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Old 03-01-2013, 05:19 AM   #74176
Carl Childers
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Location: Northern New Mexico
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At 6'2" I've raised the bars 2" and find it a good all around riding position for me. I can stand on the pegs and ride long distances and feel comfortable doing it. I was going to lower the pegs but tried the bars first and didn't feel a need to drop them. I like the idea of keeping the pegs up and out of the way if I can.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:02 AM   #74177
gjcarving
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Location: Santa Fe, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gundy View Post
How are the DR ergonomics for taller riders? (6'3" here). How about for stand up riding offroad?
6'4'' here. Powermadd 2'' risers, Pro Taper CR High bars, and Procycle lowered footpegs. Feels much better both standing and sitting.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:30 AM   #74178
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
You mean "Chop yer pegs":

http://drriders.com/topic901.html


And another note on bar risers, I have the Rox 2"; went on without a hitch and work like a charm.

Sarah

Thank you Sarah, that was exactly what I had in mind.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:42 AM   #74179
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I like the idea of keeping the pegs up and out of the way if I can.
I have size 13 feet and long skinny toes that break to entertain each other. I want my feet up and out of the way. I get into trouble because my feet are much higher off the ground on my KTM, so I forget how low they really are on the DR sometimes. The DR rams things with authority when compared to my KTM.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:47 AM   #74180
jessepitt
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I have a really bad knee (probably have it replaced at some point) from a crash three some years ago so I have a hard time sitting with my legs bent tight, also it is hard for me to go from sitting to standing alot. It doesnt help that I also have long legs. All this adds up to lowered pegs for me. I am even more tempted now that I see others are cutting there pegs down as well. I would get the Procycle pegs but I am cheap.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:45 AM   #74181
buckrut1972
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6'3" here, chopped an inch off pegs (neighbor is a welder and loves free beer) Put 3" risers on it mainly to go up 2" and back toward me 1". Very nice to stand up. COMFY!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I have a really bad knee (probably have it replaced at some point) from a crash three some years ago so I have a hard time sitting with my legs bent tight, also it is hard for me to go from sitting to standing alot. It doesnt help that I also have long legs. All this adds up to lowered pegs for me. I am even more tempted now that I see others are cutting there pegs down as well. I would get the Procycle pegs but I am cheap.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:04 AM   #74182
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I would get the Procycle pegs but I am cheap.
Send them your resume. Maybe you'll get sponsored.

Be sure to post pics if you do your own footrests.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:15 AM   #74183
Gundy
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Sounding like long inseam and DR650 CAN be done, but is maybe not the best starting point....I guess thats why I chose the KLR last time around. Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:21 AM   #74184
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gundy View Post
Sounding like long inseam and DR650 CAN be done, but is maybe not the best starting point....I guess thats why I chose the KLR last time around. Thanks for the feedback!
My riding buddy is 6' 5" and he rides the hell outta his. His son is 6'8" and he uses it quite a bit too. Bone stock except they had heavier springs put on because they both tip the scales around 300lbs. Never heard a word out of them about being cramped. When you are that big, you are used to nothing being sized for you.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:01 PM   #74185
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I always remove the seal from bearings (unless I know i'm using quality SKF bearings) and check how much grease is in there. You can use a pick or a needle and pop it out. There is a recess it sits and pops back in easy too.

Not sure of the quality of Moose bearings? Are they repackage All Balls - ie Chinese bearings? Or better quality bearings? All Balls are known to be real light on grease at times. Don't pack them full however, just 1/2 way full.

I've been buying SKF from Napa or a bearing shop lately.
They cost more but last longer.

Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
-------------------------------------------
Two 6003 2RS
Two 6204 2RS
One 6205 2RS
went to the local Napa today to pick up some bearings and all they had was house brand Napa with made in China on the box, the guy had a deer in headlights look when I asked for the seals/ spacers for the bearings. I even gave him the #s above
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:53 PM   #74186
eakins
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my buddy is a tall DR rider. he uses:

tall seat
http://seatconcepts.com/products#!/~...58&id=14815642

dropped foot pegs
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#controls

taller handlebars
Pro Taper SE ATV Mid

works very well for him.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:56 PM   #74187
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
went to the local Napa today to pick up some bearings and all they had was house brand Napa with made in China on the box, the guy had a deer in headlights look when I asked for the seals/ spacers for the bearings. I even gave him the #s above
they can order skf bearings. i bought mine there. not all from US but none from China.
give him the seal measurements (those numbers are in mm)
sorry I don't have the front seal #s. i'm sure someone else does.
you could also mail order.

sorry those #s are suzuki oem part #s.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...284-23001.html - front wheel
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...283-26019.html -rear wheel
i'm looking for cush seal oem part? anyone have that???

