ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-08-2013, 07:09 AM   #72601
barko1
barko1
 
barko1's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
Oddometer: 3,209
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Generally not needed, as the float needle and needle seat o-ring are usually the culprits and can be replaced separately.

Regards,

Derek
Generally not but my DR got the replacement o-rings and still had problems until I replaced the whole unit and it runs like a champ now
__________________
DR650, 98 Bimota SB6R, Kawasaki 14, 67 X-6 Scrambler (apart), SL350K1 (apart), 77 Goldwing 1000, Triumph Thunderbird Sport, Triumph Daytona Super III, DR650, MZ Skorpian Sport Cup, 71 Triumph Daytona 500, KDX220
barko1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:20 AM   #72602
neo1piv014
ADV in training
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
So I'm now running my Shinko 705's in the low 30's psi range for local commuting (up from high 20's for rear, 30 for front). I'm liking it more, but ... I'm sure there's gonna be a down side. I think, in part, it's to make up for the soft suspension that I have neighther the time or money to address right now.

Maybe I should just buy street tires for it the next time I buy tires... there just aren't many more places to explore down here without loads of trespassing. Still, love the bike and the simplicity of it.

Has anyone had a tire bead pop over the rim or bulges at running tires on the DR650 in the low 30's for street use?
I'm currently running Shinko 705's at 30 psi front and rear on my DR650, and they've been perfectly fine so far. I was considering getting some Avon road tires for my stock rims, but for the price, I don't see that the 705's really give up much on the street compared to those cruiser style tires, they're way the hell cheaper, and they're actually not bad on your basic dirt roads.
__________________
_________________________
Ride videos
'01 DR650
"The impossible often has a kind of integrity which the merely improbable lacks."
neo1piv014 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:36 AM   #72603
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I think I started the problem by filling the tank and inadvertantly leaving petcock selector on PRI which allowed fuel to run into carb.
As it is not possible for the carb to overflow without fuel getting past the float valve, leaving the petcock in the PRI position cannot be the sole cause.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:37 AM   #72604
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Generally not but my DR got the replacement o-rings and still had problems until I replaced the whole unit and it runs like a champ now
Did you replace the needle when you replaced the o-rings?

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #72605
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yep, I have had to replace the o-rings twice in 7 years of owning my DR. I think it has something to do with the damn ethanol.
You're likely to be correct in your assessment.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:52 AM   #72606
Mambo Dave
Backyard Adventurer
 
Mambo Dave's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 4,982
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I'm currently running Shinko 705's at 30 psi front and rear on my DR650, and they've been perfectly fine so far. I was considering getting some Avon road tires for my stock rims, but for the price, I don't see that the 705's really give up much on the street compared to those cruiser style tires, they're way the hell cheaper, and they're actually not bad on your basic dirt roads.

Cool. Thanks man.

I ran Shinko fronts on my last bike, and never had a complaint. We all know the horror stories of 705's coming apart, but more and more that's looking like those were underinflated tires.
Mambo Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #72607
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
The leaking tap or you leaving it in the Prime position is only one of at least two faults. For the gas to leak into your engine, the float mechanism or some part of it has to be malfunctioning too.
What he said: ^^^^^

Even leaving the prime position open, the carb should stop more fuel from entering, once the float rises to it's full position.

When my o-rings were bad, the bike wouldn't start even when warmed up, after just a few minutes of sitting when stopped. I would have to shut off the petcock, lay the bike on it's side and allow the bowl to drain, pick it back up, then it would start immediately and I would turn the fuel back on and ride. I would have to remember to shut off my fuel every time I came to a stop the rest of the ride.

(I have the Raptor fueltap) highly recommended. BTW, it comes with the gasket, so don't order one. don't ask why I know.
__________________
In the beginning, there was nothing. Even That exploded
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
Rusty Rocket is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 10:57 AM   #72608
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 603


DR's resting inn Copper Canyon area Mexico. These bikes like to travel.

TravelGuy
__________________
TRAVELGUY
DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
.
TRAVELGUY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 11:11 AM   #72609
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,612
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post


DR's resting inn Copper Canyon area Mexico. These bikes like to travel.

TravelGuy
Jeesh: how far South do I have'ta move to be away from that white $hit??
__________________
In the beginning, there was nothing. Even That exploded
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
Rusty Rocket is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 11:51 AM   #72610
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I have noticed that with my TM40, just like the BST, I do have to mess with the idle speed adjustment a bit. Ill start on full choke, runs fine. Starts to stumble, half choke. Starts to stumble, off choke. Then, the RPMs want to drop to 1-1.2k which is too slow, so I turn the idle speed up to about 1500. Once the engine gets thoroughly warmed up, it ends up idling at 1.8k rpms, so I back it off down to 1.5k again. The BST and my new TM40 do this, but I havent had a chance to properly set the idle yet (mixture screws). When is it best for me to try and get the mix set absolutely right? Its further complicated by the fact its now in the 50s here, so im pretty sure the DR never really warms up. I have been changing the oil very frequently as its been in a bunch of dirt (and because im in a humid climate so I want to be very careful about condensation building up in the oil), but I think I need to get some kind of oil cooler block setup for the cold temperatures.

