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Old 02-25-2013, 02:59 AM   #74071
Load Clear
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Center of the Rez, AZ
Oddometer: 35
High Elevation

Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:41 AM   #74072
greer
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Shameless Plug

Just posted a tank and skid plate in the Flea Market:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865833

Sarah
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:12 AM   #74073
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude?
The high elevation will transform the 'too lean' factory jetting to 'just about right' jetting.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #74074
frecks
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan, USA
Oddometer: 245
So after suffering a catastrophic engine failure a couple years ago(that can be attributed to me not torquing things down to spec), I'm finally rebuilding my engine. My clutch pack appears to still be in good condition, but some of the aluminum shavings that were coursing through my engine seem to have gotten in the clutch pack. The clutch pack has also been sitting in a box in the garage for the past 2 years.

I'm wondering what the collective wisdom of this thread thinks is the best way to clean it and prep it for re-install.

As for lessons learned; Loctite and torque wrenches are significantly cheaper than crankcases, crankshafts, and clutch baskets.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:03 AM   #74075
maynard911
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Bisbee AZ
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The high elevation will transform the 'too lean' factory jetting to 'just about right' jetting.
*1 on what Jeff says.
I'm in southern AZ at about 5200 ft and found the stock jetting to be close with a completely stock bike. After removing the snorkel I did raise the needle with a thin shim and it was about perfect. You will want to pull the plug on the idle mixture screw and get it set properly as described many times here.
I think that you will find that what you are calling 'sand storms' are really dust storms, caused by that same clay that you were concerned with when wet. The clay is made up of very fine particles that being light are prone to going airborne, especially in the high winds of spring, but are also a major concern when riding in groups as the dust will hang in the air for a long time. Regular air filter maintenance is important, and don't even think about K&N, stick with the stock or aftermarket oiled foam filter.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:26 AM   #74076
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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anyone here having trouble finding the SeatConcepts website? I can't find it.

I get a weird redirect that doesn't have M/C seats.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:53 AM   #74077
wee-twin
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Location: Westchester County, N.Y.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
anyone here having trouble finding the SeatConcepts website? I can't find it.

I get a weird redirect that doesn't have M/C seats.
I just tried and same thing happened to me. Weird.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:12 PM   #74078
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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On another note, DirtBike Magazine has an article this month about making a DR650 into an adventure bike. (just finished reading it at the supermarket) That will make used examples disappear a bit quicker.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:28 PM   #74079
BlueLghtning
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Newnan, GA
Oddometer: 4,948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
anyone here having trouble finding the SeatConcepts website? I can't find it.

I get a weird redirect that doesn't have M/C seats.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wee-twin View Post
I just tried and same thing happened to me. Weird.
They have a note in the vendor section that their website is currently down. They haven't gone anywhere. - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=seat+concepts

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxbundy View Post
Hey guys our site is down until mid Monday morning.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
You guys can give us a call at 951-741-0722 or 951-756-1030 and we will be happy to help you guys over the phone.


Bundy
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:20 PM   #74080
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry94025 View Post
Planemanx15,

One last thing... Remember that the metal that used to be part of your piston skirt is now somewhere in the engine. I would check the crank and connecting rod bearings very carefully by rotating them by hand to sense any roughness. Remove the oil filter and cut it apart; hopefully you'll see evidence of the metal trapped there. Drain the oil and see if you see silvery bits of aluminum, then flush things out as best as you can. The oil cooler would also be a good candidate for a flush.

Regards,
Harry
PLUS ONE!!! ++++++++++
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #74081
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks
Stock jetting should be fine ... until you get up over about 10K ft.
For off road Desert riding I'd get some sort of bash plate ... and side case covers. Bark Busters of some sort too to protect hands, levers and Master cylinder.

If the motor gets muddy, don't worry but try to keep the oil cooler clear of mud ... but DO NOT bend delicate fins. Hose off SOON after ride. Don't wait for mud to turn to HARD POTTERY.