you can also order cheaper seals by the size number (ID X OD X width)

if you are carefully you can clean and reuse those bearing seals.

the rear is looking this this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Wheel-B...978d4f&vxp=mtr
front
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-...12684e&vxp=mtr

these kits use Boss bearings??? http://www.bossbearing.com/
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sho...d.php?t=178970 - sounds like if you call in you can different quality bearing per your price desire.
no idea what spec that ebay kit has, but i'd guess Chinese for the price. i'd choose either American & Japanese bearings.

things are a bit wonky on their front bearing kit as they list 2 options yet the parts from 96-2012 are all the same???
http://www.bossbearing.com/DR650SE-s/5494.htm

------------------------------------------------------------------

here are all the updates notes I've gathered on the matter:

Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
2 - 17 x 35 x 10
-Front wheel seal:
2 - 23x35x7 (09284-23001 – Suzuki #)

-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side):
1 - 26x47x7 (09283-26019 – Suzuki #)

-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal:
1 - 35x52x7
-------------------------------------------
Two 6003 2RS/RD/RSJ (2RSJ is the best spec)
Two 6204 2RS/RD/RSJ
One 6205 2RS/RD/RSJ
---------------------------------------------
Go for sealed both sides European or Jap bearings if you don't mind paying more . . . I sure don't.
Any brands like SKF, FAG, NSK etc.
If you want a good Jap sealed bearing for the rear axle hub (x 2) get Honda ones :
part number 96150-6204010 ( generic 6204 bearing ) 20 x 47 x 14 mm size.

Cush drive bearing is a 6205 generic 25 x 52 x 15mm
Honda part number 96150-6205010

Front wheel size is 6003 generic 17 x 35 x 10mm
Honda part # 91065-KA3-832

Before you pay for the Honda ones check they are made in Japan and sealed both sides !
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eakins screwed with this post 03-01-2013 at 02:42 PM
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:00 PM   #74188
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
my buddy is a tall DR rider. he uses:

tall seat
http://seatconcepts.com/products#!/~...58&id=14815642

dropped foot pegs
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#controls

taller handlebars
Pro Taper SE ATV Mid

works very well for him.
Based on your input, I went with the Fly Racing ATV bars (same 150mm rise as the Pro Taper ATV Mid). Now I haven't ridden it since putting it together today... and I don't even know if it starts, lol, but here's the end-result. Thanks Eakins.





Edit: You guys aren't going to believe this, but since it wasn't sunny and warm, I didn't want to work outside for any longer than was necessary - so those are the OEM grips (under my rope-wrap) that were on the stock bars this morning.

Of course the throttle's grip didn't need removed to start the project... and while I loosened up all but the inner part of the left grip (by using a screwdriver under it), I ended up making a straight cut to open up that grip to take it off. While using it for sizing to mark the drill holes, I realized that it had a lot of grip on the knurled section of the Fly Racing handlebar... so I took the same rope wrap piece I had on it before, wound it tightly down and tied it... and now I'm re-using my left grip and rope again, lol. It's pretty stable. (scratch that, I just went out and tested it - it's rock solid, yet it has no glue under it, lol)

I'll wait until a warm day to change the grips out if I decide to do them.

I did re-route the throttle cables. As they sit now, they go between the handlebar base and the triple-tree (between the spacers/bar mounts), and then directly under the tank from there. Plenty of cable length, and my throttle-end is still on the top instead of underneath.
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 03-01-2013 at 02:43 PM Reason: re-used left grip / both grips
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:51 PM   #74189
adventurebound9517
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Oddometer: 289
Here is a way to lower your pegs even further that I discovered by accident. I had purchased the lowered pegs from Pro Cycle and had mounted them up. Recently I purchased a center stand and in the process of installing it I had to remove the foot peg from the bracket and the bike. Well when I reinstalled it I put the bracket on upside down, it will go either way. After I was finished I was standing at the back of the bike and noticed that the peg I removed was lower, so I sat on the bike to try it out and decided I liked it better so I removed the other one and changed it also, That being said you will loose some ground clearance, you will have to be the judge on weather that is a problem.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:18 PM   #74190
Sammalamma
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Location: Driftin'
Oddometer: 59
Headlights wiring

Quick noob question for all of you...

I'm adding some Vision-X soltice LED lights (photo 1) that I want to switch on and off with the Highway Dirt Bikes top clamp switches similar to the red and black switches in photo 2 below. I don't want to power these LEDs from the headlight wires because I want these to run completely independently from the headlight. So my question is... can I wire them directly to the battery (with the switch in series of the ground wire of course) or do they need to be drawing power from the stator somewhere rather than directly from the battery? Will the stator keep the battery charged during operation if these two lights are drawing power directly from the battery?

Thanks in advance guys.

Photo 1


Photo 2
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