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Old 02-18-2013, 10:29 PM   #73891
Kommando
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Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
air filter cleaner is even more difficult to find in Asia than air filter oil. what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
Grease-cutting dishwashing liquid works for me. I use DAWN.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:02 PM   #73892
Kommando
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Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Do I want to clean up my backside?

As it would turn out, I'm going to be doing some work on the backside of Shesaid's bike, several parts will need replaced. She has decided she wants the factory look, which is fine, but it offers the opportunity for me to take the factory parts from my bike, and put them on her's, while replacing mine with the backside cleanup kit from Procycle:
(NOTE: pic is a link, but you'll have to scroll down a bit for the kit info)
I have been thinking about this mod for a while, but hadn't made up my mind. Now, due to some recent events (Faceplant ), I could actually make this come out as a "free" upgrade, as the kit costs less than all new Suzuki parts.

Should I do it?

MV
I did it. If you go ahead with it, I'd recommend center-punching and then drilling a 3rd hole for a bolt in the license tag, down at the bottom tip. My tag started tearing with just the 2 upper bolts.

I currently use just the flushmount tail/brake light from the Procycle kit, with an LED 1157 bulb that flashes 3x then goes solid. I also use the stock black lower fender piece, the stock license illuminator with a 194 LED bulb from www.superbrightLEDs.com, and a Procycle license-mount stashbox bolted to where the stock tag bracket and lower rub-nubby used to be. The black lower fender piece protects better from mud flinging up on my back. Mine is trimmed up a little though. It only protrudes beneath the tag by about .5". I also have some BRIGHT red 8" LED strips on either side of my fender.

I like the look and functionality of my current setup. My tail/brake light looks nice and neat, and it isn't likely to bust apart like the stocker did. I have a locking compartment for registration and my pressure gauge. I have side and rear red reflectors. My back doesn't get slathered in mud. My tail is seen better and uses less wattage than stock. My tag is fastened at all 4 corners.

I'd get just the light and a stashbox. Put a 3x flash LED 1157 bulb in the light. Put an LED 194 bulb in the tag-illumination housing. Add red LED strips on either side of the fender, either upper or lower piece.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:29 PM   #73893
Kommando
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Originally Posted by rdcamp View Post
Ok, I would imagine I'd be riding more on the road then off... Then again, that can change.

Its my first foray into enduros and offroading.


Regardless, I don't imagine this will happen within a year. But luckily there are a number of Suzuki and Kawi dealers near me so I will have ample opportunity to look!
The DR is pretty darn versatile and simpler. It's isn't known for being buzzy, burning oil, or overheating.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:40 AM   #73894
thump!
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Originally Posted by trumposorousrex View Post
Thanks, they seem hard to come by I've been looking. Anyone want to get rid of one? Would the rm wheel need machine work or just bearings?
I have both a DR350 and DR650 rear wheel set up for the 650. I have a more aggressive tire mounted on the 18" wheel and I run either depending on the ride.

As noted elsewhere in the thread, the DR350S/SE (street legal version) wheel will work, the DR350 off-road model does not have a cush hub and _might_ work with the right spacers but I think the S model wheel is a better choice for the 650. It just drops right in using your existing sprocket carrier.

The bearings are the same in the two. The brake rotor is not. You'll need a DR650 rotor for the DR350 wheel. Also, the 18" 350 rim is more narrow and I'm running a 120/90 on mine.

Jim Randall

thump! screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 05:58 AM
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:44 AM   #73895
Sierra Thumper
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Grease-cutting dishwashing liquid works for me. I use DAWN.
Thats what I use on my foam uni.....works great for me as well
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:49 AM   #73896
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcamp View Post
Ok, I would imagine I'd be riding more on the road then off... Then again, that can change.
I too have owned both. I really like my DR and it fits my needs better (it's more off-pavement oriented) but I think the KLR is a better choice as a street bike. The 2007 and newer KLRs have a pretty nice faring, are smoother and have better suspension then the earlier models.

thump! screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 06:01 AM
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:52 AM   #73897
Mercenary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
In reality cleaning the UNI is not a big deal. Just spray some cleaner on it, rinse it with water (from the inside out), repeat once if necessary, let it dry, and re-oil.

Regards,

Derek
Its the re-oiling part that I have problems with. Do you saturate the filter with oil or just give it a light film?
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:03 AM   #73898
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I run either depending on the ride and have a more aggressive tire mounted on my 18" wheel.

The DR350S/SE wheel will work, the DR350 off road model does not have a cush hub and _might_ work but I think the S model wheel is a better choice for the 650.

The bearings are the same. The brake rotor is not. You'll need a DR650 rotor for the DR350 wheel. Also, the 18" 350 wheel is more narrow and I'm running a 120/90 on mine.

Jim Randall
^^what he said^^

I have both also. The 650 has a 2.50 rim and the 350 has a 2.15. (width) and the 350 has a rimlock if memory serves me. I'll have to go out in the garage and look. I put a rimlock on the 650 wheel as well.

I run knobbies most of the time, but I have a Bridgestone Trailwing that came off a new DRZ 400 on the 18" right now, from a trip I took in Sept.

I do recall having fittment issues with the 650 rotor on the 350 hub but can;t remember what I did. The bolts aren't the same and I ended up doing something different. Like flipping the rotor over or something. really can't remeber, but it was solveable maybe someone can remember what they did.

I was lucky to get my 350 wheel with an axle, chain adjusters, sprocket hub and cushions and a new 41 tooth sprocket for $75.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:17 AM   #73899
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
air filter cleaner is even more difficult to find in Asia than air filter oil. what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
Simple Green is what I used to clean my K&N. It worked better than the actual cleaner they sell. As for oiling it, I went with a fairly light spray.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:22 AM   #73900
trumposorousrex
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Detroit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
^^what he said^^

I have both also. The 650 has a 2.50 rim and the 350 has a 2.15. (width) and the 350 has a rimlock if memory serves me. I'll have to go out in the garage and look. I put a rimlock on the 650 wheel as well.

I run knobbies most of the time, but I have a Bridgestone Trailwing that came off a new DRZ 400 on the 18" right now, from a trip I took in Sept.

I do recall having fittment issues with the 650 rotor on the 350 hub but can;t remember what I did. The bolts aren't the same and I ended up doing something different. Like flipping the rotor over or something. really can't remeber, but it was solveable maybe someone can remember what they did.

I was lucky to get my 350 wheel with an axle, chain adjusters, sprocket hub and cushions and a new 41 tooth sprocket for $75.
Thanks Guys. I will keep searching for the dr350 wheel. I was hoping to pick up a donor RM bike and use the front end and both wheels. I have found more than a few complete bikes that need top ends for under $500. Anyway thanks for the help.

Matt
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:54 AM   #73901
jessepitt
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Let me help confuse things

Quote:
Originally Posted by trumposorousrex View Post
Thanks Guys. I will keep searching for the dr350 wheel. I was hoping to pick up a donor RM bike and use the front end and both wheels. I have found more than a few complete bikes that need top ends for under $500. Anyway thanks for the help.

Matt

This is the same thought I had. I have a DR350 and am useing an RMX swingarm with the stock DR350 (dirt model) wheel. The spacers are just cut down a hair as the RMX swinger is narrower. I think that if the stock DR350 rim can be made to work with the RMX arm then the RMX wheel should be able to work on the DR650. Also, I think that if you are using the DR350 wheel as your dirt wheel and always run a knobby on it the cush drive wont be needed, the knobs will buffer the trans on road. My DR350 is a plated dirt model with no cush and it seems fine on the street but it doesn't spend much time there. It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:34 AM   #73902
trumposorousrex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
This is the same thought I had. I have a DR350 and am useing an RMX swingarm with the stock DR350 (dirt model) wheel. The spacers are just cut down a hair as the RMX swinger is narrower. I think that if the stock DR350 rim can be made to work with the RMX arm then the RMX wheel should be able to work on the DR650. Also, I think that if you are using the DR350 wheel as your dirt wheel and always run a knobby on it the cush drive wont be needed, the knobs will buffer the trans on road. My DR350 is a plated dirt model with no cush and it seems fine on the street but it doesn't spend much time there. It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.
Thats fine if it just needs spacers. I have a lathe to make spacers. I don't care about the cush hub like you said it will only be for my dirt/ ice tires. I might just get a complete bike for the front end and see If I can make the rear wheel work too.

Thanks
Matt
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:46 AM   #73903
Tex76
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Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:58 AM   #73904
VooDooDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
...what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
I use Diesel fuel to clean my air filter. The oil/dirt in the filter dissolves immediately. I keep a half gallon bottle of Diesel in my garage for cleaning the air filter and deep cleaning the drive chain. When I am done with the dirty Diesel, I dump it in the same 5 gallon jug I use to store used motor oil. And then I dispose of the whole mess by pouring it down the kitchen drain.

(just kidding) Every 3-4 months I take the 5 gallon jug to my nearest service station to be recycled.

Once the filter is cleaned really well with Diesel (literally takes 30 seconds), then I give it a quick wash with a solution of dish washing liquid and H20. Then I let it dry overnight, and re-oil and re-install. And no, the Diesel does not harm the filter media.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:34 AM   #73905
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.
Might be time for a new battery. A tender will give it a bit more juice when you go to start it, but since it's just a trickle charger and doesn't have a jump-start mode, it'll only do so much.

BTW, I do NOT recommend the fancy new lithium-ion jobs. I have one on my FZ1 and it won't start in super cold weather without using a tender just to keep the damn thing warm.

Rob
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