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Old 01-14-2013, 01:36 PM   #72856
skysailor
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Anybody know the torque settings for head bolts on an 02? Must buy book.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #72857
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
690 doesn't cost anymore to maintain then a DR. Does cost more to begin with, but you do get a lot more for that money as well.
I had a new KTM 640 in 2002 and I don't see any difference in simple maintenance cost between that and my DR650's. I do all my own work but an oil change is the same the valves are super easy on both of them, changing tires is the same, reliability was the same- nothing broke on either of them. Sprockets and chain, air filters, even aftermarket springs are the same. Most of the concern for long time costs never occur for most riders as they sell the bike and buy another before anything breaks. I did have a 950 that I had to replace the water pump on but the greater problem was obtaining parts and not that the parts were so much more expensive. Even if they were say 20% more if it only happens once how do you ultimately know it costs more to own a KTM 950 than a Suzuki Vstrom which I did also own. Besides that ownership costs are spread out so far as to be meaningless since owning a motorcycle is in itself much more expensive than a car, even though the gas is usually cheaper. My wife and I both had DR650's for a few years and it cost me more for us to go on a bike trip than taking our car to the same trip. Two bikes at 50 mpg equals one car at 25 mpg not to mention tires and oil changes etc. The overall cost of riding and owning motorcycles is far greater than the minuscule difference in maintenance costs of owning a European bike over a bike from Japan.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:43 PM   #72858
CDHMotorsports
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Hot Start Problem ??????????

Hey guys, I just got my 01 DR650 about 12 weeks aga and everything is great with it except on a couple of rides we have stopped for a few minutes and the bike wont start. I can roll it off and it will pop-start though. any ideas? Thanks
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:59 PM   #72859
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
Hey guys, I just got my 01 DR650 about 12 weeks aga and everything is great with it except on a couple of rides we have stopped for a few minutes and the bike wont start. I can roll it off and it will pop-start though. any ideas? Thanks
You'll have to give us some more info. Cranks fine but won't start? Cranks slow? Button does nothing? Backfires?
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:15 PM   #72860
godaddygo
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Stock head light questions

This a quote from the "Short way around the world"
http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

Wondering if anyone has given this a try?

Headlight Not riding at night is one of the golden rules of overland travel by motorcycle and I avoid it most of the time. There have been occasions though where I’ve been caught out and where I would really have benefitted from better lighting. However, as these times are few and far between I didn’t want to spend any money on expensive additional/replacement lights. The solution (though I’ll have to wait to prove it) seems to have come simply and cheaply in the form of a simple relay circuit and a better bulb. The theory: The stock headlight circuit uses small gauge wire connected through the switch to supply the headlight. This modification uses the OEM wiring to switch one of two relays (1 High beam, 1 Low) which in turn connect the headlight direct to the battery via larger gauge wires and an inline fuse. This system reduces the voltage drop to 0.1v; a drop of 1.0v can equate to a 25% reduction in the headlights ‘output. I also added a Phillips X-Treme headlight bulb of the OEM rating 60/55w.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:40 PM   #72861
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I disagree. Although nothing can really be proved definitively YET ... I feel that the Euro goes further in China and better quality will be the result. If the basic design is sound then with precise manufacture and top quality components it's a Win Win for BMW (and Husky) After all ... BMW make cars in China too.

What's been hurting BMW the last 10 years or so has been some dodgy Eastern European parts suppliers ... and some slip shod QA (quality assurance) in Berlin. Even former BMW designer David Robb admitted to this.


Based on some experience with the DR I feel it may not be the top end that will be in need of service. If the gear box lets go ... well

But I'm sure a fresh top end couldn't hurt if you tend to over rev and hold the bike at high RPM's for long periods. Mine's at 50K now ... still good compression, no oil use and good power!
Look after the oil, valve adjustments and filters and it may surprise you.

The problem with manufacturing in China is being able to stay on top of them. They love to start subbing unapproved materials any chance they get to save a few pennies.

I am pretty religious on maintenance on my bikes, but I also ride the piss out of them
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:49 PM   #72862
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
This a quote from the "Short way around the world"
http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

Wondering if anyone has given this a try?

Headlight Not riding at night is one of the golden rules of overland travel by motorcycle and I avoid it most of the time. There have been occasions though where I’ve been caught out and where I would really have benefitted from better lighting. However, as these times are few and far between I didn’t want to spend any money on expensive additional/replacement lights. The solution (though I’ll have to wait to prove it) seems to have come simply and cheaply in the form of a simple relay circuit and a better bulb. The theory: The stock headlight circuit uses small gauge wire connected through the switch to supply the headlight. This modification uses the OEM wiring to switch one of two relays (1 High beam, 1 Low) which in turn connect the headlight direct to the battery via larger gauge wires and an inline fuse. This system reduces the voltage drop to 0.1v; a drop of 1.0v can equate to a 25% reduction in the headlights ‘output. I also added a Phillips X-Treme headlight bulb of the OEM rating 60/55w.
Standard upgrade for me:



http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=379

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=381

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=383
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:02 PM   #72863
DockingPilot
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The suspension on my F800 was utter garbage. The forks being the worst. Both shock and fork internals were thrown in the trash. Had to spend some bucks to replace them with decent suspenders it should have come with. No chain guide either was a clue to the cost cutting by BMW. I can tell you the DR suspension as low end as it is, is still better then the stock F800. And the top shock mount on the F8 is another eye opener.
Ill keep the DR myself.
The GSA is all together different. Better build quality and components then the smaller cousin.
This is just my opinion though but I have owned them all.


