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Old 01-10-2013, 06:06 AM   #72706
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Once again wrong. MOST modern cars have bronze bushing rods now: Chevy LS motors, Ford Modular motors, Honda motors to name a few...
And in motorcycles the gsxrs, and busas.


Try again.
Actually you are wrong, can't speak for cars but I have rebuilt a Busa and I know for a fact it does not have bushings at the piston pin. It does have BEARINGS (OK, they're really bushings but that's not what they're called) where the con rod connects to the crank but you would have to be kinda of dense not to understand what he was talking about.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:46 AM   #72707
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Actually you are wrong, can't speak for cars but I have rebuilt a Busa and I know for a fact it does not have bushings at the piston pin. It does have BEARINGS (OK, they're really bushings but that's not what they're called) where the con rod connects to the crank but you would have to be kinda of dense not to understand what he was talking about.
Well...Here are stock busa rods. You can clearly see the bushing in the small end.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-07-99-00-...sories&vxp=mtr
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:49 AM   #72708
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Guys, this sounds very bad. Getting the rod out of the engine to have anything done to it would be major PITA for me, I really wasn't planning on splitting the crankcase (plus I don't have the special tools for this job).
I for sure will check how the small end looks, as soon as I have a chance.
Mongle, you mean even being given brand new stock rod, piston and pin, you would re-hone them to alter the stock clearances between the new items?

I completely understand. I say if the rod looks good: get a new pin and just have the piston honed. Obviously it was running when you took it apart so it is not like it is so screwed up it will never run again.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:55 AM   #72709
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Well...Here are stock busa rods. You can clearly see the bushing in the small end.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-07-99-00-...sories&vxp=mtr
Ahh I stand corrected. I guess since they are not replaceable I assumed they weren't there. I just put in new bearings and only replaced the rings on the pistons. The rods and pistons weren't replaced.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:04 AM   #72710
Carl Childers
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Question Shock Removal

The manual's not much help on this one, at least it seems more to describe the whole swing arm / linkage/ shock removal. It looks to me like I'd be removing the rear tire, and the air box and then just the top and bottom shock bolt, Is that correct or is there more to it?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:46 AM   #72711
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I completely understand. I say if the rod looks good: get a new pin and just have the piston honed. Obviously it was running when you took it apart so it is not like it is so screwed up it will never run again.
I'm starting to lean towards replacing the piston as well, for peace of mind...
Yes, the bike was running ok-ish, definitely it did not make any abnormal/suspect noises (only a nasty vibration that was discussed on this thread - pages 4662 to 4668 assuming 15 posts per page are shown). I initially blamed the counter balancer for this issue, I suspected it might have not been aligned correctly, however it proved not to be the case:



What I did notice while taking the top end apart is that one of the 4 main (long) bolts securing the cylinder and cylinder head was over-tightened. The cylinder gasket was leaking at the front of the engine, on the left side. I am beginning to suspect the Italian owner might have attempted to over-tighten the bolt in an attempt to "fix" the oil leak. The other 3 came off pretty easily, but this one corresponding to the leaky corner must have been tightened well over 100Nm, it was a real struggle to get it off.
Is it possible for such an incorrect tightening of just one of the 4 bolts to make the motor vibrate more than it should? (I think it could kinda throw the whole head assembly a bit out of alignment, on a microscopic scale). This particular bolt is directly accessible without taking anything off the bike.

deathu screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 08:51 AM
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:46 AM   #72712
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
The manual's not much help on this one, at least it seems more to describe the whole swing arm / linkage/ shock removal. It looks to me like I'd be removing the rear tire, and the air box and then just the top and bottom shock bolt, Is that correct or is there more to it?

No need to remove the rear tire. Lift bike, remove the air box & rubber intake, pull shock from top.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:27 AM   #72713
dman
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Intake noise

After a year of ownership, I'm finally starting to put some more miles on my DR650. It's an '07 that had a jet kit and airbox cutout by the PO, with stock exhaust. It seems to run fine, but on the freeway drones needed to get to the fun stuff around here, the intake noise really bothers me. Yes, I do wear earplugs but after 40 years of riding I hate loud bikes. Before I start covering up the opening, any other suggestions? Is it mostly the lack of snorkel, or the increased area that causes the noise? I looked around on EBay and couldn't find a stock snorkel though I would assume there are lots of them lying around unused. I was also thinking of fabbing a new snorkel to fit the larger opening but pointing back ....

