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Old 01-10-2013, 05:55 PM   #72721
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'd actually be happy with a shock that peformed like my overloaded stocker, it soaked up everything without transfering harsh jots to me sitting or standing.

Cogent rebuild.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:17 PM   #72722
stoney4vida
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What would be the best adhesive for mounting case armor to my DR ?
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:30 PM   #72723
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoney4vida View Post
What would be the best adhesive for mounting case armor to my DR ?

silicon
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:30 PM   #72724
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
BergDonk, thanks. Good to know. Just took mine off via the airbox removal route. It's now at Cogent. Good to know there's another way to do it. May be usefull if a field repair is ever needed.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #72725
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Thank you both for the removal tips. Now the confusion is just what the hell to do with the shock its self. I know there is a lot of good information and parts and rebuilders out there but I keep coming back to this bit of nagging information that still has me wondering what direction to take. Forgive me if this is a little long but it's important.

First my stock shock is on its standard settings. It's always been harsh riding and I spend more time on the pegs because of it. I have read here many times that the spring is too soft, poor damping etc. This past summer I did a 1.000 mile off road trip loaded down with camping gear tools and spares along with all my riding gear, I weigh about 195 in my skivies. HERE'S THE THING: on that trip through jeep tails, rutted single track and boulder fields the rear shock never felt that good before or since! I'm not Rodger DeCoster but I'm not all that bad of an off road rider, I'll always challenge myself on every ride loaded up with gear or not so riding style wasn't altered .

OK.........that's the background........I can't understand why the shock would be better not worse with that kind of load if it's supposed to be a mushy pogo stick to begin with.

I'd actually be happy with a shock that peformed like my overloaded stocker, it soaked up everything without transfering harsh jots to me sitting or standing.

Thanks in advance to everyone who has had the patience to read this and offer up advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
I can't answer why the squished stock shock works better than when it's unloaded, but Rick at Cogent can. motocd.com

I've ridden stock suspension Japanese bikes for 25 years. I never wanted to spend the money, don't ride fast anymore, how bad can they be?
Really, really..............really bad. I have 28,836 miles on my Cogent as of Tuesday. You know how the rear end releases in the stutter bumps and all you can do is coast until it reconnects? Not any more! Whether under braking into a turn or trying to accelerate out of a stutter bumped corner, I have hook-up. I went with the rebound option and it worked out for me. It was just a little harsh, so I backed off both the rebound and compression 2 clicks, rock-n-roll.

But I can answer one of your earlier questions. I'm still running the stock shock spring (6.5) on my Cogent (still don't want to spend money ). So if you want to try a 7.x or 8.x spring and upgrade the shock later you can. But I don't know if DIY kit from Procycle uses the same spring diameter.

For reference: I weigh 180 in street clothes and the 6.5 spring is just barely enough, I really need to by a 7.x this season.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 08:14 PM
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #72726
Adv Grifter
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@@@ OFF DR650 Topic @@@

Quote:
Originally Posted by dickensheets View Post
As a former coastie in the Bay Area (VTS,MSO) many moons ago I suspect they make good money. The money is well earned from what I've seen (ladders, waves, rain, dark, sharks etc.)

The currents in that body of water are powerful. Hard to explain to a landlubber (no offense meant) but if the ship lost propulsion at an inopportune moment it's toast. Immediately. I have no idea what happened obviously. Also curious..
Understood ... no easy deal for sure but that's as much as the President!
Landlubber? You betcha! I Barf at the site of open ocean! ... but when I was young and dumb I did make 6 crossings of the Drake Passage ... between Ushuaia and Palmer Station, Ant.
Also lived and surfed at Sunset Beach, Hi. for 9 months ... so I've seen a few strong currents.

