the DR650 thread

[motolab]

Originally Posted by jessepitt

If you look at the write up you will see that I use a drill bit with an old, dull counter-sink collar on it for grip and drill it by hand. There is really no way to loose control and damage the screw.

Sounds time consuming, but safe.

I dont even drill all the way through the plug. The plug has a tiny hole already drilled in it which acts as a pilot for the drill bit but also allows a small fine thread screw to be turned a couple threads in if you leave a little bit of the cap when you drill.

Not drilling all the way through the plug precludes being able to tap the hole, which precludes being able to use a small puller, which opens up the possibility of cocking the plug on the way out, which opens up the possibility of cracking/breaking the fuel screw well.

Prehaps I should remove a small amount of the spring in order to counter the increased preload?

If you knew that there were benefits to be had from increasing the spring rate, then clipping the spring would be a viable option. If not, you could modify the spring seat on either end of the spring in order to reduce the preload back to normal. The bottom one would be easiest, but the top one could be modified to simultaneously allow the slide to open all the way (as it is, it tops out ~.060" or so short).

Regards,

Derek

[jessepitt]

Originally Posted by motolab

If you knew that there were benefits to be had from increasing the spring rate, then clipping the spring would be a viable option. If not, you could modify the spring seat on either end of the spring in order to reduce the preload back to normal. The bottom one would be easiest, but the top one could be modified to simultaneously allow the slide to open all the way (as it is, it tops out ~.060" or so short).

Regards,

Derek

Thanks for that. I will have a look at modifying the spring seat rather than the spring length. It make sense that clipping the spring would up the rate just like a fork spring. Will the increased spring tension caused by the needle shim cause a more sluggish throttle response?

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by motolab

He can speak for himself.

If, however, you yourself are saying that none of you (who?) are aware of anyone who has used the stock needle with a modified airbox and achieved optimum results, I agree that with the USA needle, the possibility is slim (no need to shout BTW). If you are asserting that no one has used the non-USA stock needle with a modified airbox and achieved optimum results, then that's either because no one has tried, because whoever did try doesn't know how to tune, or because there is a better needle profile yet.Sure, let's!

The point I have been trying to make is that, based on the chart I have posted several times now, the results when using the DJ needle can hardly be called optimal, and that experience with many different needle profiles (including many of my own) on many different motorcycles has shown me that a profile such as the DJ needle has is likely to produce a wonky CO trace such as the DJ needle does in fact in practice produce. The same experience has shown me that a shape more like the non-USA adjustable needle has will in fact flatten the CO trace vs. what a needle with a shape like the DJ produces. I suppose there is always the possibility of an anomaly, but I can't see how the non-USA adjustable needle would not be an improvement over the DJ.I think that depends on the definition of the phrase "familiar with the practice of how to tune". I'm not saying that to be rude. It's just that there are different levels of experience and different levels of tuning (some of which are equipment-dependent). Unfortunately there's no way around that.

Regards,

Derek

So...Are you saying to try a non-USA (adjustable) stock needle, an open airbox, an adjustable idle-mix screw, a 150 Mikuni main jet, and a x40F0x muff with a smoothed header, at sea-level? Should the pilot jet remain stock or go a size bigger?

I'm planning to buy a brand-new DR, maybe this year. I'm willing to experiment before cutting the airbox (permanent), drilling the slide (semi-permanent), or wearing any carb components to questionable condition.

[sandwash]

Originally Posted by victor441

Gran Turismo grips are a good option, have been around at least 40 years...they are tapered and soft in the middle, very comfortable for long rides and not too slippery...vintage British bike parts suppliers often carry them

Well that was easy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANDLEBAR-GR...sories&vxp=mtr

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by sin3kal

Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles.

Can it be welded, machined smooth, and then heated to relieve molecular tension?

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by sandwash

Well that was easy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANDLEBAR-GR...sories&vxp=mtr

Those are 'replica' grips. Does the original maker still make them?

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by Tech23

Same here, if Suzuki were to make any changes I would rather see it receive better, fully adjustable suspension components.

Tech23

Wide-ratio 6spd and HD stator output would be cool. I don't think the current DR really needs much that the current aftermarket can't already deliver nicely. The DR-Z400 suspension could be grafted on easily and inexpensively, but could they retain the height-adjustment feature? A windscreen, luggage, 10WHP, comfy seat, knobs, skid, handguards, or huge plastic tank are also easy to add.

Let's hope that Suzuki keeps producing a good base to build from...inexpensively.

[rpet]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I want the ProGrip foam rally grips.

No-one has them

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grip-Foam-.../dp/B0036GNRIC
(just a USA google, havent actually bought them)

[procycle]

Originally Posted by jessepitt

I will have a look at modifying the spring seat rather than the spring length.

The slide spring can be easily shortened without cutting.

Slip the spring on to a 5/16" shaft or dowel (a #3 Philips screwdriver works well). Compress the spring fully and 'unwind' it a few turns. Naturally you want to measure very accurately before and after. If you go too far you can carefully stretch it back and start over.

[rpet]

Alert: Tire Talk!

I'm getting an 18" rear rim. What are the largest tires that will fit in there on an 18? Knobbies in particular - wondering if D606 130 will fit, etc.

Also wondering if anyone has run the Maxxis Desert-IT as a dual sport tire and results?

thanks!

[Rob.G]

My favorite grips are the ProGrip 719's. They're cheap ($15), gel-style, and are comfy. I have them on all three bikes. In fact, I need to replace the ones on my DR650... they've been on there for two years and are starting to wear out. :)

I have to run to Portland this morning for some RV parts, but while I'm out, I'm going to hit Home Depot or someplace for the pieces to make my Damper Rod Holding Tool and spacers. When I get home, the fork tubes are coming off of the DR and coming apart! Wish me luck! (I'll need it) :)

Freakin' 29F here in Salem, but I'm riding up there anyway (on my FZ1). Thank God for heated gear!

Rob

[LeDakaR!]

Originally Posted by zoid

How about more pictures?

rr in daytripping, check it out...

if any fellow DR riders want anything, let me know

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by rpet

Alert: Tire Talk!

I'm getting an 18" rear rim. What are the largest tires that will fit i

Are you getting a 2.15 width, or a 2.50. Makes all the difference.

[RichBeBe]

Originally Posted by DockingPilot

Fellas,
Can the carb inlet tube on the stock BST be rotated ?

I used a propane torch and moved it. Much easier than taking it off the bike and using a bench vise or something. Heated it up and moved it, real slowly and it worked fine.









































Just kidding

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by greer

Shipping may cost a war pension, but Amazon and Phat Performance show them in stock.

Sarah

Won't ship at all