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Old 02-21-2013, 11:05 AM   #73951
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Sounds like Star Tron is working well for you. Good to know it works beyond just dealing with ethanol. Yes ethanol sucks for everyone in the US for the most part.

Yes I'm happy with Lucas because of the lubrication properties it has as it's a fortified oil product with no distillates. It's cost effective and all the motors I use it in run better with it in. I'm skeptical of snake oils from most all mfg., but my experience with it in my old CB750 proved to me it does work and it seems most all agree with me: http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10013-Fu.../dp/B000FW7V50

I figured there would always be a handful of guys that think i'm full of it and it's a bogus, but whatever. They can keep their bikes how they want.

I've experienced this before when I jumped on Denso Iridium plugs when the technology 1st came out. I read what the few racers who used it had to say and read the technology behind the product and gave it 1st shot on my XR400 (a notorious hard starter). Most everyone said it was another bogus plug design. Anyway my bike started easier and ran cleaner. These days Iridium is well accepted and respected for how they work. blah blah blah
I've read about the Lucas Treatment, either here or elsewhere on ADVRider and I'm willing to give it a whirl. Trouble is, I bought 4 bottles of StarTron a while ago and haven't used it up yet. I get it at WalMart in the boating Dept and it's about a $1 cheaper there than anywhere else around here. I tried SeaFoam also and don't really remember it being any better/worse that StarTron. I fully believe that with ethanol in the fuels we get here in CT that something has to be added to anything that sits for any length of time. (ask the outboard motor guys)

I was looking at a picture thread on ADV and somewhere in VT, there was a picture of a bike in front of a gas station and the sign said "Ethanol-Free Gas". I immediately started checking how far it was from my house. Too far for just a trip, but I was ready if it was closer. There is a website somewhere that lists all the station that sell gas w/o ethanol.

XR400's came with a resistor built onto the sparkplug cap that made them hard to start. Even after you took it off and put on a different cap, they weren't easy to start, just easier.


I'll try Lucas soon.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:09 AM   #73952
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Thanks Eakins. Didn't notice the acid thing. I've gotten used to the AGM with my ATVs. Guess I need to do some more studying. Current battery may be the OEM on a 2006 and it is pretty wonky as I need to keep it on a battery tender for it to crank so I have no idea how well a fresh 120 works.
Yuasa also make that battery in AGM I think but it's lithium battery priced.
A new Deka AGM (made in the USA) cranks very hard and I find they last me atleast 4 solid years of service with no maintenance. It has never let me down (I use Iridium plugs and my carb is properly tuned so I need to crank very little on my DR to get it to start).

For less than $60 shipped I just buy another one every 4 years and call it a day. I do like the Earth X (A Colorado company and made in the US) battery technology and specs but until they get to a good chunk less than $100, i'll stick with that Deka AGM battery. I have no illusions, my DR is a heavier bike (with all the mods added) and a few lbs saving of a lithium will lighten nothing but my wallet nor do I want to be the cool guy who spends alot of $ to have the latest and the greatest farkle
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:16 AM   #73953
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resistor came out of the XR on day 1
http://www.kamware.com/vtr1000f/resistor1.htm

even after properly tuned carb and adjusted valves and doing the proper starting technique it's still tricky at times. those Iridiums help that a bit for sure. sold the bike because I was over kicking it. decided right then and there to always own a bike with an electric starter.

would love to hear you feedback on that Lucas oil. thnx Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I've read about the Lucas Treatment, either here or elsewhere on ADVRider and I'm willing to give it a whirl. Trouble is, I bought 4 bottles of StarTron a while ago and haven't used it up yet. I get it at WalMart in the boating Dept and it's about a $1 cheaper there than anywhere else around here. I tried SeaFoam also and don't really remember it being any better/worse that StarTron. I fully believe that with ethanol in the fuels we get here in CT that something has to be added to anything that sits for any length of time. (ask the outboard motor guys)

I was looking at a picture thread on ADV and somewhere in VT, there was a picture of a bike in front of a gas station and the sign said "Ethanol-Free Gas". I immediately started checking how far it was from my house. Too far for just a trip, but I was ready if it was closer. There is a website somewhere that lists all the station that sell gas w/o ethanol.