Thanks - dman
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:35 AM   #72714
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
No need to remove the rear tire. Lift bike, remove the air box & rubber intake, pull shock from top.
Of course, gotta remove the seat too, but otherwise he's right. I just did this for the first time last week. Took about 20 minutes or less!
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:28 AM   #72715
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
After a year of ownership, I'm finally starting to put some more miles on my DR650. It's an '07 that had a jet kit and airbox cutout by the PO, with stock exhaust. It seems to run fine, but on the freeway drones needed to get to the fun stuff around here, the intake noise really bothers me. Yes, I do wear earplugs but after 40 years of riding I hate loud bikes. Before I start covering up the opening, any other suggestions? Is it mostly the lack of snorkel, or the increased area that causes the noise? I looked around on EBay and couldn't find a stock snorkel though I would assume there are lots of them lying around unused. I was also thinking of fabbing a new snorkel to fit the larger opening but pointing back ....

Thanks - dman
If the Air Box top has been cut out per Jesse template ... then it's too late to go back to the snorkel. To do that ... you'll need a new Air Box.
But it's easy to fab up a plastic piece to cover all or part of the opening ... this may deaden some of the intake honk.

But it's be a shame as this will have a negative affect on power overall and throttle response.
Funny, the intake honk on my bike (open air box top) does not bother me at all. I hardly notice it. Maybe it's my Corbin seat muffling some of that intake HONK?

Good ear plugs ... properly inserted ... really make all the difference. Try Howard Leight Laser Light plugs. Excellent! Comfortable with great attenuation. Buy them 200 pair per box. About $25. If you cover the air box back up you may have to re jet (main jet) and adjust needle clip position. Also fuel screw and idle will need adjusting too.

Being in Santa Cruz you have some of the coolest roads in all of California right out your back door. For Dual Sport riding ... head South to Los Padres Nat. Forest. Lots of cool dirt roads above Big Sur and further South and East.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:33 AM   #72716
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Enough Voltage ?

Replaced the taillight bulb with a LED (thanks for the tips fellas), and now with high beam on, Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full, average rpm running, my 476 GPS is showing me 12.2 volts coming to it. Never dropped below that unless at idle.

Under this condition, is that enough not to kill the battery and be considered sufficient ?

14. something volts with the heated gear off.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #72717
dman
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Being in Santa Cruz you have some of the coolest roads in all of California right out your back door. For Dual Sport riding ... head South to Los Padres Nat. Forest. Lots of cool dirt roads above Big Sur and further South and East.
The freeway return from this ride on Monday really had me noticing the intake noise.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854219

But I'll try some other earplugs ... thanks for the tip. At this point I'd rather put up with noise than rejet or lose power, but I'll start playing around with some duct tape and see if anything works.

-dman
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:46 AM   #72718
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Replaced the taillight bulb with a LED (thanks for the tips fellas), and now with high beam on, Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full, average rpm running, my 476 GPS is showing me 12.2 volts coming to it. Never dropped below that unless at idle.

Under this condition, is that enough not to kill the battery and be considered sufficient ?

14. something volts with the heated gear off.
I'd call that about normal. I'm guessing your Gerbing and Gloves add up to about 100 Watts ... GPS is near nil, but you've still got to run headlight, tail, signals, CDI et al. So you're on the edge of being in deficit. On my bike ... with all the same stuff on ... my Batt went dead after about four hours.

Few things to do:
1. HID headlight (saves 20 Watts, triples brightness)

2. In City/Town riding, turn off accessories and lay off brake light and signals as much as is safe/practical.

3. With Day Time riding you may consider turning off headlight (saves 55 Watts) This allows you to run Gerbing on HI for COLD day time riding.
The Gerbing will put out more heat when it's got enough juice! Otherwise they only get luke warm.

~~~~~~~~~~~
A question for you ... our SF Bay Pilot just cracked up a cargo boat into the Bay Bridge. (no idea why) But they said he's paid $435,000 a year !!!!
Can that be right? If so ... man, once again, I'm in the wrong business!!
Are you guys really paid that sort of coin?
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:04 AM   #72719
DockingPilot
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Thanks Patrick,
yea, I just wanted to test the max load and see if I was still ok. I knew it was on the cusp, but wasn't which side of that cusp I was on at 12.2 volts indicated.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:10 AM   #72720
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
But, the end can be re-honed. Chances are it is on the small size and anyone who actually does rods wouldn't think twice about puting .0002-.0003" more clearance on the pin. And it will not hurt the life of the rod. It is a common and proven practice.
The rod honing machines I have seen would not be able to hold the rod properly with the crankshaft assembled. If it has to come apart anyway there's no reason to hone a galled rod, just put in a new rod, bearing and crankpin.
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