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Old 01-10-2013, 12:15 PM   #72721
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Once again wrong. MOST modern cars have bronze bushing rods now: Chevy LS motors, Ford Modular motors, Honda motors to name a few...
And in motorcycles the gsxrs, and busas.
Well, we're talking about motorcycles here.
Sure, there are some exceptions like the 'Busa but it is more common for modern motorcycle engines to have no bushings in the small end of the rod.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:05 PM   #72722
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Wouldn't detonation leave other visible traces/marks as well?
One of the first places detonation will make itself known is at the wrist pin (unless it's been DLC coated), but there may also be cylinder wall scuffing on the exhaust side of the bore.
Quote:
Also I don't know, what could possibly cause detonation in such a low compression engine?
Combination of carbon build up, lean mixtures and/or low octane (batch of bad gas).

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Old 01-10-2013, 01:15 PM   #72723
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Combination of carbon build up, lean mixtures and/or low octane (batch of bad gas).
+1
And burning oil will lower the effective octane of the fuel.

Detonation isn't that unusual in the DR. When mine was new and still all stock it would detonate at lower RPM under light throttle. For example running a steady 45 mph in 5th gear I could hear faint detonation rattle.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #72724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
And burning oil will lower the effective octane of the fuel.
The significance of this cannot be overstated.
Quote:
When mine was new and still all stock it would detonate at lower RPM under light throttle. For example running a steady 45 mph in 5th gear I could hear faint detonation rattle.
If you can hear it, it's pretty bad. It is also possible that the ignition curve is too aggressive in this area.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #72725
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Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
The manual's not much help on this one, at least it seems more to describe the whole swing arm / linkage/ shock removal. It looks to me like I'd be removing the rear tire, and the air box and then just the top and bottom shock bolt, Is that correct or is there more to it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
No need to remove the rear tire. Lift bike, remove the air box & rubber intake, pull shock from top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Of course, gotta remove the seat too, but otherwise he's right. I just did this for the first time last week. Took about 20 minutes or less!
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:45 PM   #72726
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
Huh...! I have always removed the airbox. Never considered that the shock might come out the side...
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:29 PM   #72727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'd call that about normal. I'm guessing your Gerbing and Gloves add up to about 100 Watts ... GPS is near nil, but you've still got to run headlight, tail, signals, CDI et al. So you're on the edge of being in deficit. On my bike ... with all the same stuff on ... my Batt went dead after about four hours.

Few things to do:
1. HID headlight (saves 20 Watts, triples brightness)

2. In City/Town riding, turn off accessories and lay off brake light and signals as much as is safe/practical.

3. With Day Time riding you may consider turning off headlight (saves 55 Watts) This allows you to run Gerbing on HI for COLD day time riding.
The Gerbing will put out more heat when it's got enough juice! Otherwise they only get luke warm.

~~~~~~~~~~~
A question for you ... our SF Bay Pilot just cracked up a cargo boat into the Bay Bridge. (no idea why) But they said he's paid $435,000 a year !!!!
Can that be right? If so ... man, once again, I'm in the wrong business!!
Are you guys really paid that sort of coin?

As a former coastie in the Bay Area (VTS,MSO) many moons ago I suspect they make good money. The money is well earned from what I've seen (ladders, waves, rain, dark, sharks etc.)

The currents in that body of water are powerful. Hard to explain to a landlubber (no offense meant) but if the ship lost propulsion at an inopportune moment it's toast. Immediately. I have no idea what happened obviously. Also curious..
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #72728
Carl Childers
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Sorry More Shock Stuff!

Thank you both for the removal tips. Now the confusion is just what the hell to do with the shock its self. I know there is a lot of good information and parts and rebuilders out there but I keep coming back to this bit of nagging information that still has me wondering what direction to take. Forgive me if this is a little long but it's important.

First my stock shock is on its standard settings. It's always been harsh riding and I spend more time on the pegs because of it. I have read here many times that the spring is too soft, poor damping etc. This past summer I did a 1.000 mile off road trip loaded down with camping gear tools and spares along with all my riding gear, I weigh about 195 in my skivies. HERE'S THE THING: on that trip through jeep tails, rutted single track and boulder fields the rear shock never felt that good before or since! I'm not Rodger DeCoster but I'm not all that bad of an off road rider, I'll always challenge myself on every ride loaded up with gear or not so riding style wasn't altered .

OK.........that's the background........I can't understand why the shock would be better not worse with that kind of load if it's supposed to be a mushy pogo stick to begin with.

I'd actually be happy with a shock that peformed like my overloaded stocker, it soaked up everything without transfering harsh jolts to me sitting or standing.

Thanks in advance to everyone who has had the patience to read this and offer up advice.

Carl Childers screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 06:48 PM
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:08 PM   #72729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
~~~~~~~~~~~
A question for you ... our SF Bay Pilot just cracked up a cargo boat into the Bay Bridge. (no idea why) But they said he's paid $435,000 a year !!!!
Can that be right? If so ... man, once again, I'm in the wrong business!!
Are you guys really paid that sort of coin?
Missed that part of yor post.

