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Old 01-10-2013, 07:44 PM   #72721
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoney4vida View Post
What would be the best adhesive for mounting case armor to my DR ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
silicon
Red silicone. There's a how to HERE
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #72722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Huh...! I have always removed the airbox. Never considered that the shock might come out the side...
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
BergDonk, thanks. Good to know. Just took mine off via the airbox removal route. It's now at Cogent. Good to know there's another way to do it. May be usefull if a field repair is ever needed.
Recollecting further, it might also require the removal of the link from the frame. If I'm pulling the shock I always service the bearings and it comes off anyway, so not absolutely sure if it needs to come off, but its only one extra bolt if it does.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:00 PM   #72723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Recollecting further, it might also require the removal of the link from the frame. If I'm pulling the shock I always service the bearings and it comes off anyway, so not absolutely sure if it needs to come off, but its only one extra bolt if it does.
That's the hardest bolt. If you're going to remove the link from the frame it's easier to take the shock out the bottom.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:08 PM   #72724
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+1 Have done that several times.

TravelGuy


Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That's the hardest bolt. If you're going to remove the link from the frame it's easier to take the shock out the bottom.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:12 PM   #72725
pzs
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Mixture screw, pilot jet question advice needed

If bike runs best with mixture screw all the way in, is the pilot jet too lean??......powerbomb header, gsx can, opened airbox, Dyno jet kit fitted.

Bike runs well, but it has a very slight hesitation just off idle, and possible very slight surging at very light throttle position.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:24 PM   #72726
13.1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzs View Post
If bike runs best with mixture screw all the way in, is the pilot jet too lean??......powerbomb header, gsx can, opened airbox, Dyno jet kit fitted.

Bike runs well, but it has a very slight hesitation just off idle, and possible very slight surging at very light throttle position.
turning in the mixture screw leans it out at the idle and lower rpms

so, this means the bike is too rich in this area

pull the pilot jet and slip the next size smaller in.
then try adjusting the mixture screw again.

of course, you may even have to go down another size if needed


......of course, with the air spinning the other way as it does down under where you are, I may just have all of this BACKWARDS.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:27 PM   #72727
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Ok, since I'm cheap......... how about if we use your oil temp gauge? Maybe next time you go out you could note the air temp. and tell us how long it takes your oil to get to 200*? That would give me a ball park idea about my warm up time and blocking the oil cooler off as well.

Thanks........shu
A few days ago the conversation was about getting the DR up to operating temps in cooler weather. I got a break in the schedule and a 50* plus day and got these numbers.

Air temp was 52-54*, digital thermo on the handlebars.

For the first 65 miles I had the oil cooler closed off with a piece of cardboard, that thin 2 ply cereal box stuff. Who cares? It was the perfect thickness for sliding behind the mounting screws, no zip ties needed. In answer to an earlier question: This put the cardboard snug to the fins and pretty much stopped all airflow thru the cooler. I'd be completely comfortable with the air flow completely blocked up to 60* ambient, especially running full synthetic. Kommando has said the oil cooler is redundant in any sane riding temps.

Oil temp ran between 205-215 degrees with the usual 10-20* increase when hitting consecutive stop lights. But almost all of the mileage was non-stop county roads 20-55mph.

At 65 miles it occurred to me that without removing the cardboard, I'd have no useful information. So I rode the last 40 miles, cardboard out. Same roads, temps 175-195* and the same 10-20* increase when forced to stop repeatedly.

205 warning:
It's my belief that condensation doesn't burn out of the oil and crankcase unless the oil temp hits boiling (212* at sea level, closer to 200* here in Denver). Then the water turns to steam and cooks out of the oil. So I would be blocking the oil cooler at temps under 60*. Now that I've thought thru this, I'll try running the blocked cooler at higher temps, just to keep the oil warmed up.

It's 3-7/8" wide, 9-5/8" tall, not including the tab on top. Next time I'll be more cool and turn it around so you guys can't see what I eat for breakfast.

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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:29 PM   #72728
stoney4vida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Red silicone. There's a how to HERE
Thanks for the link
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:34 PM   #72729
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pzs View Post
If bike runs best with mixture screw all the way in, is the pilot jet too lean??......powerbomb header, gsx can, opened airbox, Dyno jet kit fitted.

