the DR650 thread

[Obard]

Went out this afternoon to give it hell, and finish the valve adjustment I've been trying to complete for months. Well ... I figured out what the clanging and rattling was. The bike swallowed the lock nut and the adjusting screw off of the rocker arm. Now all I have to do is load up the bike and get it over to the bike shop down the road. Live and learn ... The hard way.

Awe who am I kidding, I'm to cheap to take it anywhere, guess I'll see what the engine inards look like. Hope ya'll don't mind the onslaught of questions I'm likely to be asking.

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Obard

Went out this afternoon to give it hell, and finish the valve adjustment I've been trying to complete for months. Well ... I figured out what the clanging and rattling was. The bike swallowed the lock nut and the adjusting screw off of the rocker arm. Now all I have to do is load up the bike and get it over to the bike shop down the road. Live and learn ... The hard way.

Ouch, did that with my old 1150 GS years ago. Never did find the nut.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Here is how I do it, FWIW:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371

I was hoping you'd post that link. It shows how wide the adjustment angle tolerance is on the cam, instead of struggling to find the 'T' in the window: 'one straw please'. And that you don't have to remove either of the two seized inspection plugs in the stator cover. You could put it in Krusty's DR index.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636386

[Northyork]

I am re-posting this since my original post was deleted because i forgot to add prices, my second post was deleted due to forbidden links to Kijiji.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post20637388

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Obard

Went out this afternoon to give it hell, and finish the valve adjustment I've been trying to complete for months. Well ... I figured out what the clanging and rattling was. The bike swallowed the lock nut and the adjusting screw off of the rocker arm. Now all I have to do is load up the bike and get it over to the bike shop down the road. Live and learn ... The hard way.

Awe who am I kidding, I'm to cheap to take it anywhere, guess I'll see what the engine inards look like. Hope ya'll don't mind the onslaught of questions I'm likely to be asking.

Sorry to hear about the findings. Folks will be glad to answer your questions. Learn how to post pics; everybody loves pics.

Originally Posted by Northyork

Hi, I have sold my DR650, moving on to a KTM 990 Adventure. DR650 is a great bike, it gave me lots of satisfactions, but it was time to try something new. Anyhow I have a whole bunch of accessories for sale.

Sorry to see you go, I hope the KTM treats you well.

[BadDogMax]

Was hauling my bike ... and when I went to unload I saw fork oil leaking all over the truck bed!

I had no evidence of leaking or seeping before this.

I've never had one fail this way. In the past when seals failed, there was always increasing seeping and dripping on the garage floor.

Can I just refill the shock oil to the proper level? Or is my seal ruined and I have to replace it?

[eakins]

jeff ???

Originally Posted by eakins

Hey Jeff - ProCycle,

Do you offer shorter or have found shorter fork boots that compensate when using a fork brace? The stock boots have to be pushed up a good bit to sit above the fork brace. Do your aftermarket fork boots fit better with a fork brace?

Thanks Bill

ps if you can find the supplier for this cap http://www.vstroma.com/oilfillercap.htm it fits the DR perfectly (the exact same cap used on the DR & Vstrom. i compared when i owned both bikes at the same time) and this cap is a great security cap for RTW travelers. have it on my bike - see pic below.

here are the pricier options:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/1...rom-DL650-1000
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...rom-DL650-1000

[shaddix]

OMG

So I replaced the wiring harness by myself in like an hour and a half AND IT RUNS. I'm going to put all the little wire ties and put everything back on tomorrow and it will take me another 45 minutes or so so maybe 3 hours tops total. And that dealer quoted me 1300 dollars, said I needed new keys, ignition, battery. I will quote them "the more wires we pulled the more it was burned up and it's burned all the way to the ignition".

What the fuck!! Why would people try to literally fuck you like that? I can't believe how naive I was, I will never go to a fucking dealer service department again. Ugh that makes me sick. I am pissed that I paid them the 200 to tow it to their shop and diagnose it. I'm going to go back and tell them I want the 100 bucks back for diagnosing it because they failed in that task by telling me all this other shit was fucked up when it wasn't. Mother fuckers. I hope I put that shit on my american express. I am pretty sure I did. Those fuckers.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I was hoping you'd post that link. It shows how wide the adjustment angle tolerance is on the cam, instead of struggling to find the 'T' in the window: 'one straw please'. And that you don't have to remove either of the two seized inspection plugs in the stator cover. You could put it in Krusty's DR index.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636386

Done

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by martinfishlog

New running lights

At first I thought this was awesome - but while it's still a pretty neat placement, IMO the point of extra LED lighting like those LED pods that don't really throw light down onto the ground would be for safety. At probably even smaller distances the light from the LED's in the two facia holes are just going to mix in with the single headlight beam. It will make it brighter for oncoming traffic, sure, but it isn't going to be as eye-catching as when those same pods were separated out of the main light's beam. I've used the same style of pods, but in red, for the rear of my last bike since I commuted so much. I put them well far and away from the main tail-light to give cages more to see. After over 20k miles of commuting, mostly at night for one leg of the trip, I'm pretty sure it helped a lot to have extra lights, and to have those extra lights outward enough to make drivers notice they were behind something more unusual than just a car with one light out.

I don't know where you'd mount them, but I'd take those same lights and try to put them up off of the hand-guards - or even the more classic area of down low on the forks.

[phreakingeek]

For something like this, I always go the quick easy route before jumping to seal replacement. Do the film trick to see if there's some dirt or sand stuck in your fork seal (or use a Seal Mate if you have one). After you clean the seals, put the bike on a lift and pull the fork inards and fill to the proper level. Hopefully you wont see any more oil leaking. If you do, then you may have to go ahead and replace the seals. But at least you'll know for sure and won't have wasted too much time or money.

Originally Posted by BadDogMax

Was hauling my bike ... and when I went to unload I saw fork oil leaking all over the truck bed!

I had no evidence of leaking or seeping before this.

I've never had one fail this way. In the past when seals failed, there was always increasing seeping and dripping on the garage floor.

Can I just refill the shock oil to the proper level? Or is my seal ruined and I have to replace it?

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Here is how I do it, FWIW:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371

Thank you, and thank you to ER70S-2.

It's more than time I take car of this. Maybe even today if I can find the tools I bought from ProCycle.

[Sic Semper Tyrannis]

Originally Posted by BadDogMax

Was hauling my bike ... and when I went to unload I saw fork oil leaking all over the truck bed!
snip

Can I just refill the shock oil to the proper level? Or is my seal ruined and I have to replace it?

My XR failed this way. I refilled and it leaked.

I think a healthy seal will take being tied down in reasonable fashion. If the seal is sketchy or nearly dead then this is the result. I would just replace it, but throwing some oil in won't hurt.....until it leaks down the leg and onto the tire next ride....

[TIGERRIDER007]

Yesterday, I found a DR in my garage with a title so.....needs a couple of shoes.

Okay, don't groan too much because I've tried to search this thread, "tires" and it won't bring up any posts, maybe there are too many.....so sorry about asking......only seeking knowledge!

What tires do you all recommend for more off road performance?

I'd love to pay $50-75 for a front, for a decent performing tire, maybe not possible. I was looking at the Kendas K760, anybody have any experience with these??

Thanks

[greer]

Originally Posted by Sic Semper Tyrannis

My XR failed this way. I refilled and it leaked.

I think a healthy seal will take being tied down in reasonable fashion. If the seal is sketchy or nearly dead then this is the result. I would just replace it, but throwing some oil in won't hurt.....until it leaks down the leg and onto the tire next ride....

.......And ruins the brake pads and soaks your boot and pant leg.

Sarah