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Old 01-18-2013, 10:37 PM   #72991
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
As a professional web programmer, I have to admit I'm rather fond of the ProCycle website. There's very little I dislike about it.
Thanks Rob, I consider that high praise coming from a web pro. I try as much as is practical to avoid the things that drive me crazy about other sites. We'll stick to the 'all on one page' format as long as we can. At some point it will get too complicated but that's probably a long way down the road.

I'd love to be listing more stuff for the KLX. At this point we don't have anyone on staff that owns one. I've found it takes having one of the crew owning and riding a particular model to be able to jump in with both feet and work up a complete offering. Yeah, another thing on my 'some day we're going to do that' list.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:49 PM   #72992
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I'd love to be listing more stuff for the KLX. At this point we don't have anyone on staff that owns one. I've found it takes having one of the crew owning and riding a particular model to be able to jump in with both feet and work up a complete offering.
Sweet, common sense.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:51 PM   #72993
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
I used these pieces and it worked great.

18inch long piece of black 3/4inch I.D. pipe threaded on both ends

4inch long piece of black 3/4inch I.D. pipe threaded on both ends

1 90 degree elbow

A threaded brass cap 1 1/8inch flat to flat. Which looks like this:

http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/produ.../c74-147-1.jpg
That solution will work for sure ... but I might suggest trying the lazy cheapskate's trail side method:
stabilize fork on bench or whatever (or have a helper hold it)
insert correct hex/allen key into damper rod bolt at bottom of fork .
Have someone hold Allen in place ... now Whack it with a hammer! (counter clock please!) Do NOT hit your helper with hammer!
The sudden shock can usually break loose the Damper rod bolt from the damper rod ... without it being held from the inside. Worth a try.

If not ... try the above tool. Also, an air wrench can also work on this same principle. I've done the lazy man's method three times on my DR with success. TIP: when you put it back together do not OVER tighten bolt into damper rod and don't use Loc-Tite.

NOTE: This may not work for KYB forks built on Tuesday by that grouchy guy who over torques everything that passes by. My forks were built by a cute 17 year old girl on a Friday. Gentle hands!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 01-18-2013 at 11:15 PM
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:23 PM   #72994
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There was a question about removing the idle fuel screw plug over on DRRIDERS.com. I posted a link to Jessepitt's photo essay on the procedure: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71
A couple of points to mention:

1) It is likely that the drill will pull itself into the fuel screw when it breaks through the far side of the plug. The result can be just a little nick, mostly ruining the head, or somewhere inbetween. The way to avoid this is to use a drill stop, which, when properly set, will prevent the drill from going any further when it breaks through.

2) I've seen quite a few cracked/broken fuel screw wells. These are the result of the plug cocking as it is being pulled out. The way to avoid this is to tap the hole (I use a M4X.7 tap, which takes a 3.3mm or #30 drill). Grind the point off of the tap (if it has one) for clearance with the head of the fuel screw. Tap only deep enough to get through the plug. Then use a metal tube with squared ends and an ID just larger than the OD of the plug in conjunction with a screw and a washer with the same or larger OD than the tube as a puller to extract the plug. This way it is guaranteed to come out squarely.

3) Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:50 PM   #72995
LeDakaR!
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Got back from Death valley on my DR and loved my wolfman/ramount/teknic/kolpin gear...
if any of you fellow riders want anything let me know...ill hook you up!

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Old 01-19-2013, 12:00 AM   #72996
zoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
Got back from Death valley on my DR and loved my wolfman/ramount/teknic/kolpin gear...
if any of you fellow riders want anything let me know...ill hook you up!


How about more pictures?
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:19 AM   #72997
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
There are 2 reasons why you don't see grips on the DR page. First, I like to keep the number of 'general' items that folks can usually get at any shop to a minimum - especially on the pages that are so filled out like the DR page. Second, for most folks replacing grips on the DR for the first time can become a nightmare of a job.

Some day we'll have some separate pages for our favorite general items.
I want the ProGrip foam rally grips.

