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Old 01-07-2013, 08:38 PM   #72586
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808650se View Post
Second time i changed oil and drained fuel from airbox
Bike is second hand was sitting for awhile
had old fuel cleaned out ran great for a month before
Fuel mixing with oil and stalling
Overflowing problems are due to dirt between the float needle & seat, a hardened, cracked, deformed, shrunken or otherwise damaged needle seat o-ring, a worn float needle tip (look for the tell-tale witness-line under magnification), or in rarer cases a leaky float, damaged seat, stuck float needle plunger, or sacked out float needle plunger spring.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:42 PM   #72587
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808650se View Post
Will a carb rebuild help overflow of fuel into engine
A carb rebuild will include replacing the float needle and needle seat o-ring, so it will in most cases solve the problem.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:43 PM   #72588
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Went out and eyeballed the sight glass in the sunshine a few minutes ago. No visible bubble in sight glass. SOOOOooooo looks like some fuel may have made it in there. Took spark plugs out and turned motor over and gas shot out of spark plug holes. Off to get some oil as soon as I figure out what oil to get so I can change it and will take petcock off of extra tank that came with bike and see if it works.
You need to order this
Float Assembly - Stock BST

DR650 '90-Current



$69.95
A genuine factory replacement float assembly for your stock Mikuni BST40 carburetor.
FCR-MX Carb Conversion Parts

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Old 01-07-2013, 09:06 PM   #72589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808650se View Post
Will a carb rebuild help overflow of fuel into engine
Just so long as you put it back together right. After talking to a couple different people, I still don't exactly understand how to set the float height.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:21 PM   #72590
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
You need to order this
Float Assembly - Stock BST

DR650 '90-Current



$69.95
A genuine factory replacement float assembly for your stock Mikuni BST40 carburetor.
Generally not needed, as the float needle and needle seat o-ring are usually the culprits and can be replaced separately.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:24 PM   #72591
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Just so long as you put it back together right. After talking to a couple different people, I still don't exactly understand how to set the float height.
A misadjusted float height will not by itself cause the carb to overflow. See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19920266&postcount=7068.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:26 PM   #72592
808650se
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Thanks d

Thanks d
helpful info
thinkin that i need to replace all gaskets since its been sittin
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:50 PM   #72593
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808650se View Post
Thanks d
helpful info
thinkin that i need to replace all gaskets since its been sittin
See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:35 PM   #72594
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!
I have noticed that with my TM40, just like the BST, I do have to mess with the idle speed adjustment a bit. Ill start on full choke, runs fine. Starts to stumble, half choke. Starts to stumble, off choke. Then, the RPMs want to drop to 1-1.2k which is too slow, so I turn the idle speed up to about 1500. Once the engine gets thoroughly warmed up, it ends up idling at 1.8k rpms, so I back it off down to 1.5k again. The BST and my new TM40 do this, but I havent had a chance to properly set the idle yet (mixture screws). When is it best for me to try and get the mix set absolutely right? Its further complicated by the fact its now in the 50s here, so im pretty sure the DR never really warms up. I have been changing the oil very frequently as its been in a bunch of dirt (and because im in a humid climate so I want to be very careful about condensation building up in the oil), but I think I need to get some kind of oil cooler block setup for the cold temperatures.

Ive read mention of using a cut down welders glove, and ive of course considered metal plates to cover parts of the fins to allow the DR to warm up. What do you think about any/all of the above? It seems to run perfectly jetted straight from ProCycle, while of course I will need to tweak the idle speed- I dont get lean surge, stumble on sudden WOT, or anything- so, im sure my idle woes are all due part to adjustment and part to temperature..
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:41 AM   #72595
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
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I have a pair of DR650 wheels for sale here...
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854035
Please PM if interested, or any ideas what the going $ rate is for this sort of thing, thanks.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:50 AM   #72596
doug s.
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oil cooler t-stats

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I have noticed that with my TM40, just like the BST, I do have to mess with the idle speed adjustment a bit. Ill start on full choke, runs fine. Starts to stumble, half choke. Starts to stumble, off choke. Then, the RPMs want to drop to 1-1.2k which is too slow, so I turn the idle speed up to about 1500. Once the engine gets thoroughly warmed up, it ends up idling at 1.8k rpms, so I back it off down to 1.5k again. The BST and my new TM40 do this, but I havent had a chance to properly set the idle yet (mixture screws). When is it best for me to try and get the mix set absolutely right? Its further complicated by the fact its now in the 50s here, so im pretty sure the DR never really warms up. I have been changing the oil very frequently as its been in a bunch of dirt (and because im in a humid climate so I want to be very careful about condensation building up in the oil), but I think I need to get some kind of oil cooler block setup for the cold temperatures.

Ive read mention of using a cut down welders glove, and ive of course considered metal plates to cover parts of the fins to allow the DR to warm up. What do you think about any/all of the above? It seems to run perfectly jetted straight from ProCycle, while of course I will need to tweak the idle speed- I dont get lean surge, stumble on sudden WOT, or anything- so, im sure my idle woes are all due part to adjustment and part to temperature..
from a prewious post:

oil cooler t-stats
thermostats:
http://shop.perma-cool.com/Oil-Thermostats_c10.htm

https://www.denniskirk.com/496595.sk...utm_medium=cse

http://translate.google.com/translat...zubehoer-2.php

http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

manual bypass:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ass-Valve.aspx

doug s.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:55 AM   #72597
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Generally not needed, as the float needle and needle seat o-ring are usually the culprits and can be replaced separately.

Regards,

Derek
Yep, I have had to replace the o-rings twice in 7 years of owning my DR. I think it has something to do with the damn ethanol.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:29 AM   #72598
Mambo Dave
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So I'm now running my Shinko 705's in the low 30's psi range for local commuting (up from high 20's for rear, 30 for front). I'm liking it more, but ... I'm sure there's gonna be a down side. I think, in part, it's to make up for the soft suspension that I have neighther the time or money to address right now.

Maybe I should just buy street tires for it the next time I buy tires... there just aren't many more places to explore down here without loads of trespassing. Still, love the bike and the simplicity of it.

Has anyone had a tire bead pop over the rim or bulges at running tires on the DR650 in the low 30's for street use?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:47 AM   #72599
gofast1320
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Barko, motolab, rusty rocket, and others. The bike sat for a while and the PO had the carb rebuilt by the local Suzuki shop that is know for high quality work. I think I started the problem by filling the tank and inadvertantly leaving petcock selector on PRI which allowed fuel to run into carb. I'll know more in a bit. The weather has warmed up and I've set aside the morning to change the oil and get it running. I have another petcock I can put on there so I'll do that while I'm at it.
Thanks for tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yep, I have had to replace the o-rings twice in 7 years of owning my DR. I think it has something to do with the damn ethanol.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:01 AM   #72600
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Barko, motolab, rusty rocket, and others. The bike sat for a while and the PO had the carb rebuilt by the local Suzuki shop that is know for high quality work. I think I started the problem by filling the tank and inadvertantly leaving petcock selector on PRI which allowed fuel to run into carb. I'll know more in a bit. The weather has warmed up and I've set aside the morning to change the oil and get it running. I have another petcock I can put on there so I'll do that while I'm at it.
Thanks for tips
The leaking tap or you leaving it in the Prime position is only one of at least two faults. For the gas to leak into your engine, the float mechanism or some part of it has to be malfunctioning too.
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