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Old 02-04-2013, 07:25 PM   #73471
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Hey, I resemble that remark!!! :)

(Mine's a '96)
The best year! All the rest are just copies.



BTW, mine's also a '96.

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Old 02-04-2013, 07:43 PM   #73472
Spirtwolf15x
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Hello everyone, I just recently (Thursday to be precise) bought a brand new 2013 DR650, the first one off the floor for my local shop. Currently I've only got 7.6km on her so I'm still breaking her in. This will be the very first time I've ever broke in a bike so any and all tips and pointers are welcome.

Currently I'm looking for a good "break in" route to use in Vancouver, I'm thinking out to Agassiz the long way would be pretty good. If anyone knows any others or better ones please let me know.

-Wolf
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:55 PM   #73473
3DChief
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Ride it like you stole it! I have done the break in both ways, the factory recommended never over XXXX rpms for the first 1K miles, and ride it like you would ride a broken in bike. I actually prefer the ride it like you stole it method and have had no ill effects on breaking in several bikes that way. You'll hear both recommendations here. Take your pick, either will work fine.
The main thing is get out and enjoy that thing as much as possible!


Tim
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:09 PM   #73474
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spirtwolf15x View Post
Currently I've only got 7.6km on her so I'm still breaking her in.
Check out --> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:47 PM   #73475
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
This is often said and I'm sure many have bent their bars but.... I've not found it to be true for me. I've dropped my bike many times, a few times very hard and haven't ever bent the bars. I do have good barkbusters on, which I think helps by spreading impact load.

I'm 5'9" tall and find the stock bars fit me well.

...........shu
Yep, I figured I have been lucky, others have been unlucky, or business people like to sell handlebars so they tought the (fact) stock bars are weak. Mine never bent.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #73476
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Air Hd View Post
Been looking at DR650s for awhile- wondering what the difference is
Between <'06 & 07>on models. Believe I've read there is a slight weight
& H.P difference, but wonder why & what advantage there is in one to the
Other? Also between Calif. & non Calif models? I'm in Ariz, so could go either
Way if I find the right DR! & when is fuel injection coming to DR650?
Enjoy this thred & hope to add one of these iconic motos to my air cooled stable. Thanks for any/all info!
There were a few very minor changes between '05 and '07 as far as I know. But they were so minor they didn't even make the specs sheet for workshop manual. I had an '05 Press Demo bike and asked the Suzuki reps about anything new.

I was told the carb and jetting were "revised" and minor valve timing changes were made for EPA and economy reasons. I can confirm ... the '05 ran STRONGER than a stock '04 with only 2000 miles on it. (I had them back to back) The owner of the '04 DR650 was so convinced he went out and bought a NEW '06 a few months later.

But honestly ... there ain't much in it. All pretty much the same.
The California model does have different jetting and timing than 49 state models. Also, the tool kit on CA models is set further back to make room for the canister and hoses. But it runs fine, far as I could tell.

The weight is the same ... Suzuki are just revising claimed dry weight and including battery, motor oil, fork oil and some fuel ... now calling it Curb weight. So the figure has gone UP but the bike is the same.

Some great deals on used DR's on AZ Craig's list in the last month.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:22 AM   #73477
Spirtwolf15x
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Location: Vancouver, Canada
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I've decided on a route, only thing is now resisting the urge to "baby" my brand new bike
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:53 AM   #73478
Carl Childers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northyork View Post
A friend of mine sent me this 5 minute long video. I am sure you are going to enjoy it

LONG LIVE THE KINGS - Short film documentary - from SAGS on Vimeo.

Love It! Old school is my school.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:14 AM   #73479
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Air Hd
when is fuel injection coming to DR650?
I wouldn't hold my breath on that one. The "second generation" DR650SE has been production since 1996. If Suzuki were to do that, I would expect a major re-design of the entire bike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee
Although the purple framed one is highly collectible.
Aw damn, I went and had my '97's frame powder coated in silver.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:15 AM   #73480
adventurebound9517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Thanks for sharing this.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #73481
TIGERRIDER007
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Location: Acworth, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Agreed. I learned about that back when I was snowmobiling. Same thing when hitting a super-steep hill.. you're up over the bars, but you have to manage your position so you keep enough weight on the track. You don't actually want the skis on the ground, though... you generally want them a few inches in the air, and just like riding in sand, you steer with your feet/body.

Some of the newer sleds come with a telescoping handlebar setup, so you can change it on the fly... down low for sitting down on the trail (or climbing real high), or up for general standing/riding.

Rob
Okay, good information. So, you don't want the bars too high, but high enough to stand on the pegs comfortably? The point being, you give up control for comfort as the bars get higher...correct?
Thanks for the input....never been snow-mobiling, but I bet it's a blast!
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:38 AM   #73482
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Okay, good information. So, you don't want the bars too high, but high enough to stand on the pegs comfortably? The point being, you give up control for comfort as the bars get higher...correct?
Thanks for the input....never been snow-mobiling, but I bet it's a blast!
I think part of what he was saying is that you don't want the bars too far back as much as anything. I went riding yesterday afternoon and got to thinking about it. I can stand up and lean forward just fine, but I need to pivot my bars forward about an inch to make it ideal, so I may just try doing that today.

Snowmobiling is an absolute blast. Highly recommended if you get the chance.. mountain snowmobiling that is, not that silly flat-lander crap. :)

Rob
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:53 PM   #73483
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I think part of what he was saying is that you don't want the bars too far back as much as anything. I went riding yesterday afternoon and got to thinking about it. I can stand up and lean forward just fine, but I need to pivot my bars forward about an inch to make it ideal, so I may just try doing that today.

Snowmobiling is an absolute blast. Highly recommended if you get the chance.. mountain snowmobiling that is, not that silly flat-lander crap. :)

Rob
Yes, remember that due to the head angle of your moto, if you merely get higher rise bars, you are most likely also bringing the grips toward your body, effectively make the cockpit smaller front-to-back. This could make the cockpit and ergos actually worse rather than better, if you are a tall dude.

Any rise in bar height should generally be accompanied by forward risers, or at least a decrease in handlebar pull-back, even more so if you are a taller rider or trying to ride offroad (standing up) on a bike with more old school ergos (like the DR). Putting the grips in your lap will make cornering tougher, as mentioned before.

I just did the ProTaper oversize mounts on my DR, and put them in the forward offset position. Not sure if it enough forward for me. The Rox risers are good for fine-tuning height and reach; i have those on my XR.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:00 PM   #73484
Rob.G
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I just spent a half hour replacing the stupid factory "toolbox" tube with one of those nicer, longer, more-secure "skinny tool tubes." Went on pretty easily. I found two lengths of metal in my junk drawers that were meant to be used with u-bolts. Stuck 'em in the vice and bent one 90-deg for the rear, and bent the other one at 45-deg for the front, to line up with the hole in the frame where the rear blinker used to go (since mine were relocated to the OEM rack to work with the Givi luggage racks), then secured everything with nylocks and bolts.

Anyway, now to decide what to put in it. On my KLX250S, I use two of the regular-sized tool tubes and one of them holds a zipper pouch with tools in it. No such luck fitting even the empty zipper pouch in this one. Hmmm.

Rob
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:11 PM   #73485
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adventurebound9517 View Post
Thanks for sharing this.

Is the motoman method really the preferred? I have a friend who is a mechanic that said a lot of problems can steam from running a brand new engine hard in the beginning of its life. Then again, he might just be saying it for the business. Does anybody have an engine with a ton of miles\Kms on it that has used the Motoman method? My main concern is oil leaking past the rings.
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