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Old 01-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #72631
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
my home-built adventure bike (Ninja 500)
OK, you can't mention that without being ready to throw out some pix...
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:59 PM   #72632
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I suppose I should have qualified my statement with, "if the stock pilot jet is installed"...

I am curious though, did you try to adjust the idle mixture via the fuel screw and find it was closed or close to it when adjusted properly before asking Marc for advice?

Regards,

Derek
This was a friends bike. But yes, he had an extended fuel screw. I adjusted it IN until it stumbled, then out a half turn ... it was set about one turn out. But the rich stumble with choke on persisted and would start with NO choke when stone cold. Once Pilot jet was changed back to stock I went a tiny bit richer on the fuel screw and all was well.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:01 PM   #72633
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Sorry for jumping in on what i guess I should know, but I haven't heard the stories of the Shinko's coming apart. Is this common? I've probably got over 25K miles from several 705's on the rear of my DR with no problems. Were there any recalls or anything?

Thanks
Love my 705's on the DR and the TT350.
The sizes we use are rated to higher speeds than the big bike ones.

Off road, I run 20f/18r.

Yet to find a situation they haven't got me through yet.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:15 PM   #72634
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This was a friends bike. But yes, he had an extended fuel screw. I adjusted it IN until it stumbled, then out a half turn ... it was set about one turn out. But the rich stumble with choke on persisted and would start with NO choke when stone cold. Once Pilot jet was changed back to stock I went a tiny bit richer on the fuel screw and all was well.
+1
It's well documented on the various DR650 forums that a pilot jet larger than stock will cause a rich stumble.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:15 PM   #72635
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'm done with the front forks and now I'm eyeing up the rear shock and wondering how many of you out there have simply replaced the stock spring and changed the oil weight and said "hey this works great it's all I need"?

If I wen't back in later because I didn't like the performance would I still be able to use the same replacement spring with the valving upgrade? I don't mind several tries at the shock as long as I'm not throwing away $$ on the spring that I couldn't use in round two.
Go for it. Even if you decide you want to buy a whole new shock ... you won't have any trouble selling off that Eibach spring if you no longer need it.

If you go with a re-valve the spring will most definitely be put to use unless you are the ideal weight for the stock spring. (130 to 160 lbs.)

I bought an Eibach spring and put it on the stock shock with no other changes. Like putting lipstick on a pig. Well, not that bad .... it did help but the lack of rebound damping was clear along with a certain lack of sophistication in the ride. Not ideal.

If you know shocks you can bust into that stock KYB and re-do the shim stack, get better pistons and you'll be better off. My shock knowledge is limited so I just got hold of an Ohlins.

Lots of ways to go here ... but unless you really can do shocks I'd let a pro set it up or buy aftermarket. Really DOES make a difference over all with the DR650 and will match the goodness of your forks.

Contact this guy for inexpensive rebuilds of stock shock:
http://www.manta.com/c/mmlpmhr/hlebo...ing-suspension

If you use John Hlebo, send the spring you want to use with the shock.
Magic! Be sure to tell him your weight, riding level and style and terrain ridden, bike and bike weight. A true Mom and Pop shop ... very reasonable prices.

He deals with Pros so don't tell him your "FAST" unless you are a Pro level rider.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:16 PM   #72636
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This was a friends bike. But yes, he had an extended fuel screw. I adjusted it IN until it stumbled, then out a half turn ... it was set about one turn out. But the rich stumble with choke on persisted and would start with NO choke when stone cold. Once Pilot jet was changed back to stock I went a tiny bit richer on the fuel screw and all was well.
The screw having to be in that far should definitely be interpreted as the pilot jet being too large. When it's quite a bit too large, and the screw is far in as a result, the adjustment becomes overly sensitive as well (i.e. a small adjustment makes a large difference in terms of percentage change in area exposed), meaning that 1/2 turn out from a lean stumble could very well have been too much.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:18 PM   #72637
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Sorry for jumping in on what i guess I should know, but I haven't heard the stories of the Shinko's coming apart. Is this common? I've probably got over 25K miles from several 705's on the rear of my DR with no problems. Were there any recalls or anything?

Thanks
Wait...you got 25k out of a single set of 705's, or you've put a total of 25k on 705's over the course of several tires? I've had the 705's on mine for probably 3000-4000 miles of almost all highway and in town commuting, and the rear tire is definitely starting to square off.

