the DR650 thread

[planemanx15]

Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by shu

5. When you're out getting your tire lube and bead buddy also pick up another ten dollar item: a tire valve 'snake' (I forget the real name). It.s a little piece of wire attached to a threaded bit that will thread into the valve of the tube. This little item will save you bruised and battered hands and a lot of cussing getting the valve stem in through the hole in the wheel.

It takes some practice. You'll get it and learn your own tricks on the way.

...............shu

Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

[neo1piv014]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.

[redfishguide]

For me the easiest way is to put the tube in the tire with a little bit of air then position the tire with the valve stem near the rim hole. Pull the stem away from the tire and push through the hole get a couple of turns with the nut then continue to mount the tire. Actually quite easy when you have done it a time or two. No more buised fingers and no need for gimicky accessories.

Jack

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.

[DockingPilot]

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.

If your just changing out tires and not the tube, there is no need to remove that stem from the rim. Your creating more work for yourself. Simply remove the tube with the stem still installed after you remove the top bead from the rim, and tuck it under the brake disc. The go ahead and remove the rest of the tire.
Keep the tube tucked under the disc and take your new tire and push it over the tube in the stem area and spoon the tire back on.
No stem removal needed.

[JagLite]

OK, for a break from our regularly scheduled tire changing discussion, it is time for a mental exercise.

I am using a pod filter and don't want to run the breather hose around to the far end and drill a hole for it.

My thought is of running the stock hose location up through the frame for high point and then running the hose down near the swingarm pivot and adding either a small catch tank or another small filter (like the carb breather) on the end of it. I don't know how much oil actually makes it out of the crank case, up to the top fitting, and then down the second hose.

Your recommendations?

[TrophyHunter]

To keep the CLEAN look of that thing, I'd just run it up - L fitting - catch area dropped down on a T fitting after a short hose - other side of T - breather filter.

Nicely done,

[JTB488]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?

I have the Procycle HID kit, ran it all summer with ZERO problems. And yes it is plug and play, just need to run a wire to the battery and to a ground.

[doug s.]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?

i can't speak for the procycle kit, but my ddm tuning kit was pretty-much plug-n-play, and it hasn't failed in a year. have you contacted them about it? from the research i did before buying, the ddm kits are supposed to be wery reliable... if you have had two failures in 3 months, maybe you have some other wiring harness issue?

doug s.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by TrophyHunter

To keep the CLEAN look of that thing, I'd just run it up - L fitting - catch area dropped down on a T fitting after a short hose - other side of T - breather filter.

Nicely done,

Thanks, I do want to keep it as clean and uncluttered as possible.

I am on final assembly and paint now.
Waiting for my new oil cooler to be shipped, the one that I got the "shipping notice and tracking number" for on Friday, that tracking shows hasn't been even delivered to UPS yet....

I guess that is the new business model for customer service, Charge you and print out the tracking label, and then ship it... later.

I only have the oil cooler and oil lines to do on the mechanical part, and paint the seat and tank, and the DR Street Tracker will be finished.

Then I will do a build thread full of pictures for everyone's amusement.

It has been a fun build and a great learning experience.
Now I get to learn how to paint.
I bought an HVLP gun, how hard can it be?
That's what I thought when I decided to make my own fiberglass gas tank...

[Feelers]

Originally Posted by JagLite

Thanks, I do want to keep it as clean and uncluttered as possible.

I am on final assembly and paint now.
Waiting for my new oil cooler to be shipped, the one that I got the "shipping notice and tracking number" for on Friday, that tracking shows hasn't been even delivered to UPS yet....

I guess that is the new business model for customer service, Charge you and print out the tracking label, and then ship it... later.

I only have the oil cooler and oil lines to do on the mechanical part, and paint the seat and tank, and the DR Street Tracker will be finished.

Then I will do a build thread full of pictures for everyone's amusement.

It has been a fun build and a great learning experience.
Now I get to learn how to paint.
I bought an HVLP gun, how hard can it be?
That's what I thought when I decided to make my own fiberglass gas tank...

Not to be the redneck around here, but I have done excellent painting work with just spray paint.
I used to HATE HATE HATE painting because I am a perfectionist so I went to all the trouble for a great prepping job and stuff, but then the paint would get scratched or marred or stained with gas pretty quickly. So much for all my hard work. However, I found some aerosol 2-part "2k" clear coat that is awesome! Tough, gas resistant, etc! It's a bit pricey, but I will use it for every bike related paint job I ever do in the future! Oh, it's made by Spraymax!

[planemanx15]

Originally Posted by doug s.

i can't speak for the procycle kit, but my ddm tuning kit was pretty-much plug-n-play, and it hasn't failed in a year. have you contacted them about it? from the research i did before buying, the ddm kits are supposed to be wery reliable... if you have had two failures in 3 months, maybe you have some other wiring harness issue?

doug s.

Thats what I'm starting to think, but ive never had a problem with a regular bulb. I can't return the DDM kit because I ended up haking a lot of it away to make it fit and to get the wires back to the battery... I basicaly made a mess, but everything seemed to be working. I want to try the procycle kit, but dont want to waste $80 if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere in my bike.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

Thats what I'm starting to think, but ive never had a problem with a regular bulb. I can't return the DDM kit because I ended up haking a lot of it away to make it fit and to get the wires back to the battery... I basicaly made a mess, but everything seemed to be working. I want to try the procycle kit, but dont want to waste $80 if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere in my bike.

I've responded to you before on this (I think?) so, sorry if 205.
My DDM single bulb kits are now both over two years old. (two different bikes) The single bulb set up require NO running of wires. Its truly Plug & Play. You simply plug into H-4 plug and plug ballast and igniter together ... so easy. Its quite bright ... so I found no need for HI and LO beam. My high beam is OFF which is handy for starting or when running a lot of accessories in daylight.

My other bike has two headlights ... so the low beam side is the HID, hi beam side is stock. I intend to replace it with another DDM Tuning HID in near future.

The Single bulb units I think are up to $25 ... not a bad deal. I think a spare HID bulb is $12. Good luck.

[gippyphil]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

There are rubber cones (parts 12 &13 in the attached diagram)that are probably deformed. They will go back to their original shape as soon as you unclamp the bars.

You were spot on Rusty - as soon as I top the top clamp off, it popped right back



And the bars were definitely bent!



And the new ones were a mild pain in ass to put on (not a lot of slack in all those cables) and the knurling on the left made it hard work to get the mirror/clutch bracket back on, but I got there in the end (still have to tighten up all the controls).



I just have to put the new grips on (Renthal dual compound, half waffle), but I have a few n00b questions:

1. Is there any special trick with applying the grip glue, or do you just smear it on and push the grips home?
2. Is there any special trick with putting the Bark Busters back on the left grip, or do you just cut a hole in the end of the grip?
3. Based on the pic below, does the 'waffle' on the right hand side point to the front of the bike, or the back, or somewhere else?

Thanks for all your assistance - this is a great community!

[BergDonk]

A good idea is to get a different perch for the clutch, a 2 piece one that clamps over the bar and can be replaced any time without taking off the grip and switch block and elimates any bar knurling issues too.

I have had most success fitting grips by using brake cleaner as a lube to slide the new grips on. I then use maybe 7 wraps of stainless tie wire to secure them. The brake cleaner sort of dissolves a bit of the grip and creates a light bond to the bar.

The waffle goes where you finger tips are. The grips normally have an up arrow or similar as a guide.



You can see the tie wire in the pic above.

I use a Dremel to remove the end of the grip to mount the Barkbusters. A stone or cutter works fine. A wad punch will also work, but the end has to come out.