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Old 01-18-2013, 02:20 PM   #72991
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robndeb View Post
Also, learning how to, and doing the work yourself guarantees that it
is done right. I don't trust anyone to work on my DR.
I don't let ANYONE work on ANY of my bikes........EVER
It almost impossible to find anyboby that can do ANY work properly anymore.....the art of knowing you're job and having pride in it has died in america
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #72992
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Thanks, Jeff!!

Edit: What's the poor-man's version of the damping rod holder tool?

Rob
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:29 PM   #72993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robndeb View Post
Also, learning how to, and doing the work yourself guarantees that it
is done right. I don't trust anyone to work on my DR.
This is only true if the person doing their own work actually knows what they are doing. Which is not all that common.

Not to put any disrespect on the original poster but he seems to want to leave the half trashed rod in the motor.
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #72994
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Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
two questions. i have 32k miles on the '06 DR, she's due for some carb work. stock needle jet is Y-5M but it's also $40 and i dont wanna spend $40 on a frickin needle jet unless it's made of unobtainium.
You can get one for less than that.
Quote:
also need a float needle and they're only sold with the float "assembly" whatever the hell that means.
You can get one as part of a rebuild kit.
Quote:
i'm running the KTM needle so i'm willing to give the X-6 needle jet a try, i suppose.
The X-6 emulsion tube's outlet will be .055 mm (.0022") smaller than the Y-5M's. If the WOT CO trace showed an overly rich mixture in the low to low mid rpm range with fresh components, then perhaps a smaller emulsion tube would be a good idea, but keep in mind that a change of .055 mm is pretty large. Also note that the Y-5M emulsion tube, being nickel plated, will be much more resistant to wear than the X-6.

Since emulsion tube wear is caused by slide guide wear, I would recommend replacing the slide guide. I would expect it to be worn out just based on the mileage. Also inspect the slide for needle hole enlargement/ovaling and grooving on the downstream side.
Quote:
needle jet and float valve needle and a source.
Have a look at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:34 PM   #72995
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
This is only true if the person doing their own work actually knows what they are doing. Which is not all that common.
But at least when we stuff up, we know who to blame, and we've learn't how to get it right next time, one way or another, if it wasn't fatal.

I rarely get anyone to work on any of my stuff, and on the odd occasion I do, its stuffed up 4/5 times anyway and I wonder what I was thinking. And that's not just machinery.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:18 PM   #72996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Edit: What's the poor-man's version of the damping rod holder tool?
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=36300

Check the link to Distech's write up for the bolt tool but I think others here posted a 1" square tube will also hold it.

Jeff - you and Distech pulled the tubes apart. My memory is slippin' but I don't think I pulled the tubes since none of my seals were acting up. I think I did the factory lowering on my son's bike without pulling them, too.

Am I remembering incorrectly - can you pull the damper rod without removing the seals & separating the tubes?
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:28 PM   #72997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Am I remembering incorrectly - can you pull the damper rod without removing the seals & separating the tubes?

Yes, damper rods can be removed without separating the tubes.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:38 PM   #72998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I don't let ANYONE work on ANY of my bikes........EVER
It almost impossible to find anyboby that can do ANY work properly anymore.....the art of knowing you're job and having pride in it has died in america
I do believe I have to agree completely on that one. The 18 year old kid that works the parts counter and also puts in time back in the shop is not going to care about my bike. Last time a bike of mine saw the inside of a shop, 1984, it came back with a couple of big scratches and they told me nothing was wrong with the motor. A couple of weeks later when I pulled the head and cylinders because I knew something wasn't right I found the piston pin clip missing and the pin had been gouging the cylinder wall. They didn't do it but they told me it ran like it was supposed to when I told them it was making a noise and down on power....
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:57 PM   #72999
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Hey... I can't seem to find the threads for the Index; sure wish they were stickied at the top of Thumpers. I was wondering where there might be some write-ups on Gold Valve installation. My Fork Solution kit from ProCycle arrived yesterday and I was just looking at the instructions and thought, yeah, I need a write-up. :) I thought there was supposed to be a video, but there wasn't one in the package.

Local shop wants $275 to install them (HAHAHAHAHA) so I definitely will be doing this myself.

Thanks!

Rob
FYI, I got the fork solution kit and rear shock shaft assembly. I called a couple places in town just to ask about recharging the shock and was given the name of a guy that works out of his house. I called him to ask about recharging the shock and after talking to him about his experience, and based on what three shops in town said, I let him do the work. He charged $150 to do the front and rear (front fork solution kit and rear shock shaft assembly). It would have been $100 if I pulled the forks and rear shock and brought those to him, but I figured if I went that far I'd do the whole job, so I dropped the bike off at his house and should have the bike back Sunday.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:13 PM   #73000
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
Yes, damper rods can be removed without separating the tubes.
+1
Yes, indeed.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:33 PM   #73001
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While we are talking about heads and valves and pistons, I have a question for the collective wisdom of the group. My '96 DR has 27,000 miles on it. As I was wrapping up a 3 month 8K mile ride this summer, it started smoking on start up after sitting overnight. It will smoke for a few minutes, then the smoke goes away. Blue smoke, definitely oil smoke. It only does it after sitting overnight, if I restart it after fueling or stopping for a few minutes, there's no smoke. It's not using oil that I have noticed and runs normal, not down on power at all. My thoughts are rings or valve seals. I was considering buying the high compression piston kit and new valve seals and redoing the top end anyhow before this started. Am I on the right track? Should I just leave it alone and continue to ride it and save the kit for later?


Tim
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #73002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I don't let ANYONE work on ANY of my bikes........EVER
It almost impossible to find anybody that can do ANY work properly anymore.....the art of knowing you're job and having pride in it has died in america
Which is why I wont buy another KTM. Not that I didn't do the work myself, like you said and especially so on the 950, don't let anyone else touch it, it's just that I can't be bothered anymore. Been there done that already.
What the DR lacks in modern components, it makes up for in ease of ownership and that works for me.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:02 PM   #73003
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Just a tad over 100 pounds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
Bathroom scale said 107.5lbs (with oil)

thunder stealer
But now we know a 'tad' weighs 7.5lbs

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Good link. How'd I miss that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Hey... I can't seem to find the threads for the Index; sure wish they were stickied at the top of Thumpers. Rob
It's right where you thought it should be.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-18-2013 at 06:51 PM Reason: #2222 :-)
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:13 PM   #73004
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
FYI, I got the fork solution kit and rear shock shaft assembly. I called a couple places in town just to ask about recharging the shock and was given the name of a guy that works out of his house. I called him to ask about recharging the shock and after talking to him about his experience, and based on what three shops in town said, I let him do the work. He charged $150 to do the front and rear (front fork solution kit and rear shock shaft assembly). It would have been $100 if I pulled the forks and rear shock and brought those to him, but I figured if I went that far I'd do the whole job, so I dropped the bike off at his house and should have the bike back Sunday.
That sounds like a fair deal to me, if the job comes back done right!
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:14 PM   #73005
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Good link. How'd I miss that?
The "info" side of the ProCycle web site is easily overlooked. Someday we'll come up with a more inviting navigation.
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