You'll need knobbies for Desert riding. Dunlop D606, Conti TKC80 are good to start, but LOTS of tire options. Knobbies make sand easier.
Have fun. TONS of amazing territory in and around Grand Canyon and up into Utah.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:37 PM   #74082
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
So after suffering a catastrophic engine failure a couple years ago(that can be attributed to me not torquing things down to spec), I'm finally rebuilding my engine. My clutch pack appears to still be in good condition, but some of the aluminum shavings that were coursing through my engine seem to have gotten in the clutch pack. The clutch pack has also been sitting in a box in the garage for the past 2 years.

I'm wondering what the collective wisdom of this thread thinks is the best way to clean it and prep it for re-install.

As for lessons learned; Loctite and torque wrenches are significantly cheaper than crankcases, crankshafts, and clutch baskets.
I would get some professional help on the rebuild. There are SO MANY places to make mistakes ... even for guys with experience.

CLUTCH
Clean plates with oil, wipe off very well. Soak plates in clean oil for 2 - 3 hours before install. DO NOT use synthetic oil in new engine.

I would be more worried about metal bits still inside the engine, oil lines, Oil pump, oil cooler/hoses. Flush it all out a couple times with cheap oil or oil and Kerosene mix before running. Do an Engine oil and filter change after 20 miles. (to be safe). Another at 200 miles. Best of luck ... but luck won't help really. Get a pro to help out.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:59 PM   #74083
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
They have a note in the vendor section that their website is currently down. They haven't gone anywhere. - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=seat+concepts
Thanks.
__________________
on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:15 PM   #74084
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
a little ot, but have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

thanks,

doug s.

ps - about your tag line - do you really think the guy who invented the 1st wheel and the 2nd wheel were different guys?

I have tried them in two motors because the customer wanted to try them. They both sucked and I ended up putting in a standard style ring. The biggest problem with them is they don't ever seem to "break in". The leak down numbers are awsome...the actual running is less then desirable. Was burning so much oil it was putting the plugs out. We even took the one motor back apart- re-honed to Total Seal's specs, ran the oil they reccommended and broke it in like they said. Still no luck. Their tech people said we must be doing something wrong.... Yeh right. We put in a set that cost 1/2 the price and picked up 15 HP and no oil burn issues. That was all the proof I needed to never run them.

Total Seal makes a standard gap ring set- I think they call it "classic ring pack". I have run those with no problems.

If anyone cares:
I can tell you from experience that rings start touching each other and causing damage at around .010" gap. In trying to get some HP on dirt track motors we kept narrowing the gap... bad stuff below .011" The other thing we found is ring gap doesn't make that much diffrence between .015" and .025" in HP (less then 1/2 HP) We now run .020-.024 top and .022-.025 2nd on 90% of our setups.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:36 PM   #74085
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I have tried them in two motors because the customer wanted to try them. They both sucked and I ended up putting in a standard style ring. The biggest problem with them is they don't ever seem to "break in". The leak down numbers are awsome...the actual running is less then desirable. Was burning so much oil it was putting the plugs out. We even took the one motor back apart- re-honed to Total Seal's specs, ran the oil they reccommended and broke it in like they said. Still no luck. Their tech people said we must be doing something wrong.... Yeh right. We put in a set that cost 1/2 the price and picked up 15 HP and no oil burn issues. That was all the proof I needed to never run them.

Total Seal makes a standard gap ring set- I think they call it "classic ring pack". I have run those with no problems.

If anyone cares:
I can tell you from experience that rings start touching each other and causing damage at around .010" gap. In trying to get some HP on dirt track motors we kept narrowing the gap... bad stuff below .011" The other thing we found is ring gap doesn't make that much diffrence between .015" and .025" in HP (less then 1/2 HP) We now run .020-.024 top and .022-.025 2nd on 90% of our setups.
Good info Mongle! Nice to hear from someone who has actually done the testing.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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