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Old 02-09-2013, 10:02 AM   #73576
PPCLI-Jim
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
Oddometer: 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by ban View Post
I need to replace the rings in my DR. Can I remove the cylinder without removing the engine from the frame? If so any links or tricks would be appreciated.


take it to a spray and wash if you dont have a power cleaner and go crazy with it . The cleaner the working area the less issues later it seems. IE no crud falling or hiding nuts and bolts, heads of them are easier to see.No complicxations later from the crap . get a roll of industrial paper towel ina as you are moving the cylinder head up tuck it around the gap so if ther is a small piece of crap/ nut bolt / screw it doesn't fall into the crank case. then wipe the area down then tuck a clean non fluffy rag down there when the case and cylinder are finally seperated , to keep everything else out.. Good luck
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:28 AM   #73577
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,300
center stand use?

hi all,

well, after running into some difficulty getting my center stand installed - one of the bolts holding the foot-pegs sheared off inside the frame, requiring drilling it out and installing a heli-coil type thread repair kit - the center stand is finally in its proper place. so, what is the trick to actually get the bike on its center stand? it seems there is not enough leverage to be had from grabbing the rear rack w/my right hand. has anyone successfully installed some type of grab device closer to the center of the bike? i figure the fact that i have a smaller diameter 150/60-17 rear wheel/tire isn't helping things, but it shouldn't make that much of a difference. my ducati darmah is a snap to get on its center stand, (which is a good thing as it doesn't have a side stand), and it weighs ~175lbs more.

any suggestions?

tia,

doug s.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:02 AM   #73578
JBradley500
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Joined: Jan 2013
Oddometer: 54
The KLR has an option to buy a handle that bolts on the same place as the passenger kickstand. Maybe you can fab something up for the dr?

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Old 02-09-2013, 11:20 AM   #73579
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Jethrow,
I'd suggest you go back about 250 pages in this thread. Start reading. Everything is covered ... over and over.
Quote:
Originally Posted by majorfaller View Post
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like 5000 miles isn't bad. I just sold my DR350 and the Avon tires had 13000 miles on them with some left. Avon doesn't make then in DR650 size.
See my quote above ... all the tire info is here ... over and over again.
I've run several Avon Distanzia on my DR650. Great street/touring tire, good for between about 6 and 8000 miles on a rear, about 9000 up front.

Also see :
Michelin Anakee
Metzeler Tourance
Pirelli MT90 Scorpion
Shinko 705

All the above tires come in either 120 or 130/17 sizes. Some offer both ... and either a 120 or 130 will work perfectly on the DR650.

So back way up ... start reading. It's all here.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:27 AM   #73580
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
hi all,

well, after running into some difficulty getting my center stand installed - one of the bolts holding the foot-pegs sheared off inside the frame, requiring drilling it out and installing a heli-coil type thread repair kit - the center stand is finally in its proper place. so, what is the trick to actually get the bike on its center stand? it seems there is not enough leverage to be had from grabbing the rear rack w/my right hand. has anyone successfully installed some type of grab device closer to the center of the bike? i figure the fact that i have a smaller diameter 150/60-17 rear wheel/tire isn't helping things, but it shouldn't make that much of a difference. my ducati darmah is a snap to get on its center stand, (which is a good thing as it doesn't have a side stand), and it weighs ~175lbs more.

any suggestions?

tia,

doug s.
You've screwed yourself going with SM size wheels. It's going to be a major
lift to get the bike on the stand. I'd improvise a nice leather strap attached to passenger peg. Don't hurt your back ... easy to do at that angle.

My trick is to get the bike rolling backward ... then step down hard on the stand arm and hoik it up. Good luck.
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:36 PM   #73581
bluegroove
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 440
simple. put a 2x4 in front of one or both wheels. then push bike up onto that before jumping on the center stand.

you can cut the end of the 2x4 at an angle to make it like a ramp. Ive done this with heavy street bikes for years. Just the rear wheel will do.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:04 PM   #73582
victor441
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Oddometer: 862
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
hi all,

well, after running into some difficulty getting my center stand installed - one of the bolts holding the foot-pegs sheared off inside the frame, requiring drilling it out and installing a heli-coil type thread repair kit - the center stand is finally in its proper place. so, what is the trick to actually get the bike on its center stand? it seems there is not enough leverage to be had from grabbing the rear rack w/my right hand. has anyone successfully installed some type of grab device closer to the center of the bike? i figure the fact that i have a smaller diameter 150/60-17 rear wheel/tire isn't helping things, but it shouldn't make that much of a difference. my ducati darmah is a snap to get on its center stand, (which is a good thing as it doesn't have a side stand), and it weighs ~175lbs more.

