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Old 02-21-2013, 11:05 AM   #73981
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Anyone?
The main issue is ... WILL that battery fit in the stock battery compartment?
If so ... then no worries. I believe the Yuasa you list has a higher Amp Hour rating than the stock DR650 battery. Yes? This is a good thing. If it fits in there ... go for it.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:15 AM   #73982
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
If you want your bike to be comfortable and upright like the KLR (I owned one too) then a Protaper SE ATV Mid bar is what you want. The oem KLR bar has almost the same dimensions at the ATV mid bar.

I've been using a ATV mids for several years now on my DR. Very comfortable for long rides and standing (I also use Procycle lowered pegs and they were the final piece to get that KLR-like comfortable ergos. standing is even better with them as you are lower on the bike with less back bending).

I had to re-route the clutch cable to gain some length and rotate the throttle so the cables come out from the bottom to make it all work. I also moved in my grips and throttle assy in from the edge of the bar to better match my preferred grip width. I did this vrs cutting the bars down because of the handguard fit. I use Maier atv alum. guards for plenty of lever clearance and Maier Off-road plastics on the alum. as the ATV ones were too big for me.

I've used cr hi on my xr in the past and that is a comfortable off-road bar. I added risers for standing. If i was using my DR as a dirtbike I would use that setup again but I wanted a more comfortable KLR feel as I do long on & off-road western tours on my DR.
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.

I just cross-referenced the bars, and the Fly Racing (inexpensive... and hopefully OK for the job?) ATV bend from http://flyracing.s3.amazonaws.com/si...ar%20chart.pdf seems to most closely match your ProTaper (http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se) bars.

ProTaper ATV MID:
813 width,
150 height,
93 mid-rise,
237 bottom/base width,
76-degree sweep,
206 grip

vs.

Fly ATV : 730 width, 150 height, 116 mid-rise, ? base, 71 degree sweep, ? grip

... but perhaps not close enough? Like you, I wouldn't mind narrower bars, but like you I could move my grips in a bit to make the bars narrower...

Can I see a close-up picture of the ends of your bars - did you use a spacer of some sort against the grip, or how do you keep your left grip from sliding to the end of the bar?
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 11:39 AM
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:18 AM   #73983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Mambo Dave- I'm going through the same thing . Wanting to buy some HDB hand guards for my 2006 but need to settle on bars first. Back a few pages in this thread I think (may have been DR650 forum/site) someone posted different bars that matched OEM DR650 measurements and then others. You might check that out.
Looks like I missed that.

Doubt I'll find it in all these pages, lol. I thought I was staying pretty well up on most recent pages for this thread, too.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:31 AM   #73984
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.
Lots of elements affect ergonomics on a bike. Bar rise and sweep are certainly important elements ... but seat height? peg height? Lever position? reach to bars? is bar rotated forward or back?... and your posture? all have an affect. Even then ... everyone perceives all this a bit differently. Quite a subjective area.

One nice thing about a riser like the ROX system ($$$) is it allows fore and aft adjustment and of course you can rotate the bars forward and back as well. This allows a wide variety of riding positions.

Changing peg height is another element ... and building up or lowering seat is another option that can affect ergonomics.

Some bikes feel great sitting on them in the showroom. But the real test is getting out on the highway for some long rides, and going through some nice twisties to see if the bike is balanced and neutral handling. Where ... and HOW you sit on the bike can affect handling and feedback.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:39 AM   #73985
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Looks like I missed that.

Doubt I'll find it in all these pages, lol.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Ha...r-Measurements
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:42 AM   #73986
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Here you go:

Width: 32.04"
Height: 3.11"
Pull Back: 2.32"

Renthal's RM Bend is an exact match. I believe it was $60 when I bought it from Rocky Mtn. ATV (part #: 1059960086 - silver). I also have 1" risers and am using stock cables.
Here is a reply I got from Bronco when I asked the stock dimensions question.

