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Old 01-25-2013, 08:21 PM   #73201
Feelers
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Two Things:
Raise idle
Go back to stock muffler
+1
When I put pressure on the throttle (closed, but a bit of pressure so it's opened just a tiny bit), the decel popping disappears. I'm running at 1350 rpm instead of the recommended 1500, so I bet if I just bumped the idle up a little bit, problem solved. But, the decel popping is not bad and doesn't bother me yet.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:36 PM   #73202
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
+1
When I put pressure on the throttle (closed, but a bit of pressure so it's opened just a tiny bit), the decel popping disappears. I'm running at 1350 rpm instead of the recommended 1500, so I bet if I just bumped the idle up a little bit, problem solved. But, the decel popping is not bad and doesn't bother me yet.
When I bought my '06 DR650 (in '06) it had an FMF on it. With that pipe the De-Cell DID bother me some. With the stock muffler it does not. My idle is higher than standard so that helps. A richer Pilot helps too ... but screw up fuel economy and overall performance.

I think around 1500 RPM idle is about right to reduce de-cell popping.

Another Tip! EAR PLUGS!
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:48 PM   #73203
Thumper Dan
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spokes

I'm trying to put a replacement spoke in and have gotten the broken one off but for the life of me, I cannot get the thread started on the new one.

Is there a trick to get the thread started; as it the threads are touching but seems they're bit short (they're the right ones for the bike though)??

thanks

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Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod

Thumper Dan screwed with this post 01-25-2013 at 09:41 PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:52 AM   #73204
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
+1
When I put pressure on the throttle (closed, but a bit of pressure so it's opened just a tiny bit), the decel popping disappears. I'm running at 1350 rpm instead of the recommended 1500, so I bet if I just bumped the idle up a little bit, problem solved. But, the decel popping is not bad and doesn't bother me yet.

Mine's the same... get over it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:57 AM   #73205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Only issue I am having now is some pretty obnoxious decel popping
I kinda like the decel popping :)

+1 tune for performance - decel popping won't hurt anything

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Old 01-26-2013, 06:47 AM   #73206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I'm trying to put a replacement spoke in and have gotten the broken one off but for the life of me, I cannot get the thread started on the new one.

Is there a trick to get the thread started; as it the threads are touching but seems they're bit short (they're the right ones for the bike though)??

thanks

Are you sure you got the right hub side spoke? The sprocket hub and brake hub are different diameters. The brake hub side spokes are longer.
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:33 AM   #73207
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
So fill us in on the outcome. Does the 350 rear spring fit a 650?
Well I think I will have to look else where cause the dr350 spring is 2.25 id at the top and 2 id at the bottom and the 650 spring is a inch shorter than my 350 spring.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:36 AM   #73208
JagLite
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Eh? Short spoked?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I'm trying to put a replacement spoke in and have gotten the broken one off but for the life of me, I cannot get the thread started on the new one.

Is there a trick to get the thread started; as it the threads are touching but seems they're bit short (they're the right ones for the bike though)??

thanks

The correct length spoke will be longer than the distance from the hub spoke hole to the rim spoke hole.
That means when you are starting to screw the spoke nipple on, the nipple will not be through the rim much, if any at all.
Sometimes you have to grind the end of the spoke off so it doesn't puncture the tube.

Sounds like you are using the short spoke on the long spoke side which won't work.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:35 AM   #73209
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C/W View Post
That's because the choke is an enrichment circuit.
What choke?
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:16 AM   #73210
MADurstewitz
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Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
I bet it is,I was wondering how long a DR650 runs with 20 more HP then stock? Has anybody ran one very long?
11,000 miles of fast highway so far. Only issue is a very, very small oil leak; probably from the tensioner. haven't had the time to completely diagnose. It's not enough to even leave a spot on the ground.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:24 AM   #73211
MADurstewitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
That was my first concern. With all that torque, you could always go from 2nd right to 4th.

As to abuse, "probably fine if not abused" why bother then. abuse it stock for the same effect as a babied 780.
No issues with mine. Getting out to a safe lane on the NYS thruway requires a great deal of acceleration. Staying ahead of idiots who try to tailgate keeps me moving between 80 and 90 mph on I287. I tend to ride fairly aggressively and always downshift while braking. If braking hard, I downshift very quickly. No issues.


Besides, riding it hard is a lot of fun.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:45 PM   #73212
crazy88
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Why Gas Tank, Why?

So I'm attempting the beginning maintenance on my DR, and I managed to change the handlebars successfully, so go me. Although I did undo things that didn't need undoing, like the clutch and the box next to the throttle...whatevs, it still ran fine after than particular mod.

