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Old 02-19-2013, 12:16 PM   #73891
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
Its the re-oiling part that I have problems with. Do you saturate the filter with oil or just give it a light film?
No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:05 PM   #73892
disconnected
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oh... and by the way, I just ordered a new rear spring and front springs from Procycle. I also ordered a few other tidbits.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:13 PM   #73893
shaddix
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I don't understand how air can get under the filter? I never use any grease because that little plastic piece is pressing down with a lot of force onto the side of the air box
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:54 PM   #73894
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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took my DR out today just to shake out the cobwebs




it was 40 degrees and about to rain so I only went 32 miles. Playing the Nutmeg State Tag-o-rama




Felt good to get out and ride. First ride, ('cept for around the block occasionally to keep the carb fresh) since Thanksgiving.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:35 PM   #73895
dljocky
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Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:02 PM   #73896
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
Straps for the tank bag, taped up w/ duct tape. Kind of KLR ish. Plus the one over the seat.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers

Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 08:47 PM
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:34 PM   #73897
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.
I use mineral turpentine, or turps, on Uni Filter's recommendation for cleaning, and no soap or water. Just clean with 'turps' and allow to air dry. There will be some residual oil left in the filter, so you don't have to add as much to reoil.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:53 PM   #73898
rpet
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Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:03 PM   #73899
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?
Thanks for the nice words DL jockey.

Seat Concepts Tall.

Yes, it's the very first one that they built. I pestered the hell outta them to get it in time for my Skyline Drive, Blue Ridge Parkway ride last Sept. He gave me a wicked deal for making him get around to it. Love the thing.

Seat makes the bike look mean. The old blue/yellow was ugly. So were the yellow fork boots. It looks a lot better from far away.

There is still the purple frame and the knee marks where the paint is rubbed off the tank. Same with the boot wear on the frame.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:00 PM   #73900
Chill
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
It's a cow.

Chill screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 11:16 PM
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:10 PM   #73901
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 305
I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #73902
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #73903
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
Aren't they called "Cheesehead"? Seems to be what they're made of, anyway. Just checked - they are not. "A cheese head screw is one with a cylindrical head."

Anyone tried this alternator from RMStator? At $160, it seems like a good deal.

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Old 02-20-2013, 08:29 AM   #73904
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
JIS screwdrivers - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc...-screwdrivers/
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JI.../dp/B005NIY3PM

the special tool for most is using a hand-hammer impact tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
i've used a dremel tool in the past with a thin cutoff wheel and made a slot for a flathead screwdriver to work.

later found out the trick, if you only have Philips screwdrivers, is to use the next size smaller one (so it gets the tip down in deeper in the JIS screw) and tap it from the top with a hammer. this helps drive the tool head deeper into the screw and also shocks the screw some to loosen it. if the screw is somewhat buggered up, from previous attempts, tapping the screwdriver in harder can work. often the steel screw, alum. cap & brake res. main body somewhat fuse together if the fluid has never been serviced.

here is a way to modify Philips bits/screwdrivers to fit better in JIS:
http://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tool...rewdriver-tips

when dealing with the JIS screws on the floatbowl, the same technique can be used but often those hand-hammered tools is key. that is 1 essential tool that every home mechanic should have! once you have those screws out replace with allen bolts from PC, Jesse or the hardware store.
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eakins screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 08:59 AM
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:44 AM   #73905
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
wow i didnt realise there were metric and imperial screwdrivers. the jis is pretty standard in australia. you can buy them in sizes 1, 2 and 3 and i carry one of each as those small removable bits that go into T handles. having the right size screwdriver for the screw will make all the difference in the world.
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