I have Renthals on my bike and was wondering how different they were from stock.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:44 AM   #73987
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Lots of elements affect ergonomics on a bike. Bar rise and sweep are certainly important elements ... but seat height? peg height? Lever position? reach to bars? is bar rotated forward or back?... and your posture? all have an affect. Even then ... everyone perceives all this a bit differently. Quite a subjective area.

One nice thing about a riser like the ROX system ($$$) is it allows fore and aft adjustment and of course you can rotate the bars forward and back as well. This allows a wide variety of riding positions.

Changing peg height is another element ... and building up or lowering seat is another option that can affect ergonomics.

Some bikes feel great sitting on them in the showroom. But the real test is getting out on the highway for some long rides, and going through some nice twisties to see if the bike is balanced and neutral handling. Where ... and HOW you sit on the bike can affect handling and feedback.
While subjective, this still goes into areas of muddiness that is the same reply each time.

2008-to-present KLR-650-like fit. I've ridden a stock one, and came away impressed. Anything closer to it will be fine. It doesn't need to get any muddier than eakins' answer unless someone was asking open-ended comfort questions.

At least he gave me a route to take, I can alter it from there.

While I understand the added adjustment of those risers, bars of the correct height seem lighter and the simple option. It's not as if the DR650 is too big or small of a bike for most people, so correcting it all with sweep, bar rotation, and such doesn't seem to be a path I'd even need to consider.
__________________
"After reading through this thread I've come to the conclusion
that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
their motorcycles
." --
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 11:50 AM
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:48 AM   #73988
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
2008-to-present KLR-650-like fit. I've ridden a stock one, and came away impressed. Anything closer to it will be fine.
While I understand the added adjustment of those risers, bars of the correct height seem lighter and the simple option. It's not as if the DR650 is too big or small of a bike for most people, so correcting it all with sweep, bar rotation, and such doesn't seem to be a path I'd even need to consider.
Play with this tool

http://cycle-ergo.com/

you can compare bikes. Get the KLR and then see what you have to do to the DR to make the position similar.

To change knee angle you must use seat height, but in reality, you could lower the pegs.

once you have the two bikes selected, use the mouse-wheel to morph between the 2.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:29 PM   #73989
eakins
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I hear ya.

When i had my KLR, my buddy bought a DR and I thought wow everything is a better build quality on the DR, easier valves to adjust, simpler oil cooling, dual plugs, better brakes & suspension and is lighter for the dirt roads.

I sold my KLR and bought a DR, but sorely missed those comfortable ergos of the KLR, big tank, screen and rear rack. I then proceeded to get all that back with my DR. You have to be an ex-klr owner to understand.

the left grip is properly glued in place like you would do with any grip.
it does not move. if you want that klr feel then i'd stick with the PT bar.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...andlebars.aspx
I'm like PT as they've proven strong, when i've dumped bikes. Not a far of saving a few $ on bars, just to have them bend, as it's alot of work to swap out bars. Rather just pay more for PT and not have them bend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.

I just cross-referenced the bars, and the Fly Racing (inexpensive... and hopefully OK for the job?) ATV bend from http://flyracing.s3.amazonaws.com/si...ar%20chart.pdf seems to most closely match your ProTaper (http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se) bars.

ProTaper ATV MID:
813 width,
150 height,
93 mid-rise,
237 bottom/base width,
76-degree sweep,
206 grip

vs.

Fly ATV : 730 width, 150 height, 116 mid-rise, ? base, 71 degree sweep, ? grip

... but perhaps not close enough? Like you, I wouldn't mind narrower bars, but like you I could move my grips in a bit to make the bars narrower...

Can I see a close-up picture of the ends of your bars - did you use a spacer of some sort against the grip, or how do you keep your left grip from sliding to the end of the bar?
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:34 PM   #73990
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So did you actually take the clutch plates out already? No need to remove the big nut to determine if the clutch is toast.

Did you previously do the NSU screw fix? Are both NSU screws still present?

I would drain the oil and see if any surprises drain out with the oil.