Then again, I'm a pudgy kid.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:28 PM   #72638
GSF1200S
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Motolab and ADV Grifter, fantastic info thanks. I definitely have some white sludge in the breather hose that goes from the crankcase to the airbox. Is that normal? I might look into an oil cooler bypass valve for very cold climate on my trip..
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:08 AM   #72639
dljocky
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Ha! I'm probably more pudgy than you.
No, I get about 6K miles on a rear 705 and could get more, but I change them when they start to wear below where I feel comfortable. Out of all my tires I've ran, this one is a keeper.


Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Wait...you got 25k out of a single set of 705's, or you've put a total of 25k on 705's over the course of several tires? I've had the 705's on mine for probably 3000-4000 miles of almost all highway and in town commuting, and the rear tire is definitely starting to square off.

Then again, I'm a pudgy kid.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:56 AM   #72640
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Thanks for that, Doug.

I like the looks of this one:



But... right now I'm in 'KLR' mode, and these are more like 'BMW' mode, so I'll just keep using my cardboard wind block. Maybe soon, though.....

............shu
the manual adjust one does sound nice, but the t-stat ones seem to be always slightly open, which ensure that there is always proper flow w/no air in the system. i am considering one of these w/an aftermarket oil cooler more for my buell s2, then to install in my dr, but i might yust buy two of these, when i do my buell...

doug s.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:25 AM   #72641
Skidmarkart
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SO, I dropped my bike pulling out of my house today. Wet stock off road tires + pavement + a tiny bit too much gas and boom, I am on the ground. Fortunately, nothing was hurt except my bike (and my pride).

I kept reading that the stock bars would go with the first tip-over and that was no exaggeration. While it did really no damage to the bike, it bent the hell out of the bars, and the shifter (which put a serious gouge in the case). Anyway, think I will be replacing these bits today.

Does anyone have any advice on a good (relatively inexpensive) bar and shifter? I'm just a commuter - so I don't really need a 2 inch billet aluminum anything. Hell - replacing with stock would be fine with me.

TIA for any info.

BTW - I bent everything back and still road to work. Even with bent bits it was more fun than riding in a car.

Skidmarkart screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 07:17 AM
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:00 AM   #72642
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
SO, I dropped my bike pulling out of my house today. Wet stock off road tires + pavement + a tiny bot too much gas and boom, I am on the ground. Fortunately, nothing was hurt except my bike (and my pride).

I kept reading that the stock bars would go with the first tip-over and that was no exaggeration. While it did really no damage to the bike, it bent the hell out of the bars, and the shifter (which put a serious gouge in the case). Anyway, think I will be replacing these bits today.

Does anyone have any advice on a good (relatively inexpensive) bar and shifter? I'm just a commuter - so I don't really need a 2 inch billet aluminum anything. Hell - replacing with stock would be fine with me.

TIA for any info.

BTW - I bent everything back and still road to work. Even with bent bits it was more fun than riding in a car.
Livin' up to your screen name, eh?

First time outta my driveway on a Kenda Trakmaster rear knobby, after a month on stock tire, I came within a half second of doing the same.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:14 AM   #72643
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
SO, I dropped my bike pulling out of my house today. Wet stock off road tires + pavement + a tiny bot too much gas and boom, I am on the ground. Fortunately, nothing was hurt except my bike (and my pride).

I kept reading that the stock bars would go with the first tip-over and that was no exaggeration. While it did really no damage to the bike, it bent the hell out of the bars, and the shifter (which put a serious gouge in the case). Anyway, think I will be replacing these bits today.

Does anyone have any advice on a good (relatively inexpensive) bar and shifter? I'm just a commuter - so I don't really need a 2 inch billet aluminum anything. Hell - replacing with stock would be fine with me.

TIA for any info.

BTW - I bent everything back and still road to work. Even with bent bits it was more fun than riding in a car.
I've got the ProTaper SE bars with the Henry/Reed bend (if I remember correctly), and they've survived several tip overs, slides, and hard crashes. I thought I was going to need to replace them at one point, and I think they were under $80. They fit in the stock bar mounts, so no need to change hardware there. As for the shift lever, I've never had that bend in much regardless of how hard it went down, so I don't know about a replacement other than stock for that part.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:46 AM   #72644
Skidmarkart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Livin' up to your screen name, eh?.
I'm just glad my medium was in pavement scratches, and no Jackson Pollock oil splatter. That shifter damn near put a hole in my engine.

Live and learn. I shouldn't complain. First time I have dropped a bike since 1992. Something tells me I'll be a bit more sore this time.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:36 AM   #72645
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I'm just glad my medium was in pavement scratches, and no Jackson Pollock oil splatter. That shifter damn near put a hole in my engine.

Live and learn. I shouldn't complain. First time I have dropped a bike since 1992. Something tells me I'll be a bit more sore this time.
That procycle engine armor is definitely worth the money for stuff like that.
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