Ive read mention of using a cut down welders glove, and ive of course considered metal plates to cover parts of the fins to allow the DR to warm up. What do you think about any/all of the above? It seems to run perfectly jetted straight from ProCycle, while of course I will need to tweak the idle speed- I dont get lean surge, stumble on sudden WOT, or anything- so, im sure my idle woes are all due part to adjustment and part to temperature..
If, on Full Choke, your bike is stumbling within 30 seconds or so ... then, IMHO, your Pilot Jet is TOO RICH. Go to a leaner Pilot jet. (just one number leaner) This will mean you can stay on full choke longer. Your bike should not begin stumbling on full choke, even after a minute of running. The 50's is NOT cold by most standards for Winter. (lucky bastard! )

Re-adjusting idle up and down is fairly normal procedure. On colder mornings here in Nor Cal, it will be high 30's or low 40's. Once off choke (about a minute or so) I turn up idle just a bit. But takes about 20 minutes of riding before I turn idle back down.

Your Fuel Screw setting can also have an affect on this. For Winter, a slightly Richer setting may help for start up. I have a stock BST ... so a different character than your TM40. But still, You could fine tune the fuel screw, leaning it back out after fully warmed up.

The good news is we are lucky to have a few adjustments to hand to help smooth things out in cold weather. In the 50's I would never cover your Oil Cooler. Just let things warm for a couple minutes, then ride sedately for first 5 minutes. Bike will get plenty warm in 20 minutes.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:01 PM   #72611
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post


DR's resting inn Copper Canyon area Mexico. These bikes like to travel.

TravelGuy
Are you in Copper Canyon now? Gets frosty there eh? I was in a full white out blizzard there, March, 1998 ... we started the day in Sunny 75F temps in Batopilas. By the time we reached junction at main road ... it was a White Out. We took refuge in the little road house there. In two days things cleared up and we continued South. I asked the locals ... "?Es este tiempo normal para Marzo? " ... oh si, normal". who knew?
We forget that Creel is at 8000 ft. ... and that it's still part of the deadly Sierra (Sierra Tarahumaru) chain.

Stay Warm, Stay safe!
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 01:40 PM   #72612
garnaro
MotoBlunderer
 
garnaro's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Somewhere in Africa
Oddometer: 245
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Just so long as you put it back together right. After talking to a couple different people, I still don't exactly understand how to set the float height.
I was confused about this too after reading the BST bible (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184) and the Suzuki manual. I think that we sorted it out in this discussion:
http://drriders.com/topic6542-30.html
Please correct if any of this is wrong.

BST bible way - no measurement, just make the seam in the middle of the float and the float bowl sealing surface parallel when the carb is part way inverted (when the float needle assembly just makes contact with its seat):



Suzuki manual way - invert carb all the way and use calipers and measure 14.7 mm from the bottom most part of the float to the float bowl sealing surface:

__________________
bugsonmyboard.org
two wheeled wave hunting dispatches
garnaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 01:54 PM   #72613
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
If, on Full Choke, your bike is stumbling within 30 seconds or so ... then, IMHO, your Pilot Jet is TOO RICH. Go to a leaner Pilot jet. (just one number leaner) This will mean you can stay on full choke longer. Your bike should not begin stumbling on full choke, even after a minute of running.
Technically, BST40 carbs use a cold start enrichment circuit instead of a choke. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

The pilot jet size should be changed in order to tune 1/16 and 1/8 opening. It should not be changed solely in order to alter the idle mixture.

Quote:
Your Fuel Screw setting can also have an affect on this. For Winter, a slightly Richer setting may help for start up.
The fuel screw setting should be the only thing that is changed to affect idle mixture, unless it runs out of range. If it does run out of range, it's likely because the pilot jet is clogged, not because a different size needs to be installed.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 01:59 PM   #72614
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryUnguided View Post
I was confused about this too after reading the BST bible (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184) and the Suzuki manual. I think that we sorted it out in this discussion:
http://drriders.com/topic6542-30.html
Please correct if any of this is wrong.

BST bible way - no measurement, just make the seam in the middle of the float and the float bowl sealing surface parallel when the carb is part way inverted (when the float needle assembly just makes contact with its seat):



Suzuki manual way - invert carb all the way and use calipers and measure 14.7 mm from the bottom most part of the float to the float bowl sealing surface:

Did you read http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=70683?

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 02:18 PM   #72615
shu
...
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
So I'm now running my Shinko 705's in the low 30's psi range for local commuting (up from high 20's for rear, 30 for front).

Most manufacturers seem to recommend a couple of pounds higher pressure in the Rear than the Front.

I'm liking it more, but ... I'm sure there's gonna be a down side. I think, in part, it's to make up for the soft suspension that I have neighther the time or money to address right now.

Maybe I should just buy street tires for it the next time I buy tires... there just aren't many more places to explore down here without loads of trespassing. Still, love the bike and the simplicity of it.

Has anyone had a tire bead pop over the rim or bulges at running tires on the DR650 in the low 30's for street use?
You shouldn't have problems until you get very low, like less than 18 pounds. Even then what will happen is the tire may rotate a bit and tear the stem out of the tube.

Suzuki recommends 23 F 25 R for the OEM Trailwings. I usually run 26F 28R on my tires (currently Heidenau K 60) - I get a better 'sticky' feel in the twisties than if I put 30+ in my tires.

.............shu
shu is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014