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Old 01-05-2013, 10:35 AM   #72526
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I found the DR with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when I pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.
What THROTTLE POSITION was the issue at? You may want to enrich your jetting a little. Adjust your idle-mix screw, and tinker with your enrichener (choke). In colder weather, the air is more dense, so the bike runs lean if you don't adjust the fuel side of things to richen it up. My carbed bikes start fine in cooler weather, but they stay on the "choke" longer.

Quote:
Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40) Shouldn't be bad at all. That's not really that cold for an engine.

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor? No. It's typical for a motor with incorrect air:fuel ratio and/or weak spark.

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open? Can you do that easily without any chance of damaging fins on the cooler? Bypass the cooler completely, if you like.

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler? The bike will run fine on a hot summer day with the oil-cooler bypassed. I wouldn't worry about it.

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler? You would be courting heatstroke, or something else would be wrong with the bike. The oil-cooler on these bikes is a protective redundancy for when slogging along on slow trails or in slow traffic, in the dead heat of the summer. In most other conditions, the bike runs fine without it, and it may even run fine for quite some time in the above-mentioned conditions. It has enough air-cooling capacity to run as a strictly air-cooled bike. It isn't like a liquid-cooled vehicle that NEEDS a radiator to not overheat.

Kommando screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 10:42 AM
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:46 AM   #72527
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Hi guys,

I need help. My DR has been slow to start up. It usually starts on the 1st or 2nd crank, and now it takes 10+ cranks, and once the engine gets going it starts from a whimper and takes some time before it starts to rev at the normal ilde speed.


This sounds normal to me for 30* cold start ups. My bike lives outside under a cover. I usually put it into 4th gear and push it 3 or 4 engine revolutions to loosen the clutch plates before I crank it. Then gas on, choke on, put it back in neutral and crank it 3-4 seconds with no throttle. I don't expect it start up at that point. Shut offf the key, wait 5-10 seconds, and crank it again usually same results. Shut off the key, wait again, and this time I'm ready on the throttle with just a little twisting to keep it going when it catches. It's not too tricky, really.

At first the bike will idle slowly but will keep running. After a minute or two the idle will come up.



-It seems as though there is a lot of white vapor coming out of the exhaust on startup, and it dissapears after I have been riding for a while ( this was yesterday, so it might have been the cold and high humidity).

-It may just be my imagination, but the exhaust has a weird smell to it now- almost like burnt rubber/plastic.

I get the vapor as well. Not so much when it first starts but after a couple of minutes of running on the 'choke'. The smell I get is more unburned gasoline from the rich mixture when it's on the enrichener. It goes away when I start riding.

-Sometimes I run the hand warmers and the high beam (brighter bulb) at the same time.

Shouldn't be a problem. I run High beam and an electric vest all the time when it's cold. I do keep the bike on a Battery Tender Jr. when I park it.





................shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:50 AM   #72528
doug s.
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oil cooler t-stats

thermostats:
http://shop.perma-cool.com/Oil-Thermostats_c10.htm

https://www.denniskirk.com/496595.sk...utm_medium=cse

http://translate.google.com/translat...zubehoer-2.php

http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

manual bypass:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ass-Valve.aspx

doug s.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:49 AM   #72529
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
You mean -40C also
You are correct! Not many in the USA know that F and C cross over at minus 40 ... and are the SAME! I learned about this when down there ... as part of our duties was to monitor and maintain several weather boxes at the station.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:00 PM   #72530
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
As part of our duties was to monitor and maintain several weather boxes at the station.
That wouldn't take long.
"Still fcukin cold?"
"Yep"

"Beer?"
"Yep"
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:04 PM   #72531
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Hi guys,

I need help. My DR has been slow to start up. It usually starts on the 1st or 2nd crank, and now it takes 10+ cranks, and once the engine gets going it starts from a whimper and takes some time before it starts to rev at the normal ilde speed.

Here are the circumstances:

-Recently I changed to a Shorai Lithium battery.
-I swapped the old standard spark plugs for a set of Iridium CR10EIX plugs.
-I store the bike outside.
-It has been cold lately; yesterday the high was 43F and the low was 34F, and there was light rain.
-I have been using Startron Enzyme fuel treatment.
-The engine starts almost instantly after the bike has been warmed up.
-It seems as though there is a lot of white vapor coming out of the exhaust on startup, and it dissapears after I have been riding for a while ( this was yesterday, so it might have been the cold and high humidity).
-It may just be my imagination, but the exhaust has a weird smell to it now- almost like burnt rubber/plastic.
-I adjusted the valves not too long ago (2-3k mi. back), and I did it by the book.
-Sometimes I run the hand warmers and the high beam (brighter bulb) at the same time.