You think thats a lot, you should see what the Miss River Pilots in Louisiana make. They were getting near $7 annualy and were looking to raise their rates until they came onto the radar screen of the State Board of Commissioners.

There is a lot of liability. A 1'000 oil tanker coming into port with just 2' under keel clearance in a 600' wide channel passing other outbound ships with max current at 0300 is a Little stressful . Its not like if we screw up we just pull the nail out and start again. We are criminally prosecuted and hit the national news like the San Fran Bay Pilot was. And that was nothing. Those fellas continuously work in restricted visibility. Thats gotta suck with your face in a radar screen every time you move a ship.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:55 PM   #72730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'd actually be happy with a shock that peformed like my overloaded stocker, it soaked up everything without transfering harsh jots to me sitting or standing.

Cogent rebuild.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:17 PM   #72731
stoney4vida
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What would be the best adhesive for mounting case armor to my DR ?
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:30 PM   #72732
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Originally Posted by stoney4vida View Post
What would be the best adhesive for mounting case armor to my DR ?

silicon
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:30 PM   #72733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
BergDonk, thanks. Good to know. Just took mine off via the airbox removal route. It's now at Cogent. Good to know there's another way to do it. May be usefull if a field repair is ever needed.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #72734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Thank you both for the removal tips. Now the confusion is just what the hell to do with the shock its self. I know there is a lot of good information and parts and rebuilders out there but I keep coming back to this bit of nagging information that still has me wondering what direction to take. Forgive me if this is a little long but it's important.

First my stock shock is on its standard settings. It's always been harsh riding and I spend more time on the pegs because of it. I have read here many times that the spring is too soft, poor damping etc. This past summer I did a 1.000 mile off road trip loaded down with camping gear tools and spares along with all my riding gear, I weigh about 195 in my skivies. HERE'S THE THING: on that trip through jeep tails, rutted single track and boulder fields the rear shock never felt that good before or since! I'm not Rodger DeCoster but I'm not all that bad of an off road rider, I'll always challenge myself on every ride loaded up with gear or not so riding style wasn't altered .

OK.........that's the background........I can't understand why the shock would be better not worse with that kind of load if it's supposed to be a mushy pogo stick to begin with.

I'd actually be happy with a shock that peformed like my overloaded stocker, it soaked up everything without transfering harsh jots to me sitting or standing.

Thanks in advance to everyone who has had the patience to read this and offer up advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
I can't answer why the squished stock shock works better than when it's unloaded, but Rick at Cogent can. motocd.com

I've ridden stock suspension Japanese bikes for 25 years. I never wanted to spend the money, don't ride fast anymore, how bad can they be?
Really, really..............really bad. I have 28,836 miles on my Cogent as of Tuesday. You know how the rear end releases in the stutter bumps and all you can do is coast until it reconnects? Not any more! Whether under braking into a turn or trying to accelerate out of a stutter bumped corner, I have hook-up. I went with the rebound option and it worked out for me. It was just a little harsh, so I backed off both the rebound and compression 2 clicks, rock-n-roll.

But I can answer one of your earlier questions. I'm still running the stock shock spring (6.5) on my Cogent (still don't want to spend money ). So if you want to try a 7.x or 8.x spring and upgrade the shock later you can. But I don't know if DIY kit from Procycle uses the same spring diameter.

For reference: I weigh 180 in street clothes and the 6.5 spring is just barely enough, I really need to by a 7.x this season.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 08:14 PM
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #72735
Adv Grifter
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@@@ OFF DR650 Topic @@@

Quote:
Originally Posted by dickensheets View Post
As a former coastie in the Bay Area (VTS,MSO) many moons ago I suspect they make good money. The money is well earned from what I've seen (ladders, waves, rain, dark, sharks etc.)

The currents in that body of water are powerful. Hard to explain to a landlubber (no offense meant) but if the ship lost propulsion at an inopportune moment it's toast. Immediately. I have no idea what happened obviously. Also curious..
Understood ... no easy deal for sure but that's as much as the President!
Landlubber? You betcha! I Barf at the site of open ocean! ... but when I was young and dumb I did make 6 crossings of the Drake Passage ... between Ushuaia and Palmer Station, Ant.
Also lived and surfed at Sunset Beach, Hi. for 9 months ... so I've seen a few strong currents.

On one crossing of the Drake we had a sea state of 9. 60 ft. waves, 80 knot winds, all ahead full just to maintain position. No progress for 48 hours, until storm faded. Best crossing EVER! (oh, and the little 125 ft. motor sailor I was on was taking on 3000 gallons of water an hour ... thank goodness for good bilge pumps (5). Look up the history of the boat, long decommissioned: RV Hero.
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