.D. stays on,---- Causes a slow drain on it.

It has a low voltage auto-shutoff, that is starting to make me regret purchasing these. Is it time to go behind the Headlight and find my keyed power there?

Link to this covered in the thousands of DR pages here?
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:15 AM   #72539
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 440
Hello,

Thanks for the replies on the heated grips. Will be getting Symtec on Mon from HappyTrail as
they throw in a pair of grips. What a tightass!. What could go wrong on install? Blue to blue, hook up to brown in headlight,
AAAARGH!!
6 million pages on it and I will be lost. Hardly can screw in a light bulb.

Stay warm,

Heirhead
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:22 AM   #72540
Magnum Noel
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Location: Wellington NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockydrxrvr View Post
Anybody find the safest keyed place I can connect OXFORD HEATED GRIPS to?
I seem to have a problem, as hooked directly to the battery, the green L.E.D. stays on,---- Causes a slow drain on it.

It has a low voltage auto-shutoff, that is starting to make me regret purchasing these. Is it time to go behind the Headlight and find my keyed power there?

Link to this covered in the thousands of DR pages here?
Sounds like the same problem I had. Got a replacement set under warranty from the vendor. Kept the grips but the rest of the gear was completely different. Havn't had a problem since.
ps. Mine are hooked up directly to the battery as they recomend.
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