Yesterday I tackled the gas tank, and put an IMS on it. After much frustration, I found I could only' keep the thing running when the vent line from the gas cap to the ? was not on it at all, otherwise it would die as if it ran out of gas. I figured, ok, I can deal w/ this temporarily in the winter before finding a better system, and it ran fine on the round-the neighborhood test drive I took it on.

Fast forward to this morning, and I can't get the thing to stay running. It starts fine, idles ok (seems to idle fine only when throttle is fully open), and then I take it as far as the end of the driveway before it stalls out. Generally in first gear, as soon as I try to get it to move further, it just dies. There's gas in it, the tube from the petcock to whatever is 4 inches to the right of the petcock seems clamped on fine, no leakage or anything. I've tried putting the vent tube from the gas cap back on, no dice. So why in the hell is my engine dying w/in <2 min of running? I was so proud until this morning...

In short, at the moment I'm an ignorant noob and a dumb brute. HULK ANGRY
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:56 PM   #73213
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
So I'm attempting the beginning maintenance on my DR, and I managed to change the handlebars successfully, so go me. Although I did undo things that didn't need undoing, like the clutch and the box next to the throttle...whatevs, it still ran fine after than particular mod.

Yesterday I tackled the gas tank, and put an IMS on it. After much frustration, I found I could only' keep the thing running when the vent line from the gas cap to the ? was not on it at all, otherwise it would die as if it ran out of gas. I figured, ok, I can deal w/ this temporarily in the winter before finding a better system, and it ran fine on the round-the neighborhood test drive I took it on.

Fast forward to this morning, and I can't get the thing to stay running. It starts fine, idles ok (seems to idle fine only when throttle is fully open), and then I take it as far as the end of the driveway before it stalls out. Generally in first gear, as soon as I try to get it to move further, it just dies. There's gas in it, the tube from the petcock to whatever is 4 inches to the right of the petcock seems clamped on fine, no leakage or anything. I've tried putting the vent tube from the gas cap back on, no dice. So why in the hell is my engine dying w/in <2 min of running? I was so proud until this morning...

In short, at the moment I'm an ignorant noob and a dumb brute. HULK ANGRY
Your descriptions are great!
Since you know what the petcock is, did you reuse the original petcock, or install a new one?
Also, attempt to blow through the gas cap tube with your mouth and see if you are able to, and let us know.

One more thing, idling and the throttle being fully open simultaneously is impossible. Full throttle means maximum acceleration. Idle means just sitting there on the kickstand running without you touching it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:30 PM   #73214
Lil' Steve
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Location: Da Bronx, NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
So I'm attempting the beginning maintenance on my DR, and I managed to change the handlebars successfully, so go me. Although I did undo things that didn't need undoing, like the clutch and the box next to the throttle...whatevs, it still ran fine after than particular mod.

Yesterday I tackled the gas tank, and put an IMS on it. After much frustration, I found I could only' keep the thing running when the vent line from the gas cap to the ? was not on it at all, otherwise it would die as if it ran out of gas. I figured, ok, I can deal w/ this temporarily in the winter before finding a better system, and it ran fine on the round-the neighborhood test drive I took it on.

Fast forward to this morning, and I can't get the thing to stay running. It starts fine, idles ok (seems to idle fine only when throttle is fully open), and then I take it as far as the end of the driveway before it stalls out. Generally in first gear, as soon as I try to get it to move further, it just dies. There's gas in it, the tube from the petcock to whatever is 4 inches to the right of the petcock seems clamped on fine, no leakage or anything. I've tried putting the vent tube from the gas cap back on, no dice. So why in the hell is my engine dying w/in <2 min of running? I was so proud until this morning...

In short, at the moment I'm an ignorant noob and a dumb brute. HULK ANGRY


How much fuel in the tank? IMS petcock or stock?
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:43 PM   #73215
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Are you sure you got the right hub side spoke? The sprocket hub and brake hub are different diameters. The brake hub side spokes are longer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
The correct length spoke will be longer than the distance from the hub spoke hole to the rim spoke hole.
That means when you are starting to screw the spoke nipple on, the nipple will not be through the rim much, if any at all.
Sometimes you have to grind the end of the spoke off so it doesn't puncture the tube.

Sounds like you are using the short spoke on the long spoke side which won't work.
Well, that's solved the confusion. I measured the old one with the new one and it does seem longer. I was starting to think, if I had to do this on the side of the ride for whatever reason, it would be very painful.

I will source out some disc side spokes. Its raining where I am and nothing better to do then to put a tyre and wheel back on! Thanks to both and another learning experience for the mighty DR
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod

Thumper Dan screwed with this post 01-26-2013 at 04:30 PM
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