XR400's came with a resistor built onto the sparkplug cap that made them hard to start. Even after you took it off and put on a different cap, they weren't easy to start, just easier.


I'll try Lucas soon.
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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eakins screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 11:21 AM
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:16 AM   #73954
gofast1320
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bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Back to handlebars (for the 1000th time?).

I'm 5'10", and while I really want to be the gnarly adventure rider of my dreams, the truth is that I am commuting my ass off on the roads, usually sitting down, on my DR650SE.

So while I've read that pros and real off-roaders want less sweep ... one of the most ergonomically comfortable bikes I've test ridden lately was a modern KLR650... so I take it that for my arms and seating position, I need more of a sweep back than the DR650 comes with stock. Possibly more height too... all of which should be able to be accomplished by bars without risers I'd think.

I'm thinking of CR Highs like so many have posted, but every now and then read about bars that might have a bit more rise and about the same sweep.

Would rather not pay a lot... and am guessing that Fly Racing's bars in Gold (just found them, they seem cheap enough) would look good on my blue and white 2002. ... but I keep reading about Renthal's 'Desert Bend' (may not be made any longer) KX High bends (less sweep... so they're out I guess) and others.

Suggestions?
Mambo Dave- I'm going through the same thing . Wanting to buy some HDB hand guards for my 2006 but need to settle on bars first. Back a few pages in this thread I think (may have been DR650 forum/site) someone posted different bars that matched OEM DR650 measurements and then others. You might check that out.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:32 AM   #73955
Icecold Dan
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Hey all,

I have a major issue with my DR. Yesterday as I was down shifting to stop at a light, there was a clunking noise going from 2nd to 1st. When the light turned, the bike wouldn't move. I got it into neutral and pushed it to to the nearest sidewalk. I thought at first that I had thrown the chain, but when I opened the front sprocket cover, I found that the chain was still in place. Uh oh...this isn't good. I ended up calling for a ride and when I got home I started to disassemble things starting at the gear shift mechinasim. Everything there looked good so I moved over to pulling off the right side cover where the clutch is. Everything looked good with the clutch plates but I haven't actually checked tolerances yet. I had to stop when I got to the the large nut on the clutch hub. I believe it is 26mm but wasn't able to confirm as I don't have a socket that big and I couldn't get my wrench in there to test for size.

I'm starting to get nervious that the problem may be in the transmission itself but am not really sure how to troubleshoot any further. I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I already think I'm in a bit over my head.

It's an 09 with 15k miles.

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:05 PM   #73956
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Anyone?
The main issue is ... WILL that battery fit in the stock battery compartment?
If so ... then no worries. I believe the Yuasa you list has a higher Amp Hour rating than the stock DR650 battery. Yes? This is a good thing. If it fits in there ... go for it.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:15 PM   #73957
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
If you want your bike to be comfortable and upright like the KLR (I owned one too) then a Protaper SE ATV Mid bar is what you want. The oem KLR bar has almost the same dimensions at the ATV mid bar.

I've been using a ATV mids for several years now on my DR. Very comfortable for long rides and standing (I also use Procycle lowered pegs and they were the final piece to get that KLR-like comfortable ergos. standing is even better with them as you are lower on the bike with less back bending).

I had to re-route the clutch cable to gain some length and rotate the throttle so the cables come out from the bottom to make it all work. I also moved in my grips and throttle assy in from the edge of the bar to better match my preferred grip width. I did this vrs cutting the bars down because of the handguard fit. I use Maier atv alum. guards for plenty of lever clearance and Maier Off-road plastics on the alum. as the ATV ones were too big for me.

