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Old 02-03-2013, 07:04 AM   #73441
Mercenary
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Ft St John, BC Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
What tires do you all recommend for more off road performance?

I'd love to pay $50-75 for a front, for a decent performing tire, maybe not possible. I was looking at the Kendas K760, anybody have any experience with these??

Thanks
I will be purchasing a set of TKC 80's for my DR this spring. I cannot comment on their performance but there is enough anecdotal evidence claiming they perform excellent on road and off to warrant at least a purchase.....
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:06 AM   #73442
adventurebound9517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
OMG

So I replaced the wiring harness by myself in like an hour and a half AND IT RUNS. I'm going to put all the little wire ties and put everything back on tomorrow and it will take me another 45 minutes or so so maybe 3 hours tops total. And that dealer quoted me 1300 dollars, said I needed new keys, ignition, battery. I will quote them "the more wires we pulled the more it was burned up and it's burned all the way to the ignition".

What the fuck!! Why would people try to literally fuck you like that? I can't believe how naive I was, I will never go to a fucking dealer service department again. Ugh that makes me sick. I am pissed that I paid them the 200 to tow it to their shop and diagnose it. I'm going to go back and tell them I want the 100 bucks back for diagnosing it because they failed in that task by telling me all this other shit was fucked up when it wasn't. Mother fuckers. I hope I put that shit on my american express. I am pretty sure I did. Those fuckers.
So tell us how you really feel. Seriously, that is a bad deal and good luck with getting some of your money back.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:29 AM   #73443
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
OMG

So I replaced the wiring harness by myself in like an hour and a half AND IT RUNS. I'm going to put all the little wire ties and put everything back on tomorrow and it will take me another 45 minutes or so so maybe 3 hours tops total. And that dealer quoted me 1300 dollars, said I needed new keys, ignition, battery. I will quote them "the more wires we pulled the more it was burned up and it's burned all the way to the ignition".

What the fuck!! Why would people try to literally fuck you like that? I can't believe how naive I was, I will never go to a fucking dealer service department again. Ugh that makes me sick. I am pissed that I paid them the 200 to tow it to their shop and diagnose it. I'm going to go back and tell them I want the 100 bucks back for diagnosing it because they failed in that task by telling me all this other shit was fucked up when it wasn't. Mother fuckers. I hope I put that shit on my american express. I am pretty sure I did. Those fuckers.
I'm curious if they have to swap out all that crap for liability reasons. If they don't replace everything and it turns out that it was a short in some part they left on that caused the original problem, they're in a pretty sticky situation. Still, $1300 is way too much money, and you did the smart thing by working on it yourself. If they lied about the diagnosis, you've got a totally legit reason to get your money back. Glad to hear you got her up and running so quickly!
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:50 AM   #73444
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
Why would people try to literally fuck you like that? I can't believe how naive I was, I will never go to a fucking dealer service department again. Ugh that makes me sick.
I'm willing to bet you know more about it now than they ever did. Too many dealership service departments don't have a clue and it puts the unprepared bike owner at their mercy.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:52 AM   #73445
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
jeff ???
The only short aftermarket fork boots that I know of only fit smaller diameter forks. We have some that we use for XT225s and TW200s. They would never stretch on to the DR forks. Forkskins are a good alternative.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:31 AM   #73446
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
OMG

So I replaced the wiring harness by myself in like an hour and a half AND IT RUNS. I'm going to put all the little wire ties and put everything back on tomorrow and it will take me another 45 minutes or so so maybe 3 hours tops total. And that dealer quoted me 1300 dollars, said I needed new keys, ignition, battery. I will quote them "the more wires we pulled the more it was burned up and it's burned all the way to the ignition".

What the fuck!! Why would people try to literally fuck you like that? I can't believe how naive I was, I will never go to a fucking dealer service department again. Ugh that makes me sick. I am pissed that I paid them the 200 to tow it to their shop and diagnose it. I'm going to go back and tell them I want the 100 bucks back for diagnosing it because they failed in that task by telling me all this other shit was fucked up when it wasn't. Mother fuckers. I hope I put that shit on my american express. I am pretty sure I did. Those fuckers.
A bad experience or two like this have turned a lot of us in to do it your selfers. For over 30 years now I haven't let any one touch my cars, trucks, or motorcycles. I don't even enjoy the work all that much on the cars and trucks anymore but hate to pay someone my hard earned money to f#%& it up. There are still some good shops out there but they are few and far between.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:42 AM   #73447
Mambo Dave
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Speaking of DIY and the valve clearances a few posts back...