Good luck,

Ray
2006 DR650 40,000+ miles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Icecold Dan View Post
Hey all,

I have a major issue with my DR. Yesterday as I was down shifting to stop at a light, there was a clunking noise going from 2nd to 1st. When the light turned, the bike wouldn't move. I got it into neutral and pushed it to to the nearest sidewalk. I thought at first that I had thrown the chain, but when I opened the front sprocket cover, I found that the chain was still in place. Uh oh...this isn't good. I ended up calling for a ride and when I got home I started to disassemble things starting at the gear shift mechinasim. Everything there looked good so I moved over to pulling off the right side cover where the clutch is. Everything looked good with the clutch plates but I haven't actually checked tolerances yet. I had to stop when I got to the the large nut on the clutch hub. I believe it is 26mm but wasn't able to confirm as I don't have a socket that big and I couldn't get my wrench in there to test for size.

I'm starting to get nervious that the problem may be in the transmission itself but am not really sure how to troubleshoot any further. I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I already think I'm in a bit over my head.

It's an 09 with 15k miles.

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:35 PM   #73991
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Play with this tool

http://cycle-ergo.com/

you can compare bikes. Get the KLR and then see what you have to do to the DR to make the position similar.

To change knee angle you must use seat height, but in reality, you could lower the pegs.

once you have the two bikes selected, use the mouse-wheel to morph between the 2.
That's what I used somewhat to determine what parts I needed to add.

I added the PT ATV mids day 1 to my DR as I know from experience that is a real comfortable upright bar. I wanted to match that from the KLR. The Pro Cycle lowering pegs came later when I realized I had more knee bend than I wanted plus I wanted to lean over less when standing. Adding a firmer upgrade seat helping a ton too from squishing down into stock Suzuki and bending my knees even more.
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:41 PM   #73992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Lots of elements affect ergonomics on a bike. Bar rise and sweep are certainly important elements ... but seat height? peg height? Lever position? reach to bars? is bar rotated forward or back?... and your posture? all have an affect. Even then ... everyone perceives all this a bit differently. Quite a subjective area.

One nice thing about a riser like the ROX system ($$$) is it allows fore and aft adjustment and of course you can rotate the bars forward and back as well. This allows a wide variety of riding positions.

Changing peg height is another element ... and building up or lowering seat is another option that can affect ergonomics.

Some bikes feel great sitting on them in the showroom. But the real test is getting out on the highway for some long rides, and going through some nice twisties to see if the bike is balanced and neutral handling. Where ... and HOW you sit on the bike can affect handling and feedback.
I'd say that 2" Rox and a CR Hi would also make a comfortable and adjustable bar package for most (although pricier than bars alone). I was responding to the angle he wanted KLR ergos and I have 1st hand knowledge of that and the proper bars to match an oem KLR bar
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:43 PM   #73993
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As a side note, I once dumped the bike on the right side hard and after I picked it and myself up, the bike would not shift or come out of gear. To fix it, I just took the clutch apart (just the plates) put it back together and it was good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Icecold Dan View Post
Hey all,

I have a major issue with my DR. Yesterday as I was down shifting to stop at a light, there was a clunking noise going from 2nd to 1st. When the light turned, the bike wouldn't move. I got it into neutral and pushed it to to the nearest sidewalk. I thought at first that I had thrown the chain, but when I opened the front sprocket cover, I found that the chain was still in place. Uh oh...this isn't good. I ended up calling for a ride and when I got home I started to disassemble things starting at the gear shift mechinasim. Everything there looked good so I moved over to pulling off the right side cover where the clutch is. Everything looked good with the clutch plates but I haven't actually checked tolerances yet. I had to stop when I got to the the large nut on the clutch hub. I believe it is 26mm but wasn't able to confirm as I don't have a socket that big and I couldn't get my wrench in there to test for size.

I'm starting to get nervious that the problem may be in the transmission itself but am not really sure how to troubleshoot any further. I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I already think I'm in a bit over my head.

It's an 09 with 15k miles.

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:54 PM   #73994
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LUCAS Headlamp switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Good one! I'll send that on to a couple friends.


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Old 02-21-2013, 01:10 PM   #73995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Lucas; what ever are you talking about??

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post


The FIX

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