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Old 02-03-2013, 08:58 AM   #73441
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Is the petcock turned to Prime?
Negative.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:34 AM   #73442
Obard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Went out this afternoon to give it hell, and finish the valve adjustment I've been trying to complete for months. Well ... I figured out what the clanging and rattling was. The bike swallowed the lock nut and the adjusting screw off of the rocker arm (intake). Now all I have to do is load up the bike and get it over to the bike shop down the road. Live and learn ... The hard way.

Awe who am I kidding, I'm to cheap to take it anywhere, guess I'll see what the engine inards look like. Hope ya'll don't mind the onslaught of questions I'm likely to be asking.
So, what's next? Where do I even start? Will pulling the head off help, or am I looking at removal and tear down?

Obard screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 10:06 AM Reason: Added intake locale
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:46 AM   #73443
Davis53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
So, what's next? Where do I even start? Will pulling the head off help, or am I looking at removal and tear down?
I think the nut has only one way to go down the cam chain. Or it may be stuck in the tunnel for the cam chain. Take a bright flashlight and look down at the cam chain. If you can't find it take the right sidecase off and take a look.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:01 AM   #73444
dogjaw
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Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezagm4 View Post
Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?
Try loosening the clamps on your fork boots, I you haven't already; I felt like a dork tapping and bumping on my forks, only to remember that I hasn't loosened mine.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:55 AM   #73445
Mambo Dave
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Again, thanks guys for the inspiration and pictures for valve clearance checks.

I just got done with it. The exhausts were fine at 7700 miles (which makes me think I did something wrong, but I'm not sure there really is any way the valves could find a position looser than the correct TDC one), and the intakes needed backed off.

The petcock is still free-flowing, but that will have to wait for attention on Thursday.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:56 AM   #73446
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
For something like this, I always go the quick easy route before jumping to seal replacement. Do the film trick to see if there's some dirt or sand stuck in your fork seal (or use a Seal Mate if you have one). After you clean the seals, put the bike on a lift and pull the fork inards and fill to the proper level. Hopefully you wont see any more oil leaking. If you do, then you may have to go ahead and replace the seals. But at least you'll know for sure and won't have wasted too much time or money.
Using a piece of 35mm film is a good idea ... it's free and may possibly solve the problem. But if the rubber lip of the seal is nicked ... it will have to be replaced.
I would CAREFULLY inspect the fork tube on the leaky side. Look for any damage, nicks, sharp edges, rock hits. Carefully buff out (or burnish out) any damage as best you can. Or ... have the tube professionally polished using gritty compounds.

But replacing the seal is no big deal and seals are not all that expensive. I would replace BOTH seals if you pull the forks apart. If you've never done it ... find some good tutorials here on the job ... or have a Pro do it.

As a general rule its a good idea to regularly clean UNDER the rubber fork gaiter (like twice a season) especially down on top and around the fork seal area. Keep sand and crud out of there. It builds up and can ruin the seal.

Good luck!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 11:06 AM
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:02 AM   #73447
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sic Semper Tyrannis View Post
My XR failed this way. I refilled and it leaked.

I think a healthy seal will take being tied down in reasonable fashion. If the seal is sketchy or nearly dead then this is the result. I would just replace it, but throwing some oil in won't hurt.....until it leaks down the leg and onto the tire next ride....
Or ... until it leaks onto your front rotor! I've had a few seals go out on LONG rides where I'm away from home for weeks. If your brake side fork seal is leaking ... or the right side as well ... I recommend tying a rag on your fork leg just below the seal. (Gaiter must come off). The rag will absorb most of the oil ... keeping it off your rotor and front tire. But many times using the Film to clean out the seal can "fix" the problem.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:26 AM   #73448
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Again, thanks guys for the inspiration and pictures for valve clearance checks.

I just got done with it. The exhausts were fine at 7700 miles (which makes me think I did something wrong, but I'm not sure there really is any way the valves could find a position looser than the correct TDC one), and the intakes needed backed off.