I just pulled my vacuum and fuel line from the petcock, but the petcock is free-flowing fuel out each time I take the fuel hose off.

It's supposed to be a vacuum petcock... why is it free-flowing?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:48 AM   #73448
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Speaking of DIY and the valve clearances a few posts back...

I just pulled my vacuum and fuel line from the petcock, but the petcock is free-flowing fuel out each time I take the fuel hose off.

It's supposed to be a vacuum petcock... why is it free-flowing?

Is the petcock turned to Prime?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:58 AM   #73449
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Is the petcock turned to Prime?
Negative.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:34 AM   #73450
Obard
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Location: Kapowsin, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Went out this afternoon to give it hell, and finish the valve adjustment I've been trying to complete for months. Well ... I figured out what the clanging and rattling was. The bike swallowed the lock nut and the adjusting screw off of the rocker arm (intake). Now all I have to do is load up the bike and get it over to the bike shop down the road. Live and learn ... The hard way.

Awe who am I kidding, I'm to cheap to take it anywhere, guess I'll see what the engine inards look like. Hope ya'll don't mind the onslaught of questions I'm likely to be asking.
So, what's next? Where do I even start? Will pulling the head off help, or am I looking at removal and tear down?

Obard screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 10:06 AM Reason: Added intake locale
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:46 AM   #73451
Davis53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
So, what's next? Where do I even start? Will pulling the head off help, or am I looking at removal and tear down?
I think the nut has only one way to go down the cam chain. Or it may be stuck in the tunnel for the cam chain. Take a bright flashlight and look down at the cam chain. If you can't find it take the right sidecase off and take a look.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:01 AM   #73452
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezagm4 View Post
Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?
Try loosening the clamps on your fork boots, I you haven't already; I felt like a dork tapping and bumping on my forks, only to remember that I hasn't loosened mine.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:55 AM   #73453
Mambo Dave
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Again, thanks guys for the inspiration and pictures for valve clearance checks.

I just got done with it. The exhausts were fine at 7700 miles (which makes me think I did something wrong, but I'm not sure there really is any way the valves could find a position looser than the correct TDC one), and the intakes needed backed off.

The petcock is still free-flowing, but that will have to wait for attention on Thursday.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:56 AM   #73454
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
For something like this, I always go the quick easy route before jumping to seal replacement. Do the film trick to see if there's some dirt or sand stuck in your fork seal (or use a Seal Mate if you have one). After you clean the seals, put the bike on a lift and pull the fork inards and fill to the proper level. Hopefully you wont see any more oil leaking. If you do, then you may have to go ahead and replace the seals. But at least you'll know for sure and won't have wasted too much time or money.
Using a piece of 35mm film is a good idea ... it's free and may possibly solve the problem. But if the rubber lip of the seal is nicked ... it will have to be replaced.
I would CAREFULLY inspect the fork tube on the leaky side. Look for any damage, nicks, sharp edges, rock hits. Carefully buff out (or burnish out) any damage as best you can. Or ... have the tube professionally polished using gritty compounds.

But replacing the seal is no big deal and seals are not all that expensive. I would replace BOTH seals if you pull the forks apart. If you've never done it ... find some good tutorials here on the job ... or have a Pro do it.

As a general rule its a good idea to regularly clean UNDER the rubber fork gaiter (like twice a season) especially down on top and around the fork seal area. Keep sand and crud out of there. It builds up and can ruin the seal.

Good luck!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 11:06 AM
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:02 AM   #73455
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sic Semper Tyrannis View Post
My XR failed this way. I refilled and it leaked.

I think a healthy seal will take being tied down in reasonable fashion. If the seal is sketchy or nearly dead then this is the result. I would just replace it, but throwing some oil in won't hurt.....until it leaks down the leg and onto the tire next ride....
Or ... until it leaks onto your front rotor! I've had a few seals go out on LONG rides where I'm away from home for weeks. If your brake side fork seal is leaking ... or the right side as well ... I recommend tying a rag on your fork leg just below the seal. (Gaiter must come off). The rag will absorb most of the oil ... keeping it off your rotor and front tire. But many times using the Film to clean out the seal can "fix" the problem.
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