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Old 01-06-2013, 12:28 AM   #72541
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Thanks TH, I'll keep that in mind (Julian pie comes to mind, at least the address. ).

Yep, Derek is on a roll tonight.
Hello,

If you are going down the 5, I'll buy you a pint at the Harbor in Dana Point, Doheny Beach.
Julian Pie Co is in Santa Isabel but its best if you go 7 more miles up the mountain and have Chili and pie in Julian.
Chilly but usually sunny, great riding through town then south on 79, left on sunshine hwy, over pass and on to SD.
Beautiful ride, no traffic. Don't tell anyone.

Heirhead
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:03 AM   #72542
greer
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,661
Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Thanks for the replies on the heated grips. Will be getting Symtec on Mon from HappyTrail as
they throw in a pair of grips. What a tightass!. What could go wrong on install? Blue to blue, hook up to brown in headlight,
AAAARGH!!
6 million pages on it and I will be lost. Hardly can screw in a light bulb.

Stay warm,

Heirhead
You will love them and wonder why the heck you waited so long. Be sure to insulate the left bar. I like silicone tape, but folks use electrical tape, heat shrink, cork, ..... you'll get a ton of info when you Google.

Sarah
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:47 AM   #72543
planemanx15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockydrxrvr View Post
Anybody find the safest keyed place I can connect OXFORD HEATED GRIPS to?
I seem to have a problem, as hooked directly to the battery, the green L.E.D. stays on,---- Causes a slow drain on it.

It has a low voltage auto-shutoff, that is starting to make me regret purchasing these. Is it time to go behind the Headlight and find my keyed power there?

Link to this covered in the thousands of DR pages here?

Behind the head light cowl there should be an unused port you can tap into. If not behind the engine is one, right below the fuel tank. Just be be sure they are good, conenct your volt meter to it with the key on and read 12v, key off should be 0. If you have a vapor dash board, the stock speedo light makes a good keyed 12v point.

I use the speedo light as my 12v plug, and the unused port behind the cowl for my grips. Never had an issue.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:15 AM   #72544
justcountry04
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Location: Gilchrist County Floriduh (AKA farm country)
Oddometer: 145
extended fuel screw

Hey Ive been meaning to see if anyone has a problem with the extended fuel screw from pro cycle? I bought a jet kit with the extended screw included. I noticed right away that the shape was a little different. but installed anyway. After test and tune time, my first ride out with a friend of mine, I stopped after a few miles and the bike died. I started it back up and died again. fired it up and it would rev and stuff but would not idle...... my friend noticed that the extended screw had fallen out and luckily was laying perilously between the starter and the head. I rode back home and checked everything out and ended up puttin the oem screw back in as it fit more securely. the depth of the oring seating area was too deep on the aftermarket one and would not hold the screw in with tension because of this. anybody else have this issue???
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:49 AM   #72545
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
Hey Ive been meaning to see if anyone has a problem with the extended fuel screw from pro cycle? I bought a jet kit with the extended screw included. I noticed right away that the shape was a little different. but installed anyway. After test and tune time, my first ride out with a friend of mine, I stopped after a few miles and the bike died. I started it back up and died again. fired it up and it would rev and stuff but would not idle...... my friend noticed that the extended screw had fallen out and luckily was laying perilously between the starter and the head. I rode back home and checked everything out and ended up puttin the oem screw back in as it fit more securely. the depth of the oring seating area was too deep on the aftermarket one and would not hold the screw in with tension because of this. anybody else have this issue???
I can't recall, but isn't there also a spring in there to maintain tension?

I have one (the one that came with the pro-cycle kit for the carb) and ... well... I haven't honestly checked to see if it was backing out, but the bike runs too well for me to even attempt to turn it.

Edit: just found a diagram

part number 32?

Any chance you lost yours on the replacement change-out? If you changed it while the carb was still mounted on the bike, the chances are good it sprung out or fell out maybe after you pulled the screw out - you may not have seen it.


Mambo Dave screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 09:55 AM
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:56 AM   #72546
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I hope you constantly rib her about that now and then.

D.


Sounds like a Yogi Berra comment.

"Nobody eats at that restaurant, it's too crowded"
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:26 AM   #72547
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
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I've used the trick described in #6 many times on motorcycles and also on on 1970-80's snowmobiles. Works like a charm in sub-freezing temps. #2 is also a good tip for engines that don't like starting in cold temps....



Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:35 AM   #72548
justcountry04
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Location: Gilchrist County Floriduh (AKA farm country)
Oddometer: 145
fuel screw

yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:51 AM   #72549
rockydrxrvr
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Oregon Mountains, Great Riding,Not too cold.
Oddometer: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Behind the head light cowl there should be an unused port you can tap into. If not behind the engine is one, right below the fuel tank. Just be be sure they are good, conenct your volt meter to it with the key on and read 12v, key off should be 0. If you have a vapor dash board, the stock speedo light makes a good keyed 12v point.

I use the speedo light as my 12v plug, and the unused port behind the cowl for my grips. Never had an issue.

Thank you very much for the info, and will rewire accordingly. ---but a bit disappointed the Oxford Controller would not totally shut off the green L.E.D. light.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #72550
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 5,109
Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #72551
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
I've used the trick described in #6 many times on motorcycles and also on on 1970-80's snowmobiles. Works like a charm in sub-freezing temps. #2 is also a good tip for engines that don't like starting in cold temps....
When I used to ice-race, the common thing to do was park the bike so that the exhaust from your truck blew on your engine.

I had a '75 Yamaha 400mxb that for some reason couldn't be kicked over if the temp was below freezing. I don't mean it wouldn't start, you couldn't move the kickstarter with your foot. Once you got it started it was good all day. What I used to do, (NOT recommended), was heat the bottom of the gear cases with Sterno.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:06 AM   #72552
justcountry04
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Location: Gilchrist County Floriduh (AKA farm country)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:34 AM   #72553
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Mine, but I don't remember the vendor.



Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Beautiful ride, no traffic. Don't tell anyone.

Heirhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 11:44 AM
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:21 PM   #72554
macrae85
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: New Zealand,Scotland,Arizona USA.
Oddometer: 384
Copart USA.

For auction on the 30th January on Copart.com a well loaded DR650......goes to prove 1 thing,that casing protectors dont always save casings!


Lot # 27227712.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:29 PM   #72555
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
I'm pretty darned sure that's the way mine was from ProCycle... just a tad longer. Since I'm guessing it fits up into a hole, 2 or 3mm, with spring tension, shouldn't be the factor to allow it to fall out... I'd think it would have been tensioned even if you had hit something... but you shoudln't be hitting something up in there with the tapered tip of it.

The one ER70 pictured wasn't like mine.. mine was brass, I'd guess, but I can't recall anything other than the tapered cone seeming longer.

I'm at a loss.
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