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Old 01-07-2013, 08:50 PM   #72601
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808650se View Post
Thanks d
helpful info
thinkin that i need to replace all gaskets since its been sittin
See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:35 PM   #72602
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!
I have noticed that with my TM40, just like the BST, I do have to mess with the idle speed adjustment a bit. Ill start on full choke, runs fine. Starts to stumble, half choke. Starts to stumble, off choke. Then, the RPMs want to drop to 1-1.2k which is too slow, so I turn the idle speed up to about 1500. Once the engine gets thoroughly warmed up, it ends up idling at 1.8k rpms, so I back it off down to 1.5k again. The BST and my new TM40 do this, but I havent had a chance to properly set the idle yet (mixture screws). When is it best for me to try and get the mix set absolutely right? Its further complicated by the fact its now in the 50s here, so im pretty sure the DR never really warms up. I have been changing the oil very frequently as its been in a bunch of dirt (and because im in a humid climate so I want to be very careful about condensation building up in the oil), but I think I need to get some kind of oil cooler block setup for the cold temperatures.

Ive read mention of using a cut down welders glove, and ive of course considered metal plates to cover parts of the fins to allow the DR to warm up. What do you think about any/all of the above? It seems to run perfectly jetted straight from ProCycle, while of course I will need to tweak the idle speed- I dont get lean surge, stumble on sudden WOT, or anything- so, im sure my idle woes are all due part to adjustment and part to temperature..
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:41 AM   #72603
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
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I have a pair of DR650 wheels for sale here...
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854035
Please PM if interested, or any ideas what the going $ rate is for this sort of thing, thanks.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:50 AM   #72604
doug s.
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oil cooler t-stats

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I have noticed that with my TM40, just like the BST, I do have to mess with the idle speed adjustment a bit. Ill start on full choke, runs fine. Starts to stumble, half choke. Starts to stumble, off choke. Then, the RPMs want to drop to 1-1.2k which is too slow, so I turn the idle speed up to about 1500. Once the engine gets thoroughly warmed up, it ends up idling at 1.8k rpms, so I back it off down to 1.5k again. The BST and my new TM40 do this, but I havent had a chance to properly set the idle yet (mixture screws). When is it best for me to try and get the mix set absolutely right? Its further complicated by the fact its now in the 50s here, so im pretty sure the DR never really warms up. I have been changing the oil very frequently as its been in a bunch of dirt (and because im in a humid climate so I want to be very careful about condensation building up in the oil), but I think I need to get some kind of oil cooler block setup for the cold temperatures.

Ive read mention of using a cut down welders glove, and ive of course considered metal plates to cover parts of the fins to allow the DR to warm up. What do you think about any/all of the above? It seems to run perfectly jetted straight from ProCycle, while of course I will need to tweak the idle speed- I dont get lean surge, stumble on sudden WOT, or anything- so, im sure my idle woes are all due part to adjustment and part to temperature..
from a prewious post:

oil cooler t-stats
thermostats:
http://shop.perma-cool.com/Oil-Thermostats_c10.htm

https://www.denniskirk.com/496595.sk...utm_medium=cse

http://translate.google.com/translat...zubehoer-2.php

http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

manual bypass:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ass-Valve.aspx

doug s.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:55 AM   #72605
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Generally not needed, as the float needle and needle seat o-ring are usually the culprits and can be replaced separately.

Regards,

Derek
Yep, I have had to replace the o-rings twice in 7 years of owning my DR. I think it has something to do with the damn ethanol.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:29 AM   #72606
Mambo Dave
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So I'm now running my Shinko 705's in the low 30's psi range for local commuting (up from high 20's for rear, 30 for front). I'm liking it more, but ... I'm sure there's gonna be a down side. I think, in part, it's to make up for the soft suspension that I have neighther the time or money to address right now.

Maybe I should just buy street tires for it the next time I buy tires... there just aren't many more places to explore down here without loads of trespassing. Still, love the bike and the simplicity of it.