The petcock is still free-flowing, but that will have to wait for attention on Thursday.
Nah, you probably did it right, been my experience the exhausts tend to get out of spec a lot less then the intakes.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:42 AM   #73449
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
The petcock is still free-flowing, but that will have to wait for attention on Thursday.
The internal valve is stuck. They are not lubricated from the factory and a tiny bit of corrosion will make it stick. It's an easy fix. Disassemble the petcock, clean up everything, put a little grease on the piston and bore.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:00 PM   #73450
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
OMG

So I replaced the wiring harness by myself in like an hour and a half AND IT RUNS. they failed in that task by telling me all this other shit was fucked up when it wasn't. Mother fuckers.......Those fuckers.
Tell us how you really feel.

Glad you found it so easy. Did you get a used harness? I had to do the same for my DR650 and found it easy, The only other trouble I had was the wires in the handlebar control for the starter button were all welded together, but with an aftermarket button assy and a wiring diagram I was able to make things right.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:08 PM   #73451
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Yesterday, I found a DR in my garage with a title so.....needs a couple of shoes.

Okay, don't groan too much because I've tried to search this thread, "tires" and it won't bring up any posts, maybe there are too many.....so sorry about asking......only seeking knowledge!

What tires do you all recommend for more off road performance?

I'd love to pay $50-75 for a front, for a decent performing tire, maybe not possible. I was looking at the Kendas K760, anybody have any experience with these??

Thanks
The Kenda TrakMaster II in my opinion is the most aggressive DOT knobby available for the rear. I really like the Bridgestone ED-03 for the front. DOT also. Prices for both fall in your range. I ride my DR 90% offroad. I found this combo very much to my liking.

On my KTM which is really my competition bike, I like the Pirelli Skorpion XCHM on the front. DOT also, but I haven't tried it on my heavy DR. I don't know how it would be on tar.
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:26 PM   #73452
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Nah, you probably did it right, been my experience the exhausts tend to get out of spec a lot less then the intakes.
Thanks for making me feel better about it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The internal valve is stuck. They are not lubricated from the factory and a tiny bit of corrosion will make it stick. It's an easy fix. Disassemble the petcock, clean up everything, put a little grease on the piston and bore.
Thank you a ton. I've never had a vacuum petcock apart before, but I have to imagine the piston is just what the vacuum sucks on to keep the valve open (or it is the valve itself). Grease... we must be talking a very thin grease here? I'm always a fan of using grease, but in this case... I may need to buy an appropriate grease. Maybe it's bigger than I'm imagining though, and regular grease won't faze it?

I just filled the tank up, so now I'm going to have to wait... or ... Hey, what size is the actual fuel tubing that fits on the petcock? I could go buy some tubing and drain it out into a fuel tank. But no fuel line I had here at the house was right for the petcock.
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:55 PM   #73453
falcore
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #73454
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
For something like this, I always go the quick easy route before jumping to seal replacement. Do the film trick to see if there's some dirt or sand stuck in your fork seal (or use a Seal Mate if you have one). After you clean the seals, put the bike on a lift and pull the fork inards and fill to the proper level. Hopefully you wont see any more oil leaking. If you do, then you may have to go ahead and replace the seals. But at least you'll know for sure and won't have wasted too much time or money.
I did this today, and after a short ride there were no signs of further leaking. Hopefully it will stay fixed! The bike only has 6k miles and the fork tubes and dust seals look perfect.

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:31 AM   #73455
TIGERRIDER007
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Acworth, GA
Oddometer: 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
The Kenda TrakMaster II in my opinion is the most aggressive DOT knobby available for the rear. I really like the Bridgestone ED-03 for the front. DOT also. Prices for both fall in your range. I ride my DR 90% offroad. I found this combo very much to my liking.

On my KTM which is really my competition bike, I like the Pirelli Skorpion XCHM on the front. DOT also, but I haven't tried it on my heavy DR. I don't know how it would be on tar.
Thank you sir!
I appreciate the information, I was really leaning toward the Kendas as to never have ridden a DR off road to evaluate tire models, and the budget is tight right now in an attempt to get some dual sporting things so, try to save a little here and there...

Here is another quick question if you don't mind....is it better to have the handlebars lower or higher when riding off road?
I was thinking of putting some risers on the stock setup, so standing would be a little more comfortable, if necessary.

Thanks again, Rusty Rocket and DR crowd for good intel!
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