I've used cr hi on my xr in the past and that is a comfortable off-road bar. I added risers for standing. If i was using my DR as a dirtbike I would use that setup again but I wanted a more comfortable KLR feel as I do long on & off-road western tours on my DR.
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.

I just cross-referenced the bars, and the Fly Racing (inexpensive... and hopefully OK for the job?) ATV bend from http://flyracing.s3.amazonaws.com/si...ar%20chart.pdf seems to most closely match your ProTaper (http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se) bars.

ProTaper ATV MID:
813 width,
150 height,
93 mid-rise,
237 bottom/base width,
76-degree sweep,
206 grip

vs.

Fly ATV : 730 width, 150 height, 116 mid-rise, ? base, 71 degree sweep, ? grip

... but perhaps not close enough? Like you, I wouldn't mind narrower bars, but like you I could move my grips in a bit to make the bars narrower...

Can I see a close-up picture of the ends of your bars - did you use a spacer of some sort against the grip, or how do you keep your left grip from sliding to the end of the bar?
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:18 PM   #73958
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Mambo Dave- I'm going through the same thing . Wanting to buy some HDB hand guards for my 2006 but need to settle on bars first. Back a few pages in this thread I think (may have been DR650 forum/site) someone posted different bars that matched OEM DR650 measurements and then others. You might check that out.
Looks like I missed that.

Doubt I'll find it in all these pages, lol. I thought I was staying pretty well up on most recent pages for this thread, too.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:31 PM   #73959
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.
Lots of elements affect ergonomics on a bike. Bar rise and sweep are certainly important elements ... but seat height? peg height? Lever position? reach to bars? is bar rotated forward or back?... and your posture? all have an affect. Even then ... everyone perceives all this a bit differently. Quite a subjective area.

One nice thing about a riser like the ROX system ($$$) is it allows fore and aft adjustment and of course you can rotate the bars forward and back as well. This allows a wide variety of riding positions.

Changing peg height is another element ... and building up or lowering seat is another option that can affect ergonomics.

Some bikes feel great sitting on them in the showroom. But the real test is getting out on the highway for some long rides, and going through some nice twisties to see if the bike is balanced and neutral handling. Where ... and HOW you sit on the bike can affect handling and feedback.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:39 PM   #73960
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Looks like I missed that.

Doubt I'll find it in all these pages, lol.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Ha...r-Measurements
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:42 PM   #73961
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Here you go:

Width: 32.04"
Height: 3.11"
Pull Back: 2.32"

Renthal's RM Bend is an exact match. I believe it was $60 when I bought it from Rocky Mtn. ATV (part #: 1059960086 - silver). I also have 1" risers and am using stock cables.
Here is a reply I got from Bronco when I asked the stock dimensions question.

I have Renthals on my bike and was wondering how different they were from stock.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:44 PM   #73962
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Lots of elements affect ergonomics on a bike. Bar rise and sweep are certainly important elements ... but seat height? peg height? Lever position? reach to bars? is bar rotated forward or back?... and your posture? all have an affect. Even then ... everyone perceives all this a bit differently. Quite a subjective area.

One nice thing about a riser like the ROX system ($$$) is it allows fore and aft adjustment and of course you can rotate the bars forward and back as well. This allows a wide variety of riding positions.

Changing peg height is another element ... and building up or lowering seat is another option that can affect ergonomics.

Some bikes feel great sitting on them in the showroom. But the real test is getting out on the highway for some long rides, and going through some nice twisties to see if the bike is balanced and neutral handling. Where ... and HOW you sit on the bike can affect handling and feedback.
While subjective, this still goes into areas of muddiness that is the same reply each time.

2008-to-present KLR-650-like fit. I've ridden a stock one, and came away impressed. Anything closer to it will be fine. It doesn't need to get any muddier than eakins' answer unless someone was asking open-ended comfort questions.