Has anyone had a tire bead pop over the rim or bulges at running tires on the DR650 in the low 30's for street use?
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:47 AM   #72607
gofast1320
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Barko, motolab, rusty rocket, and others. The bike sat for a while and the PO had the carb rebuilt by the local Suzuki shop that is know for high quality work. I think I started the problem by filling the tank and inadvertantly leaving petcock selector on PRI which allowed fuel to run into carb. I'll know more in a bit. The weather has warmed up and I've set aside the morning to change the oil and get it running. I have another petcock I can put on there so I'll do that while I'm at it.
Thanks for tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yep, I have had to replace the o-rings twice in 7 years of owning my DR. I think it has something to do with the damn ethanol.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:01 AM   #72608
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Barko, motolab, rusty rocket, and others. The bike sat for a while and the PO had the carb rebuilt by the local Suzuki shop that is know for high quality work. I think I started the problem by filling the tank and inadvertantly leaving petcock selector on PRI which allowed fuel to run into carb. I'll know more in a bit. The weather has warmed up and I've set aside the morning to change the oil and get it running. I have another petcock I can put on there so I'll do that while I'm at it.
Thanks for tips
The leaking tap or you leaving it in the Prime position is only one of at least two faults. For the gas to leak into your engine, the float mechanism or some part of it has to be malfunctioning too.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:09 AM   #72609
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Generally not needed, as the float needle and needle seat o-ring are usually the culprits and can be replaced separately.

Regards,

Derek
Generally not but my DR got the replacement o-rings and still had problems until I replaced the whole unit and it runs like a champ now
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:20 AM   #72610
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
So I'm now running my Shinko 705's in the low 30's psi range for local commuting (up from high 20's for rear, 30 for front). I'm liking it more, but ... I'm sure there's gonna be a down side. I think, in part, it's to make up for the soft suspension that I have neighther the time or money to address right now.

Maybe I should just buy street tires for it the next time I buy tires... there just aren't many more places to explore down here without loads of trespassing. Still, love the bike and the simplicity of it.

Has anyone had a tire bead pop over the rim or bulges at running tires on the DR650 in the low 30's for street use?
I'm currently running Shinko 705's at 30 psi front and rear on my DR650, and they've been perfectly fine so far. I was considering getting some Avon road tires for my stock rims, but for the price, I don't see that the 705's really give up much on the street compared to those cruiser style tires, they're way the hell cheaper, and they're actually not bad on your basic dirt roads.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:36 AM   #72611
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I think I started the problem by filling the tank and inadvertantly leaving petcock selector on PRI which allowed fuel to run into carb.
As it is not possible for the carb to overflow without fuel getting past the float valve, leaving the petcock in the PRI position cannot be the sole cause.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:37 AM   #72612
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Generally not but my DR got the replacement o-rings and still had problems until I replaced the whole unit and it runs like a champ now
Did you replace the needle when you replaced the o-rings?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #72613
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yep, I have had to replace the o-rings twice in 7 years of owning my DR. I think it has something to do with the damn ethanol.
You're likely to be correct in your assessment.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:52 AM   #72614
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I'm currently running Shinko 705's at 30 psi front and rear on my DR650, and they've been perfectly fine so far. I was considering getting some Avon road tires for my stock rims, but for the price, I don't see that the 705's really give up much on the street compared to those cruiser style tires, they're way the hell cheaper, and they're actually not bad on your basic dirt roads.

Cool. Thanks man.

I ran Shinko fronts on my last bike, and never had a complaint. We all know the horror stories of 705's coming apart, but more and more that's looking like those were underinflated tires.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #72615
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
The leaking tap or you leaving it in the Prime position is only one of at least two faults. For the gas to leak into your engine, the float mechanism or some part of it has to be malfunctioning too.
What he said: ^^^^^

Even leaving the prime position open, the carb should stop more fuel from entering, once the float rises to it's full position.

When my o-rings were bad, the bike wouldn't start even when warmed up, after just a few minutes of sitting when stopped. I would have to shut off the petcock, lay the bike on it's side and allow the bowl to drain, pick it back up, then it would start immediately and I would turn the fuel back on and ride. I would have to remember to shut off my fuel every time I came to a stop the rest of the ride.

(I have the Raptor fueltap) highly recommended. BTW, it comes with the gasket, so don't order one. don't ask why I know.
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
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