any suggestions?

tia,

doug s.

do you have a SM size wheel on the front too?? If so you might want to shorten the centerstand, I had to take about 1.5" out of the sidestand on my DR650SM to get the length right. FWIW the removed tubing can be cut lengthwise, reduced in diameter, then used as an insert between the cut pieceswhen the stand is welded back together...
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:05 PM   #73583
dman
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 576
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Giant Loop Fandango Tankbag on IMS tank w/ Acerbis gas cap
Thanks for the link and pics. Question ... is the gas cap cutout big enough for a standard IMS gap with shorty vent tube and Procycle check valve? The vent probably sticks about 1.5" above the IMS cap. Is there only one Acerbis cap with integrated vent ... their web site seems down and some retailers show caps that look different than your picture. Also some forums mention the threads are close but not exact, etc.

Thanks - dman
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:02 PM   #73584
appalachian
Ride fat boy ride
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: southeast T.N.
Oddometer: 247
rear suspenion advice please

plan on upgrade'n the factory rear suspension with my tax return(plan on do'n front forks later on) & need some input, been to ProCyles site & had a look around but really dont know which way to go, most of my ride;n style is laid back but wont hesitate to play or tackle obsticles, dig me some camp'n/fish'n rides but with a body weight of 300 packing lite is a must, besides I dont like to carry a lot of clutter.

Any advice/input is greatly appreciated with which ever manufacture but only want hands on experience with what ever you offer,
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:26 PM   #73585
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,694
I bought the Race Tech rear shock shaft assembly with spring. I went to the Race Tech site and used their product/spring rate search. You can put in your weight and riding style. I had a suspension shop install my stuff (did the front at the same time, and a couple mechanical things). After getting the bike back and measuring sag it looks to be damned near spot on for aggressive riding, which is what I was trying to set it up for. It also offers rebound adjustment, so it's not just valved for my riding weight.

I would buy the exact same thing again tomorrow if I needed suspension for my DR. If you look in the vendors section Race Tech is offering an AdvRider discount
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:58 PM   #73586
MeterPig
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, Colorado...
Oddometer: 17,097
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I accidentally shifted without pulling the clutch in and was wondering if that has done any damage to the engine.

The 1st time was a down shift when I was going about 30-40mph, and the 2nd time was when I shifted into 1st from neutral at a stand still.

I have never done this before - I din't even know that it was possible, but I know it is bad for my bike.

Thanks
When I am riding trails, rarely do I clutch. On the road I do just out if habit and am trying to get out of it. The transmission is always in synch to a degree. Downshifting is more tricky.

An r1 is better at clutch less than the dr, but can still be done.


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Old 02-09-2013, 04:08 PM   #73587
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post


Ahh, keep doing what you are doing...I've never gotten 5000 miles out of a rear tire on ANY motorcycle I have owned. My DR is usually due around 3500-4000 depending on the tire.


I'm sure someone will come along saying they get 10K... they must count miles hauled on the trailer or something.
I run a Kenda TrakMaster II in the rear and it's shot at 2500 miles.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:09 PM   #73588
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Everybody:

Somebody's made a Poll on KLR650 vs DR650, and we're currently losing!!! Please go vote. :)

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37395

Rob
not any more, 2:1 DR650
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Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:19 PM   #73589
MeterPig
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, Colorado...
Oddometer: 17,097
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Is the motoman method really the preferred? I have a friend who is a mechanic that said a lot of problems can steam from running a brand new engine hard in the beginning of its life. Then again, he might just be saying it for the business. Does anybody have an engine with a ton of miles\Kms on it that has used the Motoman method? My main concern is oil leaking past the rings.
I think lawyers wrote owners manuals not engineers when it comes to break in. Tuner shops break in on dyno.


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Old 02-09-2013, 04:52 PM   #73590
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
Oddometer: 453
Question Stickers

Are there ADV stickers still for sale and who has them?
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