Bike runs well, but it has a very slight hesitation just off idle, and possible very slight surging at very light throttle position.
Do you have an aftermarket mixture screw?

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You have a different idle mixture screw. The one pictured a few posts back is the "Kouba" screw which was originally a Keintech product. It has about 2 or 3 additional screw threads which sometimes have difficulty screwing into the 'unused' internal threads in the carburetor. The screw included in the jet kit is a genuine Mikuni part which has a longer shaft which eliminates the occasional problem with the 'virgin threads'. But it does require the longer spring that comes with it.
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:49 AM   #72730
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I got the kienetic screw, I have a look ad see if there is anymore adj, I doubt it though, it seems to have seated firmly.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:11 AM   #72731
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
It's 3-7/8" wide, 9-5/8" tall, not including the tab on top. Next time I'll be more cool and turn it around so you guys can't see what I eat for breakfast.


You know...some times it is the simple things that make me think "well, shit-that is way easier!". I would have had the mill and welder going trying to make a metal, closable, finned, oil/air deflector model # 2000... or just use a piece of cardboard.

I enjoyed the write up. Good information! Most people understand that oil can get too hot. Many don't realize that it can be too cold as well to perform as it should.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:14 AM   #72732
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Huh...! I have always removed the airbox. Never considered that the shock might come out the side...
I remember getting the shock out was easy, but I haven't done it in a long while and would probably confuse it with the KTM which was out more recently, but I am positive that I did it without having to remove the airbox, just can't remember the steps. Gettin' old.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:41 AM   #72733
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I enjoyed the write up. Good information! Most people understand that oil can get too hot. Many don't realize that it can be too cold as well to perform as it should.
Hey Mongle ... I'm sure this has been covered a bunch ... but what are ideal oil temps for a bike like our DR650's? I always thought oil temps up around
180F was about right. My old BMW had an oil temp gauge and in Desert heat (over 100F) oil temps would go to 220 ... which I thought was too hot. In temps between about 65F to 85F oil temp stayed around 180F on that old BMW. (it had an oil cooler ... but very tiny)
What do you think? At what point do you add in a card board piece to warm things up? ... And should it be kept in place even after bike is fully warm or just for the first half hour? Cheers!
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #72734
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I offered $2,500 cash today... he is stuck at $3,000. Here is the Craigs List link to see pic.
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/3489277336.html

I would put a center stand, skid plate and windshield on it right away. How much of an improvement are the performance mods he has listed? Thanks!!!
Thanks guys for the feedback on this DR650 value... he is at $3k bottom dollar. I cant see paying more than $2,500 considering I still have another $700 or so in mods to put into it.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:49 PM   #72735
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

Air temp was 52-54*, digital thermo on the handlebars.


Oil temp ran between 205-215 degrees with the usual 10-20* increase when hitting consecutive stop lights. But almost all of the mileage was non-stop county roads 20-55mph.

At 65 miles it occurred to me that without removing the cardboard, I'd have no useful information. So I rode the last 40 miles, cardboard out. Same roads, temps 175-195* and the same 10-20* increase when forced to stop repeatedly.

205 warning:
It's my belief that condensation doesn't burn out of the oil and crankcase unless the oil temp hits boiling (212* at sea level, closer to 200* here in Denver). Then the water turns to steam and cooks out of the oil. So I would be blocking the oil cooler at temps under 60*. Now that I've thought thru this, I'll try running the blocked cooler at higher temps, just to keep the oil warmed up.


Now this is great info. Thanks for that, ER.

That oil cooler really is pretty effective. If I understand your numbers correctly it can drop the oil temp by 30* F or more. I agree with your judgement and I will be keeping my cardboard block on at all temperatures below the low 50's. I think I'll move the cardboard to directly in front of the cooler as you did, instead of on the outside of the guard where I've had mine.

I'm not sure about having to heat all of the oil to 200* to boil the water out . Since it's getting sprayed and churned against some very hot parts of the motor I think it may evaporate before the oil temperature goes that high.

Thanks again.............shu

(I'll buy you a cup of coffee one of these days.)
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