On one crossing of the Drake we had a sea state of 9. 60 ft. waves, 80 knot winds, all ahead full just to maintain position. No progress for 48 hours, until storm faded. Best crossing EVER! (oh, and the little 125 ft. motor sailor I was on was taking on 3000 gallons of water an hour ... thank goodness for good bilge pumps (5). Look up the history of the boat, long decommissioned: RV Hero.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:21 PM   #72727
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Look up the history of the boat, long decommissioned: RV Hero.
http://www.worldnavalships.com/forum...ead.php?t=5030
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:44 PM   #72728
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoney4vida View Post
What would be the best adhesive for mounting case armor to my DR ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
silicon
Red silicone. There's a how to HERE
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #72729
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Huh...! I have always removed the airbox. Never considered that the shock might come out the side...
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
BergDonk, thanks. Good to know. Just took mine off via the airbox removal route. It's now at Cogent. Good to know there's another way to do it. May be usefull if a field repair is ever needed.
Recollecting further, it might also require the removal of the link from the frame. If I'm pulling the shock I always service the bearings and it comes off anyway, so not absolutely sure if it needs to come off, but its only one extra bolt if it does.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:00 PM   #72730
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Recollecting further, it might also require the removal of the link from the frame. If I'm pulling the shock I always service the bearings and it comes off anyway, so not absolutely sure if it needs to come off, but its only one extra bolt if it does.
That's the hardest bolt. If you're going to remove the link from the frame it's easier to take the shock out the bottom.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:08 PM   #72731
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+1 Have done that several times.

TravelGuy


Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That's the hardest bolt. If you're going to remove the link from the frame it's easier to take the shock out the bottom.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:12 PM   #72732
pzs
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Mixture screw, pilot jet question advice needed

If bike runs best with mixture screw all the way in, is the pilot jet too lean??......powerbomb header, gsx can, opened airbox, Dyno jet kit fitted.

Bike runs well, but it has a very slight hesitation just off idle, and possible very slight surging at very light throttle position.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:24 PM   #72733
DustyOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzs View Post
If bike runs best with mixture screw all the way in, is the pilot jet too lean??......powerbomb header, gsx can, opened airbox, Dyno jet kit fitted.

Bike runs well, but it has a very slight hesitation just off idle, and possible very slight surging at very light throttle position.
turning in the mixture screw leans it out at the idle and lower rpms

so, this means the bike is too rich in this area

pull the pilot jet and slip the next size smaller in.
then try adjusting the mixture screw again.

of course, you may even have to go down another size if needed


......of course, with the air spinning the other way as it does down under where you are, I may just have all of this BACKWARDS.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:27 PM   #72734
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Ok, since I'm cheap......... how about if we use your oil temp gauge? Maybe next time you go out you could note the air temp. and tell us how long it takes your oil to get to 200*? That would give me a ball park idea about my warm up time and blocking the oil cooler off as well.

Thanks........shu
A few days ago the conversation was about getting the DR up to operating temps in cooler weather. I got a break in the schedule and a 50* plus day and got these numbers.

Air temp was 52-54*, digital thermo on the handlebars.

For the first 65 miles I had the oil cooler closed off with a piece of cardboard, that thin 2 ply cereal box stuff. Who cares? It was the perfect thickness for sliding behind the mounting screws, no zip ties needed. In answer to an earlier question: This put the cardboard snug to the fins and pretty much stopped all airflow thru the cooler. I'd be completely comfortable with the air flow completely blocked up to 60* ambient, especially running full synthetic. Kommando has said the oil cooler is redundant in any sane riding temps.

Oil temp ran between 205-215 degrees with the usual 10-20* increase when hitting consecutive stop lights. But almost all of the mileage was non-stop county roads 20-55mph.

At 65 miles it occurred to me that without removing the cardboard, I'd have no useful information. So I rode the last 40 miles, cardboard out. Same roads, temps 175-195* and the same 10-20* increase when forced to stop repeatedly.

205 warning:
It's my belief that condensation doesn't burn out of the oil and crankcase unless the oil temp hits boiling (212* at sea level, closer to 200* here in Denver). Then the water turns to steam and cooks out of the oil. So I would be blocking the oil cooler at temps under 60*. Now that I've thought thru this, I'll try running the blocked cooler at higher temps, just to keep the oil warmed up.

It's 3-7/8" wide, 9-5/8" tall, not including the tab on top. Next time I'll be more cool and turn it around so you guys can't see what I eat for breakfast.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:29 PM   #72735
stoney4vida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Red silicone. There's a how to HERE
Thanks for the link
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