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Old 01-28-2013, 05:46 PM   #73231
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 645
As always, thank you Eric. Your post and input is always appreciated!!!

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
In this case, as in all cases, I am attempting to raise the bar. I can see no downside to improving the precision with which we communicate. I see it as indicative of the general sad state of affairs that someone would disparage another (even to the extent of name-calling) for such a thing.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:59 PM   #73232
Feelers
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Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
As always, thank you Eric. Your post and input is always appreciated!!!

TravelGuy
In attempting to raise the bar, I just want to point out that his name is Derek... not Eric...

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Old 01-28-2013, 06:08 PM   #73233
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
In attempting to raise the bar, I just want to point out that his name is Derek... not Eric...



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Old 01-28-2013, 06:46 PM   #73234
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Best material to use on the skid plate to quite the vibration it makes and noise it focuses up into the bike???

Thinking the stick on sound deadeners panels where it does not touch the frame. Or a spray on line-x on the bottom underneath surface too??? how about that spray on under car body sound deadener??? the black stick stuff?

thanks, bill
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:51 PM   #73235
rpet
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Brooklyn, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Best material to use on the skid plate to quite the vibration it makes and noise it focuses up into the bike???

Thinking the stick on sound deadeners panels where it does not touch the frame. Or a spray on line-x on the bottom underneath surface too??? how about that spray on under car body sound deadener??? the black stick stuff?

thanks, bill
This is going on the inside of my plate later this spring. Cheap DIY experiment... we will see how it works.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MB6RIY/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:11 PM   #73236
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
Oddometer: 672
Nsu

Today I wrapped up my series of upgrades and maintenance on the DR by locktite-ing new allen head screws in place of the originals on the NSU switch and did it without removing the clutch basket which wasn't all that bad, a little fiddley but fairly quick to do. Nothing new to add to this repair and of course the the screws were not even tight.

I feel like I dodged the bullet on this one and got by on dumb luck. I've owned this 07 for 2 years now and it has a total of 5,000 miles, much more and the screws would have fallen out. Shear laziness on my part for not doing it right away when I bought the bike. The reason for this post now is to encourage anyone like me who has put it off to do it sooner than later. It's an easy fix for something that can spell big trouble if you let it go.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:14 PM   #73237
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Today I wrapped up my series of upgrades and maintenance on the DR by locktite-ing new allen head screws in place of the originals on the NSU switch and did it without removing the clutch basket which wasn't all that bad, a little fiddley but fairly quick to do. Nothing new to add to this repair and of course the the screws were not even tight.

I feel like I dodged the bullet on this one and got by on dumb luck. I've owned this 07 for 2 years now and it has a total of 5,000 miles, much more and the screws would have fallen out. Shear laziness on my part for not doing it right away when I bought the bike. The reason for this post now is to encourage anyone like me who has put it off to do it sooner than later. It's an easy fix for something that can spell big trouble if you let it go.
Mine were so tight I had to use an impact drive to get them loose

The primary nut, however, was way loose and would have come off in time. Its amazing how much these guys vary unit to unit..

08 6700 miles when I did it
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:15 PM   #73238
3DChief
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Montana
Oddometer: 411
Mine has the spray-on liner, probably about 5 or 6 coats. It helps, but not as much as you would think. The skid plate is still too reflective for sound waves. It's not vibration noises, it's all the noises the engine normally makes that are being reflected up at you instead of towards the ground. At first I was trying to find things to quiet it down, finally decided it isn't a big deal and I just ignore it now. I would like to find a really porous foam (think stripper pad on a floor buffer) to put in there and will try it if I find one. I just don't want anything that will hold water, it still needs to drain well.

Tim
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:54 PM   #73239
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 731
surging

I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day. The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:07 PM   #73240
Feelers
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Oddometer: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Best material to use on the skid plate to quite the vibration it makes and noise it focuses up into the bike???

Thinking the stick on sound deadeners panels where it does not touch the frame. Or a spray on line-x on the bottom underneath surface too??? how about that spray on under car body sound deadener??? the black stick stuff?

thanks, bill
Mass loaded vinyl with one side with adhesive is your best bet.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:16 PM   #73241
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,593
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Mass loaded vinyl with one side with adhesive is your best bet.
This might work.



I used it to isolate my Pelican box from the rack I mounted it on.

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Old 01-28-2013, 08:18 PM   #73242
cemory
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Topeka, Ks
Oddometer: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Mass loaded vinyl with one side with adhesive is your best bet.
I used dynamat that I bought at the local Best Buy store. They use it in cars to deaden sound from door and back dash speakers, etc. Here is just one link with some info on it. Best part is that you can trim to fit with scissors and then peel the paper off the self stick backing. I tried some spray on liner but I could never get it to stay on the aluminum skid plate. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dyc-10415/overview/

Chris in Topeka
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #73243
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
In attempting to raise the bar, I just want to point out that his name is Derek... not Eric...

That is pretty entertaining...

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:26 PM   #73244
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day.
What is the throttle position when the problem occurs?
Quote:
The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
Was the bike ever stored for any length of time?
Quote:
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
The fuel screw should be used to adjust the idle mixture. It is not applicable to other openings.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:49 PM   #73245
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day. The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
More details would help. Could be several things. Start with simple and cheap things:
1. Run some Sea Foam in your gas for a tank or two. (still surging?)
2. Drain tank, flush, remove petcock and clean fuel inlet filter.
3. Is the air box stock or modified? Is left side cover on bike?

The screw you're referring to is the fuel/air adjustment. Affects idle to one eighth throttle. Use a sheet rock screw to remove tin cover. It's UNDER Carb bowl, hard to see or reach. Rotate carb to gain access. Take sheet rock screw and poke into tin seal ... pull it out. Now you can remove the stock screw and add an extended fuel/air screw. Much easier to adjust with the extended screw.
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