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DockingPilot screwed with this post 01-15-2013 at 04:54 AM
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:41 PM   #72864
CDHMotorsports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
Hey guys, I just got my 01 DR650 about 12 weeks aga and everything is great with it except on a couple of rides we have stopped for a few minutes and the bike wont start. I can roll it off and it will pop-start though. any ideas? Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You'll have to give us some more info. Cranks fine but won't start? Cranks slow? Button does nothing? Backfires?

it cranks, but doesnt fire. it will not start unless you let it sit for a while and or, pop start it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:03 PM   #72865
RichBeBe
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Location: NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
This a quote from the "Short way around the world"
http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

Wondering if anyone has given this a try?

Headlight Not riding at night is one of the golden rules of overland travel by motorcycle and I avoid it most of the time. There have been occasions though where I’ve been caught out and where I would really have benefitted from better lighting. However, as these times are few and far between I didn’t want to spend any money on expensive additional/replacement lights. The solution (though I’ll have to wait to prove it) seems to have come simply and cheaply in the form of a simple relay circuit and a better bulb. The theory: The stock headlight circuit uses small gauge wire connected through the switch to supply the headlight. This modification uses the OEM wiring to switch one of two relays (1 High beam, 1 Low) which in turn connect the headlight direct to the battery via larger gauge wires and an inline fuse. This system reduces the voltage drop to 0.1v; a drop of 1.0v can equate to a 25% reduction in the headlights ‘output. I also added a Phillips X-Treme headlight bulb of the OEM rating 60/55w.
I had a short in my wire harness, and instead of fixing it I ran this setup and the lights are much brighter.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:29 AM   #72866
Tyrepower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
it cranks, but doesnt fire. it will not start unless you let it sit for a while and or, pop start it.
Battery could be on the way out. Get it looked at by someone that knows how to test them. Or try a battery from a friends bike. Same thing happened to a mates bike. We went through everything including the stator and stuff connected to that. And it turned out to be the battery had enough power to crank but not enough to fire.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:28 AM   #72867
thetable
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Location: Western Loudoun Co, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
This a quote from the "Short way around the world"
http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

Wondering if anyone has given this a try?

Headlight Not riding at night is one of the golden rules of overland travel by motorcycle and I avoid it most of the time. There have been occasions though where I’ve been caught out and where I would really have benefitted from better lighting. However, as these times are few and far between I didn’t want to spend any money on expensive additional/replacement lights. The solution (though I’ll have to wait to prove it) seems to have come simply and cheaply in the form of a simple relay circuit and a better bulb. The theory: The stock headlight circuit uses small gauge wire connected through the switch to supply the headlight. This modification uses the OEM wiring to switch one of two relays (1 High beam, 1 Low) which in turn connect the headlight direct to the battery via larger gauge wires and an inline fuse. This system reduces the voltage drop to 0.1v; a drop of 1.0v can equate to a 25% reduction in the headlights ‘output. I also added a Phillips X-Treme headlight bulb of the OEM rating 60/55w.
Sounds like it would be a good place to start. I know on my DR, the high beam indicator puts out more light than the high beam itself. I'd also replace the headlight connector itself to a higher grade unit, as I have seen issues in other Suzuki's that I've owned. More food for thought: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:33 AM   #72868
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
it cranks, but doesnt fire. it will not start unless you let it sit for a while and or, pop start it.
Try laying the bike on it's side for 10 seconds, pick it up and see if it starts. If so, I suspect it is the float assy o-rings. That was my trouble twice in 7 years of owning mine. (so far)

parts 15 & 16:

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/CARBURETOR
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:40 AM   #72869
Anklyne
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Wicked

Finally got a mid-pipe so I could do the GSXR can mod. Using a x40f1x (Aussie x40f0x) and a mid-pipe made by a bloke over in QLD (AU$175 + shipping - much cheaper for me than the other pre-fabbed options). It's not as smooth of a bend and such as the other options, but considering I haven't done any mods to the intake and probably won't do more than remove the snorkel (yes, the snorkel is still in there atm), it's not going to be an issue

Just have a quick prototype/unfinished bracket currently because I was eager to mount it all up and test it out. I need to do some tweaking of fasteners to make sure it's all honky-dory, but from the quick ride I did earlier tonight, it's going great.

Previously the bike seemed to labour when giving it throttle while cruising, which I had just put down to the BST carb. I need to do some more riding to make sure (), but I'm pretty sure that is now gone with the new exhaust.

Anyway, some photos:


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Old 01-15-2013, 07:44 AM   #72870
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anklyne View Post
Finally got a mid-pipe so I could do the GSXR can mod. Using a x40f1x (Aussie x40f0x) and a mid-pipe made by a bloke over in QLD (AU$175 + shipping - much cheaper for me than the other pre-fabbed options). It's not as smooth of a bend and such as the other options, but considering I haven't done any mods to the intake and probably won't do more than remove the snorkel (yes, the snorkel is still in there atm), it's not going to be an issue

Just have a quick prototype/unfinished bracket currently because I was eager to mount it all up and test it out. I need to do some tweaking of fasteners to make sure it's all honky-dory, but from the quick ride I did earlier tonight, it's going great.

Previously the bike seemed to labour when giving it throttle while cruising, which I had just put down to the BST carb. I need to do some more riding to make sure (), but I'm pretty sure that is now gone with the new exhaust.

That pipe looks great!! I don't see any problem with it over the expensive pre-fabbed options!!

Rob
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