No-one has them
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:18 AM   #72998
greer
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Shipping may cost a war pension, but Amazon and Phat Performance show them in stock.

Sarah
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:20 AM   #72999
Mambo Dave
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Re: grips...

I may have to replace mine eventually when I change bars, but I'm certainly not going for foam grips (that nobody has) when this 'solution' has worked for me on two bikes and many miles so far:





Tightly wound in a spiral, these cushion and leave no noticeable pressure points that had my hands tingling after many miles with traditional grips.

And, they're wider than most grips - I don't even have big hands, but I find this far more comfortable.

Yeah, yeah, I wish I had some other color rope to change it... sorta... but it's what I had on hand from the limited choices Home Depot had that day. (Of course within days they had most colors available again.)

If even only as a stop-gap until you can find foam grips, I think if its comfort you're looking for, you might try this out.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:01 AM   #73000
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There was a question about removing the idle fuel screw plug over on DRRIDERS.com. I posted a link to Jessepitt's photo essay on the procedure: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71

I got this response, thanks Jesse.

Jessepitt should do a manual for us rookies. These photos are fantastic!!!!
This is the definitive answer to "THE CAP OVER THE STOCK NEEDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW."
Even I can do this now!!!
If you don't understand this. You might seriously consider taking the bike to a shop or have someone show you.

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Old 01-19-2013, 08:05 AM   #73001
DockingPilot
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Fellas,
Can the carb inlet tube on the stock BST be rotated ?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:15 AM   #73002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I've probably read your suspension rebuild articles a hundred times each, since those are the upgrades I'm likely to do in the near future. Very, very well written.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:17 AM   #73003
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
A couple of points to mention:

1) It is likely that the drill will pull itself into the fuel screw when it breaks through the far side of the plug. The result can be just a little nick, mostly ruining the head, or somewhere inbetween. The way to avoid this is to use a drill stop, which, when properly set, will prevent the drill from going any further when it breaks through.

2) I've seen quite a few cracked/broken fuel screw wells. These are the result of the plug cocking as it is being pulled out. The way to avoid this is to tap the hole (I use a M4X.7 tap, which takes a 3.3mm or #30 drill). Grind the point off of the tap (if it has one) for clearance with the head of the fuel screw. Tap only deep enough to get through the plug. Then use a metal tube with squared ends and an ID just larger than the OD of the plug in conjunction with a screw and a washer with the same or larger OD than the tube as a puller to extract the plug. This way it is guaranteed to come out squarely.

3) Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring.

Regards,

Derek
If you look at the write up you will see that I use a drill bit with an old, dull counter-sink collar on it for grip and drill it by hand. There is really no way to loose control and damage the screw. I dont even drill all the way through the plug. The plug has a tiny hole already drilled in it which acts as a pilot for the drill bit but also allows a small fine thread screw to be turned a couple threads in if you leave a little bit of the cap when you drill.

Prehaps I should remove a small amount of the spring in order to counter the increased preload?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:26 AM   #73004
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Fellas,
Can the carb inlet tube on the stock BST be rotated ?

Carefully, yes. You want to be sure and have a good bite on the tube or it can bend. When I had a stock carb I believe I used a large adjustable wrench on the tube and once it "cracked", I was able to rotate it without harm.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:48 AM   #73005
Porky
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Re: grips...

I may have to replace mine eventually when I change bars, but I'm certainly not going for foam grips (that nobody has) when this 'solution' has worked for me on two bikes and many miles so far:





Tightly wound in a spiral, these cushion and leave no noticeable pressure points that had my hands tingling after many miles with traditional grips.

And, they're wider than most grips - I don't even have big hands, but I find this far more comfortable.

Yeah, yeah, I wish I had some other color rope to change it... sorta... but it's what I had on hand from the limited choices Home Depot had that day. (Of course within days they had most colors available again.)

If even only as a stop-gap until you can find foam grips, I think if its comfort you're looking for, you might try this out.


GREAT IDEA

Have been thinking about thicker grips but want to retain my Cramp Buster. Your idea will enable me to keep my Buster.
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