Thats about all I can think of.

Also:
-The time for an oil change and air filter clean is due soon. (Mostly street riding)
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:14 PM   #72532
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
That wouldn't take long.
"Still fcukin cold?"
"Yep"

"Beer?"
"Yep"
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:24 PM   #72533
sunthechip
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Im not sure about the jetting. I don't know how to tell. The choke is working properly, and no, I haven't been warming up the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
What jetting do you have? Is your choke (enrichener) working properly? Do you let your battery warm up?
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:34 PM   #72534
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!

That's a relief!
-The pilot screw is the #12 item labeled "pilot jet" from the carb diagram in the service manual?
-I just changed the oil before I saw your post, so I used 10w40 synthetic.
-There was a milky residue in the oil cap, and after I changed the oil I could see a light milky residue through the oil viewing window- Is that normal too?

-
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:38 PM   #72535
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
shut off the warmers about 10 min before the bike gets shut off. that should make a difference. that way the battery gets all the wattage to fully top it up before it gets shut down .



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_if_muk2ok

I ride year round to but its warmer here .
Thanks for the tip.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:54 PM   #72536
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
That's a relief!
-The pilot screw is the #12 item labeled "pilot jet" from the carb diagram in the service manual?
-I just changed the oil before I saw your post, so I used 10w40 synthetic.
-There was a milky residue in the oil cap, and after I changed the oil I could see a light milky residue through the oil viewing window- Is that normal too?

-
No worries at all about the "milky substance" NORMAL!
I don't have a good pic on the Fuel/Air Screw ... it's located in front of the carb bowl, below and forward. In stock form it is SEALED. But that seal is easily removed. Highly recommend adding an Extended Fuel/Air screw to make easy adjustments. The stock one is very tricky to get to.
Search around here ... there are lots of tutorials on how to do this. Or check DR Index thread (first post on Thumpers forum)
10-40 is fine. Learn the basics and you will be Good to go.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:23 PM   #72537
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
205'b Grifter

However; if I were knutz like you, I'd get a good oil temp gauge and block airflow until I got the temp up, at least 200*.

Oops, back to the question:
Cold oil comment: The recent spat of CSS seals unseating themselves has me wondering. The reports say that it's most likely that they'll pop loose right at start-up, so it may be an oil pressure issue; I run 15w-50 so this could affect me directly. Procycle has recently marketed a CSS seal retainer, cheap insurance. www.Procycle.US

I'll check mine.


Random thought: moisture in the oil (condensation is present most of the time, physics); water turns to steam at 212*, at which time the water is cooked out of the oil. Temps below 212* implies that there is still moisture in the oil/crankase.

The only way to know this accurately, is to have an oil temp gauge. Looking at mine, there is about 5/8" behind the radiator shield. I'd tie the cardboard to the shield, behind it.



For me, the oil temp would decide this. I've seen 275* oil temp on a slow, hot summer ride (up Mt. Herman Rd). 275* is a long way under a full synthetic's 'comfort zone'. Watch NASCAR, they're using a full syn, so I'm ok with 'whatever'.
Ok, since I'm cheap......... how about if we use your oil temp gauge? Maybe next time you go out you could note the air temp. and tell us how long it takes your oil to get to 200*? That would give me a ball park idea about my warm up time and blocking the oil cooler off as well.

Thanks........shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:28 PM   #72538
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Another note, once inna while I forget to turn off my choke. I'll end up 20 miles from the house and wonder why the bike runs like crap at a light or stop sign. Hmmmmmm About that time the light will go on; I'll look down and sure enough I left the choke on. My point is, the bike will run fine with the choke on, it's only noticeable at idle; when the bike is giving you cold temperature fits, put the choke on.
Is this the emperor's choke?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 05:09 PM
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:01 PM   #72539
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I once literally got hypothermia on a long night ride in sub-freezing weather.
Is it possible to figuratively get hypothermia on a long night ride in sub-freezing weather?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:06 PM   #72540
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
The pilot screws on BST40 carbs are fuel screws.

Regards,

Derek
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