At least he gave me a route to take, I can alter it from there.

While I understand the added adjustment of those risers, bars of the correct height seem lighter and the simple option. It's not as if the DR650 is too big or small of a bike for most people, so correcting it all with sweep, bar rotation, and such doesn't seem to be a path I'd even need to consider.
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that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
their motorcycles
." --
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #73963
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
2008-to-present KLR-650-like fit. I've ridden a stock one, and came away impressed. Anything closer to it will be fine.
While I understand the added adjustment of those risers, bars of the correct height seem lighter and the simple option. It's not as if the DR650 is too big or small of a bike for most people, so correcting it all with sweep, bar rotation, and such doesn't seem to be a path I'd even need to consider.
Play with this tool

http://cycle-ergo.com/

you can compare bikes. Get the KLR and then see what you have to do to the DR to make the position similar.

To change knee angle you must use seat height, but in reality, you could lower the pegs.

once you have the two bikes selected, use the mouse-wheel to morph between the 2.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #73964
eakins
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I hear ya.

When i had my KLR, my buddy bought a DR and I thought wow everything is a better build quality on the DR, easier valves to adjust, simpler oil cooling, dual plugs, better brakes & suspension and is lighter for the dirt roads.

I sold my KLR and bought a DR, but sorely missed those comfortable ergos of the KLR, big tank, screen and rear rack. I then proceeded to get all that back with my DR. You have to be an ex-klr owner to understand.

the left grip is properly glued in place like you would do with any grip.
it does not move. if you want that klr feel then i'd stick with the PT bar.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...andlebars.aspx
I'm like PT as they've proven strong, when i've dumped bikes. Not a far of saving a few $ on bars, just to have them bend, as it's alot of work to swap out bars. Rather just pay more for PT and not have them bend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.

I just cross-referenced the bars, and the Fly Racing (inexpensive... and hopefully OK for the job?) ATV bend from http://flyracing.s3.amazonaws.com/si...ar%20chart.pdf seems to most closely match your ProTaper (http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se) bars.

ProTaper ATV MID:
813 width,
150 height,
93 mid-rise,
237 bottom/base width,
76-degree sweep,
206 grip

vs.

Fly ATV : 730 width, 150 height, 116 mid-rise, ? base, 71 degree sweep, ? grip

... but perhaps not close enough? Like you, I wouldn't mind narrower bars, but like you I could move my grips in a bit to make the bars narrower...

Can I see a close-up picture of the ends of your bars - did you use a spacer of some sort against the grip, or how do you keep your left grip from sliding to the end of the bar?
__________________
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:34 PM   #73965
Escaped
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So did you actually take the clutch plates out already? No need to remove the big nut to determine if the clutch is toast.

Did you previously do the NSU screw fix? Are both NSU screws still present?

I would drain the oil and see if any surprises drain out with the oil.

Good luck,

Ray
2006 DR650 40,000+ miles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Icecold Dan View Post
Hey all,

I have a major issue with my DR. Yesterday as I was down shifting to stop at a light, there was a clunking noise going from 2nd to 1st. When the light turned, the bike wouldn't move. I got it into neutral and pushed it to to the nearest sidewalk. I thought at first that I had thrown the chain, but when I opened the front sprocket cover, I found that the chain was still in place. Uh oh...this isn't good. I ended up calling for a ride and when I got home I started to disassemble things starting at the gear shift mechinasim. Everything there looked good so I moved over to pulling off the right side cover where the clutch is. Everything looked good with the clutch plates but I haven't actually checked tolerances yet. I had to stop when I got to the the large nut on the clutch hub. I believe it is 26mm but wasn't able to confirm as I don't have a socket that big and I couldn't get my wrench in there to test for size.

I'm starting to get nervious that the problem may be in the transmission itself but am not really sure how to troubleshoot any further. I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I already think I'm in a bit over my head.

It's an 09 with 15k miles